| Author | Message | ||
     Ghostedrider |
I couldnt get buell forums to load from a bookmark since about 1 pm today ..... then it would load to a blank white page , now at 10:30 pm it is a new site ....buell/xb.com some posts have the same name but have different member names ......... WHAT HAPPENED ? was the site hi jacked ? this is the new address that shows when using a good bookmark http://www.buellxb.com/ EZ ...gearheadrenco...jetlee... R U out there | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, No idea. EZ will know though. | ||
| Slabber |
Buellxb purchased the buellforums.com domain name over the weekend. They're not sure they're even going to use the name.. | ||
| Slabber |
Story here: http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/General-Moto rcycle-Chat/Buellxb.com-has-acquired-BuellForums.c om | ||
| Jetlee |
OMG...all that information...gone. I wish something was said to the Mods. I would've done my best to help out or possibly purchase it myself. BFT, wtf? (Message edited by Jet-Lee on March 14, 2012) | ||
| Ghostedrider |
thanks you guys ! ya i depended on the info there and don think i have much of any of the tips given,,,,,,,,, I assumed/got used used to it being a click away . sure is a waste if its gone for good, I was doing some searches and cant find most things i was following because i checked the latest posts and the top 4 areas. im glad i copied a few things, how ever i believe most info i saved was from here my first buell site. thanks for the info, I dont post much but have been a daily follower for a while. | ||
| Ghostedrider |
here is what I have copied and can re donate back to the community ... hope it helps. CARB INTAKE GASKET ================================================== ==================== don't tell them you're looking for a gasket for you Buell Blast. Tell them you're looking for a gasket for your Keihin CV40. ****Maintenance**** ================================================== ======= Primary Chain Adjustment: at 1,000 & at every 2,500 mi. interval thereafter. **Note**The Blast is shipped with a spacer between the primary chain limiting screw and the locknut. The spacer is discarded at the first service interval. A inch-pound torque wrench is used to adjust primary chain : Tighten chain limiting screw to 24 in/lbs Back-off chain limiting screw 3/4 turn = 4 1/2 'flats' *Practical note: 12 flats more (14 flats out from torque spec is usually golden)is the experienced recommendation by many. Hold chain limiting screw while tightening jam nut. Too loose = that box of rocks sound Too tight = your top end drops to like 65mph and it will throw your idle off and you can stall out too. So if this happens after your first service - this is one of the possible reasons. Well thats all there is to it, the inch/lb torque wrench would pay for itself by the fourth adjustment - but its up to you, to justify the expense. The following method though not recommended is used by many : Can this be done without a torque wrench? To answer your question, Yes. From a cold start, let the bike get to a warmed up idle, then start tightening the primary chain. When you hear the idle start to drop, back off 12 flats. I've been doing it this way for the last few chain adjustments, and it is usually within a flat of adjusting it with a torque wrench. BTW, the reason for a cold start is to set the chain tension with a cold primary. (Note: A hex nut has six sides, six flats, 1/3 of a turn is 2 flats.) Chain # 40005-57B $56.70 Tensioner shoe spring # 24349-00Y $8.25 Tensioner shoe #39922-00Y $6.93 Clutch basket washer #37870-91 $7.88 Clutch basket nut #37495-91 $14.18 Front sprocket nut #7839 $3.60 ================================================== ============================ EZ's Stock Airbox Modification: Ok -I'm going to lay it out plainly, step by step. While sitting astride your bike looking foward toward the front wheel,handlebars,tank,seat,etc. Now facing in that direction look down to the left side of your bike behind the cylinder and you will see the plastic air scoop that directs air into the mouth of your intake : (the black plastic thing sticking out with the wierd shaped hole). Peek in that hole and you will see your intake venturi sticking out (that black bugle mouth shaped thing sticking out of the left wall - your left). Now disassemble your intake - remember where each screw and bolt goes or ziplock in a bag and label bag w/paper tape and a pen. I would suggest that you have both a service manual and parts manual before you do any assembly/disassembly on your bike so you'll have good references. Now the best tool for this is a Dremel with a small plastic/wood drill - cutting blade,others have used hole saws,and there are other choices as well - just be carefull - there is no redo without buying another intake - lol - Essentially what you are going to do is cut the bugle/venturi off and then widen the hole to just before the filter holding circular wall (that circle of plastic that holds the base of your filter in place - the base being the large end). Now is the time to reroute your breather lines. "Additudes" Site: http://www.bcrider.com gives very good instructions on this topic,please see the links section. If at this time you do not wish to reroute your lines, then do the following at least to help your engine's peformance. Looking at your carb with only the air boxcover off (the 5 snaps and philips screw) you will see a spigot aimed at your carb.s' throat/mouth/opening (this is an epa thing that sucks and is totally unnescessary) turn the spigot 200 degrees so that it is now facing away and down from the carb throat - this will safely vent any waste to the bottom of your air box (now also your catch can so clean regularly (once per month unless doing serious miles/high rpms then much more often - once per week). When reassembling, remember that all screws that go to the engine- NEED to be red Lock-tited (only engine - not carb or others) in reassembly. Your airbox will still mostly look stock to the casual observation, however with the K&N you will breathing at about 90% the efficiency of a stack (velocity stacks are good as it gets) and anything else such as an exhaust will appreciate the extra air improving the exhausts performance as well. Well thats it - a simple modification that will really improve the bikes breathing - thus improving engine performance (if you have a good ear for tones you'll notice the difference in sound). I tried to keep it simple, not because I think anyone is stupid, but because experience has taught me that we all see things differently. ================================================== =============================== Carb jetting tips : Engine Carburation and fuel delivery systems and their repair/maintenance/upgrades. Stock Jetting : pilot/mainjet 2000 - 2001 42/165 2002 - 2006 42/170 *ALL Aftermarket Exhaust(Except Buell Pro Series)use a 1-3/4" Header. With aftermarket exhaust, but stock intake, rejet as follows : Below 5000' Altitude - 45/170 Above 5000' Altitude - 44/165 *Note*-With Kerker exhaust which has a 1 5/8" crossover,use a #165 mainjet For Aftermarket Exhaust AND a hi-flo intake or Modded Stock (EZ mod)... ...rejet as follows: Below 5000' altitude - 45/175 Above 5000' altitude - 44/170 your going to have to remove the airbox per manual & loosen Das Boot just a bit. Then drop the bowl and rejet. Then put bowl back on. Then loosen side bracket screw on carb - it can be a bear - use PBBlaster (if that doesn't work - use a dremel to turn it into a flat headed screw and leave it like that - I did - lol) - then remove top screws, remove lid slowly so spring does not fly out, shim needle, put lid gently back in so rubber gasket edges are not pinched, but seated into grove. Put top bolts back in, tighten side bracket screw. Get a small drill bit attached to drill - tape up bit so only 1/8" is showing - drill out air screw plug - it is only sauder - do not try to drill in - you only want to destroy the sauder plug,not what is under it, when done take a pocket flathead screwdriver and turn the screw gently all the way in then 2 1/2 turns back out. Do airbox mod - your choice of which one - reinstall onto carb tighten boot - done. EZ Recommended jetting for better performance out of a stock Blast: 45/170, shim needle .05" (aprox. 