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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Recalls, Tech Bulletins, Notices, & Concerns » Archive through September 19, 2008 « Previous Next »

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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2007 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hose clamp and safety wire !!!
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Jimrich
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Somewhere in the archives there is a set of pictures that show each of the components of an oil filter. Some are pressure fitted together. I would like to know what brand? Can you take some pictures of the bike and filter?
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Mikej
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did the filter come unscrewed, or did something else happen?
When it started coming loose did the oil light come on?
Be thankful that they're running the warranty option on it.
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Buuueller
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a Goob employee that changed the oil in our shop truck. And when he pulled the old filter off, the seal from it stuck to the engine block.

After installing a new filter, he hand tightened like normal. But the extra seal allowed it to come lose on its first drive after wards.

Guess who was driving it? Luckily my Spidey sense told me that the smoke that was coming from underneath required a quick pit stop.

I had a nice walk that day.
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Dizzle
Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First, I want to say that this site is great! I am the service manager for an H-D/Buell dealer and just recently visited the site for the first time. I have encountered at least 3 of my customers stories on this site and like the feedback that was given to them in the face of their uneducated, Buell bashing. Sounds like some other dealer/Buell personnel on this site so I would like to pose a question for all...What issues have you seen regarding shifting problems, especially on the Rider's Edge bikes?
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Slowhand96
Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Dizzle

I didn't have riders edge bikes, but I had a fleet of six blasts at a MSF school in Minnesota. When we liquidated the fleet I wound up with three of them. All of them had shifter (shifting) problems. Two of them had the same problem going into first gear.
When shifting into first from neutral they would grind a bit or slam into gear. Then as you let out the clutch and the bike began to move there would be a very harsh second slam as the bike lurched forward. This only happened from neutral after sitting a bit. Like stopping for a light and putting it in neutral, letting out the clutch, then shifting to first and going again. The other bike had similar problems plus it was very difficult to put it into fifth. Adjusting the shifter pawl, chain, and clutch fixed this problem on two of them but one bike still does it and the other is still difficult to get into fifth.
Thanks for the concern!!
Chuck
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shift drum pins coming out a bit, shift pawl needing adjusting, detent plate, main bearing and wheel bearings trashed, but usually its just a cracked boot or primary needing adjusting.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Self induced rider problems !!!
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome over here to the Thumper Forum!

Just like what was mentioned above, Shifter pawl adjustment, primary chain adjustment and a clutch adjustment. Typically the primary chain is adjusted too tight for the Blast, and that causes the transmission input shaft to (damn spell check, C*O*C*K)I mean the chain will actually put enough pressure on the clutch basket bearing to cause it to deviate from center, and that causes a clutch that drags, plus it causes a variety of cold start and idling problems.

Good luck!
Let us know!
And come back often!
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Dizzle
Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks to all for your feedback. I appreciate the info about the primary chain being too tight and causing stalling/hard starting--what torque or procedure do you recommend instead of the 24 in/lb?? We run the bikes for two seasons in the Rider's Edge program and pretty much every one of them ends up with shifting issues, most of them ending up with the 1st/2nd shift fork(the middle one) being frozen onto the shift drum. When removed, we find a __/\__ (roughly)shaped impression in the shift fork that perfectly matches the shape of the groove in the drum. H-D/Buell is aware of this problem (we have filed numerous warranty claims and returned the parts) but seems to have no recommendation on what caused this and/or how to prevent it. We also see that the dogs on the 1st and 3rd mainshaft gears are rounded over, like the gears aren't meshing all the way or that they are popping out of gear. My theory is that when the bike grinds into gear or jumps out of gear, it stresses the fork and binds it on the shaft, where it freezes up and then prevents shifting at all. With the auto-enrichener active and the super-high idle speed, the bikes will always grind into gear if not FULLY warmed up. Any thoughts??? Thanks!!
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

24 in/lbs is fine just go about 5 to 7 more flats out - a little loose is good, if they are going to continue using the bikes then the simple answer is to buy the Baker drum kit - problems from that area will lessen greatly - and if I have to split my case - you bet I'm investing there as well as new gears - we'll see - from what I've heard - its pricey but it is bullet proof - 3 times the price of the stocker but a total improvement in everything, the tranny if you have the bucks is also well machined - might as well go 6 speed - don't ya love the dark side;0)
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a better, more precise way to adjust the "BLAST" Primary Chain !!!

