| Author | Message | ||
     Squadronroe |
I've got a couple of problems I'm trying to troubleshoot a bit before I get it to a garage for some TLC. It's a 2010 Blast, with ~1000 miles on it. Before I bought it was a trainer, so I'm pretty sure it's got some wear and tear that I haven't seen yet. First problem is that when I start it up, it will crank just fine and fun just fine in neutral, but as soon as I let the clutch out it will die in a couple of seconds. Not slow down and die, just die. Second problem is that it's really hard to get down to 1st gear sometimes when I'm coming to a stop. This has led to a couple of slow starts as I belatedly realize the bike is in 2nd gear. Third problem is that when I let the clutch out as I'm accelerating away, I hear a squealing sound. It sounds like I'm peeling off, but I'm definitely not peeling off. Fourth problem is that when the bike is warming up, it tends to misfire a lot. Any ideas? | ||
| Nimbly |
As I'm sure you know, when trying to diagnose issues like these always fix the cheapest/free stuff first. Backfires could be jetting issues, intake boot leak (OEM boot available from H-D cheap), ignition module (from H-D not cheap), bunch of stuff. Maybe start by cleaning the carb, a lot of those trainer bikes do a lot of sitting. A failing ignition will cause misfires when the bike is hot generally. The shifting and clutching issues sound like maybe a maladjusted primary chain tension and clutch. Dying when you let the clutch out may be the kickstand or clutch switch. The bike thinks the stand is down so it will kill itself rather than letting you ride off with the stand down. From what I understand you can check the switch theory by reversing the polarity of the center diode in your fuse block. In any case, adjusting stuff is free, and you can download the service manual here free. (Yay) http://www.craigerson.com/buell-blast-service-manu al/ | ||
| Nimbly |
Oh and always use the highest octane gas you can in your area. | ||
| Squadronroe |
Thanks, I doubt it's an ignition problem. The bike runs beautifully and smoothly (well, as smooth as a thumper gets) once it warms up after 5-10 minutes of riding. I think you're probably right about the clutch or kickstand switch. Interestingly enough I've never had the bike die when I put the kickstand down (in fact I've been letting the bike warm up by letting it sit in neutral [AFTER MAKING SURE IT'S NOT IN GEAR] for awhile, kickstand down), but I can easily test that and see if there's some sort of switch I'm missing. It could be very simple. I'll go ahead and replace the intake boot when I get a chance, it sounds like that's a really simple thing to do and is probably needed at this point anyway. I'll also run some more carb cleaner through, I'm not really looking forward to having to take the carb apart. | ||
| Copper1 |
Do NOT take the carb apart! That is a recipe for disaster , just saying . | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
THANK YOU Copper 1! Yes, please, please, please do not take the carb apart "to give it a good cleaning". It rarely ever needs this (never ever) and almost always leads to problems. You do need to change the slow jet to a number 45 (stock part for many Harley models) and turn the idle MIXTURE screw out 2 1/2 turns (you'll need to first very very carefully remove the EPA anti-tampering plug). Thank you again Copper 1 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Clutch Diode - middle diode - Flip - link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html | ||
| Squadronroe |
Don't worry, I wasn't in a hurry to take it apart and hearing that this leads to disaster means I won't ever do it. I'll just run more carb cleaner through it! | ||
| Nimbly |
Taking the carb apart isn't as bad as you might think. I've had to get into mine a few times. If the bike came from where you are trying to ride it, it is probably not necessary, but if you say bought the bike in Colorado and want to ride in at sea level, you'll have to rejet it. There are some good how to videos on youtube. A vacuum leak will make your bike backfire and run awful if it runs at all. If the switches function correctly, letting the clutch out while in gear with the stand down will kill the bike. If there is something wrong and the bike thinks the stand is down it will die. Sounds like what you describe. Do a search about diodes, there is a post here somewhere about how to bypass the switches that way. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It's got 1000 miles on it. All Blasts are jetted the same. It's not that sensitive to jetting, but like all Harley's the slow jet and idle is EPA mandate lean. Bump it up from the stock 42 to a 45 and turn the idle mixture screw out and many problems go away. The CV is simple. Very simple. It's a 2010 with 1000 miles on it. It's not dirty. The pilot/slow jet might be clogged at worst, but that doesn't seem to really be his problem. It needs to be changed to a #45 anyway. But most importantly, besides the carb not needing cleaning, and that "give the carb a good cleaning" literally translates to "I don't know what's wrong, but I hope that helps", I've been on this forum over 11 years now and I can't count how many times problems have been caused by people needlessly taking their carb apart, many times because someone told them to "give it a good cleaning" and created more problems for themselves. We've spent literally hundreds of hours trying to figure out where they went wrong, what part fell out, what jet kits got mixed up, what parts got left out, float maladjustments, etc. Not to mention how many hours we've spent trying to figure out a problem, then they finally tell us they took the carb apart and bang, we know what it is right away. Yes, it's a very simple carb that's been f'd up many many times, even to the point of having to be thrown away. If it's not broke, don't fix it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS I posted the clutch diode link. | ||
| Squadronroe |
Yeah no worries, I'm not taking the carb apart. I'll do the adjustments you mention, it sounds like those might be good adjustments anyway to get a little more power out of the bike. Is changing the slow jet an easy thing to do? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. Provided you have some mechanical aptitude. You'll have to remove the air box to gain access to the carb. Not hard, but a little time consuming. And you'll need new or good quality screwdrivers-you don't want to risk stripping a carb screw! | ||
| Squadronroe |
I've got some good quality tools and have done some mechanical work in the past, I'll give it a shot. I'll read up on it while I'm waiting for the part to arrive. This is what I want, right? http://www.cv-performance.com/harley-pilot-jet/ | ||
| Bueller_bueller |
I'd be interested in the group's response to Squadronroe's 3rd problem, as my son's Blast has the same issue and I'm stumped... "Third problem is that when I let the clutch out as I'm accelerating away, I hear a squealing sound. It sounds like I'm peeling off, but I'm definitely not peeling off." I know the friction zone on the Blast is narrow. Thoughts please? | ||
| Squadronroe |
At this rate I'm just taking it as a feature. You get to feel like you're really tearing up the pavement without all that pesky tire wear! | ||
| Squadronroe |
So it turned out that the problem I had with the engine dying after I let the clutch out was the kickstand sensor. Wow, I feel like an absolute moron. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not a moron, it happens and it's common. And it's an easy fix. Join the 2 wires together and its bypassed! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, that cv jet is what you need and a great price! You'll do fine changing it. Just be patient and slow and it won't take long at all. Pulling the airbox is most of the work. |
