| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
LOL! I'm not sure anybody else knows what you're talking about but I'm LMAO!!! Good Luck then. I never have time to watch, but I get scores via the iphone, live. I cant justify it ether, but....my wife has her own obsessions. Dont know about the OP or what thread that was, PM sent. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ironically 'we're' both #3 in the league. Different leagues though ( dont hate me)! | ||
| Britchri10 |
I'm not a hater! Good luck to all who strive to compete (in anything) Football (soccer) is very much my second sport. However, WHTID! My better half has her own interests but we got hit w/a 20% reduction in our net income this last year & I just could not justify keeping 2+ bikes. Chris C | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - I'm down to 4 myself - lol EZ | ||
| Evanj11 |
The part number listed above for das boot under "Questions from New Buell Blast Riders - ThumperFAQ" doesn't match. Currently the correct part is #27443-00Y Hope this helps someone else avoid the confusion at a stealership  | ||
| Ezblast |
OMG!!!!! An updated critical part - pictures please - at least a few, let us know how it looks and compares to the old one - will order a few myself - later! EZ | ||
| Evanj11 |
lol | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I'm serious! EZ | ||
| Tarpot |
Just for clarification, the Das Boot part number has always been 27443-00Y. The number in the FAQ above just has a typo, needs correction LOL. Thanks Evan! | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Psychologic3 |
Hello all, I'm a new rider with about 100 miles on my 2000 Blast. First, I must thank you guys for sharing your vast knowledge of this great little bike. I bought my blast last fall with 14k miles on it for $750 and couldn't resist the urge to dive into modifications before even riding it in the spring (cold wisconsin winters here.) I have built a custom intake out of exhaust tubing and installed a UNI pod filter, fitted a V&H Pipe, rejetted the carb, raised the main needle, and adjusted the idle air mixture accordingly. I also fitted an NGK Iridium spark plug and built a custom 8mm Accel spark plug wire. The bike runs great and is a ball to zip around town on, but I am having one issue with it and am looking for some advice. When accelerating hard at full throttle, the bike runs fine through first gear, but as I dive into 2nd it will start popping and sputtering. I let off for a couple seconds and then get back on it and the thing accelerates great again. This only seems to happen when I accelerate hard for a length of time, regardless of what gear I am in. It's probably a good thing because it keeps me out of trouble with the law  , but I would like to get this bike running tip top if I can. Any suggestions? | ||
| Ghostedrider |
sounds like you are hitting the rev limiter | ||
| Psychologic3 |
Naw, it's a different kind of sputtering. Kind of an on-and-off sort of deal where it wants to accelerate, but runs out of juice. I suspect it is running out of fuel. I'm going to check the screen filter in the tank tonight. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check the tank vent. Do you have a large pod filter or something very short and small? Did you disturb the float setting when you changed jets? Are you running near reserve or on a full tank? Vacuum plug on the carb plugged? Are the safeties disabled? I'd disable the kickstand safety first. I do not know if the plug wire is compatible with the Blast ignition and .5 ohm coil. Check the plug wire and spark plug tip for tightness. Nothing jumps out at me as the cause, but I've listed some common causes. And "Das Boot" is good, right? | ||
| Psychologic3 |
The fuel filter screen and tank vent are clear. I sprayed the intake and boot with ether while the bike was running to check for leaks. Found none. The bike has done it on reserve and near full tanks. I always use premium fuel as well. The pod filter I have is huge and I made a provision in my intake for the diaphragm vacuum port so that is not plugged. I have already disabled the kickstand switch. I'll check the float height and spark plug end cap tightness today and then giver 'er another whomping to see if anything is better. I'm having another problem now too. It began last night and has quickly gotten worse. When I go to start the bike, key in run position, clutch disengaged, in neutral, with kill switch in run, the neutral and oil pressure indicators light up, but the engine doesn't turn over when I hit the starter button. After cycling the switches and pulling the clutch lever a couple times, I try again. Sometimes it will then fire right up, other times it does nothing. I sat there fumbling with the switches for a couple minutes this morning before it would turn over and start. Are there any common causes of this issue? | ||
| Bluv21 |
So the starter motor doesn't turn or it will turn but won't fire up? I guess I am not understanding what the exact problem is... | ||
