| Author | Message | ||
     Novellterminator |
Let me start by saying thanks for taking the time to read my post. I left my 2001 Buell Blast sitting around without cranking for 2 years (stupid, I know). A month ago, I took it to a mechanic to get the carburetor cleaned. I don't know much about motorcycles, or vehicles in general. They got my motorcycle up and running, and they said they also replaced the auto-enricher (or something!) and the Blast runs, but with two problems: 1. When the bike has sat around for many hours, it takes a lot of effort to start. I even try with giving it some gas, and it still takes a while. I've also tried pumping the accelerator a few times, and it also doesn't help (if it's even supposed to). 2. When I over approximately 45 MPH then slow down, the Blast idles noticeably higher than normal. If I turn off the bike, and back on, it's back to its normal idle. I don't know if these two are related, so I decided to list them both. Does any one have any ideas? Thanks! (Message edited by novellterminator on June 07, 2011) | ||
| Ezblast |
New battery and a new Das Boot are in order! EZ | ||
| Novellterminator |
Thanks for the response! I already replaced the battery. Are there any guides (with pictures) which show how to replace the boot? I don't even know what it is. I also haven't been able to find a service manual. (Message edited by novellterminator on June 07, 2011) | ||
| Ezblast |
Go join my group, check the files section - for educational purposes - you'll find the SM and PM - the boot install is the dialog just above this thread -  opps wrong das boot picture - lol  That part behind the carb is the intake coupler. EZ | ||
| Novellterminator |
Thanks, I replaced the boot. Have to wait until tomorrow to see if it cold starts better. The guy at the part shop said it was probably the automatic choke. I bought that part too, and I'll put it on tomorrow if the boot doesn't solve the problem. Expect an update from me soon!  | ||
| Ezblast |
It takes 10 to 15 minutes for the enrichner to shut itself off, even on a warm bike, though you hardly notice it then when the bikes already warmed up. You'll usually notice small signs that it is on for 5 minutes, and at idles for the first 10 minutes as well. As soon as it reaches a pre-selected Status Quo - it shuts down. EZ | ||
| Novellterminator |
OK I tried a cold start this morning. It seems to start a little easier, but it's still is having a hard time. Ezblast, are you saying that the problem might not be the automatic choke? If you're not saying that and it is the problem, here's a picture of the part. I just want to confirm this is, in fact, the automatic choke: http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/novellterminator/_DSC0129.jpg (I don't know how to show images in the forum so it's a link.) Also, I can't seem to find where it goes on the Blast. Could you possible point me in the right direction? Thanks for everything! (Message edited by novellterminator on June 09, 2011) | ||
| Ezblast |
Saying that is not the problem - put 3 to 5 ounces of Seafoam in your tank and fill with premium - maybe do two tanks - sounds like a dirty primary/slow jet. EZ | ||
| Novellterminator |
Alright, thanks AGAIN Ezblast. I will try exactly what you described. I've checked Sea Foam out, and they make several products so I just want to be sure I get the right one. I should get "Sea Form Motor Treatment", correct? I'll tell you how it works out in the end. | ||
| Ezblast |
To clean carburetor bowl and jets, add 2 oz. Sea FoamŪ to each gallon of gas. Sea FoamŪ slowly re-liquefies old fuel and oil varnish residue deposits to clear passages and restore normal functionality. If you wish to spray atomized Sea FoamŪ directly in to the carburetor throat with the engine warm and running, use Sea FoamŪ SPRAY (Sea FoamŪ Motor Treatment in an aerosol can.) -See Instructions EZ | ||
| Novellterminator |
I got the Sea Foam and filled up my tank with premium as you suggested. Not thinking, I put the Sea Form in first, right after I drained my old fuel (from both the main tank and the reserve). Would the Sea Form have spilled into the reserve, in that case? Should I ride it on reserve? | ||
| Jerzydevil |
As long as you put the sea foam in after you drained the tank its fine. There is no reserve tank for it to go in. the reserve is just the lower portion of the tank. There are two tubes on the petcock inside the tank. one lower than the other. | ||
| Novellterminator |
A short update: I've been driving my Blast around -- about 70 miles -- and so far no improvement whatsoever. But I will continue to follow the advice and do this for two tank-fulls of gas. Also, perhaps unrelated, my Blast reaches a maximum speed of 62ish. Is this normal? I seem to remember going 80 on the freeway with it. Maybe I'm wrong. I'm 280 pounds -- perhaps the Blast just can't take me like it could when I was lighter? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You have an issue. It would have been pertinent to know that your Blast would only do 62 mph before you started on diagnostics. A check of your primary chain adjustment is definitely in order which is the most common cause of low top speed. Also be sure the boot is installed properly. 80mph is the minimum top speed for someone your weight. and in case anyone missed this do not pull your carb apart to "give it a good cleaning". This is rarely ever necessary and most often does more harm than good. The most common cause of problems is a clogged slow/pilot jet. Sea foam is your best bet. (insert banging head against wall emoticon here.) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS The Blast carb doesnt have an accelerator pump. It has a space for one, but it isnt there. | ||