2 brass #4 machined washers), air screw at 2 2/3rds out from light bottom - of course your gas mileage will be less - the first step into the dark side! Re-setting the TPS at home: My method is very sinmple and works for any bike with tps. Disconnect the battery negative lead. Before I remove the carb I check, note and mark throttle plate and shaft location. A small scribe mark on body and shaft is all you need. Then do the same for the tps hold down. Scribe the hold down and body. Now you can clean and repair carb and put everything back to the factory location. The tps is basically a rheostat. It varies current according to the throttle shaft position using the tps as a locator. The magic box used by h-d merely duplicates voltage ranges of the cpu. If You prefer to check the actual voltage you can use a low voltage step down rheostat switch and multimeter. Set the range according to that put out by the cpu and follow the manual for the voltage you need to read. Another method is to check the resistance across the wireing harness from the tps .Reset the tps to the reading you get when you put everything back together. Here are the Actual Harley part #'s for those jets : 45 pilot = #27170-89 175 main = #27090-89 #48 low speed PN 27165-90 (or DS289320) "NEEDLE JET" and the part # is "27100-88" Pilot Jet (Slow Jet) Part Number Jet Size 27165-90.........48........Perfect 27170-89.........45........Good/perfect for Hi comp piston 27171-89.........42........Lean 27281-92.........40........Very Lean 27117-88.........35........Too LEAN Main Jet (High Speed) Part Number Jet Size 27105-88..........200........Way Rich 27185-90..........185........Damn Rich 27114-88..........180........Rich 27090-89..........175........Perfect 27115-88..........170........Stock 27116-88..........165........Stock lean 27152-89..........160........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment) 27154-89..........155........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment) JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 to replace OEM JET NEEDLE PN 27637-00Y The carb jetting is not all that hard to do, so just do it! Your Blast will thank you for it. Here is a link on modifying the CV carb: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm The needle shims are probably the most difficult thing to find, you may have to do some rummaging around at a hardware store, I just used some small crimp on eye connections with the crimp cut off, and the remaining washer smoothed out. It came out to .047, close enough. The most difficult proceedure is getting the diaphragm seated in the groove properly. I seat the diaphragm in the back side of the groove cut into the carb and start gently pushing down with the cover, then I take a 6 inch steel rule(Because its flat)and push the remaining diaphragm into the groove from the front side of the carb, when you get it right, the cover sort of slips into place. At all costs avoid using too much downward pressure, or just run the screws into the cover as you will pinch the diaphragm and the carb will not work right. If you pinch and puncture the diaphragm you will need to buy a new slide assembly and they go in the $50+ range. Gentle pressure, don't get in a hurry and you will fast become an expert at it. You remove the top of the carb. You remove the spring, you remove the plastic guide , you remove the needle from the grey plunger. You put the two #6 brass washer on the needle , You put the needle back into the gray plunger *Note* the brass washers should now be between the head of the needle and the gray plunger. You put the plastic spring guide back You put the spring back on You carfully put the plastic carb cover back on, making sure that the black rubber seal is lined up. Tighten screws on carb cover. they also recommend replacing the stock needle with an early Sportster needle PN 27094-88. That may have already been mentioned. EDIT: IF you replace the stock needle with this sportster needle there is no need to shim. I know there has been question on the .05" and weather to use 2 #4 or #6 washers to shim .... this will eliminate all that for around $6.00 from HD ===================================== Accessing Idle mixture screw- Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from fully seated,or for best idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle. Shim the needle a little higher (~0.05". The best course is to then to run your bike on a dyno equiped with a wide band oxygen sensor (air/fuel meter). Optimum safe high performance WOT A/F ratio is between 12.5 and 13.5. Anything over 14.5 is excessively lean and risks stressing/overheating your combustion chamber. ================================================== =================================== Spark Plugs : (Factory Harley) #10R12A 10r12=DCPR9E=ixu01-27 heat range wise, not plug quality, recommended for the Vrod (which uses the 10R12A as gthe Blast does) is DCPR8EIX by them and that should be DCPR9EIX to correspond exactly to the needed Buell/VRod heat range recommended by HD/Buell. Which then directly crosses over to the IXU01-27, and its lesser breeds DCPR8EIX is still a tad too hot, not too dangerously, but still. DCPR9EIX is the correct plug - No - you want the IXU27B - regular Iridium, orIXU01-27 - the racing plug which is the bomb!! buell ----- B12P Quality NGK Spark Plugs cross referenced specifically for Buell Blast usage. *Notice* The NGK Website had been showing the incorrect Plugs for the Blast ! *Side Note*- Plugs recommended below use larger socket/wrench size. The correct Standard "NGK" Plug is a #DPR9EA-9 (stock #5329) The correct "NGK" Iridium plug for our Blast, is NGK #DPR9EIX-9 (stock #5545) *NOTE* - Iridium type plugs are the BEST in the World! (Highly Recommended) NGK cross-ref recommendations: NGK DPR7EA-9 hot (not recommended) NGK DPR8EA-9 medium / stock # 4179 ngk DCPR8EIX / 6546 --------gap .040 (iridium) NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12) Terminal Nut, if necessary, order part #067606-0051 (ngk) *NOTE* "DCPR type" are same, except(OEM)socket size.... Autolite -------- xtream sport---xs4164 --------- standard ------4164 -------gap .040 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ================================================== ===================== heat rages for 2000 on