G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » Engine - Carburetion & Intake » Rejetting question... » Archive through March 26, 2008 « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Styx: At this point it would be helpful to know what intake you're using and if any mods to it were done (your profile doesnt list any mods).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Styxnpicks
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

im running a velocity stack and the pro series exhast, jetting it 46/175 if I remember
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The float bowl you remove, not the float - try to not touch it at all, or you'll have a world of hassle re-adjusting it.

Why are you getting moisture at the intake - the only time I get anything going out is when I shut her down I get a semi-loud huff from the carb and of course the slight smell of gas that is residual in the carb - this goes for either of my bikes - have you shimmed the needle yet? Your running the V&H right?
EZ
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Styxnpicks
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

needle is shimmed with 2 washers. no v&H, gutted pro series, just checked the jets and the 180 is missing so obviously thats in the bike

(Message edited by styxnpicks on March 23, 2008)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Too rich for the Pro-series - go back to 175.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ok. i done did it. not exactly sure what it was i did, but now my bike runs like poo!!! I'll give you the run down. First, I replaced the clutch cable. What a pain. I took off the inspection plate thing and fluid leaked all over!!! I got the new cable in and just put 15w50 mobile1 until the bottom of the big gear looking thing was covered. put the cover back on. Then, when I went to ride it, it wouldn't change the gears, had a hard time finding neutral. after a few laps around the neighborhood, all seems well?

Really, that's all I had to do, but I went ahead and re-jetted and shimmed it. First off, this was a pain as well because bolts were stripping and the top thing on the carb didn't want to come off so I yanked on it, blah blah blah... I come to find out that the parts guy gave me another 170 jet, so I just put in the 45. IS THIS A BAD THING????? Also, it has been said to re-jet quickly as you do not want the float to re-adjust itself. well, i didn't have a screwdriver small enough to remove the old 40 jet, so I went to a parts store and got one. the float bowl was off the carb for about a half hour. IS THIS A BAD THING? if so, what happens if the carb float re-adjusts itself?

next I shimmed the carb, removing the top part, pulling out the spring and boot to get at the needle. I put only 1 #6 washer on. i heard 2 will do it, but at the part store I sized the number 6 with a spark plug thingy and 1 was pretty close to .05.

i drilled out the nubby thing and tightened the idle screw all the way, i then twisted it 2.5 turns to the left.

ok. so i put it all back together and start it up. first off, it sounds weird. not quite as powerful sounding? then, i have the problems with the gears. i take it for a quick spin and the gears seem to sort themselves out. i turn around to go home and the throttle makes a weird, quick popping sound. the tiniest bit of throttle makes it cut on and off really quick. kind of like wa wa wa waaaaa waa wawa waa waaaa wa wa
ya know? then if i pull in the clutch and gas the hell out of it, it rides fine for a few seconds, then does the backfire sputter thing again. i re-adjusted the mixture screw about 10 different times, but still the same problem.

there are a few things i think may be causing this problem, you let me know which one sounds like it may be the culprit.

1. the float on the carb got out of wack while i was gone. hope this is not the prob cuz i hear it's a bear to recalibrate.

2. maybe i should add one more shim to the needle?

3. the 45 jet is not kosher with the 170 jet?

hope you guys can figure out what is making my bike do this. Oh, by the way, will it hurt the bike to ride it like that? did i mess it up? i rode on it for about a half an hour to try and fix it. hope to hear back soon!!!!

P.S. installed a velocity stack and re-routed the breather tube to the back...

(Message edited by myrtleblast on March 24, 2008)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


So after reading a few other posts I have an idea. the sputtering of the engine seems to me like a problem with the needle and/or the shimming. I forgot which way that white plastic "spider" piece went in so I put the "legs" of the piece facing down. Also, maybe the washer shim is preventing that needle from moving freely? I'll have to look tomorrow.

does anyone know which way the spider piece faces? is the wide part with all the legs facing down toward the needle? or do they face up and away from it. Dread, if you read this, look in your parts book to see if they show how it's done.

