| Author | Message | ||
     Kovert |
I give up, after another hour or so no luck.. Sure if moves around a tad, but doesn't come off. Doesn't help that there really is nothing to grab to pull it out with.. Just so I'm nut an idiot. In reality, all I need to pull out the 14 screws, the shift lever, and drain the oil. The rest SHOULD be able to stay put correct? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm assuming you pulled of the Y-frame? Did you remove the clutch inspection cover?It wont come off if the " clutch release mechanism" is still on. Did you slacken the clutch cable adjustment? Did you back off the chain adjuster bolt? Pages 6-4 & 6-12 in the manual. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 26, 2008) | ||
| Kovert |
Well reading other posts here through my crazy searches hinted that the clutch components did not have to be touched to remove the cover. The more I take apart, them more likely I am to put something together incorrectly. And yep, took off the frame, and everything else mentioned, loosened the chain tensioner, and removed all the bolts. The only thing I didn't touch were the clutch components. | ||
| Reuel |
If you have a digital camera, take pictures while you're doing it. If not, any small parts can be put on a piece of paper in order of disassembly, with notes written if you so desire. | ||
| Swampy |
You have to remove the clutch components to remove the cover. Remove the lock nut with the spring on it that is located under the clutch adjustment cover, then unscrew the adjusting screw out of the adjusting nut that is located inside the throw out arm/lever. That should allow you to remove the primary cover. | ||
| Kovert |
I feel like an idiot, I'll get it off sometime this week. Baby on the way, and it's taking up quite a bit of time. Plus it's supposed to rain most of the week so I can slowly work on it after work. BTW - 15w50 in both the engine and primary alright? Once again, reading so many posts seems like even just normal 20w50 would work if changed enough (like the cheap supertech 20w50 for like $1.50) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Only 15w50 synthetic in the engine. Otherwise 20w50 dino oil or heavier if needed (unless you ride in winter-real Winter, not SoCal winter). I've found anything thinner than 20w50 synthetic or otherwise in the engine will be used at a higher rate. I only use Redline gear oil in the tranny or genuine HD fluid or HD synthetic engine and trans oil. So I'll let the others weigh in on that. | ||
| Zane |
I'd be interested to know also. It would make like a lot easier if I only had to stock one product in the garage instead of two. I'm running Mobil 15W-50 synthetic (auto) in the engine and if that could go in the tranny too, life would be easier. | ||
| Ezblast |
It can and does - its all I use and am very happy with it. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
Sometimes I use Mobil 1 synthetic 20W50 V-Twin oil, if it's easy to spot at Autozone. Otherwise, I go with 15W50 Mobil 1 synthetic. | ||
| Zane |
I've been really happy with the Mobil 1. When I just use the bike for commuting back and forth to work, it doesn't use any oil at all. This weekend I put my younger boy on the back because he needed some "torque therapy". Went north to find some twistie roads and pushed a little harder than normal. Even two up, it was fun. Then let my older boy ride her. He ran through the turns WOT for about 2 1/2 hours. Through it all the Blast used less than 2 oz of oil. | ||
| Pirte |
Random question...but is the part number for the rocker gasket kit for the blast 17036-91 ? Thanks guys | ||
| Berkshire |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/153226.html | ||
| Sking1973 |
OK, I just picked up my Blast from being at the Harley shop for over a week. My banging noise persists in the rearend, but they haven't a clue as to what the problem is. When I got the bike home, I rode it in first up and down the alley behind my house. I was able to figure out that the noise is coming from the left side and I can feel it in the swingarm. At first I thought it was random clunking, but now it seems to have a definite pattern. The pattern stays but gets faster as a speed up, but doesn't do it if you have the bike in neutral and just push it. I'm aiming at the NEW bearings that they installed, but they say that they were fine when they tore it apart trying to figure this problem out. The bearing spacer was also firmly in place and the torque was correct on the axle bolt...they say. This is getting really annoying, but there is only so much I can do as a shadetree mechanic. Again, any ideas from you guys would be great. | ||
| Ezblast |
Its something loose - check your brake pedal, muffler mounts, etc. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Sking1973, I would check your wheel bearings yourself. Remove the wheel, and check them by hand while they are installed in the wheel. Noise while moving....bearings. Are you any place close to Lansing Michigan? If you want to bring your bike to me I will look at it for you. | ||
