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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » BodyParts-Seats, Fairings,Lights,Pegs,Rear Sets, Bars, Grips, Clip ons, Mods » OK, changed bars..now what? « Previous Next »

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Leashrn
Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I changed to pretty flat drag bars on my (now my daughters - whole other post - as I will never sleep again and have developed an ulcer) now when she does very low speed /tight turns, the starter button hits the tank, and she broke the idle cable adjuster threads. So now the wire cable can be seen and I guess is at risk for fraying and breaking.
One more item. The run/off switch and starter switch module's nipple that keeps it from spinning must have broke off (as I have heard they do - more than likely while doing these tight turns) and no amount of tightening has stabilized the module and it spins pretty freely.
Should I change the bars again, or is there some way around this? And the clutch is a bear - the cable now binds pretty badly. We did lube the cable and adjusted the lever.
Any thoughts?
Alisha
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Arggghhhh - ye pirates always find a way to goof up a cannon ball!
- lol - flat drag bars will do that - there is no clearance - why we suggest superbike or clubman bars -
You can tape the throttle cables to each other to protect from further harm. Wrap the bar where the controlls are going to go a few times with duct tape and they will stay put - thats what most folks do anyway. Try rerouting the clutch cable a bit. That should have you back on the hi seas shortly.
EZ
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Urbanmello
Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went through this same thing with my blast. It had Clamp-ons when I bought it they looked total cool.

I used a plastic hanger to make a proto-type handlebar and found the lowest bar I could use was 4" Rise. The stock bars are 6" rise
I ended up buying a pair of Medium 4"rise bars. ( Renthal, made in UK, $65.00, Light weight Alloy, Colors available )
As you describe it, the restriction in motion caused by a flat or no rise bar dosent work well on the Blast. The biggest problem for me was not being able to lock the front end when I left my bike. I suspect you cannot lock the steering on yours. You can move the controls around a little but they will still hit the tank.
Watch you thumbs!

b


My clutch cable dosen't bind anymore with 4" rise bars and the ride position is awsome ! !
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Leashrn
Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys!
Will try some higher rise bars. At least the bars I bought were only $14.
This board is the greatest resource and folks on it are even greater!
Oh yes, I'll give the duct tape a try - meshes great with my philosophy: anything can be fixed with the 3 items in my tool box. 1)duct tape. 2)hammer. 3) zip ties.
Kinda of along the line of my "keyboard"
AAARRRRGGGGG mateys
Alisha

(Message edited by leashrn on April 28, 2008)
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 07:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

20 bucks at Chapperall motersports - link in links section - for superbike bars that fit - in either chrome or black.
EZ
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Xgecko
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also Moose Racing ATV bars work just find not as much pull back as Superbike bars (read as more agressive)Also $14 at your local HonKwakazumaha shop....locking your tree is no issue
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Leashrn
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys,
Got another set of bars from Chapparal with a little bit higher rise and so far so good. New cable and modual in place too.
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Fast1075
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Today I installed a set of the superbike bars...I really like the feel, but the switches hit the tank with the bar angle where it should be to be comfortable...no biggie...I will get a set just a fuzz taller...beats the stockers that look like they belong on a "My Little Pony" bicycle..

The guys at Chaparrel did a great job of getting my parts out to me!! I would have to say great vendor!!! : )
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update...I ordered a set of GP bars...a little taller than the superbike bars...the switches hit the tank with them also UNLESS I have the bars jacked up at a rediculous angle.

I am determined to have a nice set of bars AND to clear the tank cover without damage AND to be able to lock the steering.

Last night I took a long hard look at what I have to work with....I have decided that there is quite a bit more steering angle than needed...almost as much as needed on a trials bike LOL!!! Certainly more than I need for street use...(and if it was a dragbike, an illegal amount!)...What I intend to do is rework the fork stop on the steering head to limit turning angle to where the superbike bars will not hit while adjusted to a comfortable angle....then I will modify the lock notch in the top of the neck so the lock will work at the new reduced angle.
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Fast1075
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The superbike bars are back on...I fabbed and welded a new steering stop on the neck..the bars when properly adjusted for best comfort do not hit the tank now..the bike has plenty of steering travel...tonite I will notch the head lock so it works...

I guess some bikes came from the factory with more or less steering travel than others...thats the only explaination I can think of where low bars fit one bike and not another....in any case, it's an easy fix if you have a MIG welder and a good die grinder ; )
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Rockstarblast1
Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the same problem with my clubmans I just deal with it tho. Only part that's anoying is if I'm trying to move my bike around in a tight place, I sometime hit the horn button on the tank and startle people lol
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Uberblast
Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2008 - 06:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have clubmans on mine too - had same problem, so I put on risers that go up 1.5" and back about 1" - has full motion now and I can lock the bars :-)
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