| Author | Message | ||
     Ccryder |
Z: Maybe just the low beam bulbs. Even though they are all the same. Plans, especially backup plans are VERY good to have in place, before you need them ;+}. Neil S. | ||
| Bob_thompson |
If I was Mike (Baggermike), I would, and I think he has the time, go back to COMPLETELY stock and begin troubleshooting the absolute basics. When all seems correct then do as Zac has suggested and begin "one change at a time" noting results. If while stock all does not seem correct, use the dealer primarily for correction in parts, etc. I would also check the dealers troubleshooting with my own and I would stay patient if I really wanted to do a lot of riding this summer. I would also hope I have not voided my warranty with what I already have done. The KISS principal usually works for me. Pretty simple troubleshooting really. We also absolutely NEED a service manual though to help our dealers do their job better. Whatcha think Mike? Stay safe, Bob | ||
| Baggermike |
Hey Bob I am at stock almost, I have a gps hooked up and a volt meter tach light that in shift mode really does not come on. I have added led lights to the front running lights so I am sure I am only using what the bike is designed to handle, I have 35 watt bulbs so it is just my gps that takes is taking extra power, no more heated gear. NO MORE HEATED GEAR. ((NO MORE HEATED GEAR)) Mike | ||
| Cataract2 |
Mike, can you get some charge numbers for us with a volt meter? It's been awhile since you've put those up. List your config. too when you post them and if it's at idle, rpms up or off. | ||
| Bigdog_tim |
Ok - last (and I REALLY hope) final update on my VR/charging issue. I got the new VR installed on Monday. Bike ran great - but couldn't get into setup mode to reset the clock. Just never had time to pull a battery wire to force the "reboot". Rode it Tuesday and had it parked yesterday and today. Finally found the time to pull a battery wire - and yep, after putting it back on everything works as expected. Also note I checked the battery level and she was showing FULL! So - I will keep the charger in the tank bag this weekend (gonna visit some friends in Oregon) - I think I am going to pronounce my issue fully closed. After the manual comes out and we start compiling a list of FAQ's, disconnecting battery to reset irregularities in the electronics sounds like a good item to add. | ||
| Baggermike |
OK I have not used heated gear in some time froze my ass of the other day, I had a doctors appointment and did not want to miss it so I put the bike on the battery tender, so I left to ride with a fully charged battery rode with high beams on and gps, most of the way was highway at 65 mph right around 4000 rpms hit a few lights and light traffic and when I was almost there the engine light came on, so it started and rode home this time all highway and no stops and got home and the battery was 12.5, now when I check running voltage at the battery with a volt meter and it was 13.9 at idle and when I increased the rpms the voltage would drop down to 13.7, I have seen this bike charging in the mid 14.5 but no more, went riding yesterday with the low beams on and got home and the battery was 12.3, also I live were it is cold so I have not ridden the bike in warm weather yet or far. Mike | ||
| Gtmg |
I don't usually post on the trouble forums but the main issue is that most Buell owners do not feel comfortable with their dealer. That is the flaw in the approach that has Buell only talking with the dealerships. The main flaw in the entire Buell line is the dealership issue. A perfect approach would have someone really doing infant care with these type of issues and working with the the dealer and the OWNER. I feel fully confident that eventually Mike's problems will be solved with both the 1125 and Uly. Though it seems to take too much time on some bikes Buell seems to come through almost always in the end. | ||
| Gtmg |
I have a question. Does everyone agree that is not enough in the charging circuit to carry typical heated clothing? What is the wattage? I think I saw 300 watts? | ||
| Ccryder |
Michael: I've had my 25r for 11 days. 8 of those days I was able to ride to work. 6 of those days I used my Gerbings jacket for the 52 mile ride to work. I had no trouble starting at lunch or when it was time to go home. I ran a battery tender overnight, the first 2 nights. After that, I just rode the piss out of it. 900 miles later, she is sitting pretty out in the garage waiting for the next ride. If you have heated gear use it like you normally would. Just don't go overboard with too much. My SWAG is you can use heated grips or gloves and a jacket w/o a problem. Keep your rpms around 4500-5500 and you will be safe. This has been my experience over the past 11 days (that's all the data I have, so that's all I can base my recommendation on, oh yeah and the past 35 years and 500,000+ miles of riding on 2 wheels). Time2sleep Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
432 watts at 7000 rpms and a 32 amp three phase charging system. | ||
| Baggermike |
Neil My jacket is 90 watts and yours is I think 77 or 67 anyway less than mine and riding home from the dealership which is like a 110 mile ride all highway at 4300rpms got home with a dead battery. I just read that if the charging volts are under 13.8 something is wrong, I put a volt meter on and it will show 13.9 but the higher the rpms the lower it goes, I have seen this bike in the fourteens and as increased rpms it went from the thirteens to the fourteens as I revved the bike, I rode yesterday and got a voltage code and all I was using is the high beams and my gps, code PO562 is a voltage code and the engine light came on not the battery light, I can understand heated gear but just the high beams and gps and I replaced the front two 5 watt bulbs with leds that take next to nothing in watts, something is wrong if the bike can not handle high beams on. Mike | ||
| Baggermike |
Come on Guys stop getting me to post, I have been accused of complaining and do not want to post anything anymore. Mike | ||
| Ccryder |
