| Author |
Message |
    
Videoninja
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:02 pm: | 
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01 blast replaced plug, coil, and plug wire, boot is solid carb is getting fuel but when i pull the spark plug it is dry. It also has a weird "burnt but not oil burnt" smell from the breather tube. I pull carb and check both jets and everything seems to be clear. I also tried starting fluid with no luck. Please help! |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:03 pm: |
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Also seems to have strong compression but havent done a compression test |
Swampy
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:38 pm: |
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Did you Pull the plug and check for spark at the plug?
If the plug is firing then check the timing. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:52 pm: |
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I am getting spark and timing is correct, but i dont believe i am getting fuel to the chamber |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 12:15 am: |
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Check for clogged line, clogged valve or inner tank fuel filter - best bet - take off tank and line, shake thoroughly then quickly empty, then take off fuel valve and inspect/fix/replace, inc net fuel filter. You want to shake well, then quick pour out through the filler, trying to coax out any bigger pieces - stuff can fall into a gas tank - lol - and cause mystery problems!
EZ |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 12:28 am: |
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EZ fuel lines are clear and tank is flowing well. I believe it is happening post carb |
Swampy
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 11:02 am: |
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Three things, Fuel, Spark, Ignition....and you have compression.
If those are good then you have a timing problem.
But I would start over after a little break and carefully go over your checks again. Use a compression tester,
replace the spark plug(sometimes they don't fire under compression for strange reasons)
and squirt a small amount of fuel into the carb(starting fluid will do some serious damage to an engine)
Good Luck |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 11:27 am: |
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Here is what I have done so far from the SM in addition to what was previously stated
Below is directly from the Service Manual
Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start
1. Fuel tank empty. Check
2. Fuel valve turned off. Check
3. Fuel valve or filter clogged. Check
4. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections. Check
5. Fouled spark plug. Replaced
6. Spark plug cable in bad condition and shorting or cable connections loose. Replaced
7. Ignition timing badly out of adjustment. Check
8. Loose wire connection at coil or battery connection or plug between ignition sensor and module. Check
9. Ignition coil not functioning. Replaced
10. Ignition module not functioning. LED Flashes normally
11. Ignition sensor not functioning. Not sure about this one. 
12. Sticking or damaged valve or valves. Pulled rockerbox cover and found the strange burnt smell which makes me concerned about this one.
13. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over choking. Check
14. Engine oil too heavy (winter operation). Check |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 10:15 pm: |
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Does the carb suck air?
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 10:41 pm: |
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Please refrain from posting about the same problem on 2 different threads. Its confusing and makes it difficult to help when there are people responding on the two threads. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 11:43 pm: |
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The carb does suck air. It seems quite strong when I put my hand over it, also will get my hand wet w/ fuel |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 01:34 pm: |
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You have spark, fuel, air - therefor ignition - if your boot is good - lol
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 07:36 pm: |
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See also:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/576211.html?1278113757 |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 08:54 pm: |
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if the gear is stripped. then the lifters just compress and the valves lightly lift. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 09:11 pm: |
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OK well i believe i have found the problem....I checked the compression I only showed about 30psi........
I think the pictures will tell the story from there
 |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 09:19 pm: |
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so my next question is go back with stock piston and jug or go 515? I dont really care to do anything else to it i.e. cams xb head..... I currently have a V&H exhaust and the carb is rejetted and shimmed |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 09:30 pm: |
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any and all suggestions are appreciated..and ez das boot is good to go |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 10:25 pm: |
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Uh, thats severe. Not normal wear and tear and must have been caused by something. Look for a bad boot and definitely look at the oil pump drive gear (you'll want to change it anyway-the early years were prone to failure, if it hasnt done so already).
If you go with the 515 with a Wiseco piston from www.revperf.com then thats the way to go. If you go with the 515 and CP piston, then you're looking at winding up with the same problem.
FWIW: The 515 is only .063" over as compared to regular oversizes in .010", .020", .030". If you dont go 515, then definitely go with a 10.5:1 piston (515 is also 10.5:1).
"if the gear is stripped. then the lifters just compress and the valves lightly lift." True, but it can still run and thats what causes further damage.
I know. This Blast still ran:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/280950.jpg
Hopefully, if his gear did go, it didnt find its way into the crankcase and through the oil system.
Take a look into the cam gear case before you buy parts.