"AND", it is not in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL or POSTED on the THUMper Forum !!!
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes - well please tell us what the method is? I and others would like to know!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Fast1075
Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To dredge up yet another old thread...Dizzle mentioned rounding of the gear dogs...the offending tranny can be sent off to any of several (I can supply names if needed) trans specialty shops to have the gears backcut...a process where the dogs are machined to have a "dovetail" shape...the new profile will cause the gears to pull together...(a lot of current import bikes are like that from the factory...and as for parts wearing...like the drum and forks where it appears they wear because of the lack of heat treating...the parts can be cryogenically heat treated. In a personal case, I have a mud jeep with a 2.5 four banger...I regularly turn the heavily modified motor to 7.5k+ rpm, and the rocker stands would rapidly wear...i had a set of stands cryoed and the wear is no longer an issue...a friend that is a prominent prostock engine builder uses the process on his valvesprings...increasing the life cycle from 4 passes to 20+...it is not a pretty sight to see the carnage when a Zuke breaks a valvespring at 13k...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If only we had a trap door...
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Reuel
Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would probably think it was a pretty sight, but that's just me.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik - I know what you mean - its so obvious that the reason they do keep the Blast tranny as is is because it is also parts for the Tubers, if only they had given us the Tuber trap door as well - life would have been soooo easy.
EZ
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Vannossc
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have 2008 Blast. Love it except for the cranky shifting into 1rst and 2nd gear. Only 260 miles so far on it - should it improve? Planning a synthetic oil change soon as well.

---------
New Buell rider who lives on where else....Buell Ave.
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It'll get better with time and better oil. You'll also get better at shifting.
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Ben_hillman
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello everyone. I am new to the forums here. Thank you to all who have contributed. This is a gold mine of information here!

Anyway, I am looking at a 2002 Blast, it has 1600 miles on it. Is there anything I should look for before buying it? I have heard that the earlier 2002 models still have the paper Rocker Box Gasket, but the late 2002s have the
newer metal gasket? This one is an August 2002 model. Does anyone know anymore information on this? Thank you very much!
-Ben Hillman
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Probably will need a rocker cover gasket replacement.
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome Ben!
Probably not!
August 2002 is very late in the model year and probably has a metal gasket. Mine is a Jan 2002 and had the metal gasket.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1600 miles is barely broken in and you shouldnt have any problems, even if they didnt do the first service, its only 600 miles late.
Do ask if its been in a crash. Scratches on the flyscreen or a broken headlight trim ring are common signs. If the Y-frame front foot pegs seem bent in, that can happen from a drop at low speed or standing still.
Look for a mark on the engine from the lower front frame to engine tie bar mount. That means a hard crash, but not necessarily problematic.
Look at the rear bodywork tailpiece. Not necessarily from a hard crash, but even if they fix everything else in a crash, this always seems to be forgotten and misaligned. (look where the coloured plastic meets the silver frame-also may look tweaked from the rear of the bike).
Blasts tend to take a crash very well. This will give you a bargaining power and let you know if the crash was particularly hard.
If the trim ring around the gas cap assembly isnt flush (IE its raised up), that usually means the tank was off for some reason.
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a couple blastards here have the raised rubber ring around the gas cap. anything they can do to get it to stay down again?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup, push it down!
Pull off the front dipstick ring and unbolt the tank panel, then work the ring down. If it seems really difficult use something like ArmourAll on the rubber and it should slide down easy. Its really just taking the time to push it down and it could be done without unbolting anything (Its like bubble wrap to me. When I see a Blast with the trim ring up and I almost cant help myself but to push it down. Really tough not to do that at a dealership!)
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thats what i thought but they wont go down...
armour all it is
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To: All Buell Dealers

Subject: Safety Recall Campaign 0835

Dear Buell Dealers:

Buell Distribution Company, LLC. has decided that a defect relating to motor vehicle safety may exist on certain 2007 and 2008 model year Buell Blast model motorcycles built May 29, 2007 through June 03, 2008.

