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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Diagnosing problems: » Archive through September 25, 2007 « Previous Next »

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Jimrich
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

(Just to say, this is my first motorcycle and my first month riding, just bought a 05 Blast 1638 miles, stored mostly.)

Is there any way to fix the seemingly short blast friction zone? My clutch seems to have a drag in it (hard to pull). On both the pull and the release. As soon as the friction zone starts to take I have to give it immediate gas, no matter how slow I release. It is making starting on an incline very difficult. Heck even starting flat sometimes spins the wheel a little. (more of a grabbing sound than a burn out)

I would think it would be more like a car where you could let the clutch out slowly and the bike would start moving with no application of gas.

Do I have a problem, or am I suffering from beginners blues?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome Jimrich.
Yes, beginners blues! It'll die if you dont give it gas, its not like a car. The friction zone is short and chirping the tire is common, but you'll get used to it and will have smoother starts.

As far as the drag, it may be stiff from sitting and may benefit from lubrication. There are a number of lubrication devices (from cable fitting attachments to just the straw fitting that comes with a can of WD40).
If it doesnt have stock handlebars the cable may be routed poorly causing the extra drag.
It just might be normal though for a motorcycle.
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Jimrich
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gearheaderiko,

Thanks,

I have ordered some cable lube recommended by 'All Things Motorcycle' forums Maintenance section. Dri-Slide Bike Aid, even comes with a metal tube like that from a can of WD40. Supposed to be really good, I will try that for my dragging.

The handlebars are stock, everything is. I figure it should feel like bicycle breaks, smooth. But this feels ok at first then a drag, then ok. And on the release, it is ok, then a drag, (following a stall if I don't give enough gas ) then ok.

I checked for a cable crimp, but everything is ok. Guess I will have to start some grip strength exercises if the lube doesn't work!
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Slowhand96
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik said it all!

But I'm bored and in a yappie mood... so I'll add my 2 cents.. LOL..

These things don't have a HUGE flywheel to keep things in motion when you let out the clutch so you have to add gas.

On any weekend I get to ride a variety of bikes (we even have a new aprilia just added to the fleet) and compared to a lot of bikes the blast feels like it has a narrow friction zone. The narrow friction zone with all that low end torque makes a rear tire squawk pretty common.
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tire chirp! Is that what that was!



I thought it was the clutch!

LOL!

The friction zone is quite narrow, but over time it will become natural for you.

Also, The Big Kid really abused his clutch one night to the point that after he had pushed it a mile or so to a house in the middle of no where to call me, it still had not cooled down enough to engage. I took it home, changed the fluid, readjusted everything and its been working fine for the last 15,000 miles, so I really doubt it if you can hurt it unless you are really trying.
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Jimrich
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2007 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All,
Headlight help!! I rode at night for the first time, and it seems my headlight was about 15 feet out. I have a service manual, and figured I would adjust it as recommended. My problem is I cannot center my high beam at the 35" mark. I get about 25" and the screw goes tight. (Yes 25' back, flat surface, etc)

My light is much better, my brights light up the road very well.

Should I be worried about the 35" center? Another 10” up on the standard beam would be great if I can get it. If so, does anyone know a way to gain the 10" on a tight adjustment screw??

(Message edited by jimrich on August 10, 2007)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2007 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Loosen the headlight assembly mounting screws and angle the headlight up more. You can then have as much adjustment up or down as you need!
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Jimrich
Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2007 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Erik, worked like a charm, seems there is a flat molding on the headlight enclosure that when perpendicular with the mount gives the headlight adjustment screw a good amount of range.

I was able to back off what I am guessing is half way.

I wonder if the headlight was monkeyed with or whether it was not aligned well at the factory. Never the less I have it dead-on now, and look forward to trying it tonight.

(Message edited by jimrich on August 11, 2007)
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Jimrich
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2007 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I believe my new problem is not an ignition problem.

Yesterday I rode to work. After a day of sitting in the shade, my Blast refused to start. It would turn over, like the starter was trying, but it would not start. It sounded like when my spark plug was disconnected.

If I twisted the throttle all the way and hold it she would start and run really rough, missing, and backfiring, but if I let off she would die.