back, changed in the year 2000 to the 10R12A heat range - I ran with the old heat ranges and it was the contributing factor to my engines melt down - lol - stick with the factory heatranges Spark Plug Gap 0.038" - 0.043" 10R12A are the stock number for the Blast for genereral cross reference and knowledge the following should help - Buell 27661-00Y (10R12) (Supersedes old/hotter 6R12 OEM plugs) NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended) NGK DPR8EA-9 medium (still a tad hot) NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12 & 10R12A) DCPR same except socket size Iridium plugs still cross reference over to the older hotter 6R12 plug, if you cross reference using the NGK number for the 10R12 you get IX27B (regular Iridium) which is correct, and its racing version -IXU01-27 ! Note: the Blast, XB, and VRod share a special conotation on their plugs - 10R12A - the A stands for added sealing, these plugs will not back out if torqued in correctly, however, sooner or latter any aftermarket plug may need retightening - so please check your plugs tightness before any long trip - this is still advisable for stock as well - singles do vibrate after all;0) lol my glitch - the correct part number is IXU01-27 is the correct stock number, the 27 being the correct heat range. Will fix. ************************************************** ***************** Spark Plug Gap 0.038" - 0.043" 10R12A are the stock number for the Blast for genereral cross reference and knowledge the following should help - Buell 27661-00Y (10R12) (Supersedes old/hotter 6R12 OEM plugs) NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended) NGK DPR8EA-9 medium NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12) DCPR same except socket size Iridium plugs still cross reference over to the older hotter 6R12 plug, if you cross reference using the NGK number for the 10R12 you get IX27B which is correct, and its racing version! Note: the Blast, XB, and VRod share a special conotation on their plugs - 10R12A - the A stands for added sealing, these plugs will not back out if torqued in correctly, however, sooner or latter any aftermarket plug may need retightening - so please check your plugs tightness before any long trip - this is still advisable for stock as well - singles do vibrate after all;0) Starting Diagnosis - Please don't take this wrong. Is the kill switch in run? Fuel petcock in the reserve position? Fuel in the tank? First, does the motor turnover with the starter? If no check battery voltage at starter, large cable. If good then it's the low current circuit or the starter. If it's bad then it's the cable, connections or the battery. If it turns over the next think to check for is spark and fuel. Pull the plug reconnect the high voltage plug wire ground the plug on the head, turn the motor over check for spark. Caution I would not hold the plug or wire without a good glove. If the plug is wet with gas when you pulled it then you know that you have fuel and should change the plug. If not wet, then turn the motor over while twisting the throttle and smell for fuel coming out of the cylinder. Caution it may shoot mists of fuel out the plug hole. Hope this will get you started. If you don't have a Service manual please get one. Not an expert. Traditional Spark Plug, 12mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 11/16" (18mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Stud Terminal Threads, Projected Tip, .035" (0.9mm) Gap, Heat Range 9. NOTE: Does not Include Terminal Nut, if necessary, order part #067606-0051 ************************************************** ******** I recently picked up a plug wire from Auto Zone for $5 which has fixed my recent misfire and sputtering problems. The Blast would just spontaneously die, and then spring back to life. I noticed it was a short in the cable (both between the cable and plug as well as the cable and the ignition module), and the ------- AutoZone part #15N -------------- Plug wire part number at Orielly's is #8N15. Less than $5.00 fits perfectly and has boots on both ends. This plug is way better than the poor contact setup that comes on the stock plug. FYI, for plugs that don't have a "Fixed" top cap on the stud, red loctite the center threads to the top stud before installing, otherwise they will vibrate loose. ================================================== ============================= A set of oversized (110/70 front 140/70 rear) Pirelli Diablo scooter tires can make a Blast handle so good you would think it was a differant bike altogether and don't need any mods to fit! Previously, we had FOUND another *Oversize* Tire size that fit the rear of our Blast- without swingarm mods or contact. This was a VERY limited tire size: 140/70-16 made by Avon, Pirelli, Michelin, etc for the rear use the 110/70 front with this and enjoy superior handling. For extended mileage and smoother ride from the front tire... (and this tip WON'T slow steering too much) Replace that front tire with a taller size from any quality tire manufacturer, but use the 100/90-16 size -INSTEAD of the OEM 100/80 series. Those (90 series)fronts will then last a few 1000 more miles and soften the bumps a slight bit more. -------------------------------------------------- --------------------- Optional service products ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Air Filter element alternative: K & N makes one of their oiled fabric filters as a Drop-in for the Blast. Order part # BU-5000 and don't pay more than $50.00 for the filter. BUELL P0213T __________________________________________________ ___________________ Oil Filter alternative: For anyone who has had trouble finding non-factory oil filters for your Buell Blast, here is a list of part numbers that will work as direct replacements for the factory filter. Walmart-SuperTech #ST4967 (formerly same as OEM Buell)-quality/lower cost filter. **Don't use Fram #4967 , they are Junk Filters!*** Oil Filter Cross-Reference: Manufacturer/Part Number H-D / 63806-00Y / BUELL 6380600Y AC/DELCO / PF1233 MOTORCRAFT / FL836 PUROLATOR / L14476 STP / S4967 BOSCH / 3311 MOBIL / M1-103 FRAM / PH4967 K&N / HP-1003 / Oil Filter KN-177 BECK/ARNLEY / 041-8066 WIX / 51394 NAPA / 1394 FLEETGUARD / HF6158 Amsoil / SDF10 HIFLO FILTRO HF177 _________________________ Alternate Motor Oils- The Stock H-D Dinosaur oil isn't the best, but their NEW (expensive) Synthetic "Screaming Eagle Syn3" is pretty good. The Mobil 1 for motorcycles, in 20w50 (V-Twin formula) is also one of the worlds best. Very close in performance for the Blast is the Mobil 1-(Auto Formula) in 15w50 (thats what I use). The VERY BEST motor oil you can use in any Harley- is Amsoil...Period ! http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/harleydavi dsonoil.htm But any popular Name Brand of Synthetic or Semi-Synthetic in 20w50 is a good choice for the Buell Blast. ********************************* Alternate Trans Fluid substitutes- It's safe to use ANY(*Motorcycle)quality 20w50 Motor oil in our transmission. And use of the Superior- Synthetic 20w50's will even aid in shifting. ***WARNING*** -DO NOT USE (Hypoid) GEAR OILS IN THE TRANSMISSIONS ! (Especially Don't use Mobil 1 : 75w90 Synthetic Gear Lube) Those lubes contain sulfur compound additives, which will eventually eat into the Stator(Alternator) and short it out(PROVEN), causing the need for an expensive repair ! ================================================== ==================================== ****Problems and remedies**** _____________________________ Oil leak/seep Problems- Early model (yr 2000- mid 2002) : 1. Rocker Box Gasket (infamous paper Gasket leak on pre-03 Blasts/Harleys) Just replace with a new/current H-D/Buell(one piece) gasket, or one from an aftermarket company like James or Cometic. 