| Author | Message | ||
     Er_blaster |
I am going to take that advice (the same thing I said to myself before having the bike parked in my garage). I spent 50 miles under 20mph practicing starts and stops in my neighborhood and started itching for some open spaces. I lost it while making a U-turn at a dead end with gravel ditches on either side of the road , trying to keep my feet up when I just should have babied the clutch and walked it, my front tire caught the edge of the gravel and the rest is history. I now know that I have to keep an eye on my judgment as well as the people driving around me. Thanks for the wisdom ER_Blaster P.S. the online price for shift lever/pedal is 40 dollars, does that sound right? | ||
| Swampy |
Time to upgrade to a different shifter lever! | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
hey guys i own a 2001 blast that i just got and i love it. however, sometimes at idle like at a stop sign the engine revs real high and wont stop. any help would be appreciated. thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
Das Boot! | ||
| Swampy |
If you have a stock air cleaner setup you want to install the boot but do not tighten the clamps until all the air obx mounting bolts are tight and the air box is not moving around anymore. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You probably just need toe peg kit part# N0549.BA about $15. The toepeg is designed to bend when the bike is dropped, instead of bending the shifter (and possibly damaging the transmission). You can substitute a 5/16" coarse thread bolt, but it wont bend as easy and might cause you to bend the shifter when you drop it again. This time round I'd use the stock part. PS the stock shift lever is fine. If its too long, you can add another toe peg! | ||
| Berkshire |
If the toe peg is bent, you can just bend it back. If the lever is bent, you can take it off the bike and hammer it out straight. A shorter sportster lever will work, but nothing else offers the fine adjustment like the Blast lever. To shorten it, you just drill & tap 5/16" UNC where you want the peg to be, then cut off the extra length. | ||
| Reuel |
I got you beat, Er_Blaster! I was parking in front of my motorhome at a park, and fell over on one single piece of gravel!!! How do you like them apples?! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Or leave both pegs in for an even nicer shifter. | ||
| Wildlands |
Been reading as much as I can on here the last couple of days. You can easily over load your brain with all of the info. I purchased a black 07 blast with 1146 miles this week. I know there are a few cosmetic things I want to change already and have been reading about them, windshield, bags, better headlight. Most of the mods I have been reading about thou reduce fuel economy for better performance. Besides being a first motorcycle and needing to learn the fuel economy was one of the reason I got a blast. What mods would you recommend I do that would not effect my fuel economy but would increase performance. I do not want loud pipes. I have a small farm and do not need to scare the livestock as I come up the drive. The bike was purchased under the assumption that the buell dealership do the 1000 mile service and check the bike out. I had them go ahead and change out the fluids to synthetic and have ordered me a K&N filer to go in it. This will become my daily commuter and as I get more comfortable maybe even some small trips. Any help is appreciated. | ||
| Reuel |
Somewhere in the carburetor section is a set of instructions on how to increase airflow on your intake air box. A few have tried making a second hole in the back of the muffler, on the opposite side from the existing hole. On the more expensive side, a higher compression piston, or even a 515cc kit with higher compression, can give you better gas mileage. On the other hand, that gives you more power as well, and if you're like a lot of Blasters, you'll be more inclined to use that extra power, which negates the increased efficiency. If you can keep your wrist under control, increasing compression gives you better mileage. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Wildlands! Concur with Reuel. Unfortunately the stock exhaust is very restrictive and limits performance. Changing out the exhaust is the easiest cheapest single most effective way to extra power. It can also increase fuel economy. Besides an exhaust, an airbox mod and raising the compression, virtually every other modification that results in more power will use more gas. Thats how the performance game goes. An XB top end can give you better performance and possibly even better gas mileage, but not without a different exhaust. The Blast is really not that loud with an aftermarket exhaust compared to Harleys or 4 cylinder bikes. I'm not a 'farm boy', but its not often I see anything "running for the hills" when the Blast goes by. When passing horses I'm always very, very easy on the gas (no matter what bike I'm on) as well with passing any other large livestock. The Blast is easy to keep quiet and Jardine does make an exhaust with an optional silencer core. Pirelli tires (if not installed already), a different seat and handlebars can make a huge difference on comfort and handling. | ||
| Wildlands |
Thanks for the ideas, I will keep all of it in mind. On the exhaust is there any others beside the Jardine with the silencer core that are quiet. The noise as far as the animals is really only a problem around birthing time. Scaring them or making them run as they are in labor is not good at all. I still have some warranty left on this bike. If I change out the exhaust will it void the warranty? | ||
| Ezblast |
Hell - my gas mileage would be terrific if I wasn't WOT 1/2 the time and 2/3 to 3/4 the rest - lol - good luck with your mileage - Ralph installed a 883 jug/piston/head for a miser motor project but is now afraid he blew a main bearing - though as yet not sure - so the long term is still out, but his preliminary was no better than my hot-rod - which can get 62 if gentle for the week - usually during the wet season - lol - still a 30% group does get great consistent hi mileage - so it must be riding style - what style of riding would promote high mileage and be safe? I personally try to practice a smooth quick pace - the kind that leaves traffic behind but isn't an instant bust due to acceleration. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Your warranty is only as good as the dealer servicing it. They'll put a big bore kit on a Harley and keep the warranty, but change the carb jetting on a Blast and void it. Though warranties should be standard, it can depend on the dealer. I think the only change that I'm certain wouldnt void the warranty is using a K & N filter. Ask your dealer about anything else. Ask twice! | ||
