| Author | Message | ||
     Jong |
I bought an 03 blast with 3000 miles that had been sitting for over a year. When I got the bike it wouldn't start. I Drained and replaced gas with 93 octane and seafoam. Changed plug, new boot, rejet to a 45 slow jet, new plug. I'm having a consistent problem with cold start. The bike runs really great once started and warm. What's next? What's left? Automatic enricher? Thanks, JG | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, I wish I had an answer, but I don't. I would pull the points/timing cover and be sure the LED is flashing when you try to start it. (Possible module issue) You can disconnect the TPS/'Choke' wiring plug and see if that makes a difference. (More choke may enable better starting) You can crack open the has cap and see if that makes a difference. (Possible vent issue) Blasts are notorious for hard warm starting. Above was a brief synopsis of what to try and why. Don't play with the throttle while starting ("pumping" it won't help). Sometimes slightly opening the throttle will help. What youve already done usually diminishes your problem significantly. How old is the spark plug? Those are just the things I'd check. I don't have a better direction to send you in  I haven't used a Blast carb or ignition in a long time and I don't have any starting problems. That also means I have little experience in how a stock Blast starts when hot. Again, sorry for the delayed reply, but I was hoping for a better, more conclusive answer. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
{is the plug gap correct and does the wire fit well. Is the nipple tight - if it has the screw on type-some plugs don't} | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, I read so many posts I get confused. For a cold start you should be good. The A/E does seem like a likely place to look at replacing. You can unplug the wiring harness to the carb and see what happens. If the AE is still working your bike will start to 'choke up' as it warms up and "lope" at idle. If that never happens you know your AE isnt working. Do you still have the stock exhaust? I would still consider shimming the needle. That will also improve starting and midrange running. | ||
| Jong |
Ok, I think I have the problem solved. I replaced everything and read every post on the interwebs, but in the end I popped the bottom of the carb off again, removed the slow jet and discovered there was an obstruction that a little air was able to fix. It started up perfectly after that. I had been running sea foam but whatever was clogging the port was impervious to it. I really like this little bike. It's fun. I'm going to punch the next person I see that turns their nose up and calls it a starter bike(I'm not really the violent sort). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yeah, well "those people" couldnt keep up with the guys that raced Blasts, no matter what they are riding! Glad you got it all fixed  | ||
| Blueblast |
Just smile, tell them "yeah, it's just a 'starter bike' and laugh as you ride away A better, more appropriate name was never assigned to a motorcycle!  | ||
| Hooligan |
I too have a Blast that has been sitting for 3 years bone stock, like the rest of you it will not start cold, I took the carb apart and flushed out the gunk that was in there, I drilled out the "plug" and cleaned out all of the passageways, and jets. I checked the flow of the petcock and made sure it has fresh gas in it. Both good. The spark is strong and the red LED is flashing when the bike wheels over. It will fire up when I put my hand over the intake or I put the can to it. A couple of questions I have for those in the know, my AE appears to only withdraw enough to expose 1/2 of the hole looking into the hole on the intake side, it does with 12vDC applies "close" my question is should it be fully open when it is cold? I have a few splits in the boot but nothing that is obviously "thru". I drilled out the idle jet and turned it out 2.5 turns. No real difference. I will replace the 42 low speed jet with a 45 asap. GEARHEAD you mentioned shimming the needle, how much is a good amount? .010, .020???? let me know I am at the end of my rope, I HATE putting the can to any engine. | ||
| Ezblast |
Replace boot. Das Boot!!!!! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur!!!!!! If you can actually see damage to the boot, it's long past time to replace it (even if it wasn't actually leaking-it's a time bomb). AE fully chokes without any voltage. Unplug it and see how it runs. But change the boot first. Then change the slow jet to a #45. . I haven't actually looked at the function of the AE through the carb, but it has been posted here. I haven't run a stock carb in years due too A) Racing B) not running a stock ignition C) direct replacement performance ignition no longer available. 2 #4 washers, available at an R/C hobby shop. That will be "close enough". At that point you should add or subtract washers to see if it will run better (if you are willing to put in the time-same goes for the jetting and timing. We get you close enough). |
