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Kwkride
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2016 - 11:35 am: | 
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"I have never seen that giant tank guard before!!! "
My Blast is a 2010 and it has the same guard on it. My understanding is that they are only on 2009-10 models. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2016 - 12:25 pm: |
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I've learned something today. Thanks |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2016 - 01:48 pm: |
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Thanks for the input Kwkride!!! Yes my bike is an '09. If you have gone through replacing any of those gaskets and have a kit you used or know of any sportster year that matches up with this guard I would be eternally grateful, just in case I have to go and replace it.
I have looked around for where to get a new PCV grommet, but am coming up empty handed for the most part. I think the lack of suppliers of Blast parts is one of my biggest knocks against bike in comparison to some of the other beginner bikes out there...
Any ideas on where I can find a new one, and also any suppliers that you guys currently know to still be in business and use? How much do we think a new PCV grommet will run me? I did an earlier search and found some pricey valves.
Do I just need a grommet, or a grommet and PCV valve, or do they come as one unit? This is well beyond anything I have done before.
As for cleaning the engine, I will look for the pig spit, but if it comes to WD40, I actually LOVE the smell of it, so that works for me. Just spray it on, let it sit, and wipe off? Anything I should make sure to not get it on???
Thanks again for all the help guys, I am determined to get this worked out so I can start to enjoy the bike again!! |
Kwkride
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2016 - 07:42 am: |
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I can't help there, I haven't needed to replace any gaskets. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2016 - 06:19 pm: |
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PM sent! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2016 - 06:32 pm: |
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I've never used WD40 on my engine, others have, but I don't have any idea how well or how to apply it.
"Pig Spit" is phenomenal!! Super easy to use, just spray it on-done! You don't have to scrub anything super clean before application either. After a 1000 mile trip, 300 miles of which were snow and rain, my engine cases cleaned right up looking brand new and this was the 2nd wash after I applied it!! |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Thursday, July 28, 2016 - 01:10 pm: |
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I will add some pig spit to my amazon cart! Hoping to call up Harley Davidson near me and see if they have any grommets and pcv valves for the Blast once I look up that part number. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Monday, August 01, 2016 - 09:14 am: |
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New PCV grommet and valve on order at HD in new hampshire. They are saying it should get to me sometime at the end of this week.
Any tips for how to remove the grommet and valve? Gearhead you warned to that the parts might be brittle and may break and fall when i try and remove. Any tips to avoid this? I can't find much on youtube or google, and a lot of time my searches get tainted with links relating to cars instead of motorcycles filling the page.....
As you can see in my previous pics, it looks like the last person tried out some adhesive or something on the valve. Will that affect how to remove the valve and grommet, and should I put some sort of adhesive or sealant on when I replace the parts with the new stuff? |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Monday, August 01, 2016 - 09:16 am: |
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I bought some purple power spray degreaser and cleaner, so hopefully after replacing PCV stuff I can give everything a spray and wipe down and give it a go. Then after riding I can take a look at if there is any oil coming from anywhere.
It looks like the pig spit is meant to be used after a degreaser and a wipe down, so while I am excited to give it a shot, figured I would buy the cheapish purple power which I have used with cars before and save the pig spit until I hopefully have minimal oil leakage. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 02, 2016 - 12:25 am: |
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Pig spit is user friendly and as long as the engine isn't covered in grease you're fine. It's not a cleaner, but dry black wrinkle paint blackens and brightens right up, even if it's dirty brown. Really simple to use.
Pull the PCV valve out first. Then pull the grommet out. If it's hard and brittle (probably won't be brittle), just be careful with it. You can also stuff a cloth rage through the hole to catch any debris, but that will take some patience. I don't think it will be that much trouble. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Monday, August 08, 2016 - 08:47 am: |
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Hey guys,
So I replaced the valve and grommet with parts from harley. Looks like everything went well, as I drove to work today and didn't see any smoke and no oil on my pant leg or anything.
I also did the reroute of the hose. I found the T that branches into the airbox (which I am super surprised with, it is literally a massive box that supports the cone filter....... why is it so massive??) and disconnected part of the tubing that shoots back into the mouth of the carb. Let me know if this looks good. Also, is the cone filter just supposed to sit in the airbox, or is it supposed to be supported or over anything.....
I also removed the plug from the breather near the oil drain tube, so now that is open ended. Luckily, I am seeing no oil spew out of the hose upon startup!! Does that look like it'll work out alright? I tried to get rid of that entire branch of the hose so that I bipassed the airbox completely, but the hose didn't really want to pull out of the airbox...
Additionally, did another clutch adjustment, primary oil change, and primary chain adjustment because my dad took it for a spin and said it was really clunking into gear, and it sounded like the primary chain was a little loose. Seems to be running ok now!