2. Oil line(also wire harness) rubs through on the air box: The fix (for me) for the Sharp Airbox edge rubbing thru the oil (breather) line, is to first sand off that sharp edge a bit,and then make a slip-on nylon sleeve to protect the line from further damage. The nylon material should be as tough as the air-box, but sanding off the sharp edge actually takes the brunt off of the problem. I made the sleeve from Nylon tubing and slit it lengthwise to just pop over the line with seam side back. It seems to have done the trick. ************** Cracked/Leaking Intake Boot (aka Manifold coupler)-these fail often. OEM Replacement part #27433-00Y Replacement procedure follows, and is rather easy: You DON'T just Yank it out ! You need to loosen both sides of the airbox first....then you can pull the airbox with the carb attached - a little bit away -so THEN you can pop out the Boot ! Ok- on the left side of the airbox lower down- you locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to the triangular bracket that bolts to the block- But DO NOT remove that Third Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact ! Then on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small metal tab on the underside of the airbox- that attaches it to the engine block....after that- the box and carb are free to move enough to safely pop off the intake boot (manifold connector). When you're done snugging up the boot clamps(don't overtighten and shread the rubber!) you Then use Blue loctite on the CLEANED threads on the right side bolt and tighten snugly (there is a Torque value to that bolt- so don't strip the aluminum threads in the block). On the left side- the bolts insert into a brass- threaded insert in the airbox- just use ONE tiny drop of blue loctitie on THOSE cleaned threads and snug them up really good- but don't strip by over tightening. And thats all there IS to it ! ================================================== ========================================= Timing cover (points cover) Harley P/N 32584-88TA. I think it retails under $20, otherwise, the plastic one is P/N 32341-00YA and it retails about $5 and will eventually need to be replaced. ================================================== ================================================== = full sized windshield for a blast part #57775-01Y -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------- The Blast has a vacuum operated carburetor. The intake boot transfers vacuum created from the stroke of the cylinder. The Blasts carburetor is basically suspended by the intake boot and the air filter compartment. It is subjected to a large amount of vibration, and as it gets older, it starts to crack, allowing the vacuum to escape robbing your carburetor of the proper air & fuel mixture necessary to run your bike well Intake Boot Symptoms (Smallest to Largest) : *) Flat Power Loss - If you are experiencing loss of power while riding flat, not under load, not going up a hill or a steep grade *) Small increases in fuel efficiency - Do you normally get 65 to 70 miles per gallon, and now it seems your getting 70 to 75 *) Do you have random power loss followed by backfire, then a regain in power *) Bike will not start, will turn over, but will not start *) Will idle but dies when you apply throttle. Tests *) Make sure it is not a gas tank vacuum issue, try to start your bike with the gas cap off (If no continue) *) Have you checked your fuel is on, the fuel filter &main line into your carburetor? (If yes continue) *) Are you getting consistent spark from your plug? (If yes continue) *) Place your hand over your carburetor while attempting to start the engine. You should feel strong suction on your hand, (If not continue) *) Replace intake boot Replacement at a garage will run you just under $170, 2 hours labor + part, the part is about $10.00 retail and very easy to replace. Following the Service Manual instructions for checking fuel filter and removing carburetor will get you all the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Be sure you have the boot seated in the grooves correctly, and that the clamps are in the correct grooves and tighten sufficiently. NOTE: I noticed the smaller issues for about a month before my boot issue got to the point my bike would not start. It has also been suggested that you regularly change the intake boot at least every 2 years. For resolving the issue: Yes - but also check your front and rear grounds and battery connections. doing the boot is simple: To replace the "Boot" (Manifold-Carb Coupler),you need to loosen both sides of the airbox first....then you can pull the airbox with the carb attached - a little bit away -so THEN you can pop out the Boot ! Ok- on the left side of the airbox lower down- you locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to the triangular bracket that bolts to the block- But DO NOT remove that Third Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact ! Then on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small metal tab on the underside of the airbox- that attaches it to the engine block.. after that- the box and carb are free to move enough to safely pop off the intake boot (manifold connector) and replace with a NEW one. Now time to button it back up. When you're done snugging up the boot clamps(don't overtighten and shread the rubber!) you Then use "Blue" loctite on the CLEANED threads on the lower right side bolt and tighten snugly (the Torque is 10-12 ft lbs)-don't strip the aluminum threads in the block. On the left side, the bolts insert into a brass(threaded) insert into the airbox, just use ONE drop of (low strength)"Purple" loctite on THOSE cleaned threads, and snug them up(Torque is 3-5 ft lbs)- but don't strip by over tightening. And thats all there IS to it! Clutch Diode Flip link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html | ||
| Ghostedrider |
