| Author |
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Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 01:22 am: | 
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at this point the only issue is getting idle the jetting and mix right, I can get the idle consistent. Its the cold starts thats been my biggest problem and concern. The new motor setup and ignition isnt as forgiving with "tuning errors" as the stock blast setups. In all honesty I just need to bite the bullet and get to a dyno |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 01:31 am: |
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He's running the WOT curve, probably with stock needle - as I, though that may change, I'd try 2 shims, it made a big difference on my 515cc - I could have kicked myself for not doing it earlier! if not working still, take out 1 and see where that leaves you. People are experimenting with different needles as well - lol
EZ |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 01:37 am: |
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I am running a Voes, the curve on my 1005s ex is real conservitave as far as the midrange advance. I have a photoshop file with all 9 curves layerd up and there isnt a big difference between the min and max curves (3-5 degrees) stock needle here. i've been watching jet's and stang's progress as well |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 10:13 am: |
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You dont really have anything that special that would make it 'unforgiving' to tuning errors. I'd plug the VOES port on the carb and see what happens. Maybe your VOES is bad (vacuum leak).I dont remember having a hard start problem until we started racing. Then I think it was mostly due to the timing cup coming loose.
The other hard start problem was due to low compression which really makes it a bitch to start.
A good ignition should make it fire right up, at least that was always the case with the ones I'd used. So there shouldnt be a problem there.
515 Blast head-515 XB head =different. Every dyno run I did showed shimming the needle was bad, making an already rich section, richer. I did try about a half dozen needles and only found one making things marginally better. I think the DAJ is the way to go (but never got to try it). |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 10:20 am: |
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Is the timing right? I see you're using the 1005s (which stands for single fire?). I cant think right now what difference that would make with the timing. Using the twin cup with the 'wasted spark' type ignition changes how it is timed.
Or did you just use the static method?
The wrong timing can also make it a pia to start. |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 11:25 am: |
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the 1005s EX is a sportster ignition with street curves only no race curves. it'll single fire or dual fire and multispark or not I'm running it single fire between multi and non. jets are 45/165 static timing seems too work the best as far as getting the idle reliable enough to ride around on. dynamic is a crapshoot at best without a tach so I'm sticking to static since thats working the best. once I get the bike started and warmed up the vacuum at a "normal blast idle" is showing pretty strong 20in unless i lean the mixtue screw out.. then id dies of course. static timing is as follows: line centered in hole by bumping bike forward in 5th(lestening for compession stroke hiss first). ignition turned counter clockwise until led just goes out... I could static time these things in my sleep now. bikes riding pretty well but the cold start thing has me stumped... one thing is the bike seemed to idle smoother (and a little higher) with the voes wire grounded where as it ran even worse with no voes |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 04:02 pm: |
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got one for ya... 180 is too much. rich stumble every so ovten at wot and i cant find my 170 or 175. 48 is also too much.. cant kill the bike by turning the mixture screw all the way in... it still idles so back down to a 46 i'm also having a broplem with the bike wanting to hang at a high idle wonce its warmed up |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 07:35 pm: |
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so first ride of the day I lost the toe peg to the crossroads shifter found that.. second ride I lost my front brake lever! red locktite here we come!! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 09:59 pm: |
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I was running a 150 or 155 (both) and a 45, no shims and a different needle (not far from stock though). I did start out with the 175/45 set up initially.I don't remember which 515 piston you have, just be cautious going lean.
High idle is often caused by an intake/vacuum leak. It can also be caused by incorrect timing. To the best of my knowledge there isn't a single cylinder voes available. That might be your source. I would run just a straight advance curve (without voes or tps input) and see what happens. The high idle could also be causing voes problems. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 10:01 pm: |
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PS Loctite also now comes in a chapstick type form (if you haven't seen it). |
Sycho
| | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 10:38 pm: |
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{so first ride of the day I lost the toe peg to the crossroads shifter found that.. second ride I lost my front brake lever! red locktite here we come!}
Gremlins!! |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 12:44 pm: |
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update.. tested bike, right now were at 46/180. main is too rich for sure but I'm working on starting and idle issues. bike idles veryy lumpy and low with the voes hooked up... if I jup the voes and ground the voes wire so the low curve is forcedadvanced to 20 btc @1000 and the idle is pretty solid plug the voes back in and it dies and the timing for wot is 12 btc @1000 for wot.. I think the voes calibrated too high and its switching betweeen the two curves. also max wot advance is 28 btc @ 5000 for wot. so I also tried advancing the static a tad more and seem to be getting somewhere. I really need to get to a dyno so I can at least get my main, pilot and mixtre set right. stupid gremlins |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Friday, June 08, 2012 - 12:58 pm: |
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update: voes was switching about at 5" once recalibrated to 3" and advancing the ignition 2mm were in business. starting much easier now. |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2012 - 06:14 pm: |
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first real ride... warmer it got the worse the off idle got. only had to push it off the road once.. were 98% there. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2012 - 08:53 pm: |
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Maybe bogging due to being too rich? But I'm not there riding it so I cant really know! |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2012 - 09:59 am: |
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yeah.. its a tad hard to start warmed up.. lean out the mixture and it fires right up. recalibrating the voes to 3" and advancing the ignition 6 degrees helped. WOT is full advanced by 5000rpm @ 29 degrees now. |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 09:51 am: |
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well found my issue 5 years later... intake valve seat was chipped so I was loosing a lot of compression, I got that fixed and it ran good for 40 miles till I popped the piston.... too much advance and too much fuel |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 10:44 am: |
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That was the problem with many 515's. I'd hoped they'd solved the problem, but alas, no.
Thanks for the update. |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 01:19 pm: |
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I knew 11.5:1 was too much for cruise. should have taken a shim out. cylinders must have washed down. wot was 12.6:1 and pulled like a CHAMP |
