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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through January 28, 2008 » CHARGING SYSTEM HELP « Previous Next »

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Baggermike
Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have used my heated gear on the ulysses and the 1125R and have felt the difference between the two bikes and just had my voltage regulator replaced. the 1125R is a 3 phase 32 amp 435 watt charging system and I rode home with my high beams on and figured out that the total wattage was 340 watts with my heated gear leaving 95 watts, now the uly is a 405 watt 30 amp single phase charging system and uses 80+ watts and using my heated gear on that bike comes to a total of 220 watts leaving 185 watts, now adding this stuff up between the two bike comes out to the 1125 having 95 watts left and the uly has 185 watts left, so my question is - is my heated gear to much for the 1125R charging system, I can feel the difference between the two bikes on how hot the heated gear gets, and after having my voltage regulator replace I rode home all the way hyway at 4300 rpms and got home and the battery was drained and the check engine light was on, so can anyone help me figure out if it is the bike or the gear that is causing the problem. Thanks. Mike
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Baggermike
Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgot to add the charging system is putting out between 13.5 and 14.5 so if everything is pointing to my gear draining the battery then is there a way to be able to get the bike to power my gear by a bigger battery, the bikes manual say see Buell dealer for advice about the amount of current consumed by additional electrical accessories, or for necessary wiring changes. (00249b) so does this mean the wiring system can be changed. Mike
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike, by your numbers, you have less power leftover to go to the battery than it takes to light a 100 watt bulb.
Sounds like you're cutting it close.
Drop the highbeams, they're nice on girls, but unfriendly on the highway and eat up too many watts.

Cut down any loads you can, like gloves or grips, not both.

5 or 7 minutes from home, turn everything off and let your charging system dump into the battery.

As of yet, I'm not aware of a heavy duty alternator kit/upgrade, but I bet one is available within months, especially if any police departments pick them up.
It'd make a good pursuit bike, if anyplace still pursues.

If necessary, I'm sure you could fit a bigger battery in there, more than likely at the cost of storage area.
That can be replaced with external storage tho but will only extend the time it takes to empty the battery.
If your loads are draining the battery, you need less loads or more power from your alternator.

Long rides are better than short rides for the charging system, as long as you're charging.
You're doing hour plus rides right?
With the short rides I get during the week, Loretta goes on the tender as soon as I pull in the garage.

Z
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many watts is your heated gear consuming?

50 watts goes a LONG way in heated gear...
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Reepicheep the jacket is rated at 90 watts but said 110, my gloves are 30 watts so lets say 140 with out my heated pant liners and socks, the bike makes 435 watts at 7000 rpm but I ride on the hyway at 4300 rpm, now with all the lights on and my jacket and gloves there is 95 watts left, but that is going by 435 watts at 7000 rpms and the watts are probably less at 4300 rpms so I think I got it figured out and got to rethink my gear, I have a heated vest that is rated at 40 watts, and I will get heated grips and use the heated gloves and maybe socks that I have, the bike has a acc outlet that will shut off if the battery get low, so I need to find it and know what it is rated for amps so I do not overload it but by using just the vest and glove with heated grips I should be fine, also I did not add the amount of power the ecm uses or other parts like the injectors, so I think I am asking to much from the system and it can not run everything, hope there is an upgrade in the future. Thanks. Mike
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Reepicheep the jacket is rated at 90 watts but said 110, my gloves are 30 watts so lets say 140 with out my heated pant liners and socks, the bike makes 435 watts at 7000 rpm but I ride on the hyway at 4300 rpm, now with all the lights on and my jacket and gloves there is 95 watts left, but that is going by 435 watts at 7000 rpms and the watts are probably less at 4300 rpms so I think I got it figured out and got to rethink my gear, I have a heated vest that is rated at 40 watts, and I will get heated grips and use the heated gloves and maybe socks that I have, the bike has a acc outlet that will shut off if the battery get low, so I need to find it and know what it is rated for amps so I do not overload it but by using just the vest and glove with heated grips I should be fine, also I did not add the amount of power the ecm uses or other parts like the injectors, so I think I am asking to much from the system and it can not run everything, hope there is an upgrade in the future. Thanks. Mike
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike - you can go a long way with a heated vest, sox and (gloves or grips) it's kind of a waste of critical power to run gloves and grips.
Then again, I might be talking out my ass, you ride in even worse weather than I do.
I'm real happy so far with the grips, comfort should improve when I get those PowerMadd brushgaurds.
My legs and feet have been fine, finger backs are still a problem.

If nothing is available, you should be able to buy a rotor/stator kit, take it to an electric motor shop and have it rewound for a higher output.
Your bike would only be down long enough to do the R&R.
Then you'd be able to run anything you want.

Z
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Zack. I have had heated grips in the past and I ride with two fingers on the levers and they suck the heat out of my two fingers, seen heated snow mobile grips that have a separate piece that goes on the thumb throttle and this is something I am thinking of doing to the levers, the snow mobile grips do not fit because of the increased size of the throttle sleeve, and if I screw up and the wires gets in the way when braking I am screwed, excellent combo that would make. Mike
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zack I am waiting for my son to get his ass ready to ride, I cant get him off the games so I just told him I am leaving. talk to you later. Mike
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LED brake tail lamps and signals might get you another 5 watt margin. A HID light might buy you another 20 watts or so. Not running low and high beam at the samn time would be your biggest bang for the buck.

It might be possible to build up some sort of switching type regulator and eeek another 10% out of the stock system as well...

The liner in my First Gear jacket and pants (some sort or metalized mylar with a fine black mesh over it) is so warm it's creepy. So you might be able to scare up some layer like that to go over the vest, and reduce the amount of power it needs.
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi guys just got back home from a sea shore ride, did not go over 3000 rpm most of the way if not all, I left and the battery read 12.3 after a night on the battery charger not running, now I got home after riding just with my gloves and vest on the whole way and my fingers were hot and did the dio again and the battery is 12.2 I started the bike and was idleing at 13.1 and higher and then switched on my heated vest and gloves and read 12.7 and higher, the vest and gloves are like running your high beams they both take seventy watts, so next test will be with the high beams on and the vest and gloves not that I have a starting point to go by. Mike
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