| Author | Message | ||
     Jgeating |
2006 blast, not a great previous owner. He had the engine replaced at 5000 miles, gave it to me at 6000. I'm currently at 8600 with an increasing oil leak and a relatively high pitch clicking noise, almost like keys rattling. Oil leak: first noticed it when the left side of the engine (crankshaft case?) has some oil on it. Then I saw that the metal triangular shaped piece between the fork and the engine had oil on it. Now, there is oil all down the left side, and on long trips my pants get oil on the lower left leg. Oil level looks good to me. Have changed it twice, replaced the filter a couple weeks ago. Clicking just started recently. It is relatively high pitched and at first sounded just like keys rattling lightly. It's been getting louder, however, and stops when at an idle. When I rev, it starts about a second after the engine revs, and stops about a second after it begins idling. A couple other problems I've had that may or may not be related: 1. Full crack around the exhaust at the weld to the muffler. Had to get it welded twice (first time broke through after 3 hrs). 2. Huge metal support connecting the engine to the rear fork/frame sheared completely through when pulling out from a red light. I believe the cause was that whoever installed the new engine did not put washers on the bolts, increasing the stress dramatically. Had to get a new $100 replacement part, and made sure to put the *included* washers on. I am not a mechanic, but am a tinkerer and good with tools. } | ||
| Swampy |
The oil leak could be a rocker box gasket. The engine noise could be the primary chain adjustment. The broken exhaust is caused by the muffler being loose. You will probably need a new rear strap.....no.....scrap that idea, just get an aftermarket exhaust. | ||
| Jgeating |
yeah, i tried to get in but it was hard. I could only tighten it about another half turn (rocker gasket bolt where the majority of the oil was). The clicking was actually the muffler mount on the bottom, which may explain why it broke. However, I don't know how to tighten it because I can't get to the other head/nut. It looks like it would go all the way through to the other side, but the corresponding nut directly across is different. Anyone have any experience here? -Josh | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Its 2 bolts. Each with an Allen head and nut at the other end. Yes, difficult to get to. If I remember correctly, it takes a long offset box wrench for the inside nut (1/2"?) and a long Allen key (or socket-which is close to 1/4", but I really dont remember). (I havent had a stock exhaust in years) | ||
| Jgeating |
Thanks, wish I had read that earlier, but I found it anyway. The oil leak is still there, but upon closer inspection and after tightening all four bolts again, I don't think it's the rocker head gasket. There is a circular pan shaped object in front of the engine, up top. Right in front of the rocker head gasket. I believe this is causing the leak, but I don't know where to tighten. I tried the 5/8 bolt dead center, but I couldn't get it any tighter with the short wrench I had. Another problem has also come around. I just found it today when there was a clicking plastic scraping noise every time I pressed the rear brake. To make a long story short, my entire rear wheel is slowly sliding to the left, causing: A. belt is hitting the plastic guard, creating a loud noise whenever the rear brake is pressed (which encourages the movement) B. Rear brake housing is scraping against disc bolts, which has worn away the metal 1/16 of an inch or so. There is also a thin shim/washer visible on the left side of the wheel I can move with my hand if I reach inside the wheel. Any advice on how to adjust the left/right position of the rear wheel will be much appreciated. This is probably my fault, as I replaced the rear tire last, and I must have missed something (also possible it was the previous owner 4K miles ago, who replaced the rear tire, but I doubt it). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay...you have parts missing, bad bearings from overtorquing the axle nut, improper assembly or all of the above. The Blast rear wheel/brake/axle/swingarm is completely non adjustable. You just put it back together the way it came apart and thats it. There is nothing to adjust save torquing down the axle nut to 50 ftlbs. Without detailed pictures I couldnt tell you what you're missing, I could only guess. Do you have a repair manual? Its really a very simple assembly. That oil leak doesnt make any sense. The only round object to leak oil is the PCV grommet and its very hard to see unless you're looking for it, and know where to look. Whatever you're tightening doesnt leak oil. Pictures would help. | ||
| Jgeating |
