| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
You should actually pull the spark plug out and check it. It may be sparking or it may be weak or the plug nipple may be loose and its sparking there or it may be seriously fouled. I'd do that next and crank the engine over and be sure that plug is sparking blue (and check the gap). After checking that I'd use the shortcut and see if it starts with starting fluid. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Crackhead |
I finally got a chance to work on the bike again. Pulled the plug out and it's good. When I spray starting fluid, i get a puff back out of the carb. I can only find but 1 tiny dot the flywheel, that looks like it was made by using a bic pen as a punch. Is that the timing "dots"? If so they don't match the light on the ignition module. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No, thats not the timing mark. Finding the timing marks should be done with the plug out. There is one line for TDC and two dots for advanced. When static timing you only need to be concerned with the line mark. Looking at anything else before setting static timing first by the TDC mark is pointless. It would be extremely rare that your Blast left the factory without timing marks. A puff back out the carb is bad. Timing could be off as well as improper valve function (collapsed lifter is common) or? Do you have a compression tester? (Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 18, 2010) | ||
| Crackhead |
I can swing by autozone and "rent" the free compression tester. This does not sound good. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Less than $30 will buy a compression tester that will tell you all you need to know and you'll have it forever ($7.99 on ebay "buy it now"). The universal kind that uses a rubber tip that you hold against the spark plug hole. Its a good tool for telling you what condition your engine is in especially since the top end is what usually wears out first. | ||
| Crackhead |
arg the free rental compression tester from autozone doesn't have the correct adapter for our spark plug hole. | ||
| Toniportray |
I've had very little success with the free rental system from AutoZone. Harbor Freight Tools sells a compression set that works great. It comes with multiple fittings, etc. so you can use it for a wide variety of applications. I don't remember what it costs, but it's probably as cheap as the Ebay option. For the most part, the things I have bought from HF have been reliable and durable (many complain about HF quality). | ||
| Crackhead |
Well, my wife picked up a pressure gauge from Sears for me and there is bad news. Compression was only enough to make the needle twitch. I pulled the cam cover off and found pieces to the crank needle bearing (i think), a broken oil pump and a broken oil pump drive gear. Now the question is, what can i do about it. The bike has just over 1,000 miles but is an 06. I bought it used and did the 1k my self. I don't think their is any warranty left for the bike. I might try calling customer service tomorrow. This sucks. Here is a link to my Facebook account with pics under the cam cover. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2056954&id=1 496008006&l=410cd4ccc0 | ||
| Buellistic |
Crackhead: My 2000 BLAST had a defective exhaust valve which broke and dropped into the cylinder ... "i" am the 6th owner ... Called HARLEY-DAVIDSON BUELL Service and after a conversation with them was told to take it to my Dealer ... The Dealer would fill out the necessary paper work and submit it to Service for approval ... If approved the Dealer would fix it at no charge to me ... "i" too took the engine apart and when "i" talked to the Dealer this was an issue that we could not get pass this as a warranty issue all thought they would send in the paper work ... My position was if turned down "i" would owe the Dealer an unknown amount of money, so "i" deside'ed to take this unknown amount of money and fix it myself ... It took a while to collect the parts ... Now it is put together time ... | ||
| Crackhead |
I was looking at some pictures in the cam install section of the board and I am wondering if I can slide a new bearing in from the cam side. | ||
| Crackhead |
    (Message edited by crackhead on March 23, 2010) (Message edited by crackhead on March 23, 2010) (Message edited by crackhead on March 23, 2010) | ||
| Buellistic |
The problem will be getting the old one out ??? The new one with very careful assembly would go in and it must be straight in... The problem then would be the bearing fit for the cam ... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It looks like the oil pump drive gear went bad and took the bearing out. Unfortunately you dont know how many small pieces are still left in the engine and no matter how many times you 'flush' it out, you'll still be wondering "did I get them all"? For a bike you wont be keeping it might be possible just to get a bearing in there, get it running, and then unload it. Not a good way if you are keeping the bike and its still doubtful it will work  | ||
| Crackhead |
