| Author | Message | ||||
     Kauai1800 |
Aloha Guys, Here's a good reference about the changes required by the EPA to gasoline blends throughout the year. http://www.theoildrum.com/story/2006/9/13/234043/4 31http://www.theoildrum.com/story/2006/9/13/234043/4 31 It's interesting tho contemplate the effects of using gas you bought in November when you try and start the bike up in June or vice versa. | ||||
| Bottlefedbuell |
Hey All. I figured while we are expecting some snow this week I would try to re-do my manual choke design. I came across this on Dennis Kirk. Only $17 and change. DK Part #19287 Should tuck up real nice under the tank at 23". And the 90bend should just clear the spine w/o kinking. Can't wait to update progress.  | ||||
| Ezblast |
Will definitely need more pics of this project! EZ | ||||
| Bottlefedbuell |
So, after hours of racking my brain, again, with trying to figure out a better way to convert over to manual choke. This is what I came up with: First, I wanted to make do with the 'stock' parts of the auto-enricher, mainly to save money and trips to AutoZone... I did however require 2 purchases. 1) The Choke Cable Dennis Kirk DK Part #19287 @$20.00 shipped. 2) A Pack of Cable locks from AutoZone. @$5.00 In the 'HELP' section. Pack of 3 different sizes, I only used the 5/16" (middle size) one. Here is stock setup of auto-enricher.  Here is all pieces I used to convert to manual.  First drill hole in back of unit for cable to secure to. You will notice it has a perfect recess where the heater element was to drop your adjuster nut into, and Spin the nut tight to the cable stop. This is the silverish cup w/o-ring. I drilled an 1/8" hole from the inside through the bottom, but ride the drill bit against the edge. This is where the cable will come thru and we need to keep the center clear for the roll pin.  First, drill a 3/64" hole thru both sides of the plastic plunger, Right up against the bottom flange. This hole is where the pusher rod(roll pin) from the wax unit will go to secure everything.  Now to drill this small hole, I used a metal file to flatten out enough to drill straight thru. Now, we want to drill the metal parts perpendicular (90deg) to the offset hole in the bottom cup and the side holes in the cable lock. I also opened up the side cable lock hole to 3/64",it was hard getting the cable out.  Here is where small fingers help. I cut the original spring in half, and put on each side of unit to help equalize any tension differences. Install one half spring in back of unit w/cable strand thru it. pull the cable end thru the cup and cable lock and out the side, adjust to where the roll pin hole is just about inside of the main unit before tightening down.  I filed the pin down a bit to the diameter of the flange on the plunger. Pop The plunger onto the cable lock assembly and push roll pin through. Install second half of spring and screw the cap on a little bit.  Adjustments are minimal. The throw of the cable only allows about 2/3 choke, when on, but it started right up today, upon assembly, and its like 14deg in Michigan. You will want to adjust the 'choke off' position to just barely closed, to get the best position. I have yet to mount the lever, but have a couple possible ideas, ran out of time for the day. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
SPECTACULAR!!! THIS is what makes Badweb great. Someone taking the time out to do this and fully document it all. PS for those running over rich slow jets (46,48 or 50-cringe) you wont need the last bit of choke pull. | ||||
| Ezblast |
That is a terrific job! | ||||
| Ezblast |
When can we expect the finale - and see it assembled, and then tested - what a great idea - very cool old school style! EZ | ||||
| Bottlefedbuell |
Sorry all, been a hectic week. Haven't made it out to the shed since last weekend. Its COLD!!!! But we are expecting a warmup here in michigan this weekend, they say its gonna get to 40!!!!!! WOW! Break out the shorts!!! LOL. I will totally get back on it this weekend, want to ride to work next week, and enjoy the fresh air a little. On a side note is there a way to put this in its own thread? Might make it easier to search for it. | ||||
| Swampy |
40 degrees but two feet of snow is going to melt also. The ground is still frozen so at night the roads will freeze again. I don't mean to be a negative Nellie, I've done it before....ride in the winter. | ||||
| Bottlefedbuell |
 So, the cable i ordered is about 8 inches too long for a clean mount. I had to weave it through the frame to keep it from kinking, but over all not too much hassle. Since I still have all of this extra plastic on the bike, I decided to mount the lever here on the air scoop. | ||||
| Ezblast |
Will do - just waiting for the test ride! EZ | ||||
| Bottlefedbuell |
