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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 01, 2009 » Felt power loss at WOT « Previous Next »

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Redscuell
Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When cruising at 100kph in 5th or 6th, a WOT to pass results in less forward thrust than when I back off significantly to, say, half throttle during the manouever, wherein the bike speeds up. This is a consistent thing, not a one-off.

How can I correct this? Fuel mapping, perhaps? In the carbie days it would've been jetting, or a spark retard at low vacuum.

Sorry, chaps, I'm not looking for guesses; I'm looking for info from someone who KNOWS.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's something I know....if you ride the bike likes it's supposed to ridden, kick it down to third where it wants to be at 62 mph for a passing maneuver.
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Ccryder
Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll have to try it myself and see if I get the same experience. Like Fresnobuell, at 100kph in 5th or 6th is (IMHO) too low of an rpm for WOT. Trying to make a map change for that scenario for be VERY difficult.

FWIW, I'm rarely in 5th or 6th unless I'm on the interstate running 70-80mph. My usual commute is 60 miles each way on 2 lane TN backroads. Even with the 55mph limit I rarely slow down ;+} for the corners, even the 15mph ones!

I usually run 3rd gear and keep the rpm's around 4,500 to 6,000 rpm. At that range, the 1125 just flat FLIES!!!

Time2Run
Neil S.
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Ducxl
Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heck,i don't even shift into 6th until over 90 mph.And even then if i'm going for thrust/passing,i HAVE to downshift one or two gears.

Or it lugs.

Maybe...too many Harley riders thinking all bikes ride like the "lump"
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Helicon
Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Redscuell, that sounds very similar to what would happen with the noid installed. Have you de-noided your bike?
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I experimented this AM on my way to work. Mine pulls just fine from the rpm/ gear you are talking about. I would suggest that you see your Dealer and make sure all your flashes are up to date.

Neil S.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The majority of my "break-in" was done - WFO to 100 mph, shut-off down to 60mph. repeat.

Loretta pulled fine from day one doing that, in 6th.
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Clarkjw
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You aren't getting your bike deep enough into the revs try 1 or 2 gears lower. 8k is peak power and a great time to shift. I've done 50mph in first, with 1.5k rpms to spare. The bike vibrates, but that will soften once you open it up for extended periods.
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Redscuell
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hmmm, not quite what I was looking for. My comment was that the bike goes FASTER at SMALLER throttle openings than at WOT. Telling me to shift down doesn't address that anomaly in any way.

IOW, I was after a technical answer, not a riding answer. But it is de-noided, and I should've mentioned that in my initial post. Yes, I'm cruising at freeway speeds; I use the lower gears for fuel economy because I commute 10 hours per week at those speeds.

I've decided to put it down to the oversize of the throttle bores resulting in too-low intake velocity at larger throttle openings. My textbook references warned that velocity was quite low for the displacement of the engine, even given rpm.

The two 2.5" diameter throttle bores are EACH as large as the SINGLE throttle body on my two 86 SVO Turbo Mustangs (for those of you who don't actually read my text (see above), I'm not referring to the compressor inlet), which push 200hp each.

So I'm expecting that BMC needed to make the oversized bores on the R to feed the substantially higher revs of a motorbike; and that results in low intake velocities at lower rpm, which requires smaller throttle openings.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

O I C
Oops
My Jeep does that but I have not noticed it on the 11.

Z
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Dirty_john
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By opening the throttle wide at a relatively low road speed and rpm you are overthrottling the engine,it is a testiment to the quality of the fuel injection system that the bike accelerates at all. In the good old carb days there would have been just a lot od backfiring - I used to have 42mm accelerator pump Dell O'rto carbs on my Ducati.
The 1125R engine needs to be revved to produce power, it is not a Thunderstorm engine which has ample torque at low rpm.
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Buelltech6
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

GET RID OF INTERACTIVE INTAKE. YOU WANTED THE CORRECT ANSWER THIS IS IT. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM SO WHEN I GOT TO WORK I CALLED TECH SERVICES THEY TOLD ME TO REMOVE IT
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Kttemplar
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Redscuell,

I read in your profile that you have de-activated the solenoid, but left it in place. I assume this means that you just unplugged it. If you have not attached the portion of the throttle butterfly on the solenoid cable to the part of the butterfly mechanism connected to the throttle cable, then the butterfly on the rear throttle body can move independently of your throttle inputs. It is possible, that for some reason it is moving when you go to WOT. It might be worth checking the solenoid cable at the throttle body and seeing if there is any play/slack in it. If there is slack in the solenoid cable at the throttle body, then it theoretically, will allow the rear butterfly to fluctuate (might as well take slack out of the throttle cable too, while you are in there, many of these bikes have had throttle cable slack from the factory). If the solenoid cable is slack or has play in it, then maybe the conditions created by going WOT (high pressure, high airflow, & vibration) is allowing the butterfly to close partially, causing your loss of power at WOT. Just some thoughts.

Mike

(Message edited by kttemplar on February 13, 2009)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

GET RID OF INTERACTIVE INTAKE. YOU WANTED THE CORRECT ANSWER THIS IS IT. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM SO WHEN I GOT TO WORK I CALLED TECH SERVICES THEY TOLD ME TO REMOVE IT

INteresting that BMC would recommend something that would put the bike in violation of noise emissions law.
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Krassh
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Interactive intake solenoid does absolutely nothing in 5 and 6 gear like described by the OP.

It only activates at a Specific RPM in a specific gear.
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Buelltech6
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fresno buell, you got a funny way about you. why is it so hard to believe. some people know how to get answers. besides its not on there race bike go figure. and i dont care what you say ride the bike on the dyno and ride it like your riding on the street you will see that solenoid doing some funny things. in all gears between 3500 and 4500 when you wack the throttle regardless of what they say it does.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whatever. I find it hard to believe that the factory would tell an owner to pull a mandated piece of the noise emissions system. And IF they did, it's pretty irresponsible to post that here.

(Message edited by fresnobuell on February 13, 2009)
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Ponti1
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It only activates at a Specific RPM in a specific gear.

I know this has been covered time and time again, but why would it be specific to a gear?

I'm both curious as to the logic behind it
, and not so sure that's true since I can trip mine in 2nd as well as 3rd, or at least I can cause the CEL doing the same WOT from the proper RPM range (no solenoid there to cause the hesitation).



(Message edited by ponti1 on February 13, 2009)
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What Fresnobuell alluded to in the second post, I believe, is pretty much the norm for ANY kind of relatively high performance engine weather bike or car especially one tuned to go to 10000 rpm or more and especially one with this much throttle bore. Even if it does not stumble or hesitate it will accelerate at a much slower rate then if you drop down one or even two gears............on ANY vehicle. I'll bet I can pull harder and faster giving it smaller throttle at that low an rpm then even trying to go WFO. But for the absolute fastest acceleration try WFO in any gear from 6000 and HOLD ON. Thats what true sport/super bikes are all about along with great handling. Treat it like the hybrid it is and it WILL be fun. Just my take. Stay safe, Bob
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 01:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know this has been covered time and time again, but why would it be specific to a gear?

I believe that it has to do with the EPA noise emissions at a certain RPM and speed range, which on the 1125r puts it in 3rd gear. I read the EPA stuff a while ago, but I THINK that is why the solenoid activates when it does.
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Jmr1283
Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i was going to say take the inner air box out and itll take away ur problem. it did with mine.

good luck
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