| Author | Message | ||
     Rockstarblast1 |
ok so i have read alot about the whole rear set thing, but im still confused..... maybe im just slow but seeing im new to the forum i cant figure out how this one really works!!!! lol its nothing like the other forums im on or the vbulletin style ones, but anywho back on topic. i want rear sets, i dont have 400$ to spend on them. i can make some of the stuff on my own if i have pictures to get an idea from or dimensions.... i saw one post that had dimensions to make 2 mounting plates but then what do i do about new footpegs and shifter and break pedal and that good stuff. also i found a pic on i think crossroads website for some clip-ons that look like i could make in about an hr i just dont know how well they would feel... here is the pic | ||
| Krid80 |
where's the pic? | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
 | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
ok so i couldn get it how i wanted im pissed im sure if you look at the crossroads website u will find em | ||
| Ezblast |
Use the X1 new replacement shifter, use any pegs you feel like, use the stock break unit, and follow the instructions for the plates - cost should be 200 - max - with most of that going to the shifter - unless you don't mind shifting racing style - then just flip the stock around - enjoy - then its less than 100 bucks - bars - are a personal choice - but even then some smart shopping can bring all but the best in under 120. EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
break = Brakes | ||
| Ezblast |
Those clip-ons would probably cost around 60 to make - pretty simple deal really. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Making rearsets only seems confusing. Once you make a set you'll be surprised how easy it is. Uses the complete stock brake set up (careful bending the brake line). I recommend using the XB shifter. Its a current stocked part, easy to come by, shifts very well and looks stock. You can even use the stock Blast brake pedal bushing and bolt! Those who've already built them know the small tricks (such as not drilling the shifter pivot bolt hole to deep). Most of the simple ones pictured on Badweb copy the Banke set up. If you cant find the pictures you need, let me know, I'll send you some. The shifter is the most expensive part! | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
Well as for making the clip-ons I'm not worried about the price. It will be free for me as I work in a machine shop and I can get the material for free and use all the equipment here..... for the rear sets I'm just scared to mess something up lol. | ||
| Ezblast |
Just make cardboard templates first and then check them a few times - you should be fine - especially with resources like that behind you. EZ | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
Well if I could get an exact print or draw one up. I might be able to just have it programed on the cad and then run it in the cnc mill so its perfect lol but that's if my boss if feeling nice and we don't have a hot job goin on | ||
| Buellistic |
check THUMPer Forum CORRECTION "ADD" GOT THUMP?(Buell BLAST Photo) ARCHIVES THROUGH November 01, 2006 Post 1 NOV 06 (Message edited by buellistic on January 28, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Could you link it please. EZ | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
also i just looked at the bike. how do you mount the clipons??? the bracket for the head light and or front windscreen is in the way | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Headlight bracket slides down or you can slide the tubes up (which I dont recommend). The only things on the bike to screw up are the drilling the hole in the primary for the shifter bolt (if you go that route) or breaking the rear brake line (braided steel looks better). Everything else has torque specs you can follow. You can use wood or plastic to make templates too as well as using the front pulley cover and primary gasket (or cover). A CNC could make some really nice mounting plates! | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
well i think im going to aim for getting the rearsets done before clipons.... i think for now i will just get the dragbar and say screw it locking..... i just picked up one of thoes locks that you put on your disk so someone cant roll the bike away | ||
| Ezblast |
Welcome to the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
lol ^^^^^^ is that a good thing or bad? im still trying to figure out how im going to do this rear set thing...... and its getting to the point where im gunna hold of with that also and just buy my exhaust..... some reason im gettin very impatient lol | ||
| Ezblast |
A good definition - to go where the factory has not - into the unlit halls of knowledge where only our humble candle lights the darkness - the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Berkshire |