So, it was definetely a LOT warmer at 6 this morning than 4 this afternoon. The bike ran perfectly, although I am sure my neighbors weren't as excited as I was. | ||||
| Mrphotoman |
i am trying to jet my carb, i got the main jet replaced but the pilot jet will not come out. it just keeps turning. what am i doing wrong? | ||||
| Swampy |
It may be that the jet is gummed up in the jet well, try spraying some carb cleaner in it and then try shaking it out. | ||||
| Mrphotoman |
Thanks, i will try tomorrow it is dark out now. Also, when i was taking the main jet out the entire jet piece came out then I screwed it back in and used a wrench to hold it on while i backed just the main jet out. did i screw anything up when I did that lol? nothing fell out. | ||||
| Swampy |
You should be OK, that holds the emulsion tube in the carb and if you didn't get it right it wouldn't go together. | ||||
| Mrphotoman |
okay thanks so much i really appreciate it. i could see the needle? when i backed out the entire main jet but it screwed right back in. the carb is on the bike, i was trying to change out the jets without removing the carb. hopefully i can get that pilot jet out without taking the carb off. After I loosened the jet and kept screwing it out i tried to just turn it back in and it felt like it just kept turning in that direction too. does it just sound like it dropped down part way then stuck? Thanks again i appreciate it. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. Its seems it just fell and got stuck (I dont really see how thats possible, but....??) | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
There is a small piece that can fall out if you unscrew the main jet with the emulsion tube. Its a small round part that the needle rides through. It can be seen through the mouth off the carb. It doesnt always fall out, but it can and has. | ||||
| Ezblast |
Use Mechanical tweezers and pull it out! EZ | ||||
| Mrphotoman |
I got it fixed, just when I was ready to break out the drill something made me try a different screwdriver. I then discovered never to buy a cheap screwdriver at big lots: http://www.precisionscrewdrivers.net/images/precis ion-screwdriver-set.jpg When I thought I felt the jet break loose and keep turning it was actually the damn POS screwdriver turning in the handle. As soon as I used a different screwdriver the jet came right out lol. I was honestly moving the tools around to pull off the carb, thinking the jet was stripped or broken off in there and I was going to drill it out. I got the bike back together and it runs good now. It idles good and I took it up to 90 with the gf on the back (her bike) and it runs smooth now. My bike makes more than 3x the hp but i admit this little buell is a lot of fun to ride lol. Thanks everyone for the help on the mysterious stuck jet. | ||||
| Mrphotoman |
i rejetted my carb but did not shim the needle or drill out the idle mixture screw. the bike idles fine, does adjusting the idle mixture screw simply raise the idle or does it affect the a/f ratio? and does shimming the needle simply give better throttle response or does it affect the a/f ratio as well? Thanks | ||||
| Ezblast |
shimming gets rid of the flat spot just after idle, and if your getting popcorn sound on decel, to lean, need to turn the idle mixture screw. Most everything on the carb affects af. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 17, 2011) | ||||
| Myappleguy |
has anyone tried the CVP Velocity Needle from www.harley-performance.com ??? and where does one get a shim for the needle ??? is there a washer that can be picked up from a hardware store that would work?? | ||||
| Ezblast |
Two # 4 washers - EZ | ||||
| Myappleguy |
Thanx EZ, two #4 brass washers worked perfectly. You guys rock! It runs really sweet now. Totaly opened up its potential and can get some real power out of it now. Next upgrade already on way. Sportster black shift lever.  | ||||
| Crackhead |
check the boot. I am guessing it is not seated properly all the way or is riped. | ||||
| Imblasted |
If only it were that. But no its not the boot. | ||||
| Thumpe |
Yost powertube CHEAP alternative!!! I found this on CV Performance site it's on sale right now for $14.95 shipped!!! Says it make fuel into a fine mist like the yost i haven't ordered or try this but for $14.95 is alot better then $100 for the yost kit that you can't use nothing but the powertube! http://www.cv-performance.com/Carburetor_Parts-CVP _Velocity_Emulsion_Tube.html | ||||
| Imblasted |
how do i post a video? | ||||
| Imblasted |
i took a look at the diaphragm everything looks normal. I put the main jet and the silver piece back in and not too tight. the small jet is in there tight. as soon as the vacuum builds and opens the slide it dies and the slide does a little dance. i have a video but don't know what to do with it... | ||||
