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Slowhand96
Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can we start a Shelby thread? I wish I did still have it, the ultimate sleeper, an unassuming shoebox full of whoopass. Not sure what happened to that one. I had a Shelby turbo farm behind the barn, Daytonas, Chargers and Omnis. My insurance company bought most of them after a really nasty hail storm.
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Reuel
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 07:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock ignition comes on and off at 0 degrees when static timing, so it appears that when the timing cup isn't spinning fast enough, the LED goes in time with the HEI. I've never tried to see what the LED does at speed. My project ignition goes with the HEI only.

On that whole Shelby thing: Do you have any of them left? I had a 1987 Horizon that seemed to be able to out accelerate cars I had no business challenging. Got 36 MPG, too! Wife says I can get one if I can find one for cheap, but she changes her mind a lot.
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Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok guys, thanks for all the great advice. I talked to the Harley guys and they want waaaayyy too much just to fix my plug problem, so I have a solution.

The cost for the Nallins 515cc bolt-on head isn't that far off of what the thieves at harley were asking so I'm goin to get it. That way I will have a virgin head that fits my plug nicely, plus get a little extra oomph to boot. I have found a customer at the barbershop that has been working on Harley's his whole life and offered to help me put it on.

So I'm going to order the bolt-on head for $315.00, and service manual for $50.00. This will be the true start of my education into motors and how they work. Due to the poor running condition of my bike I think I will also be ordering an ignition module. Does this sound like a good idea? If so, what would be a good one to get and can u post a link where I can get one?

I think I really messed up my bike when I re-jetted it, put on the velocity stack and changed the exhaust. I love this bike but if I put on a new head, ignition module and custom white filter (thanks EZ) and it still runs like crap I'll probably just blow it up...

Anyhow, if an ignition module would be a good thing please let me know which one I should get and where.

Also, I hear about "racing ECM's" what are they and are they neccessary?

Thanks guys!!!
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is that for a HEAD ready to run...or just the 515 CYLINDER kit...if it's only the cylinder kit...it will not take care of the plug problem...the head and cylinder are seperate parts.
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wait on the ignition module - may not be needed.
EZ
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Reuel
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, that sounds like the bolt on 515cc cylinder and piston kit. The head is separate. You should talk to them and tell them about your head troubles. They will probably fix it for a reasonable price.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can remove the head yourself (which I assume if you swap it, thats what you'll be doing), its about a $50 job to fix the threads at an engine machine/repair shop.

Avoid the 'replace everything' approach to repairs. Its a sure fire way to empty your wallet and end up with non running junk. Find the problems first. For example: If you're sure the ignition module is bad then replacing it with an upgrade its fine. But upgrading the module without fixing (or knowing) the problem can surely compound the problem. Its best to change everything in small steps. That way if you make a change and the bike no longer runs well, you'll have a good idea of where the problem is.

Remember if it ran well before you 'fixed' something, its likely that whatever you touched last is the problem. You'll often become a quick expert by learning to fix your screw ups.
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Myrtleblast
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 06:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AAAARRRGGGHHH! yes, you are right. it is $315 for just the piston and cylinder. now I'm bummed. I'll hold off on the ignition module as well then. I'll keep you posted.

Just for sh**s and giggles, what is the part number for a new head?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

16855-00Y

Revolution Performance will also sell/swap you heads.
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Reuel
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Revolution Performance may even look at your head and tell you that it's a lot cheaper to fix it. Properly done, rethreads can be better than new, since the threads are harder and less prone to cross-threading and such.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I really meant it as a trade for a performance head. I didnt think sending his head to Revolution Performance to just fix the plug threads is really cost effective. Cheaper and easier to get that done local.
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Myrtleblast
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/ekitbuellblast.shtm l

Maybe I'm missing something? take a look at this link. Doesn't this kit come with a head? If I'm correct, that bee-hive looking thing is the head, right? If it's not, isn't that at least the part that the spark plug goes into? My boss thinks that is called the "jug"? Huh? Anyhow, would this kit eliminate the need for me to helicoil, timestrap or re-thread my bike?

On a side note. If I did get my head machined, i.e. re-threaded, wouldn't that make it so that the diameter of the new hole would be too big to accept the OEM sparkplug?

..........nevermind. The picture deceived me. You get the liner that goes INSIDE the head. Guess you have to kind of know what you are doing to not be tricked by that picture.

