| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
So far in six Buell forums only 3 bikes - all 2000 - both mine where updated a while ago when opened up for cams and such - but someone said this was more common - so I'm asking around - EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, it is a known weak link with an updated part from Buell. Maybe 2000 had a bad batch. More gone bad due to racing or abuse. Doesnt seem to be a common problem according to your research and what we've seen here, but still, it is a known problem...hmmm | ||
| Reuel |
2001, 31,000+ miles, no problems. I kept hearing about it, so I finally pulled the cover, and accidentally put my B50 cams in. The gear looks worn, but looks like it should last another 30K or more before it becomes an issue. | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey guys - I did a check and tightening of everything Negative and positive that is involved and a few things not - lol - tests came up the same - In fact I'm getting .05 to .12 when the button is pressed on the main wire from the battery to the starter - doesn't this mean the wire is kaput, or am I missing something - a little help here - what should I do next - suggestions are welcome since the battery is charging and I need to formate a new plan of attack - to get this puppy fixed - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I ordered the wire - if this doesn't work, then it must be the starter - sigh - just as I'm moving and need every penny to do so - got the house - yea! - ahhh well the bike will be torn down after the move anyway - I did want to ride it to its new home though - replacing the wire will R&D it and if that doesn't work - I'll drain the carb and the oils and tidy her up for the move. If anyone has any other things I should try first - let me know! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
If the voltage is dropping to .05 then there is a dead short through the starter. Now remove the big lead from the starter and check the voltage at the big lead. What is the head light doing? You might have a crapped out battery. Change them between bikes. | ||
| Ezblast |
I have - and both batteries are good and tested and one - the newest is recharging while the other one is working fine on the other bike - will go over the front ground again, and re-install the rear ground as well, cleaning it and R&R it as needed. I'll check the solenoid as well - see if its all shiny and nice inside or oil contaminated, after doing the wires, and trying the switch once to see if the starter turns over - lol - if after the replacing the positive cable as well - I still have this, then it really is time to R&R the starter. Thank you for a further plan of action. EZ | ||
| Vnvdaemon |
I've been trolling the forums for a while, trying to glean some info about my bike, but I need some help with this one: A week ago, I changed the oil in my bike, and I noticed a loss in power shortly thereafter. Idling in my driveway or at stops, the engine would turn over, but slow down and eventually stop. I could restart it by pushing the ignition switch and rolling on the throttle lightly. The problem became progressively worse as I checked around the bike for signs and test-drove it. I can get the engine to turn-over, but it will not start. Oil levels are fine. I checked the carburetor and found a large deposit of white paste, which had also collected in the breather lines. I cleaned the lines, disassembled, cleaned, and reattached the carburetor. Spark plug has been replaced (old one was carbon fouled), battery is OK. I've felt the vacuum on the carburetor trying to start up, and it seems fine. I've also tried starting the bike in 1st gear, and it pulls forward while the engine turns over. I don't know if that's normal, as I haven't ever tried doing it before, but the bike sounds closer to firing-up when I do that. Any help would be appreciated | ||
| Imadreadhead |
Intake Boot Symptoms (Smallest to Largest) : *) Flat Power Loss - If you are experiencing loss of power while riding flat, not under load, not going up a hill or a steep grade *) Small increases in fuel efficiency - Do you normally get 65 to 70 miles per gallon, and now it seems your getting 70 to 75 *) Do you have random power loss followed by backfire, then a regain in power *) Bike will not start, will turn over, but will not start Tests *) Make sure it is not a gas tank vacuum issue, try to start your bike with the gas cap off (If no continue) *) Have you checked your fuel is on, the fuel filter &main line into your carburetor? (If yes continue) *) Are you getting consistent spark from your plug? (If yes continue) *) Place your hand over your carburetor while attempting to start the engine. You should feel strong suction on your hand, (If not continue) *) Replace intake boot | ||
| Imadreadhead |
}look at the top of the page | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to tht Thumper Forum Vndamon! I would check the carb boot. If that is cracked it could produce that kind of problem. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yaaaahoooo! Went through all the grounds, cleaned everything real good and,used new parts - bolts,nuts, etc. - She started right up! Thanks guys! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Vnvdaemon! " I've also tried starting the bike in 1st gear, and it pulls forward while the engine turns over. I don't know if that's normal" . Thats normal, especially when cold. Lets us know if you get your problem solved. | ||
| Ezblast |
Vnv - Das Boot! | ||
| Vnvdaemon |
I took the final step and got a new boot, despite all things pointing to the contrary. I rechecked everything on the above list with the new boot, and I'm still getting the same results. I'm pretty confident in saying now that it isn't the carb boot. Suggestions for any further diagnostics? Even if it doesn't run, I'm learning a lot. | ||
| Weberw |
Hi, I'm new to the buell group, having just bought one this week. Its already acting up though. Twice now, soon after being started I've been going down a hill in low gear, pulled in the clutch heard a pop and it has died and not want to start back up. Last time I let it sit for a couple minutes, and then it started, but this time it wont. Any ideas of what's doing it? | ||
| Ezblast |
Das Boot! Really - that is the most likely answer. After you replace that - you rule out a whole bunch of problems - leanness, etc. - dirty jets or ignition would be next - cleaning the jets, and needle hole, etc. would be a good start, fuel filter in tank and fuel line, make sure tank roll over valve isn't sticking as well and that air vent line is not clogged or crimped also - The symptom for the ignition going is a small backfire, bike stalls out - will not restart till a few minutes later to an hour. Idle is good. Last things that can cause this is the safety switches - disable one at a time and try - kickstand, clutch bypass, roll-over - in that order would be the recommended. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Vnvdaemon, If after checking all the safety switches, checking for spark, I would go for cleaning the carb. Weberw, Welcome to the Badweb Thumper forum. Have you checked your fuel level, full tank or on reserve? After that I would verify the engine is getting fuel through the fuel line, then check the carburetor for plugged jets. By the way, if you are both(Weberw and Vnvdaemon0 running stock Blasts, great improvement can be had for the starting, idling and running of these engines by installing 48 primary jets and removing the tamper proof plug from the idle air adjustment screw and making adjustments there as recommended. | ||
