| Author | Message | ||
     Greco13 |
’02 blast with 6,500 miles. Current issues: Backfires at high speeds When I try ride up-hill from an idle stop, bike bogs out and can’t gain momentum to go Bike runs hot (oil pressure light stays off when running – is on before start as stated as normal in manual) – can feel heat at my legs as compared to my friends ’02 Blast I have: fully cleaned carb. & inspected parts; put friend’s carb./auto enricher/throttle position sensor on my bike (no change in symptoms); replaced ‘boot’ (manifold carb. coupler); new carb. gasket; new airbox cover seal; new air filter; new spark plug; new battery; newer oil (although I am running 20w50 in the Tucson Summer - maybe should be running something heavier); ran ‘SeaFoam’ motor treatment in gas. I am pretty well lost right now and need some direction to continue to troubleshoot these issues. Thank you so so so much anyone who is willing to shed some light | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check your timing. Verify you have the correct spark plug and gap. Swap plug cable with your friends blast Could be a bad ignition module. When you start pulling hair out, that's what it usually is. If your friend is generous, swap out his ignition module. That will tell you four sure! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I assume you're running premium? | ||
| Greco13 |
thank you for your reply, gearheaderiko! What is 'timing' and how do I check it? The plug was given to me @ Harley and the service guy said they were pre-gapped. I am borrowing my pal's bike and so I have access to whatever I need to test. I am new at this. I have just been chatting with Harley service guy and using my manual. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ignition timing. Look in the manual under timing -static timing and follow the procedure. Mark where the timing plate sits now so if you have a problem you can go back to where you started. Never assume a plug gap is correct. If the plug was dropped or tapped the head on the way in, it will be wrong. Unless the part is sealed in plastic, also don't assume you're the first one to touch it. Swapping ignition modules isn't difficult, but it might be beyond your capability (no offense). See how the timing works out first. | ||
| Greco13 |
how do I jack up the bike to allow rotation of the rear wheel so I can do the static timing? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do you have a floor jack? It goes right under the rear of the stock muffler. Be careful though, the kickstand is not the most stable. I've used milk crates under the footpegs "just in case". | ||
| Greco13 |
nevermind. Found a rear wheel lift on craigslist and ordered new outer timer cover. going to attempt timing soon. | ||
| Greco13 |
Step 6 of the Static Timing instructions says “Shift Transmission into 5th gear, and stand on left side of bike, slowly rotate wheel in direction of forward motion (counter-clock wise) until front intake valve opens and closes” Step 7 “Rotate rear wheel from right side of vehicle in direction of forward motion (clock wise) until TDC mark (vertical line) is centered in timing inspection hole. Step 8 “Turn ignition switch to ON position, make sure side stand is up and place transmission in NEUTRAL Step 9 “Loosen two screws and slowly rotate module plate until red LED illuminates. Tighten Module plate when complete” PROBLEMS: So in Step 6 I rotated the wheel in 5th gear until all the air is pressed out of the spark plug hole – this is supposed to mean the engine should be at TDC (?). Step 7 Then I go to Right side of bike and get the vertical line in the inspection hole. Step 8 I cannot get the bike to down shift from 5th to Neutral without turning the wheel and losing the vertical line. So I decided to find the vertical line in the inspection hole in 2nd gear (does this make a difference? The wheel was harder to turn…). Then I was able to turn the ignition switch ON and put it in Neutral. HOWEVER, even though the vertical line was in the center of the inspection hole, when I rotated the module plate to the extremes in both directions I couldn’t get the LED to illuminate. I noticed that when I was turning the wheel before and had left the ignition switch ON, the light would come on intermittently. We found out that there were other markings visible through the inspection hole – two round dots. When these dots showed in the hole, the LED would come on and no matter to what extreme I moved the module plate, the LED wouldn’t go off. So I tightened down the module plate with the light on, put the spark plug and inspection plug back in. It started but ran worse than before. I don’t know what I am doing. Please help, ha. | ||
| Greco13 |
by the way, I switched spark plug and wire. The bike ran better but still was backfiring and coughing at 60-70mph. Wasn't running premium before but I am now. Put octane boost in with the rest of the 89 octane. It no longer bogs down when starting from incline. (Message edited by greco13 on July 01, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Two round dots are advance dots only for use with a timing light. Only use the vertical line for "static" timing. Turn the engine one revolution, you're probably on the wrong stroke. Doesnt make a difference which gear you turn the engine over in. It can also be done by bumping the starter (but that generally is harder). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS If you wiggle the wheel back and forth, you usually can get the gears to change (turning the wheel without actually turning the engine, using the slop in the transmission). | ||
| Ezblast |
Bravo - concur! EZ |