sCREAMIN’ EAGLE ADJUSTABLE IGNITION SYSTEM This ignition system allows the Sportster rider to tune the engine’s ignition with 10 different curves to maximise performance for stock or modified engines. Allows rev limit adjustability in 100 RPM increments. Module connects to existing wiring harness and contains an LED to easily static-time the engine during installation. For race application only. 32942-02 Fits ’98-later XL models (except XL1200 Sport). **Also fits 00 and later Blast models (written on the package)** It also has would appears to be a manufacturers packaging date of 05/06/02 I went my local Harley dealership (Privateers) and they looked up the part #. It came back as a discontinued item that retailed for $370. ================================================== ================================================== =================== For technical information and discussion of Buell P3 BLAST! Engine Carburation and fuel delivery systems and their repair/maintenance/upgrades. Manafold Coupling Part Number# 27443-00Y (DAS BOOT!) Stock Jetting 2000 - 2001 42/165 2002 - 2008 42/170 For exhausts that are aftermarket - 45 or 48 primary 175 Main For the Kerker - 45 primary, & 165 to 170 main (until you cut the crossover tube off, run directly from the header the can of your choice - instant top performing system - then you would run the 45/48 primary, & 175 main) WB/Force/ & any true performance exhaust with a min. of 1 3/4" od header in combination w/low to no restriction exhaust can: 45/46 primary & 175 Main & shim needle 0.050" Note 1) 180 main may be a little rich for some exhausts. Note 2) if live and dwell above 5000 ft - 45 primary 170 main Final Jetting notes: Actually a lot of my jetting knowledge is from my various dynos and my observations - hardly a rush - over a year to decide I was still running pretty lean over - all. My recommendation these days would be: Stock - 45/170 Exhaust change only - 45/175 Exhaust and intake - 48/175 or 180 All at sea level - at above 5000ft. I would have a different answer. I'd also recommend an Irridium plug - especially the racing - for a more complete burn - you'll instantly notice the difference. Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from full in or for best idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle. Shim the needle a little higher (~0.05". The best course is to then to run your bike on a dyno equiped with a wide band oxygen sensor (air/fuel meter). Optimum safe high performance WOT A/F ratio is between 12.5 and 13.5. Anything over 14.5 is excessively lean and risks stressing/overheating your combustion chamber. Please Note: You cannot run an aftermarket intake (even the Buell Pro Series) without bracing the carb in some fashion - Most recomend Matching carb springs for cars (loop on one side, spring middle, flat length on the other end) - one each side of the carb to the head (yes - 2 holes would need to be drilled). Other brackets have also been run - usually resulting in premature intake boot failure. The spring on the left gets looped on the hard vacuum line off the carb and the flat side of the spring is fed through a hole drilled on the bottom left head fin facing the carb. The right spring gets looped over the carb body pertubrence (where the Sporster accelerator pump would go)sticking out the right side - the loop fits over very snuggly, but it does fit and again fit flat side of spring through hole drilled in bottom fin of head and secure. You want spring tightness to be firm resisting pressure when you try to pull the carb from the boot - clamps loose for this test of course. Make sure clamps, including airfilter cover clamp are tight. The carb springs are a common item used to sinc carbs in cars - come 2 in a package - a loop on one side and flat wire on the other - the loops going over the top of the secondary jet housing (note a Blast does not have a secondary jetting, however, it still has the housing for such - you can see it clearly in the middle picture) -just fits- and the flat wire side goes in a little hole you drill on the bottom corner of the bottom head cooling fin facing the carb, the other loop going over the vacuum side plugged line to the opposite corner where the other hole is drilled. Loop the flat wire side through the holes and secure with a light equal tension on both sides holding carb securely to boot. This link gives the best pictures - took me a while to find - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=20164&post=1040453#POST1040453 EZ Stack: is from American Sport Bike - for an 2000 M2 - tall velocity stack - filter: Just ordered some special order stack filters - 20 bucks and change per filter - you'll need a 3 1/2" hose clamp - outerwears.com - the new Outer Wears Stack filter outerwears.com - the new part number is - " 12-1267-01 Black" - the old style didn't flow enough it seems - FILTERS PARTICULATE TO 0.01" IN SIZE - WAY SMALLER THAN most HUMAN EYEs CAN SEE - the new prototypes allow twice as much flow while still doing a respectable job filtering. Install the stack like you would the stock venturi using the same specks, torque and new gasket. More Carb hotrodding tips! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...2/124119.ht ml? Carb leak check and popping simptoms check: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1127525 451 Other helpfull websites: http://www.bcrider.com/blast1.html http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm With the above and the 2001 Archive - doing your own jetting with 12 bucks worth of jets (45/175) should be a breeze - just remember - bring the float bowl straight down, do not touch the float, change the jets quickly and correctly so float does not mis adjust itself, and then bring the float bowl straight up and secure - your done - enjoy! Homemade Intakes Tony/Rays http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1000537 352 EZ's Two: American Sport Bike Torque Stack and OuterWears Stack filter or the Pro-series and Stack filter - both are braced with springs. Re-setting the TPS at home: My method is very sinmple and works for any bike with tps. Disconnect the battery negative lead. Before I remove the carb I check, note and mark throttle plate and shaft location. A small scribe mark on body and shaft is all you need. Then do the same for the tps hold down. Scribe the hold down and body. Now you can clean and repair carb and put everything back to the factory location. The tps is basically a rheostat. It varies current according to the throttle shaft position using the tps as a locator. The magic box used by h-d merely duplicates voltage ranges of the cpu. If You prefer to check the actual voltage you can use a low voltage step down rheostat switch and multimeter. Set the range according to that put out by the cpu and follow the manual for the voltage you need to read. Another method is to check the resistance across the wireing harness from the tps .Reset the tps to the reading you get when you put everything back together. Here are the Actual Harley part #'s for those jets : 45 pilot = #27170-89 175 main = #27090-89 #48 low speed PN 27165-90 (or DS289320) Pilot Jet (Slow Jet) .................................................. ................................. Part Number Jet Size 27165-90.........48........Perfect 27170-89.........45........Good/perfect for Hi comp piston 27171-89.........42........Lean 27281-92.........40........Very Lean 27117-88.........35........Too LEAN Main Jet (High Speed) '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''' Part Number Jet Size 27105-88..........200........Way Rich 27185-90..........185........Damn Rich 27114-88..........180........Rich 27090-89..........175........Perfect 27115-88..........170........Stock 27116-88..........165........Stock lean 27152-89..........160........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment) 27154-89..........155........