| Author | Message | ||
     Wsplrll |
Hey - I just got my new 04 Blast on Saturday ( well - I went to pick it up ad it needed a new battery) I didn't wait since I still needed a new helmet and I had to get that or not ride Sunday. So I went to get it on Sunday and it was ready. We fired it up and I proceeded to see how long it has been since I have been on a bike! After some awkwardness in the parking lot I decided to take the plunge and go down the road to the local park - 1000 feet on the highway) I am totally thrilled with this bike and feel like ?I am experiencing motorcycling at the most basic level! I now understand what you guys are always talking about. I few questions after getting home and really studying the manual. 1) How long should I warm up the bike? A minute or so while I get my gear on? The auto-"choke" seems to adjust after about 30 seconds or so. 2) I am reading that during the 1st 50 miles I should keep it below 2500 rpm. Since I am used to the old 2 strokes and I don't have a tach it is harder that I thought to estimate 2500. if 6500 is when the limiter kicks in then I am over a third of the way there at 2500 so.....I can't tell where I am while I am riding. I am trying not lug it and trying not to overrev but 2500 seems kind of low? I definitely have not been over 50 mph though. 3 ) I am reading the recommended shift speeds 15mph for 1st to 2nd, 25 for 2nd to 3rd etc. IS this the minimum? Or in other words shift when it is AT LEAST 15mph. I felt like I had a good handle on the engine sound and the shifting when I was riding I am pretty conservative - but after reading all this stuff I mentioned I am feeling a little confused. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks Happy to be Blasting ! | ||
| Jlnance  |
Hi William, Glad you like your Blast. I have had one for about 8 months, and I love it. I too found it interesting that the breakin procedure is specified in RPM when the bike has no tach. At least they put the gear ratios in the manual, so you could work it out if you really wanted to. What I did was to shift at the recomended speeds and not ride above the max speeds listed in the manual. The shift speeds were probably calculated to maximize gas mileage. I think most people are going a lot faster than that when they actually shift. The Blast has a rev limiter so you can not actually over rev the engine. It is not unheard of for people to just shift when the rev limiter kicks in, though that is a bit extream for every day riding. One thing to be careful of is that the Blast will use oil. Not a lot, but if you don't ever check the oil you will get into trouble. It will use less after breakin, but it will still use some. One thing which is annoying is that it makes a LOT of difference whether you check the oil hot or cold. You are susposed to check it hot. If you fill the oil when it is cold, it will have too much oil after it warms up. I find it easiest to check the oil when I return from a ride. That way the bike is hot and I have oil to add if I need to. | ||
| Wsplrll |
" At least they put the gear ratios in the manual, so you could work it out if you really wanted to. What I did was to shift at the recomended speeds and not ride above the max speeds listed in the manual. " Anyone know how to do that ??????? | ||
| Newblaster  |
Yes, but I'm waaaaaaaay too lazy. Just keep it around the manual shift points most of the time for the first 350ish miles, wick it up a bit (but don't go much over 55) for the next 100 miles, and then on the last 50, stretch out the shift points a little farther and keep it under 65ish. Most of the time. lol... After that, just keep upping your revs a bit at a time. After about 1000 miles, your shift points can be around these: 27-30 mph-shift into 2nd 40ish mph-shift into 3rd 50ish mph-shift into 4th 60ish mph-shift into 5th. That's for "performance-type" shifting. It will keep you away from the "torque curve dip" and in the fun RPM range (3500 and up). For non-performance (cruising around town) shifting, just pay attention to the bike and don't lug it. Oh, and like they said, check the oil. About warming up the bike, give it a few minutes. You'll notice when it drops to 1000ish, it becomes a slow, thump thump thump. Also, it won't drop any lower than that (unless you didn't turn the fuel valve on, lol...) So, sometime, just let it idle for 5 minutes or so. You'll get to know 1000 RPM, and then you'll always know when you're warmed up. Have fun! (Message edited by newblaster on February 08, 2005) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Warm-up: The manual says 15 to 30 seconds or until the idle comes down. My rec is 15 to 30 seconds (or as long as it takes to back the bike out of the garage and close the door). I wouldnt let it idle a long time (bad for engine especially when new). | ||
| Wsplrll |
I was out again yesterday morning and tried to pay attention to the speeds when shifting. I was tooling around some roads with some hills and twisties. I used to ride dirt bikes and maybe I am used to the higher reving engines, but it seems like if I shift at 15, 25,35, etc......I am really at low rpm and the engine is laboring a bit if I am going up a grade. Maybe low rpm is not really lugging......but I guess you can over analyze this rpm thing. I am pretty conservative and I am not pushing the bike and staying under 50 and my dealer told me to basically take it easy and vary the speeds ( as well as make sure it is warmed up. ) I am shifting between 15 and 20 into second and using that as my reference point for the engine sound for further shifting. Hard to just cruise at low speeds on a bike this much fun. I am suprised I went to work yesterday At least I am now over the 50 mile mark! | ||
| Newblaster |
I would say (and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong on this one) that, for the first half or so of break-in, that's a fine time to shift. Keep the RPM low, and all that. I would say, though, (and this is the part I may be wrong about) as soon as you hit 300-350 miles, start running the revs a little higher, a bit at a time. That's what I did, at any rate. I haven't had any engine-related difficulties, and I've got just over 11.5k on the odo right now. A little sad, it would be quite a bit higher, but I had some non-engine-related difficulties last year... | ||
| Jmynes |
While it's important to avoid over-taxing your engine during break-in, I believe it's more important not to let your engine lug at low RPMs. Lugging will put a pounding on your crank, bearings, connecting rod, and wrist pin and should be avoided. Staying in a lower gear will keep your RPMs up, but puts less of a beating on your engine than chugging along. |