The fuel tanks on these Blast model motorcycles may experience some local deformation under high-heat conditions that creates contact of the tank with the cylinder head. In some of these cases, the head rubbing on the fuel tank has created a fuel leak. This could result in a crash or fire, which could cause injury or death to the rider.

We have voluntarily declared this a defect related to motor vehicle safety (Campaign 0835) to allow us to formally recall all affected motorcycles. The remedy is to remove bracket part number P0044.T and replace it with a new bracket which prevents the fuel tank from contacting the cylinder head. A service bulletin outlining the repair and credit procedure will follow within two weeks. Based on the schedule our supplier has provided we expect to begin shipping our first wave of repair kits, on or before the week of September 15, 2008.

In the interest of the safety of our mutual customers and as required by law, you may sell but NOT DELIVER any affected motorcycles to your customers until the remedy is completed. Please refer to h-dnet.com on the Service Page/Safety and Product Campaign/Open Safety Campaign Instructions and the Safety Campaign and Open VIN Lists in the Service Toolbox for an updated list of affected VINs for this recall. Select the appropriate campaign number link (0835) to view any outstanding vehicles involved.

If your dealership sponsors a Rider’s Edge training program utilizing 2007 or 2008 model year Blasts built in the date range above, please inspect these motorcycles before and after every class event to confirm that the clearance between the right side cylinder head fins and the right side of the fuel tank’s tunnel is 1/8 inch or more. If the clearance is less than the 1/8 inch minimum, the motorcycle must be removed from Rider’s Edge duty until the recall service is completed.

In accordance with Federal regulations administrated by NHTSA, Buell Distribution Company, LLC will provide notice to all owners of record of affected products with direction to bring the vehicle in for the recall service.

Sincerely,

Buell Distribution Company, LLC
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Duly posted in all Buell Forums that I know of.
EZ
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Evilbetty
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm double posting a bit here but felt this topic may be a better place for this.

I rode it on the highway to work today. Once I got out of the inner city stop and go, I got the bike up to 55 for about 2 minutes before the back end of my bike literally exploded. I was damn near thrown from the bike. I pulled the clutch and tried to down shift but I could not switch gears. I looked right pulled to the side of the highway.

After I dismounted I began to look at the bike. First thing I noticed was that the belt was around the axle. Then noticed why, the sprocket was all but gone... there is a third of it still there. Upon further inspection I realize that one of my turn signals is hanging... the other one, along with the tail light is completely gone save some wiring dangling. The entire underside plastic and my license plate are mutilated. And to top it all off my brand new Avon tire has a huge gash in it and is now flat.

I look around and realize I am a 1/4 mile from the Harley Dealership. I try to put the bike in neutral, but soon remember I have no drive belt anyway. I start pushing the bike to the dealership before I realize a) I am on the side of the highway and have two busy intersections to push through, and b) Harley would come get me with a phone call.

While waiting on them to show up, I remember that there was a recall for this exact failure. I never worried about it though because the previous owner had given me a receipt for a repair last year in which she had to replace the rear wheel and sprocket assembly due to worn wheel bearings.

After I get to the dealership I get the "wow sucks to be you attitude". After bringing up the recall and raising a little attitude myself. They agreed to replace the wheel and sprocket but told me I would likely be on my own for the rest of the repairs.

Have you guys EVER heard of something like this happening? In my opinion this is a catastrophic failure of an OEM part with a design flaw of some kind. One documented in their own recall. And since I have had all work done at HD and just recently had it safety inspected and got a health check from them... this is on them to repair.

Am I wrong?

Overall


Brake Light, Blinkers, Plate, and Sprocket


Sprocket


Fender / Belt Cover
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Evilbetty
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2008 - 12:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Recall Information
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php? s=899084162a9ca6303bacbad4d17c2812&t=99464

A familiar story
http://aboutpolitics.com/complaints/2000/BUELL/BLA ST%20P3/585798
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