| Swampy |
I have not used one, but I have done a little experimenting with separators similar to the Scary Fast Power Now Plus separator plate. I believe it will not help any horse power gains, but will help with throttle response at the lower RPM range. I am being very general here but I think the only way to get more horsepower/torque from the stock Blast engine is to have higher compression ratio and better cams. The carb is more than adequate to handle anything the Blast can dish out....other than being a bit lean as it came from the factory. | ||||
| Ezblast |
Yes - definitely helps throttle response! EZ | ||||
| Ezblast |
By the way Thumpe - nice link for parts! EZ | ||||
| Ezblast |
Doing the main jet, did you take the emulsion tube and jet seat out with the main jet, or just the main jet? When doing the needle did you make sure it was flat on the washers, and check the diaphragm for rips, holes, or pinching. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
I looked for wholes and rips. I took out the jet and the emulsion tube that it screws into and the silver tube out as well. I did notice that you can over tighten the brass part causing the needle to bind. So its not super tight, andit is not loose. I did not put any spacers under the needle. The boot is tight, and I sprayed it with an aerosol accelerant and it didn't effect the idle. I am going to try turning the air/fuel mixture 2 turns out from super light seating | ||||
| Ezblast |
Did you but the silver tube back in facing the right way is the question - that is where a lot of oops happen. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
If you put it in one way it sticks out into the throtte body, and the other way the emulsion tube won't screw in, correct? I have it sticking out into the throttle body, I feel like it stuckout further before I took it apart. | ||||
| Ezblast |
First - the needle is in the top part of the carb, that is what would get the washers, make sure the rubber part of the slide is seated correctly, that the intake boot is seated correctly, make sure jets are in and snug - don't touch float - make sure you are getting fuel. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
its definitely getting fuel. i have not spaced the needle yet. unless there is some special way of seating the rubber part, its in correct. i pushed it into the seat and put the cap on. the float wouldn't allow it to run and then die immediately after pulling the throttle tho b/c even when i turn off the gas it runs for a while. i may've touched it but i didnt touch with any force that i remember. | ||||
| Imblasted |
wait, i don't have to do anything with the tps. i didn't remove it... just making sure | ||||
| Ezblast |
Review a list of the things you have done, the mistake is in that list. Go over it all step by step, and make sure its right. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
ok ive redone everything. It doesn't add up!! i am letting the diaphragm dry, b/c thats what the manual says the trick is. it starts fine and idles great, but stalls as soon as the throttle is pulled. Sorry im repeating myself. is there any chance that the primary or pawl adjustment is doing anything here? im out of ideas. i checked the diaphragm with a bright flashlight, no holes or tears. i pulled the boot it is good. the spark plug can't be the problem b/c it idles. is there anything that kills spark...damn could it be the nuetral safety...nope b/c it should let me rev in or out of neutral. any other ideas? i guess when i put it together im going to have to shim the needle. Thank you for your help this is getting a little rediculous, im working on the bike more than riding. Altho I have done quiet a bit of riding on it and when it runs right it is a BLAST! (sometimes i think that i'm punny) im just thinking here, lets say the primary was jammed. Would it still start? what about if i adjusted the clutch too tight at the primary would that make it stall with the throttle? any other ideas? i guess i need another mechanic here with me when i work on this thing. I am used to working on cars, which i thought were more difficult, but for some reason im starting to not believe that. | ||||
| Ezblast |
Spark plug wire is tight? Kick stand is disabled - cut and twist wires together, disable clutch safety - flip center diode in fuse box, safeties are now ruled out. Assume primary is fine for now. How do you know it is not the boot? Is it new? EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
