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Zroknwn
| | Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 11:52 am: | 
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Not out of the woods yet apparently, took on a 30 min ride and I see a yellowish liquid when I got to my destination. It's all over the kickstand and the left swing arm. Anyone have ideas? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 02:34 pm: |
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Is there an open hose pointed towards the ground? It would be the PCV hose rerouted out of air box.
The second option would be to look for a trans leak. Or where is this fluid coming from?
Yellow is an odd color to leak. I'm thinking oil mixed with water. |
Th3wizard
| | Posted on Monday, May 09, 2016 - 12:02 am: |
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Vent hose in footpeg bracket not capped? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, May 09, 2016 - 01:15 am: |
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Seen the picture and it appears to be capped.
Maybe it wasn't capped, but now it is and the fluid was from before (when it was uncapped)? |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Friday, May 13, 2016 - 01:20 am: |
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The cap has been on it since I got the bike, never uncapped it but I have washed it. Didn't get it too wet when I did it I don't think, but know knows it's quite subjective. I'll change fluids in primary and oil just to be on the safe side. Anything that may help me out in making it easier later on? Can you remove the rear foot peg bracket that you have to remove in order to get to the primary fill? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, May 13, 2016 - 04:31 am: |
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Just loosen will do.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, May 13, 2016 - 10:13 am: |
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The y-frame is a pain in the ass to loosen or remove. It's at this time you should also do a full clutch adjustment, if you don't want to remove the y-frame again. (You can change the trans/primary oil without pulling the y-frame).
Engine oil w/filter is 1.5 qts. Use more than. 1 1/2 qts and you'll overfill. |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 04:09 pm: |
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I finally was able to get my exhaust upgraded as of recently but am still having issues with backfiring while I ride the bike at any point within the ride. I have done nothing since the last update on the carb of the bike, was thinking of changing the main jet to the 175 that I got before since I replaced the exhaust with a more free flowing one. Any thoughts on the putting in the higher jet?
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Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 07:51 pm: |
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Main jet won't help. You can be way off and it will still run.Back to the beginning:
When did this start? |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 09:16 pm: |
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It's been happening almost since I've owned the bike, the first month I had it it didn't have the backfire or (burping) while riding but after the first time my exhaust cracked it has never went away.
The things that I have done since the exhaust cracked the first time:
slightly pulled apart Carb and adjusted bowl gasket
replaced slow jet
shimmed needle
adjusted primary chain limiting screw
adjusted fuel/air mixer screw
replaced boot 2 times
replaced roll over valve
replaced vent valve
replaced exhaust
None of these things have changed the backfiring or loss of power during any length of time ride. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, August 28, 2017 - 12:58 pm: |
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It's never had much power?
If you're pulling hair out its probably an ignition module. It could be timing, so that needs to be checked first. But random backfiring is usually the module. It is uncommon that ignition modules give a direct indication of failure if the bike still runs - so it's often a process of elimination and a gamble when replacing the ignition module (when you've replaced a few, you learn the signs).
Unless you missed something.
It's a 2000 with about 5000 miles? It's probably the ignition module.
Common failures for that year are the module, oil pump drive gear (it only has 2 qts max in the engine?) and rear wheel pulley (should be 80 teeth. If it's 73 teeth it MUST be replaced asap).
It should have a new plug by now (tip is still screwed on tight?)?If it was kept outside it will probably need a new spark plug wire.
Sorry, I can't re read everything on my phone.
(Message edited by Gearheaderiko on August 28, 2017) |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Monday, August 28, 2017 - 02:32 pm: |
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Not a problem Gearhead, I has power and I'm able to hit about 90 on the interstate (if i want to) just not without going though spells of backfiring and loss of power.
The bike is an 03 with roughly 6000 miles on it now, I don't actually know the correct mileage on the bike due to the speed sensor crapping out on me.
The original owner replaced the voltage regulator not too long before I purchased the bike. When I got the bike I don't think it had the issue of backfiring until I was messing around with the primary adjustment due to not getting above 50-65 MPH. I am about to drain engine oil and replace the filter and oil so I know that it has the 1.5 qts that it's supposed to have. The rear sprocket is an 80 Tooth and I did replaced the spark-plug while doing general maintenance on the bike about 6-8 months ago. It's not kept outside persay it is kept under our carport closest to the house though, but does sometimes get water on it due to the nature of rain in the area. I'll check the tightness on the spark-plug , I didn't realize that I would need to ensure the plug was tightened.
