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Jeter63
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2002 buell blast isn't running properly. I recently replaced the ignition module and spark plug, checked the float in the carburetor for proper functionality, and the fuel tank petcock for proper flow. Everything seems to be correct on it but the bike will turn on and idol normally, and I can hop on it and ride about 40-50 yards and it will die and will not restart until about an hour later. The gas tank vent isn't clogged. Every now and then it will backfire, but the timing is correct. "Das boot" where my carb connects to intake is good as well. My thought is cdi. But I wanted to get other opinions. Any help or ideas would be appreciated!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have the ignition module you replaced? Swap it back (did replacing it change anything?). There is no "CDI". The ignition module is it.
When it does die, pull the timing cover and see if the LED flashes. No flash, no spark. But it's important to know if it flashes.
More than likely it's a safety switch failure. Kickstand or BAS Bank Angle Sensor.

Did it ever run right for you?
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Jeter63
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It ran good for 6-7 months, the small timing cover plate fell off got some water in it and the old ignition module went out. The new on is definately working right, like you said, I made sure the timing light is flashing correctly. It has never had a kickstand killswitch that I know of. And what does the bank angle sensor do? I am getting proper gas flow, and from what I can tell the coil works properly. Do you think.. Maybe it's a compression issue? I do not have a tester on hand.
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Marksblast
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the 'exact' same thing happen to me.
Just the way you described it...
It was my Bank Angle Sensor. A very easy fix. 12.50 part of eBay.

Or one of the other safety's Kickstand or Clutch.
Thanks to Gearheaderiko, many thanks. That was it.
I was looking deeper into the issue than necessary.

Just my 2 cents.
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Jeter63
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well there is a pattern here so it's worth a 13$ shot lol thanks guys. I'll keep ya updated
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Jeter63
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well if anyone can source one I'd love a link I could go to for purchase. I can not seem to find one.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 07:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can just bypass it. One hot wire, 2 grounds.
The hot wire goes nowhere. Isolate it and tape it up well.
The other 2 wires get connected together.
Bypassed!

I know that doesn't make sense. The hot wire powers the ground switch (it's a"smart switch"). It has a tiny circuit board inside and won't re-ground until the bike is turned off and on again. Once the grounds are connected, you know longer need to power the switch.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your bike does have a kickstand safety switch (or used too). The connector is right around where the shock and swing arm meet. The switch is in the kickstand. To bypass that, connect the 2 wires together.
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Jeter63
Posted on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay another question, seemingly stupid but I do not have a voltage meter. Which of the three on the bas are the neutral, (white with black strip, green with yellow strip, green with blue strip) I assume it's the two green with accessory stripes but I want to confirm.
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Jeter63
Posted on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, bas sensor bypassed, kickstand sensor bypassed. And it started, idoled for about a minute, started to die. I gave it some throttle and it stayed alive for a couple minutes and then it just died and won't restart again. If I give it an hour or two I can go out there and it'll start back up and do the same thing. So my issue is with something else, and I don't know what, there's no drain screw on the bottom of the carb so I have no idea if there is any gas in there when it dies.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What does the ignition module LED do when you try and re start it immediately after it dies?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS buy yourself a test light. You rarely need to know exact voltage. All you mostly ever need to know is if you have voltage. Much easier to use and more reliable than a cheap meter.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not a compression issue either. You'd have a really hard time starting it cold if you did.

Starting fluid (ether) is handy to have. If it is a fuel issue, it will fire right up with a shot of starting fluid.

The symptoms do mimick a clogged slow/pilot jet. Starts and runs until the auto "choke" comes off.
A new #45 slow jet should always be used instead if the stock #42 anyway.

But we need to check LED and spark at the plug before you do anything else.
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Jeter63
Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, I'll post again tomorrow with details about the ignition module and go from there.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS please don't take the carb apart "to give it a good cleaning". It doesn't need it.

It's not a California model is it?
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