| Ezblast |
Primary way too tight - max speed 95 mph! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Adjust by sound. EZ | ||
| Novellterminator |
Thanks again for the responses. A couple more questions. And please point out the seemingly blatantly obvious to me if need be, I won't be insulted: When you talk about the "primary chain adjustment" you're talking about the screw on the bottom of the bike that's not the one to drain transmission fluid, right? I Googled some pictures of it, but I just want to be safe and get an answer from one of you guys. Gearhead, you posted in another thread the following: "I backed off the lock/jam nut and slowly loosened the adjuster bolt. Within a half turn of the bolt you can very clearly hear the clacking of the adjuster shoe being too loose. I have a loud exhaust and the sound is still unmistakable." So I should keep loosening it (making the screw come out more and more?) until I hear it clanking, then tighten it again just until that sound stops? Does having to mess with this screw indicate that something else might be wrong with my Blast? Or is this just a standard procedure of maintenance? Edit: One last thing... Since I failed to mention something that was apparently important, I'll list my other two issues with my Blast: I believe my transmission fluid has a small leak (the bolt holding the liquid in leaks a bit and with a wrench it won't tighten to the point where I can't tighten it anymore (don't know what to do about that). And also, perhaps related, my bike makes some weird noise (moderately high-pitched (not extremely high, and it doesn't sound like grinding, but it's not very pleasant)) when I'm in 2nd through 4th gear. 1st and 5th gear sound normal. Is there a way to check the transmission fluid level on a 2001 Buell Blast? (Message edited by novellterminator on June 20, 2011) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the screw with the jam/locknut thats not the transmission drain. " I should keep loosening it (making the screw come out more and more?) until I hear it clanking, then tighten it again just until that sound stops" Yes, I would turn the bolt in first so you can hear the whine and the engine idle slow (a little) just to get the feel of things. EZ & Swampy (and others) have written volumes about it and we all have our own slightly different way we like it to sound. If you can, do the factory adjustment first* (adding 8 flats instead of the repair manuals 4-5) and go from there. That will give you good indication of where to start and you wont be so far off you'll be lost. The adjustment is just standard maintenance. Get it right and you shouldnt have to do it again for a very long time (unless you relentlessly abuse your engine). Edits: The drain bolt can be easily over tightened. Its threading into aluminum whichs strips rather easily. You must be very careful with the drain plug and adjuster bolt not to overtighten. You certainly wouldnt be the first to strip either out. Use a torque wrench. Teflon tape will help seal that leak up provided you havent gone too far and completely stripped it out. Fluid level is checked by removing the clutch inspection cover, which entails removing the Y-frame. At this point you are just better off changing the fluid and replacing it with a good synthetic. There are 2 ways to change the fluid. Both take about as much time, but one involves a lot of cursing and frustration, while the other involves just a lot of waiting! Adjustment and fluid change might stop the whine, it also might be normal. I couldnt hear it over my exhaust (and if I could, it would be a problem)! * The number of turns out on the adjuster bolt varies by who you ask, but it really depends on how stretched out your chain is. The factory method and 5,8,12,14 turns out will get you close enough to adjust by ear. Dont expect to go "ah, thats what they mean" right away. You might, but you'll probably end up experimenting a bit first with the sound it makes. | ||
| Novellterminator |
Thanks gearhead! I tried my best to listen to the changes and I did the best I could for my limited experience. I loosened it until I heard some slight clanking so I tightened until it went away. At this point, the screw is a lot lower than it was, only a finger's height away from the stock exhaust. Is this too loose? I drove it around and was able to get it to 70 MPH now. I had the accelerator fully "twisted" and it might have been able to gain some more speed over time (I don't know how long it takes to reach max speed), but I wanted to obey the speed limit rather than test it out! So I was able to get at least 8-10 more MPH off that adjustment. I did mess up and accidentally put the low-grade gasoline in my bike while filling up at the pump. I wasn't thinking. Should I go ahead and add 5 more oz. of Seafoam into the gas tank, or do I NEED to drain it and put premium gas to do this? (This will be the bike's second serving of Seaform.) Couldn't tell you have it starts cold yet, since it hasn't had a chance to fully cool off yet. I'll report back tomorrow. (Message edited by novellterminator on June 21, 2011) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"only a finger's height away from the stock exhaust" A more meaningful measurement would be the distance between the head of the adjuster bolt to the top of the locknut (the area you can see bolt threads). Increased top speed and "a lot lower than it was" is a good indication that it was too tight. Premium is a must especially for larger weights. I cant tell you if seafoam is an octane booster or not. Just run the regular through unless you experience knock or ping. But I'd buy some octane booster and add that (only takes a little) rather than drain the tank. |
