| Author | Message | ||
     Sarodude |
One of our Blasts is making ever increasing noise from somewhere in the the motor. It seems to be in sync with the power stroke of the motor - and may abate with revs. Here's the story.... A few weeks ago my other half nearly burned down the top end of this Blast. Intake leak on the hottest days running WFO uphill - only to see 70 mph (when just the previous day the bike was able to do 94 with the same rider, etc). When she pulled off there was blue smoke coming out of the breather (not routed to intake) and the exhaust and the bike stalled. It wouldn't start for a bit - but a bit of cooldown and (intake leak aside) everything was normal-ish. Fixed the leak & ordered a top end (NiCom 515 jug, piston). Noticed the (stock size) exhaust valve was NOT happy so I installed a good used one. When everything came in I put it all together with a liquid gasket for the base of the jug and a .027" Cometic head gasket. Squish landed at a disappointingly conservative .048" - .052" (the base gasket caused the .062" solder to not squish at all). Machining the head wasn't on the menu - so together it went. Nothing more unusual with the exception of collapsible pushrod tubes - which came assembled incorrectly and later caused a leak. Ran the motor through 5 heat cycles (1 minute, 2 minutes, 3 minutes, etc) then took it for the ride during which said pushrod tube leak occurred. Oh, oil level never dropped below min (because genius boy overfilled...). Rockerboxes were torn down to re-do pushrod tubes. In the process, one of the 4 large rockerbox mounting holes in the head stripped. I was able to install an insert (PermaCoil) without removing the head. Everything went back together and I went for another ride. Bike had some ping - most of which I was able to tune out on this ride. Runs NICE (within the confines of the limited revs, anyway). Didn't notice any noise till I got the bike home - maybe a total of 60 or 70 miles on top end. I'm not sure how to describe what I hear. I just know it's gotten much worse - and it sounds like it's coming from the PRIMARY. I just went to listen to it - and it no longer sounds like it hits with every bang - but just like the whole primary is massively loose. Previously I might have described the sound as someone tapping on the crank with a wrench - in sync with the power strokes. It SEEMS like it has NOTHING to do with what I was working on. My first guess is that the Flywheel Shaft Sprocket Nut is loose - but the service notice seems to indicate that this loosening of the nut is isolated to the twins. I'm gonna pull off the primary cover tonight. Got nothing better to look into unless I get some ideas from the BadFolk. <-- you heard it here first -Saro | ||
| Spiderman |
Is it like a CLACK, CLACK, CLACK, that goes away when you rev? If so your compensator nut may have came loose. You can check for this by checking the voltage commin out of your stator. It is in your manual how much should. If it is off of fluxing you found your problem.... | ||
| Sarodude |
Spidey- I can't believe it. Instead of being helpful you tell me to go flux off? Man...... -Saro sorry - I'll follow your advice | ||
| Ezblast |
Your primary tensioner shoe is probably worn beyond min - replace - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Spiderman |
you mutha fluxer  | ||
| Sarodude |
Man, this crap is killing me. I've feel like I've been turning non-stop wrenches all summer - and constantly dealing with tool, bolt, or thread shenanigans. After the obligatory back straining affair to remove the three footpeg brackets, I went to remove the clutch adjustment cover. One torx screw came out almost normally. The other two stripped heads. Hey, how much heat does it take to get Red LocTite to let go? -Saro | ||
| Fullpower |
weld a hex nut of the appropriate size to the exposed head of the stubborn fastener, allow to cool for a minute, then remove in the normal fashion. I use a mig welder, strictly for convenience. the heat of welding will kill the loctite, and the new hex head is easily gripped with a normal wrench or socket. | ||
| Swampy |
Beat on it with a hammer, or better yet, replace them when you first get the bike! Try drilling, its worked well for me. When the cover comes off then vice grips will take it out. | ||
| Sarodude |
Uh, my last post got lost.... My LocTite question wasn't WRT how I should remove a threadlocked fastener. Given the overheating I mentioned above I was wondering what kind of temps it takes to break down the LocTite bond - especially as it applied to my loose compensator sprocket nut. The specs say it's good to 300F - and needs to be heated to 500F to let go. Anyway, no matter. It could all just be coincidence. Incidentally, the primary cover got some grooves cut into the webbing. Should I be worried? I forgot to take pics. -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
Replaced shoe? | ||
| Oldog |
Saro if the steel parts reached 500f+ you would see discoloration, straw to blue in color, look at an uncoated header next to the head 1000+ f and follow it out, the chain whipping and snapping with the slack, vibes and heat all contributed. Imo locktite does not just let go at temp, like other plastics it likely gets weaker as it gets hotter YMMV | ||
| Sarodude |
EZ- The adjuster has barely any wear and the guide is pristine. The problem was the big nut like Spidey and I suspected. The escalation of the noise happened when the nut got even looser and the chain started eating at some of the webbing. I just need to find me a #32 bit to adjust the pawl. Dunno what happened to mine. Got a 31 and a 33. Should go back together tonight. I can't believe how much the NRHS 515 kit woke it up. No headwork or anything. Just the jug & piston. Still annoyed at the gigantic squish (or lack of). -Saro | ||
| Swampy |
Just clean it up, the case should be fine. The Big Kids did the same thing with disastrous results, I'm glad you caught yours in time. | ||
| Sarodude |
Swampy- What happened to your Big Kid's Blast, anyway? Here's what my Primary Cover looked like on the inside:   -Saro | ||
| Swampy |
Thats exactly what happened, but....... All the spline was gone off the crankshaft. The primary cover looked just like yours and is still in service no problem. Clean everything up, spray the crankshaft threads and crankshaft nut down with brake clean, locktite the nut and shaft threads, torque it down and your good to go. Has your crankshaft nut been off before this happened? | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
