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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through January 30, 2009 » DIY ZLT2 pad change ? « Previous Next »

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Hooliagn
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can't get the inner pads out............HELP !
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Hooliagn
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is where I am.




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P_squared
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Easiest to change the pads with the wheel off.

Barring that, it can be done with the wheel on, but it's a real PITA. You'll need to loosen the caliper, then disconnect the rotor, then disconnect the caliper, then play rubik's cube to get the old pads out & the new pads in.

I've done it both ways, and I prefer the wheel off method.
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Hooliagn
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

GOTOBEMORE
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P_squared
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Huh?

If you mean there's got to be more to it, then no. 2 bolts & 2 pins for the caliper, then all the bolts holding the brake rotor (don't loose the springs, blocks, etc.), put 1 in each hand and 'manipulate' until you can get the inside pads out. Once done, re-assemble in reverse & make sure you torque per spec on the rotor.

Like I said, easiest to do it w/ the wheel off.
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Hooliagn
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

GOTOBEMORE is profanity without using profanity........
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Hooliagn
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanx for your help.
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P_squared
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it's any consolation, it took ~2 hrs. the 1st time for me w/ the wheel on method. It can be done, so keep yer chin up.
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Blazin_buell
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not meaning to hijack ,but if anyone is looking to have a black caliper instead of the red one (someone on here has painted his)I would gladly swap and pay your shipping. I really like the red and I'm slowly putting more red highlights on my '08. Thanks and PM if your interested.
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I figured it couldn't hurt to change the brake fluid, and just popped the line loose, slid the caliper down, and it was a piece of cake.

This was on my XB, though, and I think it would work the same.

How many miles did you get from the front pads? What kind are you going back with?

Rob
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Spectrum
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took 40 mins for my pad change. That included taking the wheel off and putting it all back together. By the way I do take the wheel off and put it back on without removing the caliper.

Also be sure and take the shims off the stock pads and put them on the HH pads as they do not come with shims.
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Ccryder
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shims?? You mean the "thermal backing plates" ;+}.

I made the mistake once talking to a brake pad mfg and he quickly informed me of all the science behind the shims. Oh well, live and learn.

I don't recall if my new pads have the backing plates or not. I'll have to find them and look. At 16,000+ miles I still have mucho pad left.
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Hooliagn
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bike only has 56 miles on it......... S N O W ...... sux !
I will be putting the EBC's in the picture on, I figured the oem's didn't have time to seat yet so now would be a good time to change them.
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Bigblock
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Disconnect the rotor? From the wheel? NO!!!

GET THE MANUAL, it's not that hard, but I don't want to be responsible for someone else's lifeline in terms of front brake on the internet...

GET THE MANUAL!!!
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Funktron
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it is inherent that anything read on the intertube should be taken with a grain of salt. If anyone takes it for gospel, he/she is about to be the one chlorined out of the gene pool of life.

Def get the manual, learn tricks, tips, and reminders from people online.
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P_squared
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before you hunt me down w/ a pitchfork for even suggesting to disconnect the rotor, notice I did state it's not the 'preferred' method, to ensure "you torque per spec on the rotor", etc.

+1 on the manual & following it.

Having had to change the pads in my garage w/out the benefit of being able to remove the wheel, before a manual was avaiable, I had to do it the way I did it THAT time. Again, not my 'preferred' method.

The only reason I commented w/ it was based upon how I read & interpreted the post. e.g. "HELP!!!! I can't get the pad out and my pic has the wheel still on" assuming he had no access to a lift/stand to remove said wheel and needed to do it NOW.

If that does not suffice to at least reduce my public flogging, then oh well.
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Hooliagn
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank You all for the help.

I managed to strap the bike up to in the garage, remove the front wheel and change the pads. It took no longer then 30-45 minutes.
My manual just came in, so i'll be using that from now on.
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Bigblock
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I won't be flogging anybody ... sounds like prob solved, anyways...
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