Mike: I'm just stating my experience like you are stating your experience. I can say I have not had your issues. No way to tell if our accessory equipment compares or our riding habits etc. Your 25r will not take your loads with your riding conditions. My 25r will take my loads and riding conditions. Just the facts, without any conclusions. Time4Sleep Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
Neil do you have a volt meter and can test your bikes running voltage and if it goes down or up as the rpms increase and what the voltages are. or use the dio mode then I can do the same and see if we get the same readings. thanks. Mike | ||
| C4bird |
Mike, I ran a quick voltage measure on my bike today. At idle when cold, bike was making 14.8-14.9 volts. As the engine reached operating temp, volts dropped to 13.8-13.9. When I would rev it, voltage would drop as low as 13.5. When the fans kicked on, and I'd rev it to 6k, voltage would drop to 13.3. This sound similar to what you are seeing? | ||
| Court |
>>>I have been accused of complaining See that's my problem . . . I've tried to read each and every one of these posts and missed the one where anybody complained. Where the heck is that and why would anyone complain? What I did say is that (and bear in mind I base this ONLY on spending 20 years helping Buell owners solve some really weird problems) is that you have made it incredibly difficult for folks to help you by constantly changing stuff. You could think of it as the folks at Buell Customer Service as your running back trying to run a touchdown for you while you are running around moving the goal posts. Of, to quote a Buell Tech, you make it like trying to hold balloons under water in a bathtub. There is good news. Buell, a company that is still honoring (periodically based on circumstance) 1 year warranties that expired over 10 years ago (I recently helped the owner of a 98 S3-T get a complete new set of bodyworks with the folks at Buell) is sure to get your problems sorted out . . . . They are really good, really patient and are here for the long run. | ||
| Ccryder |
Mike: I have a meter to check voltages. This won't happen till next week. I'm on a "mission" this weekend to STL. Time for my SO and I to spend some quality time with my Mom. Later Neil | ||
| Jpfive |
Wow, what a thread... I am closing the chapter on my bike's charging problem. I left the bike off the tender while on vacation this last week. After ten days I got a reading of 12.8V across the terminals. I think I can safely conclude three things: 1. The drain that caused my battery to go dead was related to a bad stator. 2. The Buell team, in conjunction with the fine folks at HD/Buell of Pensacola, correctly diagnosed the problem and repaired it. 3. The electrical system works as it was intended when all components are functioning properly. For anybody still tracking the number of 'problems' being posted on this site, please remove my bike from the list. I am a completely satisfied owner. Jack | ||
| Ccryder |
Good deal Jack! Now get out there are RIDE! Time2Work Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks C4bird my bike is like that but does not go over 13.9 cold, Neil it will now be interesting on your test, I am going to test my charging system again cold and hot, then leave the bike on the battery tender and do it again with a fully charged battery. Mike | ||
| Baggermike |
Hey Court you keep saying I added all these things and all I have done to the bike is add a battery tender cable, volt meter shift light, gps, and no longer using heated gear which plugged in to the battery tender jack. I took out the two five watt running light bulbs and replaced them with leds, can you explain how what I have done consumes so much power that it is draining the battery or hurting the bike? Mike | ||
| Bob_thompson |
I just caught something that Jpfive said: "the Buell team---------correctly diagnosed the problem and corrected it" Evidently it was the stator. Now it seems to me that there just might be a very few stators out there, like Baggermikes might be, that somehow slipped by quality control, as happens in any mass produced vehicle. It also seems that his dealer or another dealer should be able to, with assistance from the factory, do a test on the stator (maybe just a simple resistance test) and verify it is in fact good, bad or boarder line and maybe finally putting this group of a few problems to rest for all those with problems AND in the process increase appeal of the new 1125 at least here on BadWeb and boost sales nationwide. Worked for Jp. Just a thought FWIW. Bob | ||
| Baggermike |
I just started my bike and read the voltage was 13.9 and then dropped to 13.8 so no volts in the fourteens cold, increased rpms and it dropped from there, I left my volt meter on the battery terminals and shut off the bike, I then watched the battery go from 12.7 to 12.4 less than a minute and seemed to stop there but will check later, I should have tested it first so I will repeat the test, VERY STRANGE anyone know about batteries that can explain this. Mike | ||
| Slypiranna |
Baggermike...to isolate this voltage drop after shutdown. ...cooling fan running after shutdown? ...fuel pump? It does continue to cycle and maintain system pressure...unless you have a good ear, you might not be hearing it but you should be able to trace and identify its operation. ...try pulling fuses one by one until the load on the meter is gone to isolate that load. ...while another bad battery seems too obvious, it can't be eliminated until you prove all the above. The battery should stabilize almost right after ALL the loads have been removed. If you still have a voltage drop, proven by disconnecting/reconnecting the neg or pos leads from the terminals and seeing it as fact on your meter then I would have to say that THE load has not been identified...keep looking as it IS there. I would also have to ASSUME (DANGEROUS WORD) that the batt would be somewhat eliminated from the equation. Just trying to help and best of luck in isolating this issue. Remember, the simplest problems have beat the best of us...hang in there. | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Slip, I do want a better battery just because that is the only problems I have had with bikes, plus the voltage regulator was bad and can hurt a battery and I will sleep better with a new fresh battery that I know is better than the stock one, also joining mts towing and they will bring you a battery or gas or tow and you just pay for the gas or battery, I have blown up a few two strokes but never had a four stroke bike leave me stranded besides a battery going bad. I am confident I will get it right, just would help to have a workshop manual. Mike | ||
