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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No is the answer.
EZ
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Joel
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks EZ.

Joel
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sorry for the short answer. Its not as if you couldn't have one made, a few custom jobs have been done, but that's some really pricey stuff.
EZ
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Thump
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 01:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

American Sport Bike has them. Not cheap, but they look really good. They have the pulley cover and a 'skin' that protects the pulley.

(Pulley and skin are on the Right)




(Message edited by thump on January 26, 2010)
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Thump
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

(sorry for multiple posts, problems uploading my pics)












I hope this is helpful. It wouldn't be that difficult to Fab yourself if you have that skill set. I don't and was at the mercy of CrossRoads. But it looks like they did ok if you ask me.

(Yes, I know that my air filter was off and the brake line is super jacked. They were both fixed before I rode.)

(Message edited by thump on January 26, 2010)
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2hrcommute
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 07:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I need help figuring out why my 2002 runs and stalls after I welded the header to the stock muffler after it broke
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 11:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Das Boot?
Welcome!
EZ
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2hrcommute
Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks EZ.
I replaced a radiator hose! that the other owner used as das boot with OEM boot $11.60.

Now it will turn over 3 or 4 times fire once and repeats w/o starting. Spark plug and cylinder don't smell of gas after this process.

Spark plug looks good according to service manual, used screwdriver to check spark:there is spark. I'm draining and cleaning gas tank to eliminate that. Other owner topped it off for me.

Any ideas?}}
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2hrcommute
Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Taa daa!!
It was bad gas. I little cleaning and I'm back on my 500 mile a week commute.
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Tada! - Love it!
EZ
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Andreyiv
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi guys, I need some help.

I recently had the head taken off and replaced by a mechanic to fix some snapped header studs. I got the bike back last night and noticed that there is some smoke coming from between the top of the engine and the bottom of the tank. Can't figure out the exact location. Is this something to worry about or could it be new gaskets smoking a little bit?

I'm not sure if this is related but the bike has a the pro series intake with stock exhaust, and #48 and #175 jets. It runs noticeably rich (I can smell it at idle) so I'm going to go back to stock jets tonight.

The boot was fine before giving it to the mechanic. Any ideas what the smoke could be?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It is probably just cleaner and new gaskets smoking (within reason). They may have also left the PCV hose disconnected. It should subside within a half hour and at least decrease the longer it runs.

48/175 is too rich. 45/170 is what you need to run. The 48 is whats causing the richness at idle.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Concur
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Andreyiv
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys. I'll try to check for the PCV hose. I'm assuming that is somewhere on left side of the head/valve cover with a hose going to a canister by the tail light? Or am I mistaken? Would I need to remove the tank to get to it if it is disconnected?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, you'llneed to take the tank off. While (if) you're there, make sure the wiring is plugged into the carb. If thats disconnected it will also run very,very rich.

Have you tried running/riding it and seeing if the smoke goes away?
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Andreyiv
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've replaced the main jet with a 170, will get the 45 tomorrow along with a screwdriver to replace that.

Went out for a ride of a little over an hour and it seems like the smoke has died down quite a bit. It probably was something burning off. It would only smell when the engine got hot. I've also noticed that I'm not smelling nearly as much fuel while riding so I think I'm on the right path.

Thanks for the help guys. Now I just have to see if the primary chain needs to be tightened. I've noticed a rattling type sound and 1-2 shifts are fairly rough as well as an initial N-1 shift.
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Andreyiv
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm back with an update. The smoke is completely gone and the new jets as well as the idle mixture adjustment are working great. No more rich smell and the engine runs well.

I adjusted the primary chain as well, it still had the spacer in there at 2k miles. However N-1 and 1-2 shifts are still fairly rough. N-1 seems to be fine if I rev it with the clutch disengaged in neutral right before the shift but 1-2 shifts are worrying me. It seems to be worse with higher rpms. If I shift fairly soon, it doesn't sound all that bad, but shifting at higher rpms produces a fairly nasty sound. At high rpms there are two fairly loud clunks, maybe one leaving 1st and another getting into 2nd. No matter how deliberately I seem to shift, the two clunks are still there unless I shift very early within 1st gear.

Do you guys know what that may be? Possibly a clutch adjustment is in order?