I think this may be the problem because there are no other ill affects on the bike, mainly it seems the fuel is being rapidly turned on and off...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Reuel
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think if you got the spider up side down, it would seriously not run well. If the problem is just off idle, it's most likely your slow jet. Check the links at the top of the parent page for carburetor details, images, etc.

(Message edited by reuel on March 24, 2008)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Swampy
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The legs go down.
Did you get a chance to read about the throttle slide diaphragm? They are real touchy getting them back together with out pinching the diaphragm. As for your running poorly that is the first thing I would check, as it is a real trick getting the diaphragm cover back on properly sometimes.
The 170 main jet will work just fine with the 45 primary jet.
As far as your shifting goes, there are a few things that you can do, read the instructions posted here about shifting problems, but in a nut shell:
1) Adjust primary on the loose side.
2) Adjust the clutch.
3) Make sure you have the correct and proper amount of primary fluid in it.
4) If that doesn't fix it a shifter pawl adjustment is in order.
Good luck, let us know!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Concur - could well be a tear or pinhole in the diaphragm.

EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanks guys. tonight after work I will look at the diaphragm. It seems to run fine at idle. The problem only arises when trying to give the bike throttle. after engaging the clutch I give it WOT and it runs fine for a few seconds, then the same prob. I hope I didn't tear the boot. is there a way to tell if it is torn or has a small hole in it? the naked eye might miss something I'm guessing....
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Xgecko
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

tear in boot most often will not idle
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Concur
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

then it most likely is not a tear in the boot because it idles fine. Hopefully I just put the spider in upsidedown...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No - it could idle and not run - has idle speed increased - if so it most definitely is probably the boot.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

But when you pinch the diaphragm you will get backfiring and no throttle.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well... I need big time help. Please put your collective knowledge bases together and help me figure whats wrong. I only had a couple hours after work to tinker with it but I still have the same dilema. when i ride, the carb or engine or something seems to make a fast "slapping" sound and there is no power or acceleration.

EZ, I can't tell if the idle speed has increased because I have adjusted the idle mixture screw so many times I don't even remember what a normal idle sounds like. it definitely idles different though. don't have that same low rumble. I took off the boot and looked at it. There are no obvious tears or holes in it. put it back on and tightened the clamps, not too tight, just until they were snug.

i took off the top of the carb and looked at the diaphragm. it appears to be in good shape. one side of it looks a little wrinkly though? the spider piece is in correct. i added another washer so i have two #6 washers under the head of the needle. on a side note, i did something REALLY stupid. i stripped all of the screws, but looking at the carb, the back left screw wouldn't come out so i grabbed a dremel tool. know where this is going? yeah. i dremmeled a slot into the screw. seemed like a good idea. about half way into my genius idea SPARKS started flying!! luckily they went the opposite way of the hole the carb sets in. since i am here writing this i obviously didn't blow up, but it scared the **** out of me... the slot worked and i got the screw out.

so now I'm at a loss. My question to you all is if everything else is in good working condition, could this problem be caused by the float? i read that carb work is delicate and to be gentle. since i am a moron i was not gentle. lots of banging on stripped screws and pulling the carb to get at the back screws. also as i said before, the float was exposed and hanging for about a half hour while i got a screwdriver from the store. and lastly, i read not to touch the float, but in the process of putting in the jet, i bumped the float several times. i didn't hit it hard, just kind of pushed it up.

could my problem be caused from a problem with the float? if so how do i fix it?

my next course of action will be to take out the shims and see how it runs. if the problem still persists i will go to an auto part store to look for a replacement boot. if, after i have removed the shims and changed the boot and the problem is still there, i will shoot myself.

questions,
#1 what would be a good replacement for the boot and where can i find it?
#2 could i be focusing on the wrong thing? maybe this problem is related to something else, like the crankcase breather? i took out the T in the tube, shoved a bolt in the little nub, and put a fuel filter on the hose located at the back of the bike by the oil drain thing.
#3would it help if i took took pictures? what pictures would you want to see? what about if I recorded the sound it is making?