*I'd trust a CP piston in anything but the 515 kits. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 10:38 pm: |
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Erik what is a good resource for a 10.5:1 piston if i don't do the 515 kit? Are you serious about the bad boot? How could a bad boot possibly cause this? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 11:30 pm: |
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A severe lean condition.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 12:08 am: |
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Concur! But make sure you pull the cam cover before you order parts. If the oil pump drive gear went, you'll need an oil pump too.
See: www.revperf.com for a 515 kit or just an overbore piston. They dont list individual pistons on their website, so you may have to call or email them. Mention Badweb (they are a sponsor) and I wouldnt pay more than $160 for a piston with rings kit. The 515 might be available for $375.http://www.mt-llc.com/rpStore/product_info.php?cPa th=101_68&products_id=100
Other sponsors:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/17143.html |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 12:30 am: |
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I am quite convinced das boot is in good shape. I was check the oil pump drive gear tomorrow. |
Styxnpicks
| | Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 10:25 am: |
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CARNAGE!!!! |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 11:37 am: |
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If you can find a wreaked blast for cheep, it will be easier to swap motors. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 11:49 am: |
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Not sure that I agree that it would be easier to swap out engines. I think I am just gonna go with the 515 kit. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 07:54 pm: |
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Oil pump drive gear is in good shape but i swapped it out since i was already in there. Also Das Boot is still good to go. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 08:21 pm: |
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When you get it back together take a good look at timing, jetting, oil (esp. weight). It seems as if you've already gone through everything, so you should be okay. But something did cause a a major failure as thats not normal wear. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 08:37 pm: |
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I agree that it isn't normal wear, I believe that the previous owner was an idiot and didn't know what he was doing when it came to proper maintance of the bike. I sent him pic of the piston and his response was "The only thing that maybe could have caused the wear on the piston would be running it too fast for too long or running it too hot. You have to remember that it is a 500 cc 1 cylinder engine, and cannot be pushed too hard." I hope to get the 515 kit ordered by Wednesday and have it all put back together in a week or so depending on shipping times.... |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 09:12 pm: |
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"You have to remember that it is a 500 cc 1 cylinder engine, and cannot be pushed too hard." LOL!!!
There's a list of guys here on Badweb that have pushed their Blasts way beyond that. Several of us running 1000rpm above redline and I cant remember anyone having a piston burn up like that (except a couple who ran into serious running problems-it didnt come naturally).
I'd say the PO abused it too and you obviously wont be without also taking care of it.
If you can swing it, since you've got the head off, I'd modify the valve guides and add beehive springs so you can update the cams later. If you think you might want more power later on. |
Videoninja
| | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 10:37 pm: |
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I think I will just put the head on as it is and maybe go with a xb head in the future. It was only about a 20 min job removing the current head. BTW are there any suggestions on removing/re-installing the circlip rings holding the piston on w/o the "special tool" |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 01:25 am: |
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Dont lose it in the crankcase! Put one in the piston before assembly. I usually use a brake spring holddown tool or whatever works (socket driver). Removal use a small pick or screwdriver. Have a magnet handy.
FWIW:
The piston pin wont come out easily, so you'll need a tool for that (threaded rod, nuts and spacers work). It'll go in easy on the new piston.
I've found it easier to put the piston in the bore on the workbench, then lower the assembly onto the engine rather than installing the piston on the rod and messing with the rings when lowering the cylinder down. Thats what works best for me when using new parts. |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 08:56 am: |
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You can stuff rags in the case opening to prevent from dripping the circle clip down into the cases.
I found it easier to install the piston on the rod first, stuff the case with rags to hold the piston in place, then lower the cylinder over top the piston and gently press the rings in to walk the piston into the cylinder.
But i was also installing all used parts and had to gently tap the piston pin into place. (3/8 ext and dead blow hammer)
I would pull the case oil sump plug and flush the motor with used oil, brake cleaner or cheep oil to get majority of the crud out.
I couldn't believe how much crap was down there when i split my cases. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 05:50 pm: |
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Not normal!
That is a sign of detonation with the top of the piston missing like that.
Usually from running lean or the timeing being off. Please check your timing when you get it running again as another piston will not solve your problem.
Good luck |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2011 - 09:52 pm: |
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Oh yeah - a 515cc update - the piston that NHRS now runs with their 515cc kit has been changed so now people wanting to run that kit can breath a little easier on that point.
EZ |