Thanks again for all the help. I really appreciate it.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Possibly a clutch adjustment is in order?" Yes.
The correct way is to adjust under the clutch cover, then at the cable.
Since removing the clutch cover can be a PIA, make sure, at least for now, your cable adjustment is good (that may 'cure' the problem).
When you do remove your clutch cover, change the trans/primary fluid and change it to synthetic. It will improve shifting and it needs to be done anyway.

Neutral to first and 1st to 2nd has always been notoriously bad. With practice you'll be able to eliminate it.
You are the first I've read to rev the engine up before shifting to first and it helps. Its usually the opposite.
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Andreyiv
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the quick response.

What makes removing the clutch cover such a PIA? Is it the foot peg support?

What is the best way to shift to second to eliminate the racket so I can start practicing it as soon as possible?

About the N-1 shifts, I read that in a post somewhere on this forum. I don't really understand how motorcycle transmissions work quite yet so I can't really reiterate the reasoning I read, but what I do is blip the throttle and as the rpms are falling shift into first. I guess ideally it is right when the rpms hit idle, but even when I do it a little before that it seems fine.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, the Y-frame footpeg support is a pain to remove. 3 nuts that are hard to get at.
Okay, the N-1 shift method as you just wrote sounds good.
Usually waiting until the idle drops helps (shouldnt be more than a minute-about the time it takes to back out of the garage). Just dont rush the first shift of the day.
For 2nd try a slow purposeful shift.
Often x-dirt bike or Jap bike riders try to jam through the gears. Its just not that kind of trans.
There are various ways for both shifts, but an improperly adjusted clutch make both shifts bad anyhow.
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Andreyiv
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I tried a clutch cable adjustment and slow purposeful shifts. The combination seems to be working better than what I had before, although some shifts still seem to be loud with two part clunks to them. Going to do fluid change and complete clutch adjustment over the weekend. Primary tensioner needs to be readjusted after as well, right?

Could there be anything else causing these loud shifts or should I be golden after the fluid change and complete clutch adjustment?

Thanks again for the help.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Primary tensioner adjustment wont change if you adjust the clutch.
You could have another problem, but without making sure all adjustments are correct and changing the fluid, its pointless to look further or assume something is wrong.
All the adjustments and fluid change should have been done at the 1000mile service which obviously, as evidenced by the still present spacer, wasnt done.

Which method did you use to adjust the primary? If you adjusted it by the repair manual, did you go 8 bolt flats* instead of the manual stated 4?

*7-8 flats is good for a fairly new bike. As the chain stretches and the shoe wears or if it was subjected to abuse or an overly tight chain, then the adjustment may need more flats such as the 12-16 that is sometimes suggested.The chain rarely needs adjustment if its done right and the adjustment isnt hyper critical (doesnt have to be exact), but between the above adjustment coupled with the "by ear"method, you cant get much closer. It does take practice (which, if you get it right, you wont get much of!)
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Andreyiv
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I will certainly do the fluid change and adjustments this weekend, I was just wondering if I may have a problem child on my hands and will have to be hunting this shifting clunk for a while.

The primary I adjusted by following the sound method. There was a noticeable sound change when loosening the bolt (after tightening it until idle dropped) which is when I tightened the lock nut.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Into first when cold, even if perfectly adjusted - it will clunk.
EZ
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Rainman
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi guys,

Got a question...sometimes -- and it's a totally random thing that happens a couple of times a week or less -- I'll be cruising to a stop and down shift and the damn tranny won't shift. I'll be stuck stopped in some netherland between gears. I let out the clutch a tiny bit and pull it and then it'll shift through the gears.

No grinding, gnashing or crashing through gears and now that I'm used to it, it's no big deal. Just wondered if there's a problem there of if it's just "character."
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Into first when cold, even if perfectly adjusted - it will clunk." Very true. It can be lessened with practice, but is 'normal' in nature.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Rainman: It can run from a poorly adjusted clutch to bent shift forks, loose shifter drum bolt, incorrect shifter pawl adjustment or? Random is every few months. Regularly is a couple times a week. I've had it happen twice in 8 years. Some report it to be more common.
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 10:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How about a too tight primary adjustment or too thick tranny fluid?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sure! Or overfilled trans fluid can cause problems..
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Rainman
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2010 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How about not enough tranny fluid? I have a slow leak around the part where the clutch cable goes into the tranny housing.

It's history as a Rider's Edge bike tends to make think of something maybe being bent.

I'm running Mobil 1 20w50 in the tranny.
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