| Slypiranna |
Mike, I did not mean for you to assume that your battery is the problem by my last post. Please read again what I suggested in order to help identify the problem by process of elimination. You do not need a manual for this. This is simply, simple diagnostics. If this is not something that your up to then you have no choice but to take her back to your local dealer. If you do take her back in, ask for the tech to show you, on his/her meter, the actual measurements so that you can be certain before riding off into the sunset again that they were right. I cannot see any other method moving forward to a positive resolve other than the above processes. I also cannot see any blind shot in the dark/post here with a definite answer to your issue. It would be pure luck, I'm sure, if such took place. Again, best of luck and wishes on your 11. peace out | ||
| Baggermike |
No Slip I planned on buying a better battery thence the voltage regulator went bad, I also was told that a higher amp hour battery will heat me gear better and I can get a 14 amp hour battery and the one we have is an 12 amp hour battery, I really want an oddessey but would have to make mods for it to fit they have a three year guaranty and like a 8 year service life, I think of the battery as the Brains of new bike and with out it, it will not run, I miss the days of no battery needed to run, and kick start only, I also plan on getting a less wattage heated jacket liner so I should be fine, I need to test the bike by riding it up to my dealership with high beams and gps nothing else this will show if I have a problem or not from what I have been told, I am just waiting for it to warm up a little to do this with out heated gear they are right off the highway so I can ride in and be tested, if it passes that then all is well. Mike | ||
| Slypiranna |
Mike...FYI, a higher amp hour capacity will only prelong the time it takes to run dead...IF there is a load upon it. It will not fix a current drain, IF one exists...it will only allow it to drain the battery for a longer period of time before the battery falls below the capacity to start your 11. Tenders and higher amp hour batteries are not the answer here on a normal, weekly...even biweekly, driven 11. I'm sure that there are even some here, due to the climate/schedules that have had longer times go by without an issue. A defective charging system, insufficient charging system, bad ground, ill load, excessive load or short...OR again and possibly, a bad battery are one or more of the issues that we continue to discuss on this thread. Finally, again, only systematic processes of elimination will point to the cause/solution. It IS an issue that can be resolved. One a side note, save the $ on a towing service bagger...when your 11 is happy again, you won't need it!  ...good luck at the dealer and let us know their findings. We all want to see this subject soon closed and everyone happy!...and YOU ARE included in that! ...goodnight... | ||
| Baggermike |
HI Slip I know that the battery is not the solution to the problem and that it is a storage vessel and when something else if wrong it will only allow me longer time before draining, OK I had the bike on the battery tender last night and then went for a ride, I should have read the battery voltage was when I left but did not but I did read it when a got home about an hour later and read 12.73, I just tested it and 12.65, does not look like much of a difference to me but I do not know about batteries, Anyway I am installing either a kisan volt amp meter with temperature and ice alert and for 180 it comes with a smart charger, or I think I can hook up my car gauge amp meter between the negative post and frame this will tell me the amps I am using also, tonight I will charge the battery and disconnect the cables let it sit for an hour take a reading and then let sit overnight and take a reading again, I have the battery from my nephews bike and will do the same with his, this will give me something to go by, but no matter what I will still get a better battery towards the end of my list of things to buy. Mike | ||
| Unibear12r |
The flip side of charging voltage to charging a battery is the battery's internal resistance. Charging voltage and internal resistance determine the rate at which the battery recharges. A larger battery will have a larger plate to electrolyte area and "should" have larger internal current conductors. Hence a lower internal resistance and a higher charge rate for the same charging voltage. A higher quality battery "should" have larger internal conductors made of better materials which lowers internal resistance. Baggermike is correct about a larger/higher quality battery improving the entire system (as long as the alternator can put out the amps). May not make a change at idle but should charge better at rpms above that and have a greater reserve at idle. Then again going from a 12ah to 14ah battery may not make a noticeable difference. Also the problem in batteries is are you getting what you pay for. It still sounds like Mike has a discharge problem. My 1125 battery drops .01vdc a day sitting with the key off. I've already figured out it will sit weeks and start fine. A voltage change like he's getting sounds a lot like an internal short or bad cell in the battery. Going from 12.7 to 12.4 in a minute almost has to be a bad battery. It would take a very large external load to do that. If you charge and disconnect the battery and it shows much of a voltage drop overnight, let alone a minute it's bad. |