what is suppose to hold the bearing to stop it from moving towards the oil drive gear? What is on the crank side to hole the bearing in place? I really don't want to split the cases. I am sure i can flush the cam cover and case good. But i can't get to where the crank is to flush. Could anything fall back there? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There is a retaining ring on that side of the crankshaft, plus the pinion gear and nut holding things together. Since stuff went through the oil pump it could be pumped anywhere. Since the bearing came fully apart yes, pieces can fall back into the crankcase. There is a drain plug in the crankcase. Bearings come in different sizes, so dont lose the one you have. You also dont know how bad the bearing race is. Just losing a bearing wont necessarily cause zero compression. The crank was running at an angle (or several angles) and you cant be sure how much other damage it caused. It will be doubtful if you can get the bearing race off, so you hope its still good. And there's still some doubt as if its even possible. At this point you dont have much to lose, but add up the prices of the parts you'll need then compare it to the price of a used engine (or new) or another Blast. You'll need a new oil pump $250+, oil pump drive gear $50 , bearing $8, camshaft gasket $10, and...? You can find used oil pumps and it isnt a "Blast only" item, but some of the fittings may be different. Its worth a shot, just dont buy anything but the bearing before you know it will work. I'd call some reliable engine builders (see our sponsor list and mention Badweb) and see if they think its possible just to do the bearing. They might/should know if there is anything to stop you. If the cases must be split and you have the money, then there's lots you can do for more power, etc.  But definitely call customer service, but as mentioned, anything the dealer does will cost you money unless its pre approved by Buell(? )/ HD. | ||
| Crackhead |
I just called HD/Buell CS and warranty expired 10/15/07. The odd thing is that i bought the bike 10/?/08 as the 3rd owner. I do have a parts bike that i bought for $500, but the motor doesn't run. I guess I will check to see what is wrong with that one. I hope it was just a miss installed 515 kit. The guy gave me the original cylinder so, I could have it bored +.30 and slap that bike back together. $250 for an oil pump will stop me from fixing this motor. Well, for now at least. Maybe I will wait to see how EZs rebuild is going and then do mine. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The parts bike sounds like a good bet and a no-brainer for choice. Blast bottom ends rarely go bad (like yours) and a top end is easy (and you have spare parts to boot!) | ||
| Buellistic |
Gearhead: Ask about the COURTESY WARRANTY PROGRAM, which is what they told me my engine would be fixed under ... | ||
| Crackhead |
I just spoke to CS and the lady called it a “Goodwill Repair”, but I would have to take it to the dealer and have them look at it. And being that my bike is a 06, the likely hood of it going through is low. The 12min phone call was worth a shot though. | ||
| Swampy |
The oil pump I bought was only $125 when the oil pump drive gear went bad on the Big Kids Blast. When that crank bearing came out there are lots and lots of other possible problems, like the left side crank bearing, the connecting rod big end bearing, the piston being cracked. You are probably easier and better money just finding a used engine and putting that in. | ||
| Buellistic |
If you buy a new oil pump, get the -02 one which is the last oil pump up-date before the 2009 MODELs came out with the XBRR style oil pump system ... | ||
| Crackhead |
Assuming that bore on my motor that just lost the crank bearings is not scratched, can I use that cylinder and piston set without honing or replacing the rings on my parts bike motor? The motor with the bad crank bearing has under 4k miles. If i can get away without honing the cylinder, i think i can swap the motors and get my bike running. (Message edited by crackhead on March 25, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You could get away with it if its not badly scratched up. If it didnt show any compression though, thats not a good sign. A Blast piston w/rings is about $90 and a bore & hone is about $40-$100. Cylinder & piston set is about $260 (the same price as an XB piston and cylinder ). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Swampy did that with a piston/cylinder set I sent him (and I think it worked out well), but it was off a good running bike. I might have a good piston and cylinder, but they're not a matched set and you probably should buy rings and run a light sandpaper hone through the cylinder. I'll trade you for a bad cylinder (even the 515 one). Its up to you. If you're interested, I'll look for them. | ||
| Crackhead |
unfortunately the 515 cylinder is the aluminum version and has parts of the piston melted to it. The piston would be a great part to a broken motor trophy. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Cylinder condition doesnt matter. It'll just get re-sleeved anyway. Just let me know if I should look for them (I just dont want to look for nothing and I dont want to lead you on that I have them. I've got cylinders and pistons, I just dont remember if I have a good stock bore cylinder. ) | ||
| Blycop |
I know nothing about bikes. I'm not mechanical in any way. Just got a 2000 Blast. Has been running fine and ive put about 200 miles on it (now it has 3200 miles). I filled up today with premium after i'd originally been using regular. (not sure what owner used). Now the engine or tranny is making a mechanical clanking noise when throttling. it doesnt make sound at idle or when you are coasting. Any HELP!!! | ||
| Blycop |
Ok guys... The rear sprocket broke. that was the rattling i was hearing. I found online that that sprocket was recalled. The bike has 3200 miles and i'm the 3rd owner (2000 Blast). Will a dealership still honor recall after 10 years??? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
They might. It was prone to catastrophic failure and very dangerous. Call the nearest Buell dealer. If they say no, call customer service (I dont know what it is anymore, or what form Buell customer service is in). You might also try more than one dealer. If you're in California. Glendale HD/Buell are the ones to call (also a Badweb sponsor). Your occupation may not hurt either. Perhaps showing up at the dealer is a better idea |
