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Thumper62
Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Havnt gotten that far, been working 80-100 hours for the past 2 weeks, not much time, but what would be the best way to disable it, -just butt-splice them together? and where are the wires anyway, right by the kickstand? Thanks very much bud.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yes to your questions!
EZ
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Thumper62
Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, so its not Das boot, not the clutch diode, not the kickstand switch. Any way to simply bypass the on-off switch on the ignition and keep my starter? If not, can i simply disassemble the ignition unit on the handlebars, and replace the toggle, or would the problem be more wiring based?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

He meant ignition module. Its usually not a problem in the handlebar switch.
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Thumper62
Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ahh, i should have figured. Is it extremely complicated to replace?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No, as long as you have a repair manual and there are other instructions posted here.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/59815.html?1246573727
The 5 pages of SEI instructions posted at the top of the page will give you and idea of what's involved. Remember those instructions are for a twin and a Blast and for the Screamin Eagle ignition which is slightly (less 1 wire) different.
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Milt
Posted on Saturday, July 11, 2009 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have a 2002 Blast.

A few minutes into my ride today, I flipped on the directional signal.

1) The signal seemed to blink very, very rapidly. I checked and it was, indeed, blinking.
2) The engine started sputtering.
3) The speedometer needle started jumping around erratically.
4) The speedometer back light flickered.

I may be going out on a limb here, but this seems to be one problem not directly related to das Boot !

The speedometer diagnostics are all clear.

Where do I start to troubleshoot this?

(Message edited by milt on July 11, 2009)
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, July 11, 2009 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check your grounds frount and rear for tightness and cleaness, and check your battery for load, and regulator for bleeding.
EZ
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Milt
Posted on Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It was 2 inexplicably loose battery cables. A couple of wrist twists, and all is well.

Thanks, EZ.
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Odawadanny
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 03:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok this is a mechanical question for you buell masters .. Bought a blast and pipes it out with a thundercone and the jets were beefed up too .. Its a bad lil ride and I enjoyed it till last night .. was returning from a 200 mile trip and noticed it tending to stall when stopping and smoking bad .. out the pipe and the crank case valve . Oil consumption has been an issue with this bike spitting it mostly untill now .. I have 6000 miles and am thinking it a bad sticking valave or seat ??? What else besides rings could do this have plenty of compression and it rips the concrete but yet smokes out the breather no matter and out the pipe when hitting the throttle hard .. Please HELP MEEEEEEEEEEE......
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Welcome Odawadanny!
The first question is are you checking the oil correctly? No offense-an oil change takes 1.5 quarts and the Blast is very easy to overfill-a common mistake. The problems you are having could definitely be caused by overfilling with oil.
Second that comes to mind is a bad oil pump drive gear. That will also cause your symptoms. Easiest way to check that is to drain all the oil (including dropping the crankcase plug-DONT overtighten). More than 2 quarts drained-its likely the drive gear or you overfilled it. 3-4 quarts and it almost for sure the pump drive gear.
Using 20w-50 oil? (or thicker).
Your symptoms can be caused by other things but the unique Blast oil system needs to be ruled out first.

Whats a thundercone
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Odawadanny,
Welcome to the Thumper Forum!

(Hey folks, another Blaster in Michigan!)

From your discription it sounds like you have excessive blowby, that is when the piston rings are not sealing and allowing combustion gasses to go past the piston and pressurize the crankcase.

So first things first,
What do you mean when you say crank case valve? Do you mean the PVC(LOL) valve/hose?
Is the PVC vent hose open?(Have you modified the exit location?)

What weight oil are you using? If you are using anything lighter than a 20W-50 that could be the problem.

Are you over filled on oil? Only check when the engine is hot after a ride.

Is your spark plug oil soaked? If so it could be a valve guide seal.

Then you will want to take a compression test and if needed a leak down test to determine the source of low compression....valves or rings.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Copycat ; )



Swampy is our 'Blast Outreach' man in Michigan.
You can count on him!
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Odawadanny
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

All apologies for the misscomunication on my part , I was frustrated having issues with the server and after 10 attempts I just typed my but off lol .. So let me clarify yes another blaster in michigan here .. Pvc valve is what I meant . I modified the exit just today after finding that at freeway speeds of 70 mph my plugs were black and my bike was smoking after 2 hours .. Now with the plug replaced ( Very black of course )I still have smoke out of the modified pvc as well as the exhaust at high rpms ..