OK, well I'm about to start working on it now. If you could talk real time with me, that would be great. I have access to manual mills and lathes, so I can manufacture whatever parts I need right now for the rear tire. If you don't respond back, I'll just try making some sort of makeshift spacer. I will also take pictures of both the oil leak and rear wheel. PM if you'd be willing to call me or IM. It got a lot worse riding to work today, and it's my only source of transportation, so I really need to use it every day. I'll be working on it until it's ridable starting now. I'll be checking back here rather often over the next few hours. Thanks, -Josh | ||
| Jgeating |
turns out the left ball bearing is in pieces. No more balls, just the inner and outer housing. one side piece was sitting inside the center of the wheel, the other on the left axle. For now, I am going to try to make a spacer that fits between the two housings in place of the balls. Just like a general thrust bearing, plus lots of grease. pictures coming soon. any advice will be much appreciated. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/36619.html?1278183668 Thats the rear wheel bearing link. The bearing is probably available locally at a bearing or Honda shop, buy both sides. Hopefully the inner bearing spacer is still good. While I can appreciate the thrust bearing approach, its not in your best interests. If you take that route, buy a spare wheel off ebay. Since you have access to machinery, I have to assume you are mechanically inclined. At least now you know what the clicking noise was.  Do you have a repair or parts manual? | ||
| Jgeating |
thanks. I wasn't sure if the bearing would be available online. I ended up making the thrust bearing, because there was no way for me to get home except walk 10 miles. I just made a part, if you can imagine, the ID was the OD of the inner housing of the ball bearing. The OD was the ID of the outer ball bearing housing. About .002 inches clearance each interface. There was also a .050 lip on the OD to keep it from sliding to the right, and a set screw joined to the inner housing to keep it from sliding off the inner housing. Unfortunately, that means the sliding surface is the interface between the outer housing ID and the machined part's OD, which was something like 1.615 inches (big). It's a temporary fix, and I will order the bearing ASAP. I got home 10 miles, and the rear brake worked fine. The oil leak is still a problem, however. This bike just loves to give me trouble. btw, I am just a sophomore mechanical engineering student, currently interning. I don't have much experience working automotive or bikes, however. | ||
| Britchri10 |
IMHO, it sounds like you know what you are doing! Congrat's on the fix (albeit temporary) To say I am impressed would be an understatement! Chris C | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Lets see.....you just made bearing for your Blast wheel and rode it home 10 miles. I think you'll do fine, experience is all you need and your Blast seems to be perfect for it!!! Read the manual. 2006 and it needed an engine at 5000 miles spells abused. You'll be working out the gremlins for a while. After that you'll be good. The Blast can take A LOT of abuse, but you have to maintain the bike along with that abuse. Follow the links on EZ's profile to get a pdf manual if you dont have one already. PS If you want reliable, stick to factory stock parts. Avoid the temptation to re engineer things or modify them. The biggest reason Harley Davidson products have a reputation for being unreliable is from the use of non factory parts and modifications (ever see one without added chrome?). | ||
| Ezblast |
Did Erik say that? Who are you sir, and what have you done with Erik? I'm calling the cops! - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - common bearings - you can probably get anywhere. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
LOL! Do as I say, not as I do  | ||
| Jgeating |
well I could care less about modifying my bike. I just need it to get from point A to point B and not break down. I will be sticking to all stock parts, but I still can't figure out this oil leak. It really looks like it's coming from higher than the rocker head gasket. I can understand some splashing/spreading, but it really looks like the oil is coming from somewhere above/in front of the rocker head gasket. Any ideas? I've tightened the rocker head twice now to no avail. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A picture would help. It might be leaking from an overfilled oil tank via the dipstick hole. It could be spraying up from the PCV grommet hole. Could be blowing up from the front fork seals. Could it be gasoline? | ||
| Jgeating |
definitely not gasoline. The oil level is midway between the arrows, and I was careful not to overfill before. What is the pcv grommet hole? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Its on top of the valve/rocker cover with a hose coming out of it that goes into the airbox. Could it be old oil? Maybe from the previous owner? (the manual did say to check the oil with the engine running! Many have found that a good way to cover things in oil!!! | ||