After getting her home I have done the following:

1) New Spark Plug the NGK DPR9EA-9
2) New Spark Plug cable/NGK head
3) New Battery, mine tested bad at Advance Auto Parts
4) Tested Spark. I get a huge consistent spark.
5) I have emptied the gas tank, and checked the fuel filter, everything looked in order
6) Replaced fresh gas in the tank.

After replacing the tank and putting everything together she still will not start. She will try to turn over, even fire, but then die. After replacing everything I can not get it to start by opening the throttle like last night. I now have a dead battery, because of all the start attempts.

I have found a local guy who will look at it, if I can't get it back to running myself...



(Message edited by jimrich on August 16, 2007)
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2007 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Das Boot? or torn diaphragm?
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Jimrich
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, and if I try to start it in 1st gear it lurches forward with clutch all the way in.
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you have a torn boot!

As far as the lurching with the clutch pulled in I would say you also need to adjust your primary and clutch.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Oh, and if I try to start it in 1st gear it lurches forward with clutch all the way in." Clutch drag-normal. Its always going to be that way cold in 1st.
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

True, True!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jimrich: It would be beneficial to find the headlight plug and learn how to disconnect it when you are having problems.The headlight will help kill the battery and draw all the power from the ignition.
Concur with EZ on the intake boot. Could also be a clogged fuel tank vent line (leaving the gas cap off eliminates this problem).

You got this bike used. Its entirely possible that you've got a bad ignition module that drove the previous owner crazy. Or some other chronic problem. The misaligned headlight tells me the bike has been dropped or taken apart. Sounds like most of the problems are minor in nature (plugwire came off, etc) so dont give up yet. If it is indeed a very low mileage bike, once you find the gremlin, it should be trouble free.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is not easier to pull the, RE:HANDBOOK(for a 2000 BLAST) page 97 Figure 38)1.Lights(fuse headlight) and the 6.Accessory(fuse taillight) ...




LaFayette
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whichever is easier for you-your choice.
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Jimrich
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where is this intake boot at (i.e. SM section, carb, gas line)? Is is easy to replace? I am looking to take it to a garage here in town, anything I can do to solve the problem before I start paying someone for every hour would help!...

Erik: I tend to agree, with the broken clutch cable, I figured just a monkey, but now that I have taken off the gas tank I have noticed that the fuel line side of the fuel switch, that screw looks like someone used the wrong sized tool to take it off (something smaller) and has partially stripped it. I have also noticed the timer cover is a different shade of black then the rest of the painted surfaces. (Let me know if that is normal) The plug I pulled out was an NGK DPR7EA-9 which I don't think is stock. Plus it was finger loose. When I replaced it I put a small amount of locktite on the thread (Thank you I think from one of your archived posts).

(Message edited by jimrich on August 18, 2007)
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Slowhand96
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The "boot" is very easy to replace, it's between the carb and the intake "adapter" thingy, (sorry about the technical lingo) It looks like a three inch hunk of radiator hose between the carb and the head.
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Jimrich
Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2007 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

UPDATE: I broke down and took the bike to the garage. It was the boot after all. I have seen how easy it is to replace, so will be ordering another one as soon as I get the bike back.

The garage I took it was great and it is nice to have a local garage that not only works on Buell’s, but one of the guys own a Blast!

I hope to get it back by tomorrow...
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Jimrich
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2007 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Diagnosing Problems / Causes / Intake Boot

This is a summation of several posts on BadWeb (thanks to all)

The Blast has a vacuum operated carburetor. The intake boot transfers vacuum created from the stroke of the cylinder. The Blasts carburetor is basically suspended by the intake boot and the air filter compartment. It is subjected to a large amount of vibration, and as it gets older, it starts to crack, allowing the vacuum to escape robbing your carburetor of the proper air & fuel mixture necessary to run your bike well


Intake Boot Symptoms (Smallest to Largest) :

*) Flat Power Loss - If you are experiencing loss of power while riding flat, not under load, not going up a hill or a steep grade
*) Small increases in fuel efficiency - Do you normally get 65 to 70 miles per gallon, and now it seems your getting 70 to 75
*) Do you have random power loss followed by backfire, then a regain in power
*) Bike will not start, will turn over, but will not start



Tests
*) Make sure it is not a gas tank vacuum issue, try to start your bike with the gas cap off (If no continue)
*) Have you checked your fuel is on, the fuel filter &main line into your carburetor? (If yes continue)
*) Are you getting consistent spark from your plug? (If yes continue)
*) Place your hand over your carburetor while attempting to start the engine. You should feel strong suction on your hand, (If not continue)
*) Replace intake boot


Replacement at a garage will run you just under $170, 2 hours labor + part, the part is about $10.00 retail and very easy to replace. Following the Service Manual instructions for checking fuel filter and removing carburetor will get you all the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Be sure you have the boot seated in the grooves correctly, and that the clamps are in the correct grooves and tighten sufficiently.