yea the boot is new and i pulled it just to make sure it wasnt broken. the plug wire hasn't rattled off in a very long time, and i ordered my NGK IX27B tonight. i flipped the diode and i am putting a jumper in the connector for the k/s sensor, so i can put it back if that doesn't make a dif. unless you say just cut and twist. whats the point of the k/s sensor? ive rebuilt this carb countless times now, minus removing the float, which i checked and it is still adjusted correctly. i really am starting to think there is something randomly jamming in the trans, b/c sometimes it will not change gears, and if i keep the clutch pulled it still feels like the clutch is released and trying to turn the trans even when in neutral. | ||||
| Ezblast |
The KS sensor will shut you down if you try to throttle with the stand down in gear. Ahh - ok - clutch adjustment is too tight! Take your time doing this and do it as gently as a girl - grab your girlfriend/wifes hat - what ever it takes to relax, and not jack this by turning stuff too hard or fast - you want to be as accurate and gentle as possible - Tie down the clutch handle against the bar, loosen adjustment at the cable about 7 turns, loosen primary adjustment to 14 flats out(that way you can put back to right adjustment when done and correct after a 1/2 hour riding), take off inspection cover with bike level so no oil will leak, get to adjustment screw and turn it in to very soft bottom, as soon as it touches stop, and turn 1/4 turn out. Done, seal up, release clutch handle, adjust at cable, then adjust primary, then ride around 1/2 hour and re-adjust primary - lol - Your clutch was too tight and shutting you down. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
damn it are you serious. i was wondering about that. ok well i just drained the primary so im going to go ahead and do the shift pawl adjustment as i bought the drill bit. is it really a must to have new gaskets i just put them on 400-500 miles ago. also the 20w50 i had put in the trans at that time was already darker than chocolate milk, looked a little rust colored too. i did not realize how far i have ridden since i put the new primary chain on. i ride a lot when she is working. | ||||
| Imblasted |
so how short does the blast feel with the rear sets? i already feel like its tiny, i need to find a standard seat this one is a lowered seat. And everyone keeps calling her a scooter! how do i fix that? i told them if they do it again im going to punch them in the neck. | ||||
| Ezblast |
The rearsets actually feel more comfortable to a taller person. Relax - when all this gets done right - you'll just be riding, and not caring about what anybody says. Lets just make sure you take your time to make everything's right, then it will be time to have fun! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 25, 2011) | ||||
| Imblasted |
ok, well i forgot the breaker bar so i cant get the engine gear off, so i have to wait for the morning. then i will be able to do the pawl adjustment and then put everything back together. but it is going much more smoothly than my first time. i actually got the clutch release plate out and the nut from behind it out. just have to go get a breaker bar or wait for mine to show up in the morning. i guess its time to sleep... thank you again. so the 8" back and 2.5" higher doesn't/doesn't make it feel smaller? stock bars or crossroads? I am sick of looking at my shoulders... I also think it is time for an xb9sx | ||||
| Ezblast |
LOL - superbike bars would be comfortable and inexpensive. Rest well, relax and take your time to do it right! EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
Ok, so I have done all the adjustments and done them correctly, it shifts much better. But I can go about 10 mph then if I give it anymore gas it dies. Should I just go buy the slide/diaphragm?? I don't know what else it could be. I ran it with stock jets and the same thing. This all started when I rejetted the carb. The first time I put it back together I had forgot the needle jet and it didn't go at all I reinstalled the needle jet and now it does this. It doesn't matter if I hold the slide up or down when I twist the throttle. I can twist the butterfly and it dies. Could it be a clogged hole somewhere in the carb? I don't have an air compressor so I can't blow out the jets and holes. I'm going to pick up my new spark plug, so I guess I'm just going to get a nice new plug wire as well. The k/s sensor wouldn't even let me go at all in gear correct? So the only thing can be the diaphragm? | ||||
| Ezblast |
Right - however, I would try blowing out the needle and jets, and adding a new intake gasket, your problem could be as simple as dirty air from re-using the intake gasket. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
ok so i have done everything except replace the diaphragm. i have returned the jets to stock and set the mix screw at 2.5 turns. it runs better with the carb cleaned out and the adjustments all done. i am wondering is the slide supposed to jump when i twist the throttle? the engine stall seems to coincide with the rising of the slide. it revs nicely until the slide starts to do its little dance... arg!! (im a pirate and sad b/c i haven't gotten to ride in soooo long) | ||||