| Ezblast |
lol  engine off EZ | ||
| Jgeating |
definitely fresh oil, because I've wiped down several sections of the bike and they get covered pretty bad. The triangular metal piece in front of the bike and the rear brake cable are both completely saturated and covered in oil, only several days after wiping them down. | ||
| Ezblast |
Totally clean the bike - ride around for an hour, then park, let cool, then inspect - that will tell you where the oil is coming from. EZ | ||
| Jgeating |
So I finally got the new bearing and put them in yesterday. Took be 3 1/2 grueling hours, two of which were spent just removing the hammer. The inner race of the ball bearing that had broken was majorly galled as well as the piece I had made, so much that you couldn't even see the set screw from the ID of the spacer. Used the "always get a bigger hammer" strategy and eventually it finally came out. Had to sand blast, file, grind, and turn on a lathe (for galling material that had been added) the axle to get the nut to thread and the new bearings to fit on. It's lasted alright 50 miles so far. I also tightened the muffler nuts to the engine (they had come loose), and i guess with those two combined, I have noticed significant increase in power. Still haven't figured out the leak problem. Thanks for your help guys. | ||
| Ezblast |
Sounds like you have a good hand on her - Welcome! EZ | ||
| Jgeating |
by the way, when I made the temporary bearing, I had to shorten the right side rear wheel axle spacer by a couple hundredths of an inch. Does anyone know the exact length of this spacer to .0001 (so error doesn't propagate) for me to make a new one, or at least a shim. Or, if anyone is taking their rear wheel off and has a nice pair of calipers, could you measure it and let me know the dimensions. Better yet, does anyone know how I could get the actual part dimensions and tolerances? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The outside axle spacer isnt critical as long as you have one original spacer on one side. The spacer inside the wheel is very critical. I do have spacers in the garage and I'll try and get to to measure, but its not that important. Mount the wheel and the spacers you've got, then fill in the resulting space of the shortened spacer with a washer/shim (or not. The swingarm can flex a little and .125" shouldnt be a big deal). | ||
| Jgeating |
So this bike really is a never ending well of problems. I still haven't found the leak. I would like to buy a rocker head gasket, however, just in case it is coming from there. I am fairly positive it is either the rocker head gasket or the PCV grommet, which was mentioned earlier, but I still don't know what that is. I took some pictures, which are attached. Unfortunately, I did not think to take pictures until after I wiped down most of the oil. It covered a a lot of the left side, the whole front of the engine and on top of the muffler. The triangular piece was covered as well, and so was the rear brake cable seen in the picture. An electrical problem has also come up. The horn hasn't been working for some time now (think it stopped working 8 or so months ago). I tried opening up the left handlebar, but did not want to peel away the adhesives. Everything looked fine, and when I shorted the leads to the horn switch, nothing happened. However, now my turn signals are not working. No indicator light or anything. Also attached is a picture of what appears to be a missing fuse. Any idea if it should be there, and if so, what it does? Any ideas? Can I fully open the left handlebar, or will peeling away the adhesive make the electronics susceptible to water shorting.      | ||
| Ezblast |
Your horn is missing, those black hanging wires attach to a horn. Extra diode - its in manual - push-rod leaking? Thought you did the rocker cover gaskets? EZ | ||
| Jgeating |
Got a new horn. A fuse was blown for the turn signal. Still haven't found the leak, but it has either subsided to the point where it doesn't drip overnight or it's completely gone altogether. Besides that, had my first flat 70 miles from home. Just a small pin hole, but the bead was disconnected. I ended up temporarily fixing it using a bungee cord, pliers, and air from the rest stop I was lucky enough to break down at. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - she's a regular road warrior! EZ | ||
| Adrianlives702 |
it looks like me and you have the same leak. i just bought my 06 blast and the guy i bought it off of said it is the head gasket. but after reading up on it i believe it may be the rocker cover gasket. the hose from the pcv was dissconected so that was probably some of the oil. i connected it. cleaned it all up really good. and after about 30 minutes of riding fresh new oil is seeping down the side of the motor. hard to tell from exactly where. |
