| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Check for a break near the neck where it connects - most likely area. EZ | ||
| Jerzydevil |
Check the fuse too. Since it was wet when u hit it, it might have shorted the fuse. | ||
| Wolffsoul |
Thank you EZ. I will try that this week. | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
just an update i'm still waiting on the boot and such to come in...but i did get ahold of a ngk iridium plug so i put that in. the old plug was very white with only 500 miles on it...so now i know its lean. got the jets today, waiting on the other parts to do it all same day(but not at once so i know what fixed or hurt what). i went for a test ride for the new plug w/o a helmet and noticed an exhaust tick. so i checked the header bolts and clamps. all of them were about half what the spec torque was supposed to be. so after tightening them the tick is gone. i'm hoping that helps the hesitation a little. p.s. i got super bike bars and they rock my world. and the iridium plug is nice too. will update after the rest of the parts show up. | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
ok so i have... replaced plug replaced boot rejetted and shimmed carb cleaned k&n resealed exhaust and i still have that hesitation and its getting worse as the days warm up. i'm ordering an ignition module today. any other idea's? | ||
| Swampy |
I think you will find that it is the ignition module, ship you old one to RUEL and he can fix it. | ||
| Bluetopcb |
Trans slips in 1st ONLY like the clutch is slipping. The clutch is adj fine and does not "slip in any gear. When 1st is "IN" you can do burnouts so the clutch is OH-SO-WONDERFUL I guess. It is way weird. 1st clunks hard when putting it in and then "SOMETIMES" acts like in engages but then acts like a slipping clutch then grabs hard and off you go...not nice!....PLEASE help | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Bluetocb! My guess is it only does it when its cold on just the first or second take off of the day? While there is internal transmission problems that can cause this, usually doing a thorough adjustment at the clutch, then the cable eliminates this problem. While you're at it make sure the fluid is good and the chain is adjusted properly too. | ||
| Ezblast |
While primary is loose - Shift Pawl Adjustment. and Drum Pin Standardization needed, then reassemble, clutch primary adjustment, then clutch cable adjustment, then primary adjustment. Should shift better than new - make sure you don't overfill trans - or you can have symptoms similar to what you are describing as well. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I have a module that works and is free to a good home (shipping not included). Works may not be entirely accurate. It will be different as it seems to have a rev limiter problem. I never ran it more than 10 miles at a time so I have no idea if it breaks down over longer rides. | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
thanks for the info everyone i just ordered a new ignition from iron machine. i hope that fix's things. so should i replace the cam bowl thing with the new ignition? anything else i should do while i'm in there? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No & no. Let us know when you get it. Pulling apart the Deutsch connecter is a pain. 2 minutes work if you know how, an hours frustration (or more) if you dont. | ||
| Reuel |
That clutch slip thing--if you start out in 2nd gear, it'll do it then, too. I sometimes find myself not in 1st because I forgot, and it slips then, too. Cold, wet weather and cool mornings are when it happens most. | ||
| Bluetopcb |
Thanks for all the responses..I think it is in need of Shift Pawl Adjustment and Drum Pin Standardization like EZBLAST said. I know the clutch adj is correct because I just did it. and it never slips in any other gear. I just checked the chain and changed the fluid putting the correct amount in. I will take it all apart this weekend and tell you how it went..Thanks Again | ||
| Bluetopcb |
OH YEA.....the speedo just stopped working. I took the speed sensor out ...cleaned it re-installed it and still nothing...before I buy a new sensor is there a way to make sure the speedo is good? The Odometer and all lights inside the speedo are working but no speedo .... | ||
| Luke_sidewalker |
I use my Blast as a daily commuter from Jacksonville, FL to King's Bay, GA. About 100 miles round trip daily. Just recently she started stalling out at idle. Ran perfect at highway speed though. Took it apart tonight and sure enough, the carb/intake boot had about a 2 inch tear in it. Replaced it and she runs like a champ again. When it comes to troubleshooting, the maintenance manual is nothing compared to the great information posted on this website! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Ezblast |
Blue - you just described the conditions of only the sensor being kaput - the rest of the speedo is working fine. If nothing is working, then the speedo gauge itself is shot. EZ | ||