RS - just start with the "fixed points", then figure out the "variables" after that. For rearsets, the fixed points are the pulley cover mounting bolts (take the cover off and mark the holes on a piece of paper) and the rear primary cover bolts (measure a gasket). For bars it's fork OD or bar clamp pattern (34x90mm). The "variables" are things that can be however you want them to be, like how high and far back you want the pegs to be, handgrip location and angle, etc. Think about control positions while you're riding, then look and see where things would fit best, then make a mockup to check for problems and figure spacers and hardware. (Message edited by Berkshire on January 28, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Our forks are 37mm. EZ | ||
| Drbolshaw |
Ed,I was just checkin'out someones homemade Blast rearsets made from scrap diamond-plate,they looked to be functionable and simple to build-good photos,and now can't find that thread again.Any memory of that? Thx,Darren | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/15647.html?1209998480 | ||
| Krjoseph |
How to roll your own Blast rearsets. Nothing here is original, I found it all on a lot of old BadWeb posts. I can’t take any credit. This is just my version of it. A lot of what I learned was from here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/222428.html?1149546134 All the pics of the project are here, plus a few other things I did to the bike that weekend. http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h224/krjoseph/Va lentines%20Day%20Mods/ GETTING STARTED & MATERIALS Give yourself at least 8 hours, but it's relatively simple. If you have average mechanical aptitude, and most Blastards seem to, you'll be OK. My wife went away for the weekend with her girlfriends. That was a huge help.  First, collect your materials. You'll need a 12"x18" piece of 1/4" aluminum plate. Some guys say you can do it with a 12" square, but I like giving myself a little extra in case I screw up. Lots of places online to get metal, I used onlinemetalsupply.com and got 6061-T6 aluminum. Then get the hardware to mount the plates, Grade 8, of course. I got all mine from BoltDepot.Com, but your local hardware store may have it too. I liked Bolt Depot because I could get spacers and odd size bolts, like 3-3/4" (that's 3 and 3/4 Inch, or 3.750 inch, not sure the correct notation, but the first number is the inch, then a dash, then the fraction. clear as mud?) Mounting hardware - left side plate 2 - 1/4" bolts, 3-1/2" long (20 threads per inch (tpi)) 1 - 1/4" bolt, 3-3/4" long (20 tpi) 2 - 1/4 ID (inside diameter) spacers, 1-1/4" long 1 - 1/4 ID spacer, 1-1/2" long Spaces do not come in these sizes, I bought 1 inch spaces, then 1/4 or 1/2 spacers accordingly. Mounting hardware - right side plate 3 - 1/4" bolts, 2-1/2" long (20 tpi) 3 - 1/4 ID spacer, 1-1/2" long This list below will help you with the order, the above list tells you what side gets what bolts. 1/4" 20 TPI Grade 8 bolts 1 @ 3-3/4" 2 @ 3-1/2" 3 @ 2-1/2" 1/4" ID Spacers 6 @ 1" 4 @ 1/2" 2 @ 1/4" Cut the plates out, bolt them on, your half way done. Of course, it's a bit more complex than that. HOW TO CUT THE PLATES I used these as reference for hole drilling, but did not use the shapes. The shape is a personal thing, cut what you want, as long as it works. I found templates here on badweb, not sure who made them, but thank you, your specs were a big help. I didn’t use the shape, but the measurements were handy. I used cardboard to make templates. The right side was pretty much the shape of the sprocket cover. The left was trial and error with the cardboard till I got what I wanted. The I cut the shapes out of the aluminum plate and painted. That was stupid, should have painted much later in the process. I used a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw, with a bit of 3-1 oil to help cutting. Drilling holes tip - always use a tiny bit to drill a pilot hole. Everything will be more accurate and make it easier to drill Drill the holes and bolt them on. Measure everything 3 times, you have to get this right. The right side is easy, you can use the sprocket cover as a template. Mark, drill, check that you can bolt them on. Just threads the bolts a bit for now to make sure they fit. The left side is harder, but use the diagram above as a reference. 6-1/4" between front holes. The back/middle hole is 2-1/8" back and directly centered between the front holes. The diagonal between the front holes and back hole is 3.779 inches, or at least if Pythagoras's theorem is still right. Mark and drill. I cut a 12-pack box into 6-1/4" by 2-1/8" rectangle to help me find the spot for the 3rd hole. Put the bolts in the holes and make sure things line up. If they don't, you probably need to fix it. Mine did the first time. Again, measure everything several times. Decision time. Do you want to mount the plates and then drill the holes for the pegs and controls? Or do you want to drill everything first? I believe the correct way is drill first, then mount stuff up. But I wasn't sure where I wanted everything, so I bolted the plates on, then drilled. MOUNTING THE PLATES Bolt stack pattern: bolt, lock washer, flat washer, plate, spacers, flat washer, engine case/primary cover. Use red locktite. Have you guys tried the locktite gel? Best thing ever. Doesn't run or make a mess. It's in a tube like my wife's lipgloss. Just put a little on the bolt and it stays. Super convenient to use. I forget what brand I used (wasn't official "locktite") but the gel was great. This is the easy part if your holes are lined up. Stack your bolts, add locktite, bolt on. Done. Torque specs: Left side - 8-10 ft lbs Right side (sprocket) - 6-8 ft lbs MOUNTING PEGS AND CONTROLS - LEFT SIDE Shifter - 4 options 1. Buell X1 Accessory shifter (bolts on at bottom of primary cover using primary cover bolts). About $120-$150, depending on the dealer. 