| Reuel |
Ask several different people, including the service manager. You might even ask them to put it in writing. | ||
| Indybuell |
You can always call Buell Customer Service as well. | ||
| Wildlands |
A few questions. I am installing an IX27b plug, I have already change the air filter over to a K&N, I am now looking to rejet. If I am reading correctly I am to use 45/170 and turn the idle mixture out 2 1/2 turns from bottom is that correct. I have also taken the breather tube out of the stock air filter. For now I just turned the t valve on the main hose up. DO I need to take it and the rest of the hose completely out and run one continuous hose. If I run one hose and I am reading correctly I will not need to vent it since I am not putting a catch can or anything on the end of the hose and just letting it vent out near the rocker arm. Is this correct? | ||
| Ezblast |
1st paragraph - correct! Second - take off all the airbox hoses, pot some black duct tape over the hole, reroute breather and add a K&N filter or other breathing type that lets air pass but not the gunk. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Some Blasts will spew tons of oil out that breather hose. A short hose just leaving the rocker cover may leave the entire back of the bike coated with oil. It can also clog a breather filter pretty quick. I'd suggest running a hose far and low until you find out how much oil you're going to blow out. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur - it really depends on how often you'll be riding above 5000 rpm - lol EZ | ||
| Blastlvr |
Hi all, Still putting the miles on the bike. I've got a question about downshifting (power downshifting) this bike. I read somewhere on this forum that the rear tire will "lock up" when you power downshift. You know, when you are trying to get some extra torque, downshift when the rpms are higher, and WHAM -sprint away. I ask, because I've found that sometimes when I'm trying to merge some jerks will try and race me (even when people are behind me) and I'm full throttle trying to get ahead of the jerk. Normally I would downshift, but since I read that the back tire tends to really bite, in fact "locks up," makes me extremely hesitant to try this at higher speeds. So, I open the floor to the more experienced Buell Blast riders (than myself that is). Thanks! | ||
| Reuel |
You don't get lock up. If you downshift to the point that your rear tire would push the engine past the rev limit, you may get some skidding that is similar to locking up ABS brakes. Your rear tire will just spin a little more slowly than you're going. If you're not downshifting to the point that you're going to exceed the rev limiter, you're fine. | ||
| Swampy |
Don't worry about it, it takes alot to get the tire to break loose if you are already moving, unless of course you are really into a corner, leaned over, and you hit some sand or something. | ||
| Reuel |
Another note--I've never had the rear tire skid. I've done some pretty crazy things, too. Well, that's not true. During an advanced motorcycle course, I did hit my rear brake harder than I should have, and got a bit of rear skid. And there was that time in Missouri when a phantom storm came in and tried to blow me off the road. I had gone too many miles on those Dunlops, too. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It only 'locks up' if your trying to slow down. Downshifting to accelerate isnt usually a problem unless you go down too many gears. One at a time is sufficient and under throttle, you'll be very smooth with practice (unless you're already at redline, but I think you'd know that). Jam it down too many gears at the track and you'll find out why they make slipper clutches!!! | ||
| Blastlvr |
Thanks! I will try and downshift next time I need an extra boost. I have had the rear tire skid when braking hard (driver in front slammed on brakes right out of a curve -talking on their cell phone). It was no big deal, I just rode it out the skid. I did this during my Riders Edge class too. same result... kept the rear brake on and all was fine... Although the instructor did point out that it was better to NOT have the rear tire skid (hey, he did say brake hard). I've also practiced both fast braking w/out rear tire skid and w/ rear tire skid (I use front brake too...progressive squeeze). The bike seems pretty stable during rear tire skids. Of course, this all occurred under great road conditions. | ||
| Reuel |
I've found that if you're putting much more than the weight of your foot on the rear brake, you're doing too much. | ||
| Blastlvr |
Next time I hit the parking lot for braking practice, I'll try to find the hard braking "sweet spot" for my rear tire. | ||
| Blastlvr |
Hello all, I was riding on the highway the other day at about 70-75 mph. Some traffic ahead of me slowed down fairly quickly, so I slowed down fairly quickly in response. My bike, a 500cc 392 pd. Buell Blast (modified), did this weird subtle wobble (nothing obvious at all -just perceptible to me -I think). I'm not sure if the "wobble" was caused by how I slowed down my bike or if it was a reaction by my bike to slowing down so quickly at that speed. I slowed down by rolling off the throttle a little (not a lot at all -a small adjustment) and used a little brake (both front & back). This is my normal procedure when braking quickly. I've never had the "wobble" response from my bike. In fact, I have always had nice tight braking from my bike. But, then again, I've never slowed down that quickly from 70-75 mph. So, my questions are... was this a normal response? a normal response for my bike? Or, was this response caused by my braking protocol? At any rate, what can I do to prevent it or is it okay? Thanks! |