| Ezblast |
Set the af screw at two turns out. Did you disable the safeties yet. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
i re enabled the safeties. should i just leave me disabled? i was trying to avoid cutting the k/s switch. i mean i am in nuetral when i am trying this. i put it to 2 turns checked it. still stalls and actually it runs better at 2.5 | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is the needle guide installed or installed correctly? It might have fallen out or you put it back in 'upside down'. Screw the safeties. Putting them back to the way they were isnt likely to make your problems go away. It can stall out in neutral because of the safety switches being bad. I'd like to reiterate that the more stuff you mess with, the more likely you'll compound your problems. Step back, breath, walk away. Countless problems have been solved by just walking away and getting a good nights sleep. The brain is a far better diagnostic tool than your hands. | ||||
| Ezblast |
Disable the kickstand switch. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
i am disabling the k/s sensor now and i have replaced the stupid $50 slide for no reason! i should just trust myself when i check things. if the ks sensor doesn't fix idk what im going to do... | ||||
| Imblasted |
do i actually NEED the airbox or a "pro series" filter installed for it to run correctly? I am going to go with no. final answer | ||||
| Imblasted |
i think im going to cry  , k/s sensor clipped wires twisted together, center diode flipped, new diaphragm, new intake boot. mix screw set at 2.5 im screwed. i put everything together correctly i am not usually stumped by things like this. the new iridium plug is in there now too. but it seems like it just looses spark for no reason! (Message edited by imblasted on June 28, 2011) | ||||
| Imblasted |
i have a friend with an xl883 can i have him ride over and let me borrow his carb to see if it is that? will that work? | ||||
| Ezblast |
No - however, try a new intake gasket, if that doesn't work - try un-pluging your carb electrics - you'll have to feather it to keep it started for a few minutes, however, maybe its your auto enrichner messing with you. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
nope it started and i kept it running just fine but no luck with reving. im doing all this w/o the airbox on bc its a pain to keep reinstalling and removing every time i try something different. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, the 883 carb would work with some minor modifications which would include the jetting. But mess up your friends carb and you'll both be very unhappy  Remember unplugging the carb electronics leaves the autoenrichener in the on (or full choke) position (if its working properly). I concur with unplugging it for diagnostics, but its not likely to fully come off the "choke" unless the bike is really, really warm (so dont leave it unplugged unless you have too). | ||||
| Imblasted |
it still stalled with them unplugged and the safeties disabled. i have done everything i can think of. | ||||
| Tiltcylinder |
Does the needle actually move when you see the slide moving? Missing clip will leave the needle in the jet... no fuel... stalls. The dancing slide thing has me wondering if the diaphram is in correctly... double check the diaphram's seated and the spring's in the right place. A little dancing is to be expected with a one lunger. Lots is not acceptable. You control the butterfly with the throttle/cable but the diaphram controls the slide and it in turn the needle. Maybe check if the jet is in place? Try placing a finger or two over the mouth of the carb while it's running (richen the mix), open throttle... what happens? ALSO did you check fuel flow out of the line? Turn petcock off, remove hose at carb, turn on, (catch fuel in something!) you should get a steady stream. If not... | ||||
| Ezblast |
Right on - thank you TC! EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
Ok, the needle moves. The two fingers doesn't help it not to stall. The diaphragm sits square in the seat and then I install the needle, the plastic spring seat is in square the spring is straight. I tighten the cap, how tight does it needto be? Next I am checking the fuel flow... I can email a video of the slide, but it won't post here | ||||
| Ezblast |
Check for spark as well. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
how should i check for spark while it is running? and how will i know that it is cutting spark? im not exactly sure what you are telling me to do. normally i would do this: vacuum hose with a plug cap onto attached to the top of the spark plug then touch with a grounded test light. (Message edited by imblasted on June 28, 2011) | ||||
