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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 01, 2009 » Stock front pads vs sintered pads will it get rid of pulsing!! « Previous Next »

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Adoogie3
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had pulse problems from day one with this r and it was time to replace the rears already . So I also did the fronts with sbs pads sintered fronts and rears street pads . Will this fix my front end pulsing. I live in Ohio and can't wait to find out . This weather stinks.
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Gearhead571
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brake pulsations are usually due to a warped rotor.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While you are down for weather, you might want to clean up the rotors to take of the crap that was left from your last set of pads. I used a small wire brush last time with mixed results.

Any suggestions of a better technique out there?
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Adoogie3
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya that's what I'm thinking. Just get a 2 inch grinder and put a scotchbrite diegrinder pad on .and then ruff it up to get the organic crap off . so fresnobuell you think it's just pad material burnt on the rotor in between the drill holes that is causing the pulsing?
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Gearhead571
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Adoogie, If you have a dial indicator you should check the rotor for true. I'm not sure about the the big rotor on the R but I know it only takes .008" to cause this problem in "caged" applications. I have no idea what the specs are supposed to be since I have not bought the service manual yet.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think it is possible and i have seen posts about cleaning up the rotor helping pulsing sensations. If you think about it for a second, it would be good for your braking in general to get the roughed up, cleaner surface on the rotor. I am putting it on my list of things to do as mine need some attention once again.
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Bigblock
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

scotchbrite pads work great for this.
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Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Warped rotors, yeah they can be warped but not usually on the street unless you are really pushing it. For some reason even my tubers had a tendency to build up pad material versus warping a rotor. I can substantiate this by braking aggressively, from time to time, to scrub the rotors. After this they are back to a nice progressive feel.

Like most riders I tend drag the brakes to slow down, on the street, versus grabbing them and braking medium to hard. When they start to pulse grab 2 fingers and scrub'm down. The "bear-tex" route also works after the fact, if you have waited too long.

Time2Run

Neil S.
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Adoogie3
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for info
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Adoogie3
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can anyone photoshop translucent orange wheels on a 08 r with orange badges
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P_squared
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You mean like Bertman's in the 'Red, White or Black' thread? (Halfway down)
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Scolly68
Posted on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can tell you this from experience, my xb12 had horrible pulsation in the front brakes with stock pads. It also had the carbon buildup behind the holes. i switched to lyndall Gold pads and it took care of it. No more pulsing, brakes grabbed better, but the pad was wearing a little faster. Major improvement.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For sure go thru with the pad change. The stockers are okay but the aftermarket are much better. I have the EBC HH pads and really like em alot.
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1_mike
Posted on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've also seen "hot spots" on MANY Buells that are "pushed" a little. Street or race.
The aftermarket rotors are a little thicker I believe, maybe made of a better material, but the hot spotting and much if not all of the warping will be all but eliminated.
I talked at length to the guys at Glendale Harley/Buell about this. You can tell at a glance which of their race bikes has stock rotors vs aftermarket rotors.

My guess...your rotors aren't warped..you just have hot spots in them.

You can see this by looking closely for little, slightly dark spots with slightly lighter colored rings around the dark spots.

The repair for either is replacement.
OR...if you know if a friend has a Blanchard Grinder. Just be careful and don't grind them too thin.

Mike
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Adoogie3
Posted on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know this sounds funny .But I was dragging my nail across the rotor and when i came to the hott spots my nail dug in And gripped the blue spot. Probably pad material .Scotchbrite tonight!!
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Adoogie3
Posted on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also did any of you guys take the steels off the old pads and put them on the new ones?<<<<<Fronts
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P_squared
Posted on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You mean the little steel 'shims'?

Yes.
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