again, thanks for all the input and assistance offered...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If its not one its the other - both easy to check - flashlight - could/should be used to inspect both - Make sure the boot is on right, then check your diaphragm - if that is ok, then replace boot.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

swampy, you said if the diaphragm is pinched the bike will backfire but there will be no throttle. at first i disregarded your post because my bike does have throttle, but only in spurts. sometimes it rides perfect!! and it is usually right after i first start it. but then after i have shifted up through the gears and then back down, the problem starts. i wouldn't call the sound it makes backfiring, but since i'm a noob it very well could be backfiring. it's just not a "bang" "pow" kind of sound. more of a "slapping" sound with the throttle. there is however black smoke out of the exhaust when the the sound is being made, then no smoke when the bike is idling or running properly. if the diaphragm is fubarred, how much are they?

should i just buy a new carb?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanks EZ, I'll inspect them both more closely and post pics. where can i get a replacement for the boot? i read somewhere in here that people were using a piece of tubing from an auto store that is supposed to be for fuel delivery and has metal fused into it so it is stronger. what is the exact name of this thing? have you heard of it? and what diameter will i need?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sounds like your diaphragm got pinched - should be no wrinkles.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

shoot... here's the thing with the diaphragm. if you are looking at the carb, there are 4 screws that hold the top of the carb on. on the back right corner is a screw that is different form the rest in that it is copper colored instead of black, and it has a copper colored shaft that it fits in. there is also a metal tab that the screw must go through. removing the top of the carb for the first time, this part would not release so i yanked on it. the top came off, but putting the piece back on is what gave me problems. this is the side of the diaphragm with wrinkles on it. it's not torn, but slightly wavy looking. the other side is smooth. it's hard to believe this little wavy-ness could be causing my problems but i will go to harley tomorrow and try to get a new one. for future reference, where can i find a good part to replace my boot on the back of the carb?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i found a cv carb off of a 98 soft tail custom for 50 bucks on ebay. will this carb fit my bike?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Krid80
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

just get oem boots. they are cheap and reliable despite what others say. most users on here have used them for thousands of trouble free miles.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Imadreadhead
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 11:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

harley boot part #

27443-00Y
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

LOL - not really but the diaphragm may fit - you have to loosen that side screw as well - I turned each of those into slot-heads - permanently on both bikes - and tighten them back down as well also - lol - das boot part number by Buell is 27443-00Y - I put the number at the top of the main carb page just now - so no more guessing.
EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on March 26, 2008)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Muckerpuck
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

put a new carb intake coupler on "boot", the rubber can dry out and make a poor connection,, keep a new one under your seat they are to cheap for that to be your bad part..

i went through the bad part problem took me 4 weeks to track down the bad ignition modual..
witch is only as a last resort really.

but your first description of it shuting on and off fast is kinda what my bike does when im close to running out of fuel. so maybe thats a clue to the float being out of whack now..
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Myrtleblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

cool. thanks dread and EZ for the part number. that's for the dreaded boot that goes on the back of the carb right? could you find me the part # for the slide and diaphragm mechanism? i believe i'm going to need one of these as well.

here's a link.http://www.harleyhelp.com/cvcarb.html
on step #3 it says "be sure to remove the throttle linkage stop plate screw". what is this? where is it? I wonder if this is the same screw that is in the back right corner of the carb that was such a pain to get out. if it is, i pretty much mauled it!!

EZ, you said you turned your screws into slots as well. did you do that with the carb removed, or was it still attached?



(Message edited by myrtleblast on March 26, 2008)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Muckerpuck
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

if you have stripped those screws , most people replace them with hex head bolts, there is very little chance of stripping them and they are easyier to get undone when need be...
#27585-88 vacuum piston 'diphram'..
#27586-88 spring seat.. (the spider piece)

(Message edited by muckerpuck on March 26, 2008)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

LOL - fuel line removed - the top screws came out easy - added just a tad of heat first - the odd screw is also held usually a bit by the bracket that it holds there, the other screw holding the other half of the bracket on the carbs side that holds your throttle gear - lol - those got slotted - tightened back up, I learned to do that in the Navy - and I was a machinist journeyman.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration