| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Knowing what tools to use is a must. The top nut is a bear to get to the Isolator get at and considering that it has 70 ft-lbs. torque on it with who knows how much red-loctite. And you thought getting to the left foot peg was tough... easy compared to this. TOOLS to make the job easy. 11/16" 10 degree offset Box Wrench. 3/8" drive 3/8" Hex bit socket-often referred to as a Disc Brake Caliper Socket. The entire job can be done with the bike on the side stand and the front wheel turned to the right. Support the engine with a floor jack. Follow the instructions in the service manual to remove the Gas Tank and perform the rest of service per the manual. Thanks Niko! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey guys - any other tips for making this easy? - I'm about to do it on my black bike - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I did it again - it was all Terry Parley's fault for giving me that killer header - I used the regular Isolator as well, and if installed correctly - it will do the job just fine, unless you start jumping the bike, or doing 20 or 30 wheelies due to a really great exhaust making the wheel easy to lift in the first 3 gears - lol - just got back from an American Sport Bike Night to again thank Terry P. for that header and try to convince him to make more and sell them to Blastards - with that exhaust system - I can see why Erik Buell liked riding his bike and actually toured the Northern Bay area for a week on it - that exhaust system is the bomb and I do plan on having it copied for the other bike - lol EZ | ||
| Swampy |
What exhaust do you speak of??? | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - Terry Parsley gave me his old LSR header - I connected it to a 4" supertrapp as he had - it was simply made with a constant radius curve ending straight towards the back of the bike - here are the specks as measured twice by me and my buddy Scott to make sure - Measurements for the LSR Header Exhaust combo: Top of header from the Head - od x l: 1 1/2 "x 1 3/4" (I'd say its a built in torque cone, but the master - TP - says it is for the 1st reversion) to 1 5/8" x 8 1/4" to 1 3/4" x 8 1/4" to 2" x 10" to a 2" x 3" m/f connector to the exhaust. The final bend is 2 3/4" from the end and total length is 31" plus 2" (4" coupler) of what the coupler adds to the length - a 33" header to the exhaust - add the 2" to the end before the bend as well - lol - the constant loop you could have bent from a conduit bender - its that smooth a curve - then a slight bend to make it exit under the bike evenly - the result is a very rapid acceleration curve - that beats all the other exhausts I've tried - the only two I haven't personally tried being the Kerker and V&H - I have their dyno #'s though and the Bub has /had simular hp and had better torque - lol - if you want any particular dimension ask and I'll answer tommorow after work. This combined with the 4" Super trap with the 2"header fitting using all 12 discs is the bomb and the sound awesome - a total of 99 bucks plus the custom bracketry I fabed up - if you want pics of them let me know - the total system just rocks -   EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 11, 2008) |