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment) JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 to replace OEM JET NEEDLE PN 27637-00Y The carb jetting is not all that hard to do, so just do it! Your Blast will thank you for it. Here is a link on modifying the CV carb: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm The needle shims are probably the most difficult thing to find, you may have to do some rummaging around at a hardware store, I just used some small crimp on eye connections with the crimp cut off, and the remaining washer smoothed out. It came out to .047, close enough. The most difficult proceedure is getting the diaphragm seated in the groove properly. I seat the diaphragm in the back side of the groove cut into the carb and start gently pushing down with the cover, then I take a 6 inch steel rule(Because its flat)and push the remaining diaphragm into the groove from the front side of the carb, when you get it right, the cover sort of slips into place. At all costs avoid using too much downward pressure, or just run the screws into the cover as you will pinch the diaphragm and the carb will not work right. If you pinch and puncture the diaphragm you will need to buy a new slide assembly and they go in the $50+ range. Gentle pressure, don't get in a hurry and you will fast become an expert at it. A product called "Sea Foam" has been recomended for carb cleaning from so many independant sources that I figured I'd post it for your usage as well. Carefull not to touch float, rejet quickly to protect float from mis adjusting self while hanging, be prepared to replace brass bowl screws with new ones - preferably allen heads, be prepared to drill out idle mixture screw plug (pluged by factory for EPA reasons) to get at idle mixture screw. A good link on the topic: http://www.trak-tek.com/products/air...rbJetting.h tml 8. Perform float level check as follows: a. Place carburetor on a clean flat surface with the intake manifold side down. See A of Figure 4-20. b. Tilt the carburetor 15° to 20° in a counter-clockwise direction until float comes to rest. See B of Figure 4-20. NOTE The measurements will be incorrect if the carburetor is tilted less than 15 ° or more than 20 °. c. Using a dial vernier caliper or dial caliper depth gauge, measure the distance from the face of the carburetor flange to the outboard edge of the float. Be careful not to push on float while measuring. d. If the measurement is between 0.413 inch and 0.453 inch (10.49 -11.51 mm), then the float level is within specification. Proceed to step 9. e. If the float level is not within specification, remove the float, and referencing the table below, carefully bend the tab slightly to adjust the float level. For example, to increase the float measurement, bend the tab toward the carburetor body. This will have the affect of decreasing the amount of gas in the float bowl after assembly. f. Install float and check float level again. Repeat procedure as necessary until float level is within specification. Recommended jetting for better performance out of a stock Blast: 45/170, shim needle .05" (aprox. 2 brass #4 machined washers), air screw at 2 2/3rds out from light bottom - of course your gas mileage will be less - the first step into the dark side! GT - JBOTDS! EZ Note: Laura G. Ran a RamFlo 200 intake with spring support and is very happy with it and its performance in the LSR Salt - and its non interference with her knee - nice. EZ Yes, however, the gent is talking about a Dyno Jet Kit - their jets are numbered differently from the Kehin stock numbers. Here is my usual carb work steps:Loosen Das boot, carefully remove float bowl and replace jets,put bowl back on, drill out Idle Mixture screw plug - go only 1/8th of an inch in with drill bit - its just solder blocking so careful check first also because plug has been known to fall out - turn in till bottomed - gently, then turn 2 2/3 turns out,look at the top of your carb - you'll see 4 screws - the right front corner screw (facing the front of the bike from the seat area)is also held in place with a bracket that is attached to the side of the carb - this screw is a real biatch - try penertrating oil and a #3 philips - what ever feels tightest, if nothing works, then take a dremel and a cutoff wheel and turn that puppy into a flat head screw, it will come out then, do not remove though just loosen, and reuse the screw(even if modified to loosen) - the screw on the side of the carb needs to be loosened enough to shift the bracket out of the way to remove the top of the carb off - do that carefully so you don't loose the spring that sits on a spacer that sits on the needle, pull the needle out add the 2 washers to the needle and put it back in(install washers/shims), reasemble rest and carefully put the lid back on so the diaphram doesn't tear, don't forget to tighten that side screw also. Carb done. ================================================== ================================================== =================== For technical information and discussion of Buell P3 BLAST! Rider Ergonomics - Seats, Footpegs, Controls and Grips as well as their repair/maintenance/upgrades. Universal Pegs: (foot pegs that just need a hole for the bolt to go through parallel the peg - screwing into the peg) - LHS - RC51, R6(99-05), F4, F4i. BOTH SIDES: EX500, GS500, F2, F3, NT650, MILLE/R, FACTORY/R, 750/900SS (91-98) CFMotorsports - 06-0300 - Standard Footpeg (BH bolt) The above is usefull info when making your own rearsets or replacing the factory units which would then be just a mater of removing, drilling a hole and mounting. Hand Guard Installation using OEM Parts: I wasn't sure were to put it but, the part numbers for the CRG ROLL-A-CLICK ADJUSTABLE LEVERS are AN-621 Clutch all buells except S2 and 1125 No other cross references listed. AN-521 Brake for Tube and Blast (not XB) Also found on KAWASAKI ZX6 ‘98-‘04, ZX6R '03, ZX6RR '03-'04,ZX10RR '04-'05,ZX12R '04-'05, SUZUKI GSXR600 ‘97-‘03,GSXR750 ‘96-‘03,GSXR1000 ‘01-‘04, GSXR1300 Hayabusa '99-'07, SV 650 '99-'07,SV 1000 '03-'07, TL-R '98-'03, TL-S '97-'01 TRIUMPH Daytona 955i '04-'06, Speed Triple '04'-06 , YAMAHA R6 '99-'02, R6S '03-'04, FZS 1 '01-'05 (Taken from CRG application guide. For use as X-ref) Erik O's instructions for installing the Buell Blast Windshield: These are what I wrote up when I sold mine. I may have pictures if you need them, but the installation is very simple. Tools needed: 3/16 Allen wrench 1/8 Allen wrench 3/32 Allen wrench 7/16" or 11mm wrench Remove 4 bolts holding the flyscreen on. Save 2 bolts you will need them for the windshield. Remove the 2 bolts holding the headlight bracket on (early Blasts use bolts only, later Blasts use bolts and nuts-save the nuts). Do not remove bracket. Using supplied bolts and the nuts that came off the headlight bracket, bolt the windshield bracket on with the swivel piece up and pointed forwards. Do one side at a time otherwise headlight assembly may slip. Loosely install the 2 flyscreen bolts through windshield into the 2 bottom flyscreen holes in the bracket. Be careful not to let the windshield fall forward as it could suffer damage. Install the 2 supplied bolts and rubber grommets in the top 2 windshield holes. Each top windshield bolt should use 2 grommets. Tighten down the 4 bolts. If your Blast has been dropped the lower windshield holes may not line up exactly with holes in the flyscreen bracket. but they are easily bent to the correct position. Do Not bolt the windshield on without using grommets on the windshield bolts, cracking may result. ================================================== ================================================== =========== An aftermarket