NOTE: I noticed the smaller issues for about a month before my boot issue got to the point my bike would not start. It has also been suggested that you regularly change the intake boot at least every 2 years.



(Message edited by jimrich on August 26, 2007)
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2007 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good summation of the issue!
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2007 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
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Toniportray
Posted on Saturday, September 22, 2007 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow. Lots of Blast problems in this area. Well, I completed the common boot replacement and it had no effect. Damn. Here's the issue I'm having. The Blast idles fine; hot or cold. No sputters, no fuss, no problems. It usually runs fine below 45 mph, except for when I go down a hill right after a cold start. This is when my problem is worst. As I start to go down the hill, the engine coughs and chugs me forward and it sounds like a carb backfire. Even if I pull in the clutch and coast down the hill, the engine still sputters. Not near as bad as when the clutch is engaged and I'm riding in gear, but still bad enough. Usually by the time I get down the small but steep hill, it's stalled, even if I keep giving more throttle to keep the engine in higher rpms. However, I can go uphill just fine right after a cold start. No problems there. It's only when I start to go downhill that the Blast goes berzerk.

So that's problem one. I replaced the boot and no improvement. I have noticed however that if I drench (and I mean drench) the intake (directly on the cylinder) with NAPA starter fluid, the engine chugs and fusses just like it does when I try to go downhill right after a cold start. However, WD40 and carb cleaner seem to have no affect whatsoever here. Only the starter fluid causes and change in engine functioning. Here's a wierd thing too: I can go down the same hill after the bike is warmed up and it does fine. No sputters or fuss at all. WTF? That makes me think it's not an intake problem. Still, I think I'm going to take off the intake and put in some gasket sealer anyway to see if it helps. It's only when I really drench (and I mean just soak it to death) the intake with starter fluid that it acts up and idles to a stall.

Problem factor 2: The Blast runs really fussy above 45mph, regardless of pitch. On normal level ground, the blast just plain sucks at speeds above 45mph. It's wierd though because I can run the engine in neutral at high rpms and have no issues. It's only when I'm on the freeway when it starts to chug and lurch. It's hard to tell at those higher speeds what the engine is doing because wind noise and also because the chug and lurch occurs in shorter amounts of time because of the higher engine revolutions. So although it doesn't stall on the freeway like it does when it fusses up at lower speeds or when going downhill, there is still a noticable chug as my body lurches forward as if the engine missed a firing or something.

God, this really sucks. I've had problems with my yamaha too (which I eventually fixed), but nothing like this where I can't fully diagnose the problem. I don't like to ride the Blast because I'm afraid any backfiring it might be doing is really damaging to the engine and associated parts. Ah yes, another tid bit. Anytime I am running at high rpms and suddenly release the throttle lever to idle, I get backfires, usually only 1 or 2. It happens regardless of whether this is in neutral or while riding. I have to slowly let out gradual power to keep this from happening. It's also usually difficult to get above 65mph. I have to open the throttle up full and it slowly creeps up to about 75-80mph working through the burps and chugs. (I don't do this often since I know these burps and chugs are slowly killing my engine). I know it didn't used to do this.

So there's my dilemma. This one is tough. The boot was replaced, but didn't make any improvements. I can deal with a fussy warm up but I absolutely have to have a reliable motorcycle for freeway riding as I ride 50 miles to work each day. Right now my Yamaha 600 does beautifully, but I want my Blast back. As I stated before, I'm going to try and reseal the intake gasket with this high temperature stuff I've got, and I'll let everyone know if it has any effect. I'm confident the timing is correct because I've done it multiple times (though I haven't got my timing let yet), and I believe that if the timing was truly off then the bike would have problems all across the powerband and not just at high rpms and when going down a hill right after a cold start. And by cold start, I don't mean that it's cold outside. The weather here in north SF is actually quite warm right now.

