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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Diagnosing problems: » Intake issues « Previous Next »

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Buellridertomisb
Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took apart my stock intake trying to find out what was wrong. Previously replaced the carb boot and still having issues. Found the paper gasket between the box and the carb was in about 3 pieces and not sealing at all. Hoping that is the problem. I just don't know where to find that gasket part number. Also, If I replace it with one of Dan's kits, will I need a different gasket? I know it is posted other places, but I have been working on this all day. I am dehydrated and currently lazy.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Part # 29059-88A
A common HD part universal to many many models as evidenced by the 1988 issue part number.

Make sure your vacuum plug is in good shape. It might look good, but crumble in your hands.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gasket will be the same for all intakes.
What's your problem?
If you're going to a different intake to solve a problem, it won't (unless you're using a non stock intake already).
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dan supplies all needed gaskets with his kits.
EZ
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Buellridertomisb
Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Basically it is the usual; starts ok but dies as soon as I turn the throttle. Was running rough on the way home the other day and idled into the drive way. Another funny thing was that it will idle ok until I give it gas or let out on the clutch (it is in neutral.)
Pulled the carb and looked at the boot and it seemed fine. The only thing I could see bad was the venturi gasket. I have been wanting to change to a different intake for awhile. I guess this is just excuse to do it.
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Buellridertomisb
Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eric, are you talking about the plug where the CA can would be?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes! You're not still running that canister are you?: (
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, it is possible you have a bad safety switch if it coincides with any kind of 'take-off', such as giving it gas while letting out the clutch.

And, of course, please, please dont take the carb apart "to give it a good cleaning". If you have concerns about fuel contamination, install a clear fuel filter (the cheap kind they sell for air cooled VWs).
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Buellridertomisb
Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik, I think my Blast was first sold in Chicago, so it doesn't have the CA can. I have taken the carb apart (NUMEROUS times) Enough that I can almost do it blindfolded. I already have an in-line fuel filter. It was on the bike when I got it. apparently the guy before me had a leak from the petcock and put a glass one on to make sure it was flowing. Speaking of that leak, has anyone else had that problem? I tightened the two screws holding the petcock and it hasn't been as bad, as long as I remember to shut off the fuell flow when not running.
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Buellridertomisb
Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, and I am not sure about the clutch safety. It only has that problem when I can't keep it going. Starts and will idle ok, but when I give it gas, it stalls out. As long as I am holding the clutch it is running. When I let out on the clutch, it sputters and dies.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well it sounds as if you have a safety switch problem then. Reverse the clutch diode first and bypass the kickstand safety next.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And I'll say it again: carbs rarely need to be "given a good cleaning" and I wish I had a dime for every time a problem started with "I took the carb apart and now my Blast won't run right"!
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Buellridertomisb
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 01:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was thinking about just replacing the whole switch and wiring. I found a dry rotted spot in the wiring where it is exposed. I don't think that would have caused all of this trouble, but I've seen stranger.
The next time I take the carb apart will be to re-jet it.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bypass the switches first and see if that works before you start replacing wiring. The diode is in the fuse block, the kickstand switches wires just need to be jumped together. Both real easy to do.

Rejetting just needs the float bowl removed and that can be gone on the bike! Not necessary to pull the carb apart (not that there is much more to a CV carb than that, but......).
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch Diode safety switch link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html
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