belt is available now for the Blast. I do not know if its comparable to the "lifetime" belts now stock on other models. It is listed as a 1" belt (which it isnt), but they also list 20mm belts (which it is) for other HD models From the Drag Specialties catalogue: REAR DRIVE BELTS •Carbon fiber reinforced Goodyear engineered Falcon SPC™ belts offer up to 33 percent more tensile strength than conventional aramid reinforced belts •High-temperature rubber compound offers excellent flex and long service life •Fabric reinforced belt tooth surfaces improve wear resistance •Durable material construction is designed to withstand belt-penetrating debris without breaking NOTE: No warranty claims are made or implied. PART # DESCRIPTION SUG. RETAIL 1 1/2” BELTS 1204-0035 125-tooth belt for custom applications $189.95 1204-0037 126-tooth belt for 80-86 FX, 82-84 FLH (domestic); repl. OEM #40003-79 189.95 1204-0039 127-tooth belt for 89-92 FXST, FLST (international); repl OEM #40010-89 174.95 1204-0041 128-tooth belt for 93 FXST, FLST (domestic), 91-93 FXD, FXDWG (international); repl. OEM #40012-90 189.95 1204-0043 130-tooth belt for95-99 FXST, FLST (domestic), 94 FXST, FLST, 94-95 FXD, FXDWG (Swiss); repl. OEM #40017-94 174.95 1204-0046 132-tooth belt for 86-92, 94 FXST, FLST (domestic), 89-93 FLT, FXR (international); repl. OEM #40023-86 189.95 1204-0050 133-tooth belt for 91-01 FXD, FXDWG (domestic), 94-95 FLT (Swiss); repl. OEM #40015-90 199.95 1204-0054 135-tooth belt for custom applications 174.95 1204-0058 136-tooth belt for 85-96 FLT, FLHT, 85-94 FXR (domestic); repl. OEM #40001-85 189.95 1204-0062 139-tooth belt for 97-03 FLT, FLHT, FLHR, FLTR (domestic); repl. OEM #40024-97 199.95 1 1/8” BELTS 1204-0036 125-tooth belt for custom applications 169.95 1204-0038 126-tooth belt for custom applications 169.95 1204-0040 127-tooth belt for custom applications 169.95 1204-0042 128-tooth belt for 91-03 XL, 94-02 Buell (except Blast) (domestic/international); repl OEM #40022-91 169.95 1204-0044 130-tooth belt for 07-09 FXD, FXDWG (Japan); repl. OEM #40048-07 169.95 1204-0047 132-tooth belt for 06 FXD, FXDWG (international), repl. OEM #40594-06 199.95 1204-0051 133-tooth belt for 00-06 FXD/T. 02-06 FXD/FXDWG (domestic); repl. OEM #40015-00 169.95 1204-0055 135-tooth belt for 00-06 FLST, 00-05 FXST (domestic/international); repl OEM #40307-00 174.95 1204-0059 136-tooth belt for 04-06 XL 883 (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40570-04 169.95 1204-0063 139-tooth belt for04-06 FLHT, FLHR, FLTR (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40024-04 199.95 1” BELTS 1204-0045 130-tooth belt for custom applications 149.95 1204-0048 132-tooth belt for custom applications 199.95 1204-0052 133-tooth belt for 07-09 FLST/C/N, FLSTSC, FXSTD, FXCW/C (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40058-07 199.95 1204-0056 135-tooth belt for custom applications 149.95 1204-0060 136-tooth belt for 07-09 XL 883 (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40371-07 169.95 1204-0060 136-tooth belt for 07 FLHT, FLHR, FLHX, FLTR (Japan); repl. OEM #40056-07 169.95 1204-0061 137-tooth belt for 07-08 FLHT/R/X, FLTR (domestic); repl. OEM #40024-07 169.95 1204-0061 137-tooth belt for 07-09 XL 1200 (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40591-07 169.95 1204-0064 139-tooth belt for 01-08 Buell Blast (domestic); repl. OEM #G0500.01A7 199.95 20MM BELTS 1204-0049 132-tooth belt for 07-09 FXST, FLST, FXCW (Japan); repl. OEM #40074-07 199.95 1204-0053 133-tooth belt for 07-09 FXST/B/C. FLSTF, FLSTSB (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40073-07 199.95 1204-0057 135-tooth belt for 06 FXST (domestic/international); repl. OEM 40655-06 169.95 ================================================== ================================================== ==================== Roadside Reference: Total time < 1 hour. Most of which was spent making sure the bike was supported for wheel removal. The combination of 2x4 and a cement patio block to go under the side stand and a el-cheap-o hydraulic jack under the right passenger peg mount. Two people required to steady while jacking to lift rear wheel. Loosen axle lock nut to finger tight prior to lifting. Remove axle nut, lockwasher and washer. Slide axle to the left about half way. Turn while pulling makes it easier. Don't pull it over on yourself. Remove right side large spacer. One person support rim while other person removes axle. Pull axle all way out. Remove left short spacer. Slide caliper off rotor. Put something to keep pads spread out. (carpenter shims work great) Allow wheel to go forward and remove belt. Roll wheel out to the rear, you'll have to tilt to clear lower fender. With a long punch or similar knock out bad bearing by hitting inner race from opposite side. Slide inner spacer out then knock out other bearing by hitting on inner race from opposite side. Knocking in new bearings tap ONLY the outter race and keep it as even as possible. Best to use a socket or similar object that is just slightly smaller than the OD of outter bearing race. You can tell it is fully seated because the sound will change as you are tapping it in. Flip the wheel over and INSTALL the inner spacer then tap in the other bearing. The axle can be installed through the bearings and inner spacer to make sure it is aligned while you are installing last bearing. Make sure you have not damaged the grease seals during installation. Make sure the inner race spins without a grinding or a lumpy feeling. Re-install in the bike by reverse procedure. Ensure the caliper locking lug engages the tab on swingarm. Pump up the rear brake prior to going for a test ride. There ya have it. Pictures in the Photo section. The bearing numbers are E6204, Out of stock at both HD dealers locally. Napa auto parts had some for $22 each. Honda shop had for $10 each Local Honda dealer has a double sealed bearing $10 each #96150-62040-10 Honda PN: 96150-62040-10 6204 is the basic bearing number that can be had at just about any good industrial bearing supplier. NAPA (the OEM 6204-2rs1 bearing is on the right and the NAPA 6204-2rsj) store. Say, gimme a 6204 bearing with a grease seal on both sides. They say no problem, got two of them in stock. $22 each. I say "OUCH Make sure you get one with grease seals on both sides. I think I cold accomplish this alongside the road with a BFR (rock) and a metal rod for driving out bearing. Socket extension or 8" piece of rebar. ================================================== ================================================== =============== BEARINGS === must have a rubber seal on each side of bearing rear HD -- (E0041T) -new # Honda # (96150 - 62040 - 10) ensure double seals - 1 on each side NAPA Part number P62042RJS stock # P6204-2RJSJ upc: 10777962269437 @9.99 is the correct numbers The SKF #s are as follows: (rear) 6204-2RS JEM, FRONT ++++++ HD - (E0001T) (front) 62203-2RS1. ================================================== ================================================== == BREAKS 6800, 6799 - 00-09 BLAST Front Nissin Caliper Brake Pads 00-09 Blast Front Brake Pads. #6800 Ferodo CP911 for maximum braking peformance, Good even for Street application due to high heat saturation of Buell Single Disc system. #6799 Ferodo Semi-metallics pads are more economical and easy