| Psychologic3 |
The starter isn't turning over. As if a safety switch is keeping the starter relay from being energized. It's strange because ever since I asked about this problem, the bike has started right up without issue. | ||
| Ezblast |
Loose front ground - tighten. EZ | ||
| Psychologic3 |
I think I fixed my starting issue. I'll share with you guys what I found. I took apart the clutch safety switch and found that the contacts of the switch had gotten corroded and cruddy. The switch is far from waterproof and gets contaminated with dirt. As it's used overtime, the dirt wears away at the plastic body of the switch and the contacts. The resulting fine plastic dust gets into everything. I found a buildup on the contacts of the switch that seemed to have adhered to the corrosion on the contacts. By polishing the contacts with a scotch brite pad and cleaning out the rest of the switch, the bike now starts right up. I recommend anyone do this as preventative maintenance who has some miles on the bike or rides in wet weather quite a bit. The switch has four plastic catches holding it together and only takes about 5 minutes to remove, clean, and reinstall. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Maybe you can help mgkoret with fixing his: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/681466.html?1338121180 | ||
| Monzaracer |
Also the neutral switch under clutch levers can stick sometimes too. touch it with finger usually un-sticks it with lever pulled in mine started after sitting with no lever on it waiting on Motion Pro to make proper free length clutch cable. Got new one and its all good now,grr except front wheel brg went out. | ||
| Easybueller |
Hello all! As I'm sure you'll be able to see by my post, I am new to the world of Buell... That being said I LOVE my Blast! I just wish it had more power to haul me around. I have had an opportunity to look into the Knowledge Vault to see what I could find and do to make it get a lot more power. I'm not at all opposed to spending some decent money make an awesome bike. From what I have read there are two big bore kits that are currently available. Of the two, which is going to give me more power for the best money? I would like to do the 600 kit and make it a sleeper... however I see that involving a whole lot of time and me off my bike for quite a while... Advice is appreciated! | ||
| Ezblast |
Just ride it for a bit, then decide - you have a lot more reading to do. The bore kits are usually done if the head or cyl are shot, usually not before. A high comp piston, a few head upgrades in parts, maybe ignition, definitely carb work, intake and exhaust. Welcome! EZ | ||
| Stephenwalnum |
Hi Everybody, I have just installed 175/45 jets, shimmed needle, adjusted air/fuel screw (2.5 turns, added kn air filter, added jaridine exhaust system. Installed all at once. Now Exhaust pipe/header turns glowing red within minutes. Ran perfectly before upgrades. Does any body have any idea why this is happing to me.. i have read the symptoms point to running lean... but why and how... i followed all the directions on this forum to the T. PLEASE HELP! | ||
| Swampy |
A glowing header is a good thing. They all glow when they are running right. What you have to worry about is what color the spark plug is, if it is tan you are in the good! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
How does it run? | ||
| Stephenwalnum |
It seems to run okay... but it is deffinitely running alot hotter than it used too before the upgrades. My old exhaust never glowed. I've been afraid to ride it more than a mile. Do you think it is safe to ride longer, I dont want to damage the engine. It also smells like something is burning. Does everybody with these upgrades have a glowing red exhaust pipe within a minute of running? I'm thinking about taking it to a dealership but not sure if its safe to ride it. Im thinking about putting the old jets in to see if that gets rid of the problem. Does any body know where the factory position of the air fuel mixture screw is. I figure I can do process of elimination. I guess what i really need to find out if this glowing header on my buell blast 2009 is normal | ||
| Stephenwalnum |
Also where do I find the spark plug (stupid question I know) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Spark plug is under the tank. I tend to believe anything Swampy says. My guess is it's the outer covering that is glowing. A minute is not really long enough to get the actual metal to glow red. I've never seen one glow red, but you're not the first to have concerns about it. | ||
| Swampy |
Trust me, don't worry about the header, worry about the spark plug. If it is running fine and the spark plug shows a tan color (not a white) you have nothing to worry about. From what you say the jetting is set at you should be just fine, and the jetting should be much more rich than the stock settings. I have seen plenty of glowing exhausts before, even cast iron exhaust manifolds. |