| Sking1973 |
Thanks Guys. I am actually going to attempt to pull apart the rear wheel and check the bearings myself using the instructions that I found on here and my shop manual. Swampy, Unfortunately, I'm not too close to Lansing. I'm down in Southeast Ohio. The closest HD shops (other than my local) are around an hour away or I would take it to one of them to look at. I hate to spend any money more at another shop if my local messed it up to begin with. I'm trying to find an independent shop that will work on my bike it the need arises...like I get it apart and can't get it back together!  | ||
| Sking1973 |
"Its something loose - check your brake pedal, muffler mounts, etc." EZ, Did all that, and everything seems to be firmly in place including the brake caliper and pads. Next it's to the bearings.  | ||
| Johnnymac |
Sking, my blast was making a rattling noise in the rear as well recently and I was puzzled over what it was too. Sounded like it was the swing arm or rear brakes but all seemed solid. Finally found it when I realized the little bracket on the swing arm that holds the rear brake line secure to the front of the swing arm had pulled out of the mounting tab. It is rubber and apparently tore loose. Anyway, the bolt from the bracket was rattling slightly against the swing arm and causing the noise. Was one of those obvious things that we all overlook sometimes. Hopefully for you it may be the same thing. ~Johnny | ||
| Jonny5 |
Bought a 2001 Blast last Spring - love it! It has just over 5,000 miles on it. Yesterday I hopped on to go to work and the bike turned over but wouldn't start, I kept trying and eventually by battery started to die. I plugged in the battery tender and took the Geo to work (man, I hate that thing!) When I got home from work I unplugged the bike and it started right up, took it for a short spin and then plugged it back in - just to be sure it would start in the morning. Unplugged it this morning and the same thing happens - it tries to start but won't. When I finally gave up this morning I noticed a thin wiff of smoke coming out of the air box. Could this be caused by the Boot? Any insight would be appreciated. | ||
| Ezblast |
2001 - could well be just a bad battery - it may not be holding a charge. After that, then check das boot! EZ | ||
| Jonny5 |
Thanks Ezblast, any idea what might be causing the smoke? J5 | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats a reversion huff - happens - more when the boot is trash, however, I would suspect the battery first. EZ | ||
| Jonny5 |
Thanks, I'll try a new Battery. J5 | ||
| Adroit |
So, I'm not sure if this is the best area to post, but here it goes anyway. I have a '04 Buell Blast and it has a problem that I don't know where to start. Here's the problem: The bike will start and idle, once I start to let the clutch out it will kill itself. Now, this happened the next morning after riding it home in the rain. I was able to go a block and then it died and I had to walk it back. Ok, so today I was curious what its state was, so I started it and it did the same thing, but this time I felt backpressure coming from the airbox next to the carb. I started it back up and it didn't want to start and idled really low and the gave out and a little bit of smoke came out from the airbox. So, any ideas whats going on? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Adroit! (I've moved your post to the "Diagnosing problems" Thread). Its probably a bad kickstand safety switch or neutral safety switch. Reversing the clutch diode will eliminate the problem as will joining the 2 wires at the kickstand switch together. Clutch diode is easiest so try it first: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html | ||
| Roysbuell |
This morning it was about 40 degrees. Bike spends the night inside so the bike wasn't very cold. I started it let it warm about 3 mins. Then started off, I walked it to the middle of parking lot as usual, kicked it down into first and started to let out the clutch, then right as the clutch reached th friction point and it started rolling I heard a noise similar in sound and feel to when you shift. On my ride to work I heard/felt the noise 4-5 times leaving red lights. I would kick down to first then as the clutch begins to engage after the bike was already rolling I would hear/feel something like it wasn't really in gear and it was popping into gear. | ||
| Swampy |
I would start with a refreshing of the primary fluid and a readjustment of the primary chain tension and make a clutch adjustment. If that doesn't do it I would adjust the shifter pawl and check the crankshaft sprocket nut for loosness. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Roysbuell |
Yea, ummm I'm going to need a repair manual. Where can I get one? |