| Bluetopcb |
Thanks EZ..thought so..same as the big bikes then..ZOOM! | ||
| Bluetopcb |
Hey guys...had a GREAT visit with Swampy and his son...lots of great insight. We re-adj the shifting pawl and I finished all up when I got my seal and gaskets and re-adj the primary chain...but it still is acting up when starting in first...guess it is a thumper thing. Gunna let my buddy ride it for a few hundred mile and see if it works itself out. Finding neutral IS much easier now though...THANKS SWAMPY FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!! OH... EZBLAST.... I replace the speed sensor and the speedo works perfect. | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
*update* got the ignition in. that connector wasn't bad. just looked up online how to remove. i also retarded the timing a lil. no more weird hesitation! also got the k&n in and made a custom 8mm accel spiral core plug wire. runs like a champ and i can really feel the power band kick in now. | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
ok sooooo i got ambitious and checked my tps. it was all the way clockwise and the voltage read 1.3v naturally i started to adjust and found that all the way counterclock wise it still read .6 so being that the ideal read is .5 +/-.02 thats not good. i also noticed that when rolling the throttle slowly it chokes the voltage meter around 2.0v so i have deducted that the tps is bad. my question is that when the tps was all the way clockwise, my air/fuell was perfect even with blipping the throttle. now with it all the way counter clockwise(and as close to the proper voltage read out)it is running real rich and leans way out when i blip the throttle. is this natural when adjusting the tps? or is it a result of the bad tps? i'm jetted 48/175 with a sportster needle. k&n and v&h, ez airbox mod new slide assembly and ignition ngk iridium plug, new 8mm plug wire josh | ||
| Dummkauf |
Had some throttle issues this afternoon that I'm not sure if I should be worried about or not. This morning I got up and washed the Blast, then took it out for a ride with a friend for most of the day. The throttle worked fine for the first two hours then when I was heading down the freeway the throttle started sticking pretty bad. I pulled off and called the local harley shop that was a couple miles away who informed me they were closing in one minute. it looked like the throttle cable just needed to be lubed so we tried a little WD-40 from the gas station which freed the cable up a little but not much. Left with no other options I headed home, and about half way home the throttle quit sticking and is now snapping back when I let go again. I'm assuming the WD-40 worked it's way down the cable. I'm up to 4,700 miles on the bike and the shop manual recommends lubing the throttle cable at 5,000. So my questions are 1.) Could washing the bike in the morning have caused this, and if so why would it take 2 hours after the wash to happen. 2.) I know WD-40 isnt' the recommended lube, is there anything I should be worried about because I used it? 3.) Any other possibly hypothesis as to what might have caused this | ||
| Ezblast |
Twisty - yes your fine DK WD40 is used by some folks for that purpose , at a more frequent interval, use the regular stuff - cable lube. If you just changed the boot the clamps tongue may be catching on the throttle - happened to me. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
I haven't made any changes to the bike at all since I changed the handlebars and mirrors about a month ago. Gonna see if I can find a shop open today where I can pick up some cable lube. | ||
| Reuel |
Bicycle shops have the cable stuff, too. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"changed the handlebars" Sounds very possible you didnt get the throttle assembly and switches back together properly. The cables fit in the switch housing a very specific way and although it will go together wrong and still work, it may have caused your problem. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Gearhead, I thought about that however I'm a bit skeptical since it's been working trouble free for a month and the fact that after applying the WD40 to the cable it's working again, although if it happens again I may have to open that up and take a look again. | ||
| Sking1973 |
Here's one for you all. Last nite on my ride home (about 15 miles) my Blast began making an "clanging" noise from the rear end. I notice it more at low speeds up to around 35 mph. It's almost as if something is loose and banging around. I took it to my local shop, they rode it around, verified the problem, but couldn't find the solution. Closest they could come was that it could be the bearing spacer it the rear wheel, since I just had them replaced about 300 miles ago. Oh, and it only does it when the bike has a load on it. They put it on a lift, threw it in gear and there was no noise. Any ideas?! | ||
| Swampy |
Wheel bearings! The clue is they were just replaced 300 miles ago. Probably over torqued the rear axle nut. |