2. XB shifter hardware. Tap and drill primary cover. (I think the best option, but didn't feel like opening my primary now. Will go to XB shifter when I tackle some work inside the primary). 3. Old-skool tuber shift linkage - Found my parts on ebay for cheap, I think it was from an S1, but I suspect you could make any work. Used busing from hardware store to mount shifter with the left side peg using a 3/8" bolt. 4. Have no idea if this will work, but saw a HD XR1200 up close. It looks like its shifter/linkage could work. Pegs - generic bolt on pegs. I got the o-ring pegs, lots of places have them online, may do something better someday, but these were cheap. Lots of places sell pegs like this. Bolts on with a 3/8" 24 TPI bolt. Use one long enough to allow room for the shifter. I think was a 2-1/2" bolt. It depends on how you mount the shifter. Just a bolt with red locktite -- bolt, lock washer, washer behind the plate. Between the plate and peg is the shifter. The bushing/bearings/ washers were something I came up with by tinkering with different parts at a real hardware store (not Lowes or HomeDepot). You want to have a solid mount, but not have the peg crush the shifter, yet still need the shifter to rotate freely. I had to cut down a brass bushing, but it seems to work. Shifting feels solid. MOUNTING PEGS AND CONTROLS - RIGHT SIDE This is a little more complex because you have to figure out where to mount stuff. You want the right peg to be pretty much where the left one is. I did it in this order: 1. Peg. 2. Brake lever 3. Remote reservoir 4. Master cylinder. 1. Mount the peg. Simpler than shifter side peg, just mount the peg to the plate, I used an 1-1/2" 3/8 24 TPI bolt, grade 8 2. Figure out where you want the brake lever. I mounted mine just below and slightly back of the peg. Drill and mount. Used a 1/4" bolt, 1-1/4 inch. Has a spacer/bushing on the stock lever. Just put a washer between the bolt and brake lever big enough to keep the lever on. It should rotate freely. I used nylon-stop lock nuts as well as a bit of locktite. Brake note... I drained and disconnected everything. You could do it without, but you still need to let off hydraulic pressure on the line, maybe put a hose on the bleed valve and open it. 3. The remote brake fluid reservoir - Just bolt on near the top back corner of the plate. Not critical to line up, really. I used a 1" long 3/16" bolt, a few washers, locktite and a lock nut. 4. Mount the master cylinder. If you did not disconnect the brake lines, GENTLY bend the hard line to position the MC. I choose to work without the lines to find a good mounting position. Needs to be pretty much over the back end of the brake lever. I mounted on the outside using 1/4" bolts, with a few washer to set the MC away from the plate. A 1/4" spacer could have worked too. The linkage up/down is a tad bit adjustable. Drill the holes, mount, then connect up your brake lever. My clevis pin wasn't long enough, I used a 1/4" bolt with red locktite, lock washers and a lock nut. 5. Bend your break line very GENTLY. Mount to the master cylinder. Refill brake fluid and bleed as necessary. GO FOR A RIDE! Enjoy your new rear sets. Take it easy for a while, your riding position drastically just changed. Get used to it before you start corner carving. (Message edited by krjoseph on February 23, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nice write up, that does take some time to do! PS You dont need to remove the primary to drill the hole for the XB shifter. There isnt any reason too. A safe depth to drill (without striking oil!) is 3/4" or 20mm, which is more than enough to secure the shifter. Use the Blast brake lever bushing and a 1/4" bolt. That way if you strip it out you can still use the XB bushing and 5/16" bolt. If you go too deep you'll need teflon tape or other sealer. Not a big deal, but not preferred. Again, a great detailed write up with online suppliers (never leave the house)! It is much simpler than all that writing makes it seem. | ||
| Krjoseph |
Yep, it really is a simple project. Take's time, but it's basically just a few things bolted together. | ||
| Phoebe |
Hey guys, so does the Buell X1/S1 "improved" shifter bolt right up to the Blast primary case? I'm talking about this one: https://www.ironmachine.com/product_info.php?cPath =70&products_id=205 Part no. 49092-01Y I have the Crossroads engine-mount rearsets on my Blast, but I crashed recently and completely destroyed the shifter. I'm looking to replace it with stock Buell parts (but keep the controls rear-set) so I can actually replace them if/when this happens again. In the meantime, I'm probably going to bend the stock shifter to shape and shift in reverse pattern. Thanks for any advice! | ||
| Crackhead |
the current xb shifter will bolt up if you drill and tap 1 hole. | ||
| Krjoseph |
I want to do that to mine, anybody got the part numbers for everything you need from the XB? |