Perhaps the oil I am using is the cause ? Will know soon as an oil change is in direct order ! No harley oil here and I had to use kendall 20 w 50 then had no choice but to use top line auto 20 w 50 due to travel and oil loss ie. the pvc venturi route into the carb . Seems right after that all began grrrrrrrrr .. I would be in nirvana if its just oil and not the truely recommended enginered harley oil . I really dont think its compresion as one of the best buell techs just recently modified the exhaust with a thundercone out of california .. This man is brilliant and stated that the engine sounded really damn good as he test rode after all and rejetting .. 500 miles later its smokin like a chimney and now I am wondering if I just need a true oil for the bike not some kendall 4 stroke or penzoil 20 w 50 . No matter this girl always consumed alot of harley 20 w 50 oil .. Typical I am told if you ride it like you stole it , guilty here lmao .. I am a speed demon and love the ride when all is good ... Ill post again with results after the oil change over to Hd 2ow 50 or thicker as soon as I can obtain ......
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think your communication was fine.
20w-50 is fine, no matter what it is.
As long as you didnt plug up the PCV line, it should be okay wherever its pointed (as long as its not pointed directly into the carb).
Really need to be sure you're checking the oil correctly. Yes?
I'd be curious to know what the jetting is and if the needle was shimmed. If its too rich, then it may be slowly fouling out.
Make sure the spark plug wire is connected and the tip is screwed on tight (not loose).
Still dont know what a 'thunder cone' is. A brief web search didnt turn up any usable info. If its a 'torque cone' its garbage.
We are very skeptical of any Buell/HD mechanics. We've seen many Blasts messed up by professionals who think the Blast is just half a twin and treat it that way. Its a common misconception and although the Blast is very simple, treating it like a twin often yields a poor running Blast. Frankly, if you're having problems within 500 miles of him doing the work, I'd take it back and ask him what he thinks. I race a Blast and I know what 500 very hard miles can do to a Blast engine-usually not much (if tuned correctly)!

Are there any other modifications? Did you work on the carb in any way? As you inferred in your post and what is often the case with mods, a problem frequently is caused by the last thing you did to your bike. A stock Blast is very reliable, altering it causes most of the problems.
Its very possible if it was jetted too rich you washed the cylinder hone away.
A compression check may be useful. Holding your finger over the spark plug hole tells you that you have compression, you just dont really know how much. I've seen 70psi-170psi on a running stock Blast.
Did you use the correct spark plug?

PS Swampy is the man!
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Odawadanny
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Right on , I knew that I could get answers here , Let me clarify my header is one used on big twins .often reffered to as a thunder header for harley davidsons .it also has a larger manifold pipe as well .. hated that stock lawn mower sound .. it was jetted at 178 main and 50 pilot .. Will be taking it back as he already thinks its the exhaust valve seat worn ...I know I am not overfilled on oil as it took a while to master the blaster and its oil tank . always checked hot and not overfilled .. It has stock plug in it as well .. Will ride with a new one for a day or two to see if its clean or black as my last one from the trip .. That one was new to start and the previous looked great .. I did run the lil girl at 70 mph for 2 hours plus and then this all began after using gas station 20 w 50 ...Now she seems to bog down and stall when idleing .. Knocks a lil if I dont get the rpms up to 1500 when taking off as well I hear a knock when hitting other low gears .. Still runs like a champ once its up and moving.. I hit 100 mph just last night on the freeway here .. Middle of nowhere lol ...Compression is good and blows my finger off the spark plug hole ..The pvc line was stock during all of this and after the issue began I decided to reroute it to the ground as many do .. the pvc never smoked untill this trip nor did the bike unless you really took it to 5000 rpms or higher then it always blew a lil smoke .. Now it blows smoke out the pvc all the time and out the exhaust at any high rpms ... Sounds like a top end rebuild is in line for me eventually with an 805 cc kit lol .. Might just have to let that be down the road in a few years as a big twin is in my future for travel and the smokey blast will be to ride to work and in town .. Wish you guys were closer so we could just meet up lol .. Hope this answers any tech questions .. Peace brothers another day of work calls me ..
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

50 is too rich with your set up. Sounds like your too rich all around and it is washing the cylinder.
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Spark plug gap is .038-.043 (just in case).
Although the rich plug doesnt indicate it, but the idle problem and knock and ping could be the infamous carb boot.
The smoking and idle, knock and ping are also signs of low compression: (
A 50 slow jet is waaay too rich (especially if your only mod is exhaust). Some here run a 48 which I consider still way too rich. I run a 45 and can start my bike cold without the choke (I have a manual choke).
I've never seen a 178 main jet so I'll assume its a 175. That may be a little on the rich side (your black plug), but its possible with a good exhaust.
And if you've lost compression, running rich will help compensate: ( A compression test is in order and a small hand held one isnt that expensive.
Keep us posted.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