Quick question though, I added some oil then took the bike for a test ride. When I came back it looked like the bike needed oil so I added some. I know that between the two lines on the dipstick is 8 ounces, but because the oil that I am adding in isn't hot, it won't be fully expanded correct? So if I add in oil to where it reaches the fill line, then once I ride the bike again and it reaches operating temp, the oil will be above that line correct? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2016 - 11:52 pm: |
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Don't worry about how hot the oil you put in is, just that the bike is hot and you check it immediately upon shut down.
Hose looks fine, but I'd cut it off.
The airbox is all about airflow. The bigger the box the better, the bigger the filter the better, as cuts down on restriction and the Blast box is designed for flow (among other things). That's the short story. When it comes to filters (and the carb mouth) think about a jar with bugs it it. If the jar is open, they live. Cap the jar they die. Poke one hole, a few might live. Poke many holes a lot might live. Imagine you attach a basketball to the top of the jar and poke it thoroughly with holes. MUCH better airflow, almost unrestricted, they don't even know they're in a jar!
that either makes sense or you think I'm nuts!
The PCV sucks air when you start the bike. As soon as it starts, it blows out air. The filter some people put on the end is only needed at start up to prevent dirt being sucked into the engine. Not much to worry about unless you park in dirt or ride a lot in dirt or run the hose to a dirt probe area on the bike. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2016 - 08:55 am: |
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Interesting, thanks for the explanation on the airbox and carb. Suprising that does make a lot of sense ahaha.
So tried to log on and post yesterday, but it seemed that the site was down... but on my ride home from work on Monday was less than stellar.
I was optimistic after my ride to work and after I posted, but the ride home showed I am not finished... It seems like my Blast doesn't have the range that I would expect it to have. From a stop, I will drop the bike into first, take off from the line and will get up to 10mph quickly, but at 15 mph it sounds like it is really high in the rpm range. I cand push it past 15mph, but probably by like 20mph it sounds like it begs me to shift. Second gear same thing, around 25mph or 30mph, it sounds like a high rpm and wants to shift. At 35 to 45mph it sounds like it wants 4th, then it asks for 5th around 50. I am unfamiliar wiht how the thumper sound is supposed to go, and I know people say that the stock exhaust setup lacks a lot of the low end sound, but I was wondering what mph and gear relation is to be expected with a stock blast.
Also, not sure if my speedometer is reporting the right speeds, so maybe I am just going faster than my speedometer is saying and thats why the "shift-now" speed seems off to me. Anyway to test this aside from riding along side a buddy? Even still, the range I am getting seems off. rpms seem to be in a reasonable range right when I shift, but after accelerating a bit it seems like my rpms increase exponentially with my speed.
Also, after the highway portion of my ride home, I hit the Boston street traffic. After sitting still at a couple of lights in the 90 degree weather, I think I see some smoke coming from the front of the bike. My thought, maybe I am at the end of the oil?? Couple more lights, and quite a bit of smoke each time I stop, I get home and turn off the bike and check the oil. Dipstick still has about oil about 1/3 of the way up. But with the bike turned off, just sitting there, lot of smoke coming from the front of the bike, and looking like the front right of the bike. I hope to take the gas tank off again to take a look to see if there is a bunch of oil there, but are there any other ideas???? Is this weather too hot for the blast to sit at lights? The bike would not be very good if it wasn't able to handle some traffic during peak riding season, so I have no idea what it could be.
So yeah, my problems/questions now:
-speedometer/rpm range within each gear
-good amount of smoke from front of bike (engine) at stoplights and after bike is powered down. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2016 - 10:57 am: |
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It sounds like your clutch is slipping, badly and that smoke might be from it (might, not saying it is).
Check your adjustment. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2016 - 10:59 am: |
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It can handle lots of heat, provided it's running properly. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2016 - 12:25 pm: |
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Hmmm I just adjusted it and it was feeling good I thought. Most time that I sit at lights I sit in neutral. Would this still point to the possibility of a slipping clutch? The fact that there isn't much for specs on the clutch adjustment makes things a little difficult to make sure that everything is correct.
I have about 1/8" play if you pull on the cable between the clutch lever housing and cabel, and it doesnt lurch forward when I release the lever... |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2016 - 01:58 am: |
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Check that exhaust is bolted on at head mounting.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, August 12, 2016 - 02:12 am: |
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If the clutch isn't adjusted correctly at the primary cover, free play at the hand lever won't matter.
If you're hitting the rev limiter or 'topping out' at 15mph in first gear, there is only one real possibility: your clutch is slipping. All other choices are remote possibilities and since this started since you adjusted the clutch then, well.....