| Weberw |
Petcock is on with plenty of fuel in the tank. I'm pretty sure the engine is getting some fuel, but i will double check (any easy tests?) It is quite possible that the jets clogged, i think it had the same tank of gas for ~2.5 years. I was really hoping it wouldn't be a project so soon. Bought it Sunday, an '05 with 81 miles on it. And put 100 miles on it getting it home. Just had a thought, would putting in the wrong grade (ie regular rather then premium) do this? It was my first fill and i hadn't read up on the owners manual yet. That's what is in the tank at the moment. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Weberw! First, an 05 with 81 miles on it shouldnt have any problems. Your probably just dealing with an issue of it sitting for too long. Vnv and weberw: Are you getting spark? Are both bikes stock? Weberw: "pulled in the clutch, heard a pop and it died"-sounds like a malfunctioning safety switch. Also, if you overfilled it (any grade of gas is fine) you may have clogged the gas tank vent. That can cause problems as you described. Pull the gas cap off and see if it starts (not while checking for spark though).If you filled the gas tank to very full, then parked the bike in the sun or its really hot out, the gas will expand and can fill the vent line. Are either bikes from California? PS while there are common signs of ignition module failure, trouble signs can vary greatly. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"A week ago, I changed the oil in my bike, and I noticed a loss in power shortly thereafter" No offense, but did you drain the correct hose. Did you only put 1 1/2 qts back in (2 quarts Max)? How many quarts did you get out? Did you put the oil in the correct fill? What weight oil did you use? Since that seems to be when the problem started, check everything related to that oil change and anything you might have done at that time. Some early Blasts also had a problem with oil pump drive gears failing. What would happen is the oil never got pumped back into the frame so consequently oil would continue to be added until there was 4 or more quarts in the bike. The bike would run and be low on power and eventually slow and die due to overheating, friction and excess oil in the crankcase. | ||
| Weberw |
My bike is stock. I tried to start it with the gas cap off and it didn't make a difference. If any fuel grade is fine, any reason they say to run with premium(91 octane)? Well tomorrow I'll check the spark, recheck the starting with tank open, and If neither works, pull the carb, and start cleaning it. If I have it open I might change out the main jet at that point. | ||
| Reuel |
I've switched back and forth between 87 and 93. When I run with 87, it seems to lack a bit of power, and it's prone to knock. I think one could run with 87, but timing compensation might be necessary. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, my point was that the octane grade of the gasoline is not going to cause major starting/running problems. Use premium as recommended. | ||
| Weberw |
So I've got spark, and I have a rare combustion again, after I had the bike on for a while and opened the air box (don't know that either of those mean anything) Since combustion then gas. But perhaps not enough gas so I'm back to thinking the problem is a clogged primary jet, from old fuel that varnished. I guess either way I would have changed the jet, but this is just a tad sooner then i would have liked. | ||
| Vnvdaemon |
Strange Happenings: I was tooling around with the bike yesterday, making sure I had everything right (re-tighten clamps, check wiring, etc.). After going over everything, I started the bike and it idled just fine. I let it go for a few minutes, then cut it off. I decided I'd take it for a ride, got my helmet, and started it up again (no kinks). I put it in gear and rolled on the throttle to go up the driveway, and it died (presumably from an empty fuel tank). I put a gallon in it, and the engine turned-over but wouldn't start... after ~30s of intermittently trying the starter, the battery died. I charged it overnight, and tried to start it again today, with no success. I would suspect the kickstand sensor, but it hasn't started at all since yesterday. I also bothered to take another look at the motor oil. I replaced the oil and filter ~50 miles ago (correctly, and while still warm), and it's already got the cream color of condensation in it. Drain hoses are clamped, filter is snug, oil level is nominal. Suggestions, comments... | ||
| Reuel |
The usual. Check for spark, then check for fuel. No spark? Check everything between the ignition module and the spark plug. No fuel? Check everything to the left of the carburetor hose, then the carburetor. If both are good, start checking for other issues. Did you try going WOT while cranking? | ||
| Ezblast |
Das Boot! | ||
| Fast1075 |
What a GREAT movie!!! Oh sorry...Das Boot...not Das Boot!!  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check for spark first. My guess from what I read is that you let out the clutch and it died (usually bad kickstand safety switch). Keep an extra spark plug handy (any plug will do as long as its good) to check for spark. Also pull the timing cover off so you can see the LED on the module come on & off. You can tell when its erratic. A bad/heavily drained battery will also lead to a no start condition. It may not have enough juice to power the headlight, starter and ignition. The ignition is usually first to go. Find out where the headlight plug is and disconnect it when having starting problems. (You can also pull the fuse but you'd better have extras on hand. They arent very durable.) Cream colour of condensation in the oil: Highly unusual, especially after 50 miles. Since its not a water cooled engine, where's the water coming from? Overzealous cleaning has left something filled with water? Is there a bad head gasket or cylinder/head crack allowing the oil to become contaminated (I've never seen this on an air cooled engine so I dont know what colour it might be). Did someone mix up the pcv/trans/oil/vent lines? If the oil is like chocolate milk, I'd fully drain the whole engine including the transmission and pull the crankcase plug too (Do Not Overtighten this plug-engine case damage can occur). At least one of the safety switches wont reset unless you turn the ignition off. |