I'm hatin life right now. With only the mini-van to share between me and the old lady I've already forked out a hundred bucks in gas. she has to make 4 extra trips to drop me off at work and pick me up. I have to get this done soon.

(Message edited by myrtleblast on May 29, 2008)
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The "beehive" part is the cylinder. It goes around the piston. The head bolts on top of it. See 6 little holes on top? 4 are for bolts, the other two for alignment studs. Helicoil your spark plug hole, and you'll be better than new. Helicoils or other thread repairs, are done by drilling out all the bad threads, tapping new threads that are too big for your plug, then putting in a threaded coil that acts as the new threads for the spark plug. Since it's a harder material than the aluminum head, it's more durable.

Click here for head!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replacing the head just to avoid the Heli-coil is a waste of $$. Replacing the head to get a better performing head, money well spent!

As Reuel said, the Helicoiled spark plug hole will be more durable than the stock head. Its not necessarily a bad thing.
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Gbaz
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or if your going to pull the head off anyway, send it in to be ported. have them do stage 1 ($275)and fix the threads : ) then u can drop some cams in and raise the rev limiter.... I would not install a heli-coil with the head on the bike. I dont know what tools you have, but i dont think a hand drill is going to do a good job.
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

guys i have a problem.
when i'm riding the blast at highway speeds (55-65) in fifth gear i notice a randomized hesitation. its feels like its missing but smooths out with some throttle.it only shows up at this speed with this gear. could it be a lean issue? i have a k&n filter and a v&h exhaust, not sure what its jetted at. previous owner had that stuff installed. the header is bluing a little. plug is new, and the primary is adjusted. i run premium gas as well.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The thing that comes readily comes to mind is a bad (or going bad)ignition module.
Could be electrical, such as a bad TPS or faulty connection.
Could be carburation. Would be helpful to know what the jetting is set at (including needle). An easy way to change things would be to shim the needle (or change the shimming). 0-4 shims and see what happens. Easier and cheaper than fooling with the jets and could let you know if its carburation.
My .02$
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS Dont forget to check the carb boot for cracks first!
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm ordering a boot, ngk iridium plug and a new wire, jetting the carb myself at 45/175 and shimming the needle. after that my guess is the ignition as well.

any other ideas?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, "dont fix what aint broke"! Avoid the just change everything until its fixed approach.
Really, I dont see a problem changing what your changing, the boot is probably old anyway and if its still good you can keep it as an emergency spare. Avoid doing it all at once though, if you make the problem worse, you wont know the cause.

I would see what the carb is jetted and shimmed at first. The jets are numbered and its easy to count the shims (if any),however, if whoever did the carb installed an aftermarket jet kit you will really mess things up by using stock jets and if they really knew what they were doing and your problem is elsewhere, you could screw up perfect jetting.
If the jetting is still stock...nevermind!

PS Be gentle with the carb. Screwing it up can be costly and time consuming. Take your time and use good/new screwdrivers.
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the carb boot and jetting first(Cheap and easy)

Then I would say the ignition module is going bad.
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well the jetting was done at a harley shop so i'm guessing it's wrong. this bike had sat for 6 years till i bought it so i'm replacing most of the rubber anyway (still has original dunlops on it). theres a nice "missing" type of sound even at idle.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"well the jetting was done at a harley shop so i'm guessing it's wrong."LOL!
I'd love to argue that but...
I also hope you're not going with Dunlops.
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well i asked a tech there what he thought it was jetted at(just a stab in the dark). i told him about the intake and exhaust and he replied that it couldnt be at 45/175 because sporties arent even that high... he guess around 38/165. and he's a certified buell tech. thats why i say its probly wrong.

and no i'm going with the pirelli mt75's
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Reuel
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Quick TPS check: Unplug the connector, set an ohmmeter on the two TPS pins, then twist the throttle slowly. The numbers should change smoothly.

If the TPS is going bad, you might be right at the point that the TPS is making the ignition module bounce between timing curves.
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sporties/Buell twins stock are jetted around 45/180.
Usually they go up to 48/200.
EZ
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so ijust had it at 55 in 5th and it didnt do it. its about 10-15 degrees warmer outside but i just started it and went that fast. so i'm confused now
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it doesn't do it anymore after replacing the boot, your good, if it does, it may be ignition.
EZ
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks

this forum is the best
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Wolffsoul
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I need some help. My horn, its not working. I tried another horn and it didn't work either. The other day I washed the bike and I hit the switch by accident and it worked, but just once. What are the chances that the harness has abreak in it? Or a switch maybe.
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