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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through June 12, 2008 » Tell me it gets better « Previous Next »

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Kpmo
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, so I just bought the 1125 after years of rice, liked the looked, reviews I read were good figured I would try it. So I get the bike and I like the handling, the suspension and cornering are great for me. There is one thing that I absolutely hate! The bogging down, hesitation feeling I feel when I just want to cruise, 2 - 4k rpms. I know the bike is built for speed, I get it, but I can't go 50 down every side road...so I even sent the bike back to the shop after one day figuring something's wrong with it, bad gas, fouled plug, something...yeah, no that's the way it rides, it's normal. So guys, does this go away after the break in period??

The second issue is the bike gets so damn hot, the heat coming off of it, in addition to the heat in Florida is crazy. I know that is something I need to live with.

So, honestly is the hesitating, bogging down ride ever going to go away, this bike has little miles on it but I'm already big time disappointed in the ride...does it get better?? I read some of the threads and it doesn't seem like it will - help!!!
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Rdmwc
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well, i dont know if im much help considering mine really isnt that "boggy and hesitat-y". although i havent had any other bike to compare to. i've found at least on mine, is that if i ride in the lower k's, it runs ALOT smoother if i really feather the throttle... only give it a very tiny bit to accel. if you give it much at all, it will chug! also, my dealer had told me when i got it that below, and up to 4k i would have to probably have to feather the clutch because it likes to run higher k's than that. im not real keen on the idea of riding the clutch to make it run smooth down low, but i noticed that i barely have to put pressure on the clutch lever at all and its enough to smooth her out. not sure if i made any sense but hope i helped! good luck! overall it does run better after breakin, and is ALOT more fun!!

(Message edited by rdmwc on June 05, 2008)
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Bigeasy
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Runs alot better after break in. You will notice a difference after the first oil change also. There are alot less vibes as you put more miles on it. Change the coolant to engine ice too. Seems to help as I live in New Orleans and it is africa hot here now!!! Good luck you'll love it in the end.
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Cutty72
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you are used to rice, you should be used to running higher R's anyway.
Just keep it above 4 and you never have issues.

But yes, it does smooth out after break in.
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Pariah
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have no problems cruising (clutched fully engaged) with my 1125 at low speeds... say 20-35mph in first or second gear. I've never ridden rice, so I have no basis of comparison. I do know that it likes to rev above about 3500 rpm or it chugs. I don't think that it can be expected that a V-Twin run quite as smoothly as an in-line 4 (assuming that's the sort of rice you're referring to)...

In central Texas heat (right now between 90-100F), on a 20 minute ride, the bike doesn't seem to generate excessive heat. But I'm fairly geared up... usually, Bohn armor pants underneath Kevlar-reinforced jeans, Sidi Evo Air boots, back protector, Alpinestars T-Stunt2 jacket... it's counterintuitive, but I think if you're not wearing enough gear, you'll feel hotter (e.g., shorts versus proper riding pants).

(Message edited by pariah on June 06, 2008)
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Xb9
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"So, honestly is the hesitating, bogging down ride ever going to go away?"

Yes, when the next calibration comes out I expect it should be fixed. Sadly, they botched the last one, and since the calibrations have to be EPA approved (Government Bureaucracy), it takes a bit of time to fix. We need to be patient, I think it's worth the wait. It's a fantastic motorcycle.
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Thurstonbuell
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree , I love it as well , and it WILL be worth the wait , Xb .....I sent you an email , did you get it ???
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Damn, the more of these threads the more I get confused....mine is getting stronger and smoother at 4,700 miles. To the point that I have not gotten the re-flash and have no immediate plans to do so. What is up with the variance in these bikes?!?!??!
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Thurstonbuell
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Too many variables for one , IMO , for one I'm starting to think my bike may improve slightly with the warmer weather upper 80's , as opposed to how she was running in the upper 30's low 40's , but i also make every effort possible to avoid ANY commuting thru town , traffic or situation which may aggravate the situation ?????
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Kpmo
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys thanks for some of the info, another question for you. I had it out today and when the back break was applied it was howling, loud whistle, that is not a constant is it?? Or is it just a pad issue?

Please be patient, I'm learning
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Spectrum
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope, howling or whistling brake is not normal. Might also be some foreign object lodged in there.
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Bigeasy
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

same here fresno
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Blazin_buell
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The reflash did help smooth mine out a bit and use some scotch brite to clean the exhuast glaze to get rid of the howling brake, granted it might come back in time and repeat until an exhaust alternative comes out.
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Smoke
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

mine is 19-20mph in 1st gear at 3000rpm, 40-45 in 2nd at 3000rpm. what gear are you riding in and what is cruising speed that is exhibiting these symptoms? i don't quite get it.
tim
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Kpmo
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Smoke:

At this time it is just about any speed, any gear in the 3k - 4k range. I took it out today and as everyone has said it goes great at 4,500 and above. Everyone is throwing out these terms mapping and ECM adjustment can someone please explain?
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Smoke
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2nd at 3000 is actually 28, 2nd at 6000 is 42-45. tried to see where it would buck and 5th and 6th at 30mph were not very comfortable.
tim
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Dalton_gang
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thurston,

Mine got worse with the warmer weather.
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Jlnance
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 07:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bogging down, hesitation feeling I feel when I just want to cruise, 2 - 4k rpms.

Here is the dyno plot Buell publishes:





If it looked good below 4500 RPM, I bet they would have included that in the graph. : )

I would make it a habit to keep the engine spinning above 4k.

I don't own an 1125 (ridden a few) but I do own a Uly, and went through the process of discovering that it too likes the engine to spin fairly fast. It runs much better if you keep the engine around 4k. It always bugged me that the owners manual says to shift it lower, I mean surely Buell would know what numbers to put in the owners manual right? Then I discovered I got better gas mileage with the engine spinning faster. Better power AND better gas mileage is a pretty good indication that I'm doing something right. I've come to the conclusion that there are legal reasons the owners manuals are written as they are.
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Jpfive
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 07:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can see the dyno curves from my bike, along with those of my XB12Ss in the 'deals gap and dyno run' thread in this section. Both bikes run on the same dyno.

Torque is not bad below 4500. My bike will pull smoothly at WOT from 3000 rpm, and strongly from 4000. It will cruise as low as 3000 without complaint, but it does hunt a little at 3500 +/- 100. I have the reflash, and 4300 miles on my bike.

Actually, the bike was even better at low rpms before the flash, but the net improvement in other areas make it worthwhile - especially in fuel economy and WOT response from lower rpm.

Jack
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Kpmo
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 08:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, so what is this flash everyone talks about? Should I ride to 600 miles and have the dealer flash the bike and check the ECM??
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Ccryder
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Keith:

If you build date (on the frame near the VIN) is April 08 or newer, then you don't need the flash (per Buell).

Neil S.
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Cutty72
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking that dyno sheet is measured off the crank, not rear wheel.

When they ran mine on the dyno, they didn't start measuring until 4k, So I couldn't tell ya.
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Jlnance
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, so what is this flash everyone talks about?

There is a type of computer memory, known as flash memory, which does not loose it's contents when you turn it off. It is used to store the program that runs your bike's computer.

"Flashing" means to reprogram this flash memory in the bike with a new program. Buell released an updated program a little while back, and this is what people are talking about.
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