| Author | Message | ||
     Z5derek |
my new 1125r has developed a pulsing and after some investigation i came to the conclusion that it ius 6-8 thousandths out the dealer said that that was within spec how do you figure? what are my alternatives | ||
| Jaimec |
Do the ZTL2 brakes have the same issues with pulsing as the ZTL? If so, the issue is solved by changing your brake pads to one of the non-OEM brands. I don't know if Lyndall makes pads for the ZTL2, but they've solved the pulsing problem on all of the XB's of which I'm familiar... | ||
| Spectrum |
This is the same ole issue with deposit build up from the OEM pads. Just use some Scotch Bright and brake cleaner to remove deposits and the problem will be solved I do this as regular maintenance every time I wash the bike. | ||
| Ccryder |
Derek: On my 12r I had some pulsation on the front rotor. I determined that it was not warped or "out" but, it had build up of pad material. After doing a number of hard stops the OEM pads cleaned off the rotor. Fast forward to my 1125r. After 4,000+ miles, my front brake feels great! I learned from my 12r that passive braking can cause pad material to build up on the rotor. You don't need to do stoppies every time you stop but, dragging the brake during slow stopping can cause this problem. Take it out and do some hard stopping (as hard as you are comfortable with) and see if this helps. Please be careful where you do this and the surface you do it on since it can create a hazardous scenario. | ||
| Bigblock |
FUnny, I've found the opposite with mine, that REALLY aggressive braking can lead to a pulsing feel. I have noticed either that scotchbfite for sure fixes this, albeit temporarily, and also a bit of milder braking will sometimes set her right, as well. I wonder what my "aggressive" and "milder" braking is compared to youse guys, and /or is it equipment related? | ||
| Slypiranna |
Mine with over 4k miles now doing very hard and very light braking under all street conditions feels fine. Better than most Big Four open liter bikes that I'm akin to prior to the switch. I'm very happy with the Buell's 11 front slow down method. Seems kinda hard to take any sort of accurate measure on a floating rotor though? It IS designed to "move" laterally with heat and wear. I'm sure the tolerance to this measurement would surprise most in knowing for sure...but without a manual!!! MANUAL!!!  Pretty Please? | ||
| Nickcaro |
 o' man I wish I had posted that question 2 weeks ago, instead of running out and getting a new rotor... DOH! | ||
| Chameleon |
I also had problems with my original rotor. Had the service manager at Destination Harley-Davidson/Buell in Puyallup, WA take it for a spin around the parking lot just after they closed and he said it's 'definitely warped'. He was able to replace my rotor, pads & pins all under warranty. Destination Puyallup is a fantastic dealer. Surely it helps that I've purchased 3 bikes in less than 1 year from them. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I am on my third front rotor on my ULY...38K...and the third is starting to get the pulsations..wish I had Brembos on it... this crap is very rare with them under normal conditions... | ||
| Spectrum |
Clean the deposit on a regular basis or change the pads as Jaimec mentioned and this is not a problem. | ||
| Bigeasy |
Buell Racing makes a 6 mm thick rotor for about 130$ | ||
| Spectrum |
Art what's the thickness on the stock rotor and what's the weight difference? | ||
| Chameleon |
Take it out and do some hard stopping (as hard as you are comfortable with) and see if this helps. I tried this on my 1125R and did notice an improvement. The last time I did it, I hit the brake so hard that the oil light came on! Went off after a couple revs to get fluid flowing again... Likely due to fluid leaking out the side of the clutch cover. Need to get that replaced. Dealer checking into it. | ||
| Bigeasy |
I believe the sock rotor is 5mm thick but not sure. I dont think the extra weight would make much diff in the handling. | ||
| Z5derek |
OK guys i have tried most of the things suggested i cleaned the rotors with a scotch brite that made it better for a while. i have done some hard braking exersises(rear wheel in the air) this is great fun but it is hard to control when the front is pulsing. i want to try new pads before i buy a rotor but my local sources are coming up with nothing what do you suggest | ||
| The_internet |
what i don't like about the front brake is that if im in a corner, say right hand and im a little hot, if i touch the front brakes the handlebars "pull" one way, then when i release the brakes it "pulls" the other way. makes me feel yucky to worry about it. i know tag the back brake and push the inner peg down, but i also want to be able to brake thru a corner and not feel like im gonna low/high side it. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Might want to check your suspension settings to make certain they're even for both forks. That can cause that if one side if off from the other. |