on the disc. #6800 00-07 Brake Pads Front Ferodo CP911 Blast #6799 01-07 Brake Pads Front Ferodo S.S. Blast 5431, 5431S, 5433, 6109, 5434 - 98-10 Rear Nissin Caliper Brake Pads Brake pads for 98-10 Nissin Single Piston rear Caliper used on ALL XB and tube frame Buells since 98. #6109 Lyndall Gold+ carbon/Kevlar Semi-metallics give good progressive feel and softer attack. #5431S Ferodo, 5434 Galfer or 5433HH sintered pads (same type as OEM pads) will give greater bite but less progressive feel. #5433 EBC Black or #5431 Ferodo Platinum semi-metallics work fine and are more economical. (Will not fit the 1125 series.) #5431S Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Sintered #5434 Brake Pads, Rear, Galfer Sintered #5431 Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Platinum #6109 Brake Pads, Rear, Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar #5433 Brake Pads, Rear, EBC Black #5433HH Brake Pads, Rear, EBC HH #5431S Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Sintered - $32.95 #5434 Brake Pads, Rear, Galfer Sintered - $35.54 #5431 Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Platinum - $32.95 #6109 Brake Pads, Rear, Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar - $55.00 #5433 Brake Pads, Rear, EBC Black - $25.95 #5433HH Brake Pads, Rear, EBC HH - $36.95 16152 - Crush Washer, Copper, For 10mm Banjo Bolt 10mm Copper Crush washers for brake line fittings. Once a copper crush washer has been used, it is work hardened and scored and will no longer properly hold pressure. Crush washers should be replaced any time the banjo bolt is loosened. Price:$0.95 ================================================== ===================================== 17309, 17308 - Turn Signals, OEM, XB XB OEM Turn Signals. The Left Front is the same as the Right Rear, and Right Front is the same as the Left Rear, on all Firebolt models. The front turn signals on other models (X1, XB-S Lightning, XB12SS Lightning Long, and Ulysses models) have longer stalks. They look less bug like if replaced with these, though they might not technically meet separation requirements in some vehicle codes. Note: These look just like X1/Blast turn signals, but have 8mm stalks instead of 10mm stalks. They CAN be used on X1s and Blasts without any problems, but the stud will be smaller than the hole it goes into. Price: $14.40 ============================================== 17059 - Nut, Flywheel Output Shaft 95-07 Tube frame and XB models. This nut fits the main flywheel output shaft and holds the rotor and primary drive sprocket on. This nut likes to come loose, not a bad idea to replaced it every few removal cycles. Be sure to clean the threads thoroughly, use plenty of red loctite, and torque it right using the primary locking bar, or you may be back into the primary searching for a strange knocking sound. Note: The service manual USED to specify 190 ft-lbs for this nut. A service bulletin has changed this to 240 ft-lbs. Price: $4.00 17121 - Key, Pinion Gear/Oil Pump drive, 00-07 models Key, Pinion Gear/Oil Pump drive, 00-07 tube frame and XB models. Will not fit pre-2000 tuber frame models. 2000+ key is shown on left, pre-2000 key shown on right 17129 - Gasket, Cam cover, 00-07 XB and BLAST Gasket, Cam cover, 00-07 XB and BLAST. Note: Removal of the cam cover requires rocker box removal, call before removing this cover if you have any questions. Price:$13.00 17101 - 03-10 Gasket, Clutch Cover, XB series 03-10 Gasket, Clutch Cover, XB series. You can often reuse these gaskets a few times, but then they should be replaced. Price:$4.50 17520 - Intake Manifold Coupler Boot, Blast 2000-2010 Blast Intake Manifold Coupler Boot. When folks use aftermarket air cleaner setups on a Blast (i.e., see 5637), this part takes a beating. Cracked boots should be replaced ASAP, as intake leaks will cause very lean conditions. Price:$15.50 5637 - Tall Velocity Stack Fits the West Tek and Buell Pro Race air cleaners, and any aftermarket cleaner with a 3" thick filter. Note: Does not fit new #A17005 and #A17000 improved race ovals, as the venturi ring feature is now milled into the back plate on the new version race ovals. Though not originally designed for the P3 Blast, many Blast owners use this on the mouth of their carb when removing the airbox by clamping on apod type filter. The Outside Diameter is 3.34 inches. Price:$20.00 | ||
| Ghostedrider |
the previous posts were saved for my own use from this site and the other , and edited for my ease of use. it is lacking in a lot of areas but is all that i can re contribute to the community , written by the community..... hopefully it may help some one.. | ||
| Ghostedrider |
i also have the 2003 /p3 service Manuel - blast windshield install - buell products catalog - intake ring splitter - 2007 p3 parts catalog - comtec rb gasket info - rocker arms push rod ipb gaskets - buell service bulletin 8029-263576 - cv 40 notes - 598935 - slide carb valve buell .......all previously posted pdf files saved. if needed just post and ill transfer copy's to someone here who can archive them here | ||
| Crackhead |
Once again the redheaded step children got kicked in the nuts again. First by our own father, then by his dad and now by our brothers. If BWB would ever upgrade the forum. This could be the place for us to grow and develop. | ||
| Jetlee |
Thanks Ghosted. I emailed BFT and asked for the database. I can host it while we gleen info from it, at least. This whole acquisistion was handled like a bunch of bullcrap. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - just poof! - lot of valuable info - poof! - no more! - man that place was jumping with different Blast mods, with documented how to's., so many solid hi-tech contributors - just poof - ahhh well - back to - Das Boot! EZ | ||
| Blake |
Good reason to stick with the tried and true, eh EZ? BadWeB shall endure.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Amen to that! | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah, but those guys where really cooking in the tech section, I was learning a lot of stuff, and posting the really needed basic stuff here from there. However BF was definitely the cutting edge for mods, tech, and the willingness to find out that all important future Blastard question - how can we make it work? - a - funny enough to say, but still truly asked question - so these guys have been true Dark Lords - going into little or none charted territory, using our bikes as labs - lol - and producing some wild Blasts! - EZ | ||
| Jetlee |
 Can we make it work? With enough imagination and fabrication, we can make anything work! | ||
| Ezblast |
Back from the ashes, back in Black! The Home of Blast Modification Tech is now rocking! http://buellridersonline.com/ This is not a plug but notice for those who enjoyed the forum. Goodness knows that about half the folk here are already there, and visa versa - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 07, 2012) | ||
| Sycho |
Can't get the link to work EZ. | ||
| Ezblast |
Sorry - fixed! EZ | ||
| Jetlee |
Even if it was a plug, I have no problem rep'ing BadWeb there to make up for it. Most members there are members here already anyways. Even if they're not yet, we link this forum without a second thought; so they will be soon enough. (Message edited by JetLee on April 07, 2012) |
