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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2013 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks about normal. That doesn't mean the adjustment is perfect, but you are in the normal range.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2013 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's good to know - thank you...
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could be looser!
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or tighter. The point is if its closed all the way down, thats bad. If there's 3/4" between the lock nut and bolt head, thats bad too. The picture is in the normal range of adjustment-the point isnt to say its correct, but the average new Blaster isnt going to know what an adjustment should look like.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Vicenzajay: Do you have a repair manual? If not, get one, but I think you have one.

The transmission vent hose (filler tube!!!): Right in the middle of the top of the engine crankcase, right in front of the starter. It runs up along the left side frame under the seat. It is unplugged. It will pull right out and push right back in when you're done.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 02:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

okay....I'll look for the vent hose a bit harder. I've read the "left side frame" description, but haven't had luck actually finding it.

I'll report back as I'd really like to get that fluid changed out this weekend.

Can I get a description of what type of torque wrench, how to use it, and the 1,2,3 of how to adjust the chain? I really am nervous about messing it up, but I have an idea that it could be better adjusted than it is right now. I need details like which nut to loosen first - how to to the adjustment - how to work both bolts to finish the adjustment. You get the idea - I'm just really illiterate with how to work in this arena (but I'm learning as fast as I can)!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll do what I can when I get a chance to use a computer. Most of the time I'm on my iPhone and it can be daunting to write a detailed procedure (especially when the chance I'll lose what I've written due to getting a call or text or....).
You can PM with questions if you wish, rather than always posting here.
All the information is here, but i know it can be difficult to locate.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I appreciate it - and I'll try the pm thing this weekend as well.

If you do normally work from an iphone, maybe you could post a picture of the vent (filler) hose in some way? I think that will get me to the right hose faster than anything...

Jay
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took pictures and tried to post them yesterday, but for some unknown reason I couldn't shrink them down as I normally do. PM your email address or text number and I'll send you the pics. I posted them on Badweb a few months ago too, but I couldn't find them.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the pictures - will try to locate the hose outlet today and change that oil....

Then would really like to get the chain right. I'm feeling an "upper limit" in each gear that's well below what is reported in this forum....
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Need quick help! I'm trying to buy a torque wrench and some socket heads to do the primary chain thing - but I don't know whether the hex bolt is metric or standard.

Help!
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hose outlet was a BEAR to find...even with the picture. Whoever owned this bike routed the crankcase breather alongside everything else on the right side u clamp!

Tracing that hose through the middle of the bike was not fun....took over an hour.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 12:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got both jobs done today. Gotta say that changing the primary oil through the vent hose is a massive pain. For new riders (like me) please count on taking about an hour to get a quart of oil through a small funnel into the vent hose. Then figure on having at least another person to make sure the bike is stabilized while you do it (unless you have a stand or something to hold it vertical and at a good angle to get the oil to drain into the crankcase.

Next - finding a torque wrench that goes down to 24 inch pounds is very tough. I'd love some suggestions for what models are good to buy online, btw. I used the sound method and my chain was definitely too tight. Motorcycle runs better now without an artificial "wall" towards the top of each gear.

All in all I know that maintainers find doing all their Blast maintenance easy. For newer folks, like me, please count on a large learning curve and some frustrating moments!

Thanks to Eric and EZ for the information to help me get this far. Again - would love some suggestions on the torque wrench. I need to order a good one and actually adjust this chain the correct way.
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Blasted77
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bought a blast, but belt is not all the way on the rear pulley.

I did a search, and saw a few other people had this problem, but I did not see any solutions.

My belt is running flush against the plastic pulley guard. This means about 1/4" of the belt is not even on the pulley. Is this normal, or should I be expecting the belt to break early? Oh, about 4,500 miles on the bike.

thanks!
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Kenny_gilgore
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is jack that is used to lift the front wheel or rear wheel of the sports bikes adaptable to the Blast?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes. They can be had cheap at Harbor Fright, Cycle Gear, T-Rex and..... Jardine makes a nice folding rear one. The best front ones can pick up from the axle or under the frame neck.

You can take measurements or post what you find here and (hopefully) someone here will have the same and can tell you if it works.

I have the Jardine (rear), T-Rex (convertible front) and Harbor Fright (front and rear-same stand, different adapters). They are all a few years old, so I dont know whats currently available.