I'm getting a clack clack clack sound from the primary case on my XB12R. It goes away when I rev it, and is less prevalent when the engine is up to operating temp. I wonder if it is the dreaded loose nut thingy. Hmmmm. | ||
| Spiderman |
Glad you got it sorted out before too much damage occured! | ||
| Sarodude |
Swampy- The bike is already back together and happy. The crank nut has been off before - and I'd followed the 190-210 torque spec. This time around I went with the revised XB spec. Also got a new click style wrench. Way ahead of you on the clean up, brake clean, etc schtick. I was really worried about the splines - but they looked just dandy. I lucked out. To top it all off, since I finally got my hands on another #32 bit, I wa able to get the shift action back where it should be. I've had WEEKS of crap going wrong. Today - everything FINALLY went right. -Saro | ||
| Mabueller |
I have occasional trouble changing into first when the engine has been run for a 30+ min while at a stop. If I release the the clutch a little I can then change gears. I also have a constant "rock crushing" noise from the tranny at low speed. Are either of these issues related to needing a primary tensioner shoe adjustment or something else? I've never even heard another Blast run so I have nothing to compare the gear change issue or noise to. Thanks for everyones continuing help. | ||
| Ezblast |
Need a primary adjustment - its easy. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
I have found with both the Big Kids and Little Kids Blasts, that they shift really good when the tensioner is adjusted so it stops making noise at idle, With the adjuster backed off, engine at idle, start turning the adjuster in, just when you start to hear a whirring noise back it off just so you can't hear it any more. I am worried that with too much tension on the adjuster it cocks and binds the clutch basket causing the clutch to not fully disengage, which would cause hard shifting. I have ridden both bikes like this and they can be down shifted into first with out problem or grinding. Does everyone remember after making the first primary adjustment when you removed the spacer, and how far the adjuster had to be turned in? The spacer allowed for a very loose primary adjustment. | ||
| Mabueller |
Thanks to all. I took out the spacer and since I didn't have the correct torque wrench I used the by ear method. It seems a lot quieter now, though I seem to get a little "tingle" sound during hard acceleration at around 60 mph. I have 5000 miles on the bike (The last owner didn't follow the maintenance program it seems)and the tension bolt turned in by about half the height of the spacer. Does this sound about right? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds about right. If you have trouble getting over 80 mph (legally of course) then its probably too tight. Sears/Craftsmen sells a torque wrench that only goes down to 25 inch pounds but it can be set at 24 and it works. I double checked it with another torque wrench. The by ear method is just as good though, maybe better. | ||
| Mabueller |
I've never been over 70. The rearend seems to hop more then I am comfortable and gets blown around on the highway so I have stayed to secondary highways vs the Interstate and commute 15 miles each way on single lane roads. Would the hop be a case of the tire being out of balance? The pressure is right and they seem to be in good shape. I have Dunlops and they may or may not be the originals on a 2002 with 5000 miles. I believe the tires to have been manufactured in 2000 according to the numbering on the tires. Seems like plenty of tred left on the tires, but I am trying to decide between the strykers and the Pirelli's to replace them. I like the sound of a wider tire but not the 6-8 miles to warm them up. I am hoping that a new tire smooths out the ride. With people riding in the 90's then something isn't right yet with me or my bike. | ||
| Swampy |
I put a new Avon on the Big Kids Blast last year and didn't balance it, on the highway the rear tire hopped right off the ground at 70 MPH! Of course he didn't think anything was wrong, what a lunk! If you have 5000 miles on your bike its not the stock tire, the stock Dunlops start showing cords at around 3000 miles. You very well could have a tire out of balance. Self adhesive weights are used to balance the tire so you might see a square stain or bright spot where there "was" a stick on weight on the rim where it fell off. If that is the case you should have the wheel balanced. Bring it to me and I will do it for free LOL! It will take all of 20 minutes, that includes taking the wheel off the bike. So here is the offer everyone, on your next cross country journey order you tire ahead of time and have it shipped to me, when you get here we will put it on and balance it, then have a bonfire in the back yard and burn your old one! | ||
| Mabueller |
Thanks Swampy. I'll be over on Tuesday ... . Not really, but it is something I will look into with a local shop. Thanks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nice offer Swampy. I might swing by, eventually. The Strykers dont sound that much wider than the Pirelli's (Pirellis are 125mm) and I dont know about their ride, but you will notice a HUGE difference in ride quality going from the Dunflops to the Pirellis. Its like going from riding on the rims, to riding on carpet. | ||
| Mmelvis |
Mabueller might want to have your rear bearings looked at. | ||
| Mabueller |
Noted. Thanks for the thought Mmelvis. Since adjusting the primary the vibration is wayyyy less then before. It's like a different bike at lower rpm's compared to before. I also think that was adding, if not creating wheel hop on it's own. Next is to check the bearings and tire balance. | ||
| Toniportray |
I know it's over a year since this topic has been touched but... I may be experiencing the same problem with my Blast. It's just reached 7k miles and over the last 400 miles I've just begun to notice a noise coming from the engine area that sounds like one of those wind up gear toys. The noise seems to occur at the rate of the engine RPM's. I ride 90 miles a day 5 days a week, and this noise has only just begun in the last 3-4 days.. I can't tell if it subsides at higher RPM's because of wind noise and it's hard to hear even in Neutral in the garage because the engine noise is louder. Is the "wind up gear toy" sound the same sound that people have experienced with this problem posted here? I guess it could be described as a clack that follows the engine speed. Does anyone think I'm on track here? |
