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Majorlycuhdols
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Background: So, I bought an '07 Blast a little over a month ago, almost new. 3,200 miles on it and completely stock. The bike used to be used by the Rider's Edge program in Asheboro until about 3,000 miles. Got it, changed the oil.
Noticed the bike was running rich (pulled the spark plug after a 40 mile ride). Found out the primary chain was overtightened (was new to the bike and didn't know the squeaking should not be there). Now the bike runs slightly lean (adjusted the idle speed and idle mix screws very slightly after 20-30min rides). I have not checked the plugs after holding the throttle at locations to check how the plug looks at higher throttle positions. Gasket and inner plastic bracket of the airbox to the carb needs to be replaced (someone overtightened screws and used wrong gasket). Ran Sea Foam and 95 octane through the carb to see if anything was plugged. Now at about 3,500 miles after adjusting and feeling confident with it for commute travel.

As far as I know, everything on the bike is stock. I drilled the plug to get to the idle mix screw on the carb and everything was grimy/dirty where people might wipe a clean like replacing a part.

But here's my problem: ~50mpg while traveling at a constant 75-80mph (no hard acceleration to speak of). Less accurate measure, ran about the same efficiency toying around on back roads between 45-60 in top gear.
This wouldn't be a problem if my commute wasn't to the point of "if I get stuck in traffic, I will have to flip to reserve at night next to 75mph cars whizzing by" along with "I will have to get gas each time I go to school."

What do I need to check/adjust/replace? (Lists of ideas are helpful for me to go through systematically)
Or am I asking too much of the engine to give better range while cruising at 75mph?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Run premium gas all the time. How much do you weigh?
Richening the mixture decrease mpg. 75mph is a little on the fast side for optimum mpg (only a little though).
Are you sure the carb has never been rejetted? The fact that someone had the air box off, leads me to believe it's been tampered with.
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Majorlycuhdols
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With my bag for school, about 165lb.
It might have been rejetted, haven't taken the bowl off the carb to actually check.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much oil did you use for the oil change? What weight? Synthetic?
Chain still might be too tight, what method dos you use for adjustment?
Stock original plug? If so, change it. 7 years is too old. Denso's are very good, but there's also another plug that's reportedly better, but very pricey (I think??).
Realistically you should run it a few more tanks to get a better view of mpg.
A better exhaust will get you more mpg. But 70mpg used to be stock mpg. Gas isn't as good now. :-/
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Majorlycuhdols
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1.5qt synthetic 20w40 (don't remember brand off-hand and might be a little low right now, actually)
Loosed primary by backing off the adjustment bolt about 1 full turn from where squeaking stopped and tightened the lock nut to keep it from moving.
Not sure if the plug is original. What information can you give on replacement plugs? (spark plugs are not something I know much about)
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's too tight on the primary. Go out 15-18 flats or so from that "squeaky point". Better yet, warm it up, loosen it until it starts making the clunky noise, and then tighten it until that noise stops....that's a better point for the chain.

Recommend Brisk spark plug (check BRO online for that discussion). BOR10LGS is a great choice for a relatively stock engine.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There you have it! Go with the Brisk or Denso plugs.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2015 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS your oil level is probably fine. I just wanted to make sure you didn't overfill it.
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Majorlycuhdols
Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good news everyone! Muffler broke. Obviously if I get better performance and/or fuel mileage from something that's better than stock, it would be preferred.... anyone have information as to what to look for and what might need to be adjusted after changing it?

Thank you, everyone for all the help, by the way.

Edit: so, while looking at most exhausts (such as Vance & Hines SS2-R, they all seem to be for '00-'06. Anyone know if the exhaust manifold actually changed from '06-'07 or if this would be completely fine to use?

(Message edited by MajorlyCuhdols on February 01, 2015)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2015 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All years of Blast are virtually identical, very little changed and with very rare exception, all parts are interchangeable. What fits one, fit all!

Jardine is the pick of the (very limited) litter. Followed by the D&D or V&H. If you never do any engine mods, then the choice is up to you.

You might need to change jetting, depending on how it runs, if mpg is your goal. If your goal is strictly power, then a jetting change is a must.
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Majorlycuhdols
Posted on Friday, March 20, 2015 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Extremely late update with some good news and bad news.
Things I've changed: V&H exhaust, changed jets to recommended sizes as posted several places on here, flipped the diode for the clutch safety switch, new air filter, loosened the primary adjuster even more (still haven't heard the "box of rocks" sound people claim).
Put about ~600 miles on the bike since the last post. Still averaging about 50-55mpg while cruising at 70mph for my 80mile rounds.

But my main reason for adding a new post: Neutral light no longer works as of 5 days ago. It stopped working after I rolled in from the last ride from my university. So, I cannot leave it sitting on the kickstand to warm up while putting on my helmet and such.

Also, today I learned that for some reason, my bike has a kickstand safety switch. Tested and found out I cannot start the bike with the kickstand down while it's reading in gear (even though it's in neutral and was rolling it around the garage to be sure).
1.) How hard would it be to diagnose and fix the neutral light? (would be nice to sit at some of the longer lights I have with stopped traffic without holding the clutch for 7+min)

2.) Any ideas entailing how to increase the fuel range? (tank bag with a small jug of gas in it and plumbing through the breather tube or more possibilities of increasing economy)

Quick edit: got to a single wire coming from the neutral switch, reads as an open with the bike in neutral or not (multimeter to read resistance between wire and frame). So, either the neutral switch isn't functional or not sitting in a location to read that the bike is in neutral, correct?

(Message edited by MajorlyCuhdols on March 20, 2015)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Correct.
The kickstand can't be down if the bike is in gear and the clutch let out. Those 3 safety switches work together. Bypass one or two and your good to do whatever you want (that includes starting in gear with the clutch out and riding with the kickstand down-both bad). But bikes came for years and until recently many bikes still didn't have them.
Neutral safety switch is bad, loose or engagement point is loose/maladjusted (as you surmised).
To bypass the kickstand safety switch, connect the 2 wires going to the switch together (completing the circuit).
The clutch safety switch diode can be flipped, which bypasses that safety feature.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch Diode safety switch link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What jets are you running?
For extra fuel:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CEPOB2/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_3_14?colid=3CWLRM1E7SY14&coliid=I1UVPNHWDOLT8S&vs=1
They come in a variety of sizes.




Or add an auxiliary tank to the back or where the air box is!
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Majorlycuhdols
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jets: 45 / 170 (have larger jets in case I change my mind or when I go to mountains later this year)

Carrying a fuel bottle might be a good enough solution when I start riding farther distance... hmmm... if only the bike didn't have a big square tube frame and could just strap a 3 or 4gal tank on it for the longer distances I have planned to do on it....

I do have the clutch diode flipped as in that post so that it doesn't cause issues. But I want to know whether/how to fix the neutral switch. It's nice to have that still functional if I ever want to sell the bike.

Seems like in the manual, I can replace the switch by only removing the front sprocket.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bigger tanks can be fit. The Blast isn't the only bike with a wide frame. I think the problem may be more in length (and looks!).
Your jets are seemingly optimum for good mpg (without actually tuning the bike to a dangerous lean level).
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