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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Ignition, Battery, Charging System - Electronic Trouble shooting » Where does your ignition module light go off? « Previous Next »

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Bluv21
Posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I posted earlier to another thread about this subject but seeing as I am starting to know what's going on, I was wondering in what position does the cam position sensor work best? I tried the alternate method of setting the TDC mark to the center of the window and turning the ignition module until the light goes off. This is little different from turning the ignition module until the light goes on because they are essentially the same position. However, I am getting sort of a constant clicking that sounds like its coming from the cylinder. I have read that some people are setting their ignition timing so that the light goes off as the mark enters the window. I have also read that some are setting the module so the light goes off as the mark is exiting the window. Which position works best?
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Madmotor
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you static or dynamic timming, sounds like youre kind of mixing them both. Put TDC as close to the center in window as possible. Install the ignition and if its the OEM then find the edge of ON. This should be good enough to start it.

Dont worry, it wont blow up on you... if youre off too much it just wont start.

Next you should find a timeing light and a rpm tach and get the two dots centered in the window @2000 RPM.

piece o cake

(Message edited by madmotor on April 18, 2012)
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 08:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock module CANT light the LED as it comes into the window. I have tried and it is not possible to turn the module that far. Others have said that the on the stock module, the LED should go off as it enters the window. In any case I think I might have too much advance because I am getting a pronounced "clicking" when I start it up. I'll try retarding it a degree or 2.
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Madmotor
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, cool, if it starts all you gotta do is the dynamic part and dial it in.
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What is a good relatively cheap timing light to use on the Buell?
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Roblast
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All I know is that I'm pretty sure I've got the stock module on my 2008 and I've got no problem getting the light to come ON as the TDC mark enters the window.
It works just as the manual states.
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Roblast
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For dynamic timing, isn't it set at 1200 RPM, not 2000 RPM?
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think some modules might have different steady states. I've read that some modules will go on as the TDC mark enters and some will go off. Anyone know if this is true?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your first post says it all "This is little different from turning the ignition module until the light goes on because they are essentially the same position." All Blast ignitions are the same.

Dynamic timing is set at 1200 rpms.

Buy a "dial back" timing light. That will allow you to advance or retard the timing (or see how retarded or advanced it is).

But if you think you have problems, a timing light is the next step.

Clicking is not usually caused by incorrect ignition timing. It will backfire through the carb or exhaust, or make the engine really difficult to turn over (at which point you might hear the eventual clicking of a low battery).
FWIW: The Blast ignition usually doesnt fire the first revolution as its letting the engine build up a little speed before it starts firing the cylinder.

I'm trying to figure out if you've actually timed the bike yet?
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Erik,

I have statically timed the bike by turning the crank to tdc and rotating the module just until the light goes off. I have not dynamically timed the bike yet. Would there be any difference if I retarded the timing slightly? I am trying to figure out what the clicking is that I hear from the cylinder. I guess I can check the exhaust clamp to see if it any exhaust is escaping. It is very pronounced and it sounds unlike the primary.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The noise probably wont diminish, but it may affect performance slightly. Probably in a bad way, possibly in a good way. Just go ever so slightly. But this is where you should be using a timing light (unless you've already marked degrees advanced or retarded on the module-which you havent).

If you dont use a timing light, listen carefully for knock, ping or overheating. If the TDC line is still in the window when static timing, you'll probably be okay as far as advanced or retarded is concerned.
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the timing view plug from a big twin for the blast?
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok I got rid of the "clicking" by retarding the timing some. I noticed that the LED was flickering very fast but not flashing (as the manual states that if flashing the module is failing). Is this normal? What does "flashing" mean in the context of the manual?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sportster, Big Twin, Blast, Buell, all the same timing view plug.

Flickering can be bad, but you dont have a reference point of what flashing really is : ( (or does your Nightster have an LED too?-that might be a good reference point)

Flash and and subsequent flickering is easy to see and a bad sign. But usually there are other symptoms of a bad module first.

(Message edited by Gearheaderiko on April 18, 2012)
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok well let me ask it a different way. What is the normal behavior of the LED on the stock module at idle? I don't think my Nightster has any of that since they went to Fuel injection on the Sportsters but I haven't looked.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It flashes. But at 1000rpms thats 1000 times per minute. It might look like a flicker.

If you have the XL repair manual that will tell you about its LED. But you're probably right, its too new for the LED and just has the crankshaft sensor.

and my apologies-Nightster!
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Bluv21
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fantastic. Well the good news is that I reckon it's functioning properly. I called the Harley shop to ask about the timing windows but the guy said he only had one for a big twin and it wouldn't fit the Buell. I don't think those guys are old school enough to know. I stopped by my local dealer today and I got an excuse that they discontinued them "because they leaked." I told the guy that they weren't designed to leave in there and he replied that "people were leaving them in." Sometimes I feel like bashing my head right there on the parts counter at the BS that those parts guys dish out. Anyhoo, I will pick up a timing window when I am across the bay. They have some left from the old days I think. By the way, thank you for your help! I really appreciated it. If I could send a cold 6 pack i would!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh yes, dont mention its for a Buell and they go dumb. "Sorry, dont carry no mule parts, now git"!
Same plug they've been using for decades, everybody carries them, they fit everything : ( Not surprised though.

Makes you want to write a letter to the GM showing the HD part number and the poor attitude of the salesmen. A lot of work for a $7 part though (but they could have sold you a $17,000 motorcycle with good customer service). Can ya tell it just ticks me off!!!
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