| Author | Message | ||
     Sherlocke |
02 Blast will not start. Starter does not attempt to turn. Does nothing when the starter button is pushed. Totally dead! No click, nothing. The battery is up full. Started fine a couple of months ago, but has been parked and covered. Tried disabling the clutch switch in case it is bad, no help. Checked the starter switch with an ohmmeter, it's making ok. Don't have a wiring diagram. Are there other interlocks? (low oil shutoff, etc.) Where is the starter relay located? Thanks. | ||
| Muckerpuck |
i would think clutch switch, tip switch dont know how to check other than make sure its hooked up, or starter or connections.... you may want to get a service manual... wait for somone else to chime in also,, just passin on what i know.. | ||
| Jadow |
Safety switches are a pain! First grab a paper clip...yes I know..trust me! The #1 switch that goes out is the sidestand switch. find the connector- disconnect and bend the paper clip so you can push each end in the connector going up to the battery area. 2nd is your neutral light on? (you stated you have disconnected the clutch switch) Try starting..Let us know. | ||
| Ezblast |
Still bet its the battery! | ||
| Swampy |
First off welcome to the Badweb Sherlocke! Check your battery. It should be putting out 12.75 volts or so. Make sure all your switches are in the correct position, the kill switch has to be in the "Run" position. With the ignition switch "On" is the head light on? If it is not you need to check to see if you have power to the switch. If it is on, press the starter button, does the light get dim? If it goes dim, check voltage and check to see if the engine is free(put in gear and push) If it doesn't get dim, check to see if there is 12 volts to the starter.(Try jumping the starter solenoid) That should get you along in the diagnostic process for a while. Good luck, let us know! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Do you have a battery load tester? Check the bat while you are hitting the starter switch, I'm not sure if that will be the same as a load tester but a bat can read full with a volt meter but be dead or have like 8 or 6 volts under load. Have you checked the ground? A marginal ground or dirty positive or negative posts (terminals) can let enough juice flow for testing but not enough to power anything. | ||
| Buellistic |
LOAD TESTER: Starter button/volt meter !!! | ||
| Xgecko |
check for a ground. my starter refused to work when I screwed up the ground on the horn once and also when I let my trickle charger pigtail get squashed against the frame. | ||
| Buellistic |
Self induced mystery problems ??? | ||
| Sherlocke |
Thanks to all for the suggestions and the prompt replies. The battery is reading 12.6v, headlight on bright, neutral light on. Voltage does not drop and light doesn't dim when I push the start button. I bypassed the side stand interlock and reversed the diode to disable clutch switch. Still nothing from the starter. What have I overlooked? | ||
| Ezblast |
Check your front ground. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
Do you have voltage at the starter? Try jumping the solenoid. Is the motor froze up? | ||
| Xgecko |
yeah can you push start it? | ||
| Sherlocke |
I can start it by jumping the solenoid. It just took me awhile to locate it. The problem appears to be in the wiring, but I will have to locate a diagram to see where it runs. It seems like I should have 12v to the start switch when the key is on, but I don't. Maybe an open wire or an open interlock in the ignition circuit somewhere. I'll keep looking. Thanks again for the responses. You have all been very helpful. | ||
| Ezblast |
Check inside the switch housing - a broken soldered wire? - happens. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Toniportray |
This topic hasn't been touched in a year and a half, but I just ran into the same issue so I thought I'd post my victory as others are likely to run into this problem over time. My starter has been recently acting up such that when I depress it, it will crank for a fraction of a second, then cut out. Then it will start again for a fraction of a second, then cut off. If I hold the switch down, it'll cut in and off, indicating a burnt/charred electrical connection. I had the same issue in my car with the power window switches for all 4 windows. The solution is to take apart the ignition/starter switch assembly and clean the contact points with rubbing alcohol or other electrical contact cleaner. Unscrew the two bolts that hold the two hemispheres of the switch assembly together. Remove the anterior portion and then unscrew the lower phillips screw that holds the copper contact plate in place. Lift up the copper plate and you will see a spring in between the contact points between the electrical circuit and the switch electrode. Clean off the surfaces (shown in the picture) and put it back together. Problem solved.  | ||
| Ezblast |
 Looking forward to seeing you on the SLO ride as well! EZ | ||
| Fathermike |
well after all that time in the saddle i posted about last week, i got about a minute this week. long enough to ride it up into the bed of my truck. when it was unloaded one pop, then nothing. seems i may managed to foul the invincible denso iridium plug. ughhh!!! | ||
| Fathermike |
Yup. I put a cheapo in and the thunder roared once again. Think I might just buy a case of those so I can always keep an extra one handy. I don't get it. I'm running 170/45 jets only out 1.5 turns on the mixture screw. Maybe I should turn it all the way in? | ||
| Ezblast |
Pop means lean, go to 2 turns out - you didn't use a racing iridium - those are practically foul proof - regular will foul, but clean off and will fire - check your intake boot for tears or cracks as well. If you have superboot - re-install - lol EZ | ||
| Fathermike |
Oh EZ, you don't think I'd just ignore your advice about which plug do you? Of course I bought the racing iridium!  You just don't understand my power to mess things up!  BTW, by pop I just meant one spark. I pulled the plug and turned it over with it laying on the case and saw only 1 tiny dim spark & a tiny bit of white smoke from up inside around the electrode. When I did the same with the el cheapo, I got bright sparks every other revolution as it should. So I screwed it in and like I said...the dragon roars once again. I'm sure my usual blackening of the plug is richness from a faulty auto-enricher but I am still trying to find a way to do away with that and have it permanently closed. The wet plug today was a new symptom though. | ||
| Ezblast |
Wow it takes a world of fuel to drown one of those - I was over eight steps off on jetting on the main with that puppy, so it would foul there, but as soon as I slowed rpm wise so I was on the needle and slow jet - I was running - so I never actually fouled that plug - just drowned it - lol EZ |
