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Roadside Reference:
Total time < 1 hour. Most of which was spent making sure the bike
was supported for wheel removal.

The combination of 2x4 and a cement patio block to go under the side
stand and a el-cheap-o hydraulic jack under the right passenger peg
mount. Two people required to steady while jacking to lift rear
wheel. Loosen axle lock nut to finger tight prior to lifting.
Remove axle nut, lockwasher and washer. Slide axle to the left about
half way. Turn while pulling makes it easier. Don't pull it over on
yourself. Remove right side large spacer. One person support rim
while other person removes axle. Pull axle all way out. Remove left
short spacer. Slide caliper off rotor. Put something to keep pads
spread out. (carpenter shims work great) Allow wheel to go forward
and remove belt. Roll wheel out to the rear, you'll have to tilt to
clear lower fender.

With a long punch or similar knock out bad bearing by hitting inner
race from opposite side. Slide inner spacer out then knock out other
bearing by hitting on inner race from opposite side.

Knocking in new bearings tap ONLY the outter race and keep it as even
as possible. Best to use a socket or similar object that is just
slightly smaller than the OD of outter bearing race. You can tell it
is fully seated because the sound will change as you are tapping it
in. Flip the wheel over and INSTALL the inner spacer then tap in the
other bearing. The axle can be installed through the bearings and
inner spacer to make sure it is aligned while you are installing last
bearing. Make sure you have not damaged the grease seals during
installation. Make sure the inner race spins without a grinding or a
lumpy feeling. Re-install in the bike by reverse procedure. Ensure
the caliper locking lug engages the tab on swingarm. Pump up the
rear brake prior to going for a test ride. There ya have it.

Pictures in the Photo section. The bearing numbers are E6204, Out
of stock at both HD dealers locally. Napa auto parts had some for
$22 each. Honda shop had for $10 each Local Honda dealer has a double sealed bearing $10 each

#96150-62040-10
Honda PN: 96150-62040-10
6204 is the basic bearing number that can be had at just about any
good industrial bearing supplier. NAPA
store. Say, gimme a 6204 bearing with a grease seal on both sides. They
say no problem, got two of them in stock. $22 each. I say "OUCH
Make sure you get one with grease
seals on both sides.
I think I cold accomplish this alongside the road with a BFR (rock)
and a metal rod for driving out bearing. Socket extension or 8" piece
of rebar.

Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Archive through July 16, 2012 Gearheaderiko 30  1  07-16-12  11:21 pm Archive through March 25, 2010 Froggy 30  1  03-25-10  07:00 pm Archive through September 17, 2008 Reuel 30  1  09-17-08  04:56 pm Archive through July 25, 2008 Swampy 30  1  07-25-08  09:04 pm Archive through May 15, 2008 Berkshire 30  1  05-15-08  06:52 am Archive through July 04, 2007 Xgecko 30  1  07-04-07  03:38 pm Archive through December 11, 2006 Ezblast 30  1  12-11-06  07:10 pm Archive through March 08, 2005 Ezblast 30  1  03-08-05  10:29 pm

Author Message   Gatiredealer Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 09:19 am:        no sir this is happening engine off with me sitting on it and rolling back and forth This is most def not a normal sound as the bike did not make this severe of a noise until putting about 100 miles on the new bearings ( gotten from Napa using the information found on this site. ).   Gearheaderiko Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 08:40 pm:        It is not unusual for the belt to make a clicking noise and nothing is wrong. Common wheel bearing installations problems are: Over torquing the axle nut. Forgetting the center spacer inside the hub. Using non-sealed bearings instead of sealed bearings(these can often have very similar part numbers as the sealed type, depending on brand) . Bearings can make noise laden or unladen depending on the problem and bearing. There's no definitive answer there. If you removed the sprocket, sometimes the washers are left inside the cover to rattle around.   Gatiredealer Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 10:34 am:        Gonna tear it back down today and see what's what. If I find the gremlin I'll be sure to photo it before it's drawn and quartered.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 - 11:39 am:        Keep us posted.   Gatiredealer Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 12:53 pm:        Tore it down, found nothing unusual bearings looked fine. I left the belt off and kicked the bike back and forth while on it and NO NOISE. I am in total agreement w/ you in regards to it being normal sound. Thanks for the input BTW got my Manual today (backflip)   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 10:19 pm:        FWIW: I just went out to the garage, rolled my Blast around (to take it out), click, click, click,click, just like bearings sound. Sit on the seat=noise. Off the seat=no noise. But I know its the belt, but it does sound just like bearings clicking in a dry race! I dont lie about this stuff! Still, I could have been wrong as I didnt hear your noise. Better safe than sorry.   Ltdin94 Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 02:53 am:        Rear Wheel Bearing Bore Failure - Why? Does anyone have ideas why the Blast rear wheel bearing wallows out the hub material on the sprocket side? Seems I've run across this on three different rear wheels now. Is there a way to ensure it does not happen? I’ve used specialized Loctite products to ensure it does not happen again, but I’m almost at the stage where I want to replace that bearing at every tire change to ensure it does not get any worse. Also see this Loctite brochure for their range of retaining compounds starting on page 120. Loctite Brochure Loctite Brochure URL.docx (13.2 k)   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 11:03 am:        Well, I think some years had softer hubs. JB weld seems to do the trick if the bearing is loose in the hub. Instructions are posted on Badweb if you havent seen them. Replacing the bearing at every tire change will only add to your problem, especially since its the hub that's bad and the bearing is still good.   Brian1121 Posted on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 07:22 pm:        Front wheel bearing is a 6203 17x40x16mm Rear Wheel bearing is 6204 20x47x14mm WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT BUY FROM DRAGSPECIALTIES.COM   Ezblast Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 12:33 am:        Double sealed. EZ   Johnglover Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 04:51 pm:        Okay I know nothing about bearings. My back bearing blew out about a week ago. I'm going to buy a new set for the back in a little bit. Now, do I need to buy grease seperatly? If so what kind? Do they come pre-greased?   Buellistic Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2014 - 10:13 am:        When "i" install new bearing the seals are removed and the repacked with the best wheel bearing grease that "i" can get !!! NEVER PUT WATER PRESSURE ON THE DUST SEALS AS WATER WILL GET INTO THE BEARINGS !!!   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, August 15, 2014 - 03:56 pm:        The wheel bearings are already greased and sealed. You do not need to do anything with them before installation.

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