| Ezblast |
Sorry - that was a bad sentence - actually - check for a loose plug wire - can seem fine at idle and be too loose when kicking up the motor's throttle - cutting out on you - just a thought. EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
i actually locktited the plug cap to the threads and the cap to the wire... i have to wait until after 7 to check the fuel line. | ||||
| Britchri10 |
When you installed the needle into the slide was there a brass colored metal cylindrical piece that fits into the bottom of the plastic spring guide? If not, this could be causing the problem. If so, did you install it with the wider end in the down position? If not, this could be causing the problem. Chris C | ||||
| Imblasted |
do you mean between the needle and the plastic spring guide? i did not see a piece there. i do know that the stainless steel needle guide above the main jet is installed and correctly. | ||||
| Ezblast |
So we can all be on the same page -
EZ | ||||
| Imblasted |
in that there is not brass piece between the needle and the plastic spring seat. but my needle doesn't have the piece that sticks up like the picture either. ill take a pic of it after 7 | ||||
| Britchri10 |
OK: I just did this on my Blast CV carb': Installation order into the slide (from the top of the slide) 1) Needle (with shim washers if applicable) 2) Cylindrical brass colored metal piece with flange at lower end. (Sits on top of needle) 3) Plastic spring guide 4) Spring Place whole assembly into carb making sure the slide lines up correctly with the slots in the carb 5) Carburetor cap. (do NOT pinch it when securing w/3 regular (gray colored) screws + one long silver colored screw on right front corner {viewed from the rear of the bike} This long silver colored screw secures the "arm" that controls the throttle cables) The way I did it was to place needle inside the slide whilst slide is inverted. Hold needle below slide. Insert brass colored doohickey into spring guide (flange at bottom) Insert spring guide + doohickey into slide (whilst holding at an angle) Slowly turn slide right side up so that doohickey & spring guide slide into place. (Doohickey sitting atop needle) Insert slide + diaphragm into carb body Insert spring onto spring guide. Compress spring w/carb cap. screw down w. 3 x gray colored screws. Check that diaphragm is not "pinched". Then I relocated the throttle cables into the relevant slots. installed throttle cable guide arm w/ 4th screw in top of carb + screw on side of carb Checked that slide is free & clear & then re-installed the carb to the bike. Installed cable retention plates (brass colored) onto throttle cables above arm (Sorry to go on for so long but there it is...) I hope this helps Chris C WARNING: Mine is a 2005 Blast. It should all be the same as yours but YMMV! | ||||
| Imblasted |
hey chris sorry to ask this so late but can you give me a picture of this brass piece you speak of so i can find the one i lost? lol. but look at the manual there isn't one in the diagram. i too have the 05 blast. | ||||
| Britchri10 |
OK: I may be confusing the issue here but MY carb (& looking at EZ's diagram, only my carb) has a brass colored cylindrical "doohickey" that sits atop the needle inside PN #24 in the diagram. Sorry, Chris C | ||||
| Britchri10 |
I could only get a picture by taking the carb apart again. I won't have time tonight as I have to go out for the evening in about 20 minutes. I'll try but I can't guarantee when I can get to it. Chris C | ||||
| Imblasted |
yea thats what i understood. my needle looks dif than the diagram too. im at work and cannot do anything right now. | ||||
| Tiltcylinder |
IDK... one more idea. Is the float needle (in the bottom of the carb) sitting on top of the float tab, instead of the little wire thing going around the tab on the float? Might be holding the needle basicly closed, only allowing a small amount of fuel into the bowl and never really allowing full flow of fuel into carb. OTHERWISE... If you can see the fuel spraying past the needle (no air cleaner, look into carb's mouth with flashlight + some sort of safety glasses... because no eyebrows is a funny look for anyone) when you open the throttle wide open...and it stays reasonable consistent, I'm going to say some sort of ignition problem. Anyone know the right way and readings to OHM the coil? Maybe put a spare plug wire on... any length wire that'll fit. Might not arc to ground until cylinder pressure raises when you try to rev it. | ||||
| Ezblast |
Thought - is the vacuum line coming out of the carb body plugged - it should be - check. Spray WD around the intake manifold to see if there is an rpm change - could also be a bad o-ring there, make sure intake gasket is good, boot is good - over-tightening one can kill it as well. EZ |