An overheated clutch can smoke. It might be the exhaust or oil residue, but fix the clutch asap. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Friday, August 12, 2016 - 08:45 am: |
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I adjusted the clutch as it says in the manual, taking the spring nut off of the adjustment screw, turning just until I feel any tension at all, then backing off a quarter of a turn. Are you supposed to screw the adjustment screw all the way in? I'm not doing that, but the instructions of "until you feel resistance" is pretty ambiguous for a manual... Aside from that, my clutch line looked just like how it is pictured in the manual, with the cable running to a piece that is just off of 6 oclock, as pictured
How much should the bike clunk into gear when adjusted correctly? I feel like I had it adjusted, but anytime I dropped the bike into gear, it would grind as I was pushing the shifter into first and then clunk as it bottomed out. Then, as I let the clutch out to take off from a stop it would ease into moving then immediately drop the clutchh and take off once the clutch was all the way off. The way I adjusted it now, as I release the clutch, the bike is slowly responding and doesn't lurch into being all out engaged, so I thought I had it adjusted to be better. It also isn't as noisey when dropping into first from nuetral.
I guess, any tips on how to perform the adjustment so that it is correct? I was using the manual and the video linked below for reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkfm6sAbuHs |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, August 12, 2016 - 01:18 pm: |
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If it's soft and not lurching it's adjusted wrong!
I dont have a repair manual with me so it's difficult to figure out where you went wrong, but:
Loosen the clutch cable all the way first.
Resistance is exactly that. You screw it in until you feel any resistance. If in doubt, go a little more and you'll really feel it tighten up. Back it off and screw in again until you just feel it start to resist-that fine line between loose and resistance.
After you think you've gotten the screw right, put the clutch cover back on. You can run into problems trying to adjust the rest with the cover still off (they do all basically look and adjust the same, but can be a little different between engines).
Since you've been slipping your clutch, it might need another adjustment again after you've gotten it right.
It's not uncommon to do it over and over until you get it right-IE: actually learn how to do it right and feel it's right. It is somewhat subjective, yes, but you are way off on something. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 - 09:01 am: |
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So when I pull in the clutch lever and put the gear bike into first, it whould kinda grind and snap into gear?! I adjusted that out because it sounded like something that would do damage (to the gearteeth or something). With it sounding not very smooth it seems like that noise would be an indication of something damaging.
Also, do you believe that hitting my rev limits early is due to the clutch adjustment, or more likely due to primary adjustment.
I did tighten up the clutch cable more than I have previously to try and smooth out the shifting into first issue. I think my actual clutch adjustment at the screw is correct. Would my adjustment to the cable cause the clutch to slip? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 - 12:35 pm: |
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Clutch cable or screw adjustment will cause it to slip, but i can almost guarantee the screw adjustment is wrong, especially if you have free play at the hand lever and the clutch is slipping.
It shouldn't crunch or clunk into gear. It shouldn't just glide into gear either and on take off. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 - 12:36 pm: |
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Clunk is more normal when cold. |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2016 - 01:17 pm: |
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So I broke down after all of this and took it to a shop. They had a guy there that used to own a Blast, so he was experienced with working on them.
They opened up the clutch and didn't see anything really wrong there. While it was there, they properly adjusted the clutch and primary chain, as well as swapped out the primary oil again. Also, a shifter pawl adjustment was done.
The bike still has a slipping sound in first gear sometimes, but all other gears are fine. Towards the end of my commute home, as I would sit at lights the bike would idle slower and slower, eventaully almost choking itself dead. I would have to rev the bike to save it from dying on me. At the very end of my commute, I had to do this three or so times at each red light (city lights, so they are kinda long).
Additionally, both when I wheeled into work and when I got home, as I found neutral and put the stand down, the bike would die. No smoke or anything during my rides, and no oil leak (looks like the PCV valve swap did the trick there). I did check the oil after it died in my work parking lot and there was just a little bit on the dipstick, so I put in the correct amount. Upon returning home, when the bike died I checked again, but the oil was at the proper level I had filled it to. Makes me think it isn't oil related, but I have no idea what it could be.
Any ideas? As far as the slippage sound that occasionally comes up in the higher rpms of first gear, they said that is most likely a transmission thing, and no way to really know until the transmission is taken apart which is pricey.
Right now my main concerns are:
- bike idle slowing and almost choking bike dead at stops
- bike dying at the end of my rides |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2016 - 01:15 pm: |
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By the looks of the the boot issue description listed on the main page for the diagnosing problems thread, it wouldn't be the boot. It is listed that if it was a boot issue, it would die when I roll on the throttle, not the other way around... no clue what is going on |
Wrightd223
| | Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 06:15 pm: |
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Thinking I might toss the bike on craigslist soon. Entertain offers now, but I bet I will get the highest offers when the new season starts up next spring. Seems like this bike and I just weren't meant to be. It has been giving me a bunch of minor problems that wouldn't be a big deal for a seasoned mechanic or rider, but for a newbie like me it just won't run right... I am kinda big for it anyways, so hoping maybe I can cover what I payed for it seeing as I got what I think was a really good deal for it, plus the repairs that have been done to it. Then look to try again next season with something else...
Until then, I guess I will still try and figure out why it is sputtering out on me at idle to maximize what I can get for it. |
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