To answer your question about it starting and running, She starts just fine unless I try to start her back up within a couple of minutes of shutting her off. She likes to hesitate and burp when starting from getting gas or going to the store close by. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, August 28, 2017 - 03:32 pm: |
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Just the nipple on top of the spark plug needs to be checked. If not Loctited, they tend to come loose. HOWEVER, not all plugs have the screw on nipple (so you'll break the plug trying to screw or unscrew it).
Let me know about the nipple. Thanks. |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 08:59 pm: |
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So I found out that the tip of the spark-plug was off the top and I could remove it very easily. what type of loctite should I use in order to help keep it on the plug? Or is there a specific plug that I might be able to order that is an iridium that you don't have to loctite?
I also come across the crankcase breather extremely loose so I am going to look into getting another one and the gasket that goes around the plug.
I did come across a hole in the middle of the Jug and was wondering if there was supposed to be something there or is it supposed to be open to see into?
Thank you soo much Gearhead
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Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 02:14 am: |
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That hole is normal.
Red or blue Loctite. If you have to choose-choose RED. Loctiting is normal.
Just get a new PCV gasket. Avoid dropping the old one in the engine-they can be very brittle. |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Friday, September 08, 2017 - 02:06 pm: |
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Alrighty so I loctited the Cap on the plug and let it sit for a couple of hours then put everything back together last night. I then got up for work and took it to work, it seemed to have gotten worse since I fixed that issue. However, I did notice that when I got to work the carb had worked itself almost completely off of Das Boot. I have since cinched it back up flush and tightened it back down but still am having the backfire and loss of power. I will be in touch with Dan to see if he has a superboot ready to go so that I can change out and possibly get a better seal that on the stock boot.
I did notice that I am missing a bolt/screw at the bottom of the airbox on the carb side of the bike. could this be causing enough flex for the carb to work itself off the boot or am I just becoming hysterical about every little thing? |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Friday, September 08, 2017 - 06:56 pm: |
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Update:
Drove the bike home from work today and tightened up Das Boot before leaving. I had a lot of popping while riding and when I got home I was able to pull off the carb with little effort. So it seems that my problem will be to brace the carb in some way or fashion.
For Das Boot I should be able to torque it down and it be super tight to the carb correct? It should not have any play or atleast not have the ability to be pulled off by hand with little effort. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 02:10 pm: |
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So, what kind of air filter are you using?
You can tighten the boot too tight. If the rubber starts to "mushroom", you're going too tight and it will leak. Bracing won't help this problem. Carb should be able to move (or bounce) if unbraced, but you shouldn't be able to just pull the carb off.
Stock boot? Is it over stiff or very rubbery (which indicates a very old boot or a boot that has been compromised with solvent or oil)?
Have you pulled the boot completely off and checked it?
DONT EVER USE SEALER ON A BOOT.
I, along with many others, have run the carb unbraced for years. It will not cause immediate failure unless you're running a very heavy air cleaner. Running too heavy an air cleaner will cause eventual failure or if you run very bumpy roads. But bracing the carb will not cure a leak. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 02:18 pm: |
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Using a stock airbox on a good running bike and the stock boot is almost unfailable. Using all the screws is a good idea, one screw shouldn't matter, unless its just the perfect wrong screw. Carb shouldn't pull right off though.
Is the plug wire tight on the spark plug?
You didn't over tighten the nipple and crack the plug? Or close the gap down by accident on installation? |
Zroknwn
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 11:39 pm: |
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Gearhead
I'm using the stock air box and stock filter on a newish boot. I say newish because I got it about 8 months ago and have put about 300-400 miles with it on the bike. Plugwire was a little loose for my tastes but not loose enough to pop off from an smooth interstate ride. The carb is able to just pull off with minimal resistance from the boot. The boot still feels rubbery and useable, although I did notice a tear on the inside of the boot but it does not protrude though the boot. Going to look into pick up one in case that is the real problem.
I've stalled quite a few iridium sparkplugs and may have at the very beginning tightened it a little excessive at first but not enough to crack any portion of the plug and the gap is still within spec on the plug. |