uuh, concur with EZ! (good morning CR boy!)
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Odawadanny
Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sorry its been a few days ,, family loss here and it has been dificult .. My bike is in the shed and will be for a weeks worth of time or more .. I just realised my typo on the slow jet, its set now at 48 mm and the main jet is at 178 ( custom made ) and yes it is just right for the exhaust that was customized ..I understand it could be rings but I am only at 6000 miles now and it was running fine untill the stupid pcv blew a load of oil into the carb . I must clarify thats when all began and I am still in lingo as to how much of it has pluged my carb up ..Ps. The bike had correct compression while in the shop and after .. I dont see how rings could go in 500 miles but hey I am not doubting anyones input .. It will be torn down as soon as the weather here in michigan freezes again and then I will be able to let all know exactly whats going on .. No offense to buell but if its rings in 6000 miles then I must conclude with so many on the cheap parts and crapy labor that was put into these bikes and the reputation they have .. Having a blast seems like having a old sporty been there and was always wrenching on those amf engines .. No matter I bought it and will wind up lengthining the swing arm and putting real tires on it as well as the 805 cc kit with all top end components as well as getting rid of the lamo ignition it comes with .. In time this will be a buell blast that lives up the the name Harley Davisdon .. Take care brothers and live to ride as the grey beards say in our biker culture .......
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Odawadanny
Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ps .. I do have a brand new manifold coupler ..AKA The infamous boot ........
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sorry for your loss.

Doing rings at 6000 miles is not normal, but rings can go very quickly if run too rich (running rich will also thin out the oil). Our normal process of diagnostics here is always going to the last thing you did to your bike. Stock Blasts are very reliable, problems are often of our own making. Your problem may be completely unrelated to the exhaust/carb!

Be sure to check compression before you take it apart and if its low, determine if its rings or valves.
I have a feeling your Blast will be much faster come spring
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Trufflehyla
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I tried searching around, but couldn't find any similar cases. Was this some fluke or something I should seriously be worried about? I've got a stock 2002, on the way to class the other day through some construction there was a bump in the pavement transition, maybe two inches and heard a humming. As soon as I hopped off, it seemed normal, but the license plate had caught the rear tire and rubbed some of the inspection sticker.

I was running 30/32 on oem size pirelli's. The bike only has 5600 miles. I was solo and weight 200lbs and ride with a firstgear tailbag with 5-10 lbs of gear and books.

I've had this bike for about a year now, originally it was in the course.

Look forward to any help/insight.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The plastic license plate frame 'clips' or fits into the underside of the tail section. While bending back under the tire doesnt seem to happen very often, it does happen. Bend the plate backwards and look to the front of the black plastic holder for the tips to fit into to slots in the tail section. Check them periodically. I see many many Blasts where they have come out and do pop out on a regular basis. Yours has probably been 'unclipped' for a long time and may have fatigued to the point where it caught the tire.
The first year Blast had a metal bracket that probably prevented this from happening, but it was 'deleted' for some unknown reason on subsequent years.
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Jhock
Posted on Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok heres the low-down it starts fine, idles for a minute or too and dies or it dies if I touch the gas! I just got the bike. I was told it had been sitting for almost 8 months. What should I do tune up wise and anything else that should be checked after sitting that long. I'm new to my Blast and not sure what would cause this behavior but from what I've found on the site so far it sounds like the intake boot is bad... which seems common. But I'd like to tap the knowledge base for input and ideas! Thanks : )
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Welcome to the Thumper Forum Jhock!

You are right, check the condition/installation of the carb boot.
I would also add fresh fuel to the list and possibly even clean the carburetor.

After you get it running, watch out, you are going to need new tires!
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Welcome! Swampy has the right of it!
EZ
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Trufflehyla
Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

First up thanks to everyone for your help so far. I've been able to mod the airbox with K&N, jetted 45/170, shimmed needle with two #6 washers, just under .05 by my measurements. Especially the low/mid range was much more responsive and gave an all around better experience.

The problem that I am running into now is that it doesn't want to run at idle without the clutch depressed. I was able to warm up with it depressed and it rode normally, once warmed up it didn't seem to have the issue. My though is perhaps the idle screw is too far/too tight (I set it to two and a half) I just want to make sure I am headed in the right direction before I undo something or disrupt something else.

Once I get this squared away I have a 175 main, yost and jardine to install.
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Trufflehyla
Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

After seeing some similarity with the stand and clutch switches I checked them out with a meter. It looks like just reseating the stand switch took care of the problem.
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Crackhead
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 08:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My Blast ran for about 1 mile Saturday. It basically sat for 4 months (Nov to Feb). I drained the tank and carb bowl. The jets are no pluged and filled the tank today (fuel valve is ON). The ignition module flashes red and using a spark tester, I get spark. The boot is on tight.

What should I check next? I am going to let it sit until tomorrow morning and try starting again, in case i flooded it.
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