Any input and advice is welcome and most highly appreciated.
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Jimrich
Posted on Saturday, September 22, 2007 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How’s the plug, wire and spark? It is consistent and blue?

Do you have any customs? rejetting, Tach, Lights, etc?

Have you cleaned your carb? Inspected your diaphragm?

What grade fuel are you using?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, September 22, 2007 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
I dont remember all your past posts but I assume you've 49 stated the bike?
Did you loosen the gas cap and see if the problem goes away?
Disconnect the TSP at the carb (unplug it) see what happens.
Bypass the safety kickstand safety switch.
Seems like we've gone through all this before and I wouldnt bother messing anymore with the intake (IE: sealer).
Might be a bad module.
Not much of what you describe makes much sense in describing a particular problem. Erratic behaviour is usually electrical.
I would install a clear inline fuel filter (air cooled VW type-$2). Its entirely possible dirt got into your gas tank (or put there). If it sat a long time sometimes fuel line will degrade and send little rubber particles into your carb (unlikely, but if the fuel line gets bad enough...)
And, again... static timing will not let you know of other problems. For example if you have a loose timing cup, static timing will not show that, but the timing can change at will when running without any consistent symptoms.
Most stock Blasts are reliable and dependable.
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, September 22, 2007 - 08:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would start by checking your fuel tank vent.
Then your ignition components, wires, coil, and connections,check the wires to the coil, and the connector for the ignition module real close.
Check your carb again, did you pinch your diaphragm upon reassembly? That will make it cough and not go above 45 MPH. Did you inadvertantly knock your float level off when changing the jets?
Then change your ignition module.
My bet is on the carb diaphragm being pinched.
Good luck, let us know.
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Toniportray
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, progress has been made. Significant progress. I gutted the Buell and did an extensive carb clean, scrubbing, and even some replacing parts to where they were supposed to be. For some reason the top collar of the carburetor was located inside the vacuum piston in between the jet needle and spring seat. No sure what it was doing there or how it got there in the first place... I don't think that contributed to any of my issues though.

In fact, I think the main problem with the backfiring, stalling downhill and sloppy throttle movements were due to an over-leaned mixture. I hadn't yet removed the EPA plug and gone to 2.5 turns out, and I had just changed to a K&N filter, so I think I was running too lean. That would explain the backfires and sloppy throttle issues. I also found that my float was outside of the range specified in the manual. I made that adjustment as well. The carb was quite dirty and I found what looked like brown chunky jello (visualize Kelp) at the bottom of the bowl. Not sure what it was, but I swear it was living and thriving in the gasoline.

I added a fuel filter after the petcock (just for the hell of it, and to make myself feel good), and as so far the bike runs much, much better. It still pusses out around 45-50+ mph. So although I solved the big puzzle that was pissing me off (too lean I suspect), I've still got to figure out what's going on in the higher speeds. As far as I know, I've 49 stated this bike. I removed the recirculation lines out of the airbox (previously done), and I did the air/fuel adjustment by removing that damn EPA plug. Morons.

Spark is good, carb is now sparkling clean, I regasketted the intake (apart from the new boot), and everything except the clutch cable, turn signals, and the mirrors is stock. Someday I'll put some "better" jets in if I can convince myself that it really makes a difference (not to sound ignorant).

It runs fine with the gas cap on or off. I'm gonna try some things with the TPS next weekend when I have time and I need to pick up a timing light from Harbor Freight when I go up there to do my smog of my Saturn Toad. That might make all the difference once I run a timing light test. That's next. Good news is it runs much better with no problems under 45mph. Get above that and it's doing the same ol' things. I notice much more power now that I've adjusted the air/mixture to 2.5 turns, as it just feels smoother and there is noticeably more power as I was able to get up to 85mph relatively quickly without WOT. It still bugs down though, lurching forward, although it's slight, it is noticeable. I don't hear anything, I just feel it now. I also swear I hear a popping noise inside the exhaust head, but there's no backfire noise or anything that carries out of the tailpipe. It's possible that it's just something vibrating in the front section. I intend to figure that out somehow.. I'll get some Judas Priest to get me over this ongoing pain..
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Jimrich
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Toni, can I recommend British Steel? or Turbo? That should cure all ills : )
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 01:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd recommend shimming the needle my self to relieve your self of that bog.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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