Avoid "Spool" stands. You'll have to buy and attach spools to the swingarm. Not a good choice.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Somewhat normal on the belt. There isnt any adjustment. It can be adjusted, but I wouldnt bother unless you actually experience premature belt failure.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bike doesnt need to be level to get all the oil into the crankcase. Since you're using the vent tube to add the oil, there isnt anyway for the crankcase to vent, so its going to be slow. You can crack the clutch cover to vent, but then you run the risk of ruining the seal (or stripping the bolts). Its still a lot easier and faster than pulling the y-frame!!!

Craftsmen 25 - 250 inch lbs torque wrench will work. It can go to 24 inch lbs (and I've verified the accuracy). Couple that with the by ear method and you cant get a better adjustment.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just a shout out for Erik here....he has been MAGNIFICENT with helping out over the last week or so as I try to sort things out on the bike.

Thanks, Erik!!!
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah - the only reason we needed to get the bike level (actually ramp up the rear wheel) was due to my vent hose being routed differently than what seems the norm. Someone had routed my hose all over the place - placing several 90 degree turns and limiting the vertical direction of travel of the hose.

We wound up having to get the bike vertical and, in fact, leaned a bit to the right in order to help the vent hose "take" the oil well.

My case was special - thus a very, very long time getting the oil into the tranny case.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay - ride report....went on a 13-14 mile ride with speeds from very slow to about 70 mph...

and:

wait for it:


Everything worked great! Shifting is much smoother and quieter, bike is peppy and responsive. Still think the chain could be a couple of flats looser perhaps, but I'll check that when the nice torque wrench comes in the mail.

Thanks again Erik and all - I'm really hoping that was the end of the "catch this bike up on maintenance and fluids, etc. I'm looking forward to just enjoying it for a bit!

Jay
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 05:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Service manual really doesn't address these questions, by the way (or at least I can't find it) - so I'll ask them here:

1. What's the periodicity of changing the primary/tranny oil?

2. Engine oil? (Assuming all synthetic)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Page 1-5, table 1-1. "Regular maintenance intervals.

Being that it only takes 1.5 qts engine, 1 qt trans, I'd still change them both every 5000 miles despite them being synthetic. The service manual indicates either 2500 for severe service or every 5000 miles for engine oil. I'd err on the side of caution and do it every 2500 miles (which is the common practice.

Happy to help.
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Blasted77
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the response about the belt. I checked today, and it has a good 1" to 1.5" of play. I ordered a new one to carry until this one breaks.

If I were to adjust it, what could I do?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'd have to shim out the pulley or space the wheel over by adding and cutting spacers.
Neither of which I think you need to do and I wouldn't waste my time (unless there was actually a problem).

Belt play is 'normal'. They just aren't that tight.
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another "new guy" question - does anyone have a good suggestion for an inexpensive set of rear turn signals...something that looks like it fits the bike, but perhaps with a bit less of a profile.

My current OEM ones are being held on by duct tape and then dressed with electrical tape (for the posts) - it actually looks okay (wonder if anyone's noticed them in my pictures :-) ) However, I eventually need to replace them, and I'd like to not spend $40 bucks a pair - which seems like the going rate for OEM turn signals.

Cheers and thanks in advance for any suggestions - Jay
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, and by the way, riding this thing rocks! What a kick in the pants....put her up to 80 today on a late afternoon ride to continue checking out the chain adjustment, etc. No issues whatsoever - the Pirellis also really inspire confidence when turning the bike...the Blast has been a very enjoyable surprise for our family this summer. :-)
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Kenny_gilgore
Posted on Sunday, August 11, 2013 - 12:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Vincenza,

http://www.amazon.com/Amber-motorcycle-Aluminum-Si gnals-Shadow/dp/B006ID2OAW/ref=sr_1_153?s=automoti ve&ie=UTF8&qid=1376196026&sr=1-153

I put these on my Honda and they are really nice.

KennyG
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Sunday, August 11, 2013 - 03:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Would these work (from an electrical standpoint)?

http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-MINISTALK-Signals -Mini-Stalk-Amber/dp/B0036GPA9Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_produ ct_top

thanks in advance for the info - would like to keep to black stalks to match the bike at this point.

Jay
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Kenny_gilgore
Posted on Sunday, August 11, 2013 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jay,

Yes they will work, but they do have dual filament bulbs so you can use them for running lights and turn signals if you want.

Look on Amazon I think that same supplier may have them in black, and black with smoke lenses..

The ones that I have are really great quality.

KennyG
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