| Author | Message | ||
     05buellblas |
Well went to the harley dealer to get my stator installed today. The guy installing it suggested that I get an 883 carb and install it on the blast because it uses an enricher. Is it worth the money supposedly it does something with the gas and choke cause putting the after market pro series filter on supposedly messed with the choke somehow. I also ordered the acerbis diamond last night hope it looks good, got it from motorcycle superstore for 76.99 shipped to the door. How hard is the install for the fairing and should I paint the screen or take it to a tint shop and get like 5% put on it. Does anybody have any experience with doing an undertail kit or tag relocation. Thanks, Trace | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Great minds think alike... I'm starting my own carb conversion. I got a stock carb for a 2000+ Harley off eBay for a good price. I went to Shreveport HD yesterday and ordered the parts for a choke cable (cable, guides, enrichener valve, I can type in the list of parts I bought if you'd like) My only concern will be the Throttle Position Sensor, I think I may have to buy a tap to put some threads in the new carb, as the Harleys didn't use a TPS. choke cable parts list: (note, I ordered parts that match my '04 FXD, but most of these crossrefrence as XL 883 parts, they are pretty generic to the carbed bikes.) 27421-99A Stock CV Carb (may have been revised) 29229-88D Cable, Enrichener $12.20 27583-88 Starter Valve $6.80 27315-88A Enrichener Spring $.99 27582-88 Cable Sealing Cap $3.25 27581-88 Starter Cap $4.50 27580-88 Cable Guide $3.75 (this is a 90* elbow, a straight guide would be better, but I don't have a part number for that) I was pretty pleased, my HD dealer had most the parts on hand. Only had to order two parts (the vavle and the sealing cap/boot) Everything else should bolt directly on (A blast carb is pretty much the same as a HD carb, minus the accelerator pump)...but you will have to tap the TPS bolt holes. Keep us informed on how it works out, I'll do the same! As for the fairing, no clue, sorry | ||
| 05buellblas |
I just got back from the dealer and that told me most of my problems were being caused by my carb cause I put a buell pro series filter and V&H jet kit on it and now the auto choke don't work right. Supposedly that was causing my bike not to start and shut off while I was going down the road, the replaces the choke system and throttle position thing. I went back today due to at the end of all that I asked them to check the charging system cause my battery had been draining. They tested the stator and regulator, the stator was fried they replaced it today and the mechanic suggested to me about getting an 883 carb said his friend had one. Is it worth it to get that carb and do I need it, he said something about an enricher. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, if you reverse what you did to the carb then it should be fine (as long as you didnt drill anything)?! Sounds like crap.What you did shouldnt affect the auto 'choke' unless you messed with the tps or auto 'choke' when you installed the kit or otherwise messed up the carb. Installing an 883 carb will necessitate the use of a manual choke, disconnecting the accel pump on the 883 carb, and installing a VOES switch (to replace the TPS sensor on the Blast carb. It does not work anywhere near as well as the auto 'choke', without some work. My guess is they dont know how to fix the/a Blast carb and want you do go with something they know (a stock v-twin carb). (though, truth be told, you can bolt one right on without using a TPS/Voes. The choke takes some getting used to as its overly rich for the Blast. But its not that big of a deal. The auto 'choke' does work better-when its working properly). If what you did caused your problems, there'd be a whole bunch of us here with the same problem (if it was done right). The sad thing is you now probably have a messed up Blast carb with no one that knows how to fix it. | ||
| Billc |
OK Eric, I got the blast to start with the manual choke installed on an old sportster carb and the accelerator pump is still in place. No emmissions test yet and no plates, so have not had time to test ride. Question, why not leave the accelerator pump on and go without the voes or the TPS? Whats the down side if its running good? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
1st: Dont bother tapping the carb for the TPS. Its not worth the trouble even if you do get it adjusted correctly. You could put a VOES in its place, but the reality is it will run fine without the TPS. Billc: If you havent test road it yet, you'll find the accel pump is way more than the Blast can handle and the choke is also over rich. You can keep it on (the pump), but you'll really have to work at getting it tuned in (its non adjustable so you'll have to improvise). You may also find that "hey this runs fine, whats he talking about?". If the carb has been sitting awhile it takes some time for the pump to work as its all dried out. Wont be long before its hesitating and blowing lots of black smoke. Most (all?) of the modern style HD CV carbs use an enrichener instead of the old style choke plate. The Blast just uses an automatic one instead of cable operated. (I honestly dont know if the new 883 uses an auto enrichener, but I highly doubt it and if it did, it would be the same as the Blasts, so there wouldnt be much reason to swap carbs). Again, adding a jet kit and changing the air cleaner has no effect on the TPS and auto 'choke' unless you messed up the carb on installation. TPS and auto enrichner shouldnt have been touched. I am currently running a Big Twin (softail) carb on the street Blast. I run it without a TPS or VOES and a stock ignition module.The raceBlast is using a stock Blast carb and once I'm sure any and all bugs are worked out on the street Blast, I'll swap the carb onto the raceBlast (never trust a used carb!). (Message edited by gearheaderiko on May 12, 2007) | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Ok, so what is the practicle purpose for the TPS, doesn't it effect the timing advance or something? | ||
| Billc |
Scott, looks like you pay a little less for parts in Shreveport than we do in Phoenix. I paid 13.95 for the cable back in Dec 05 for my M2, But last week I paid: 27580-88 was 4.95 27582-88 was 4.95 Maybe I'll try a different shop for HD parts. This one is part of a large group of stores owned by The owner of a Cadilac dealer and other car dealers. BTW I have relatives in Shreveport and used to vacation there in the sixties. | ||
| Joey |
The TPS tells the ignition module where to put the timing advance curve. At about 1/2 throttle, it switches to a somewhat less aggressive advance curve. I'd venture to guess that without the TPS, you'd run into detonation issues at WOT. | ||
| Buellistic |
Timing on a BLAST is very easy to change as in ADVANCE/RETARD ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Joey |
I'll agree with that. If you have detonation issues, you can adjust it. I've been doing a lot of research into timing, so I'm quick to point out issues.  I'm wondering if a vacuum sensor can be substituted for TPS on my Project...  | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Ok, so hypotheticly, what exactly would I have to do if my TPS got "Office Spaced"? (did you get that memo?) my Carb has the vaculum port, do I need to find a VOES switch, and what do I do with it once I have one? Bill, you can prolly get an even better price of you order from Chicago HD or Zanotti HD, their online shopping gets 20% off usually. I just orcdered a rear header for a 04 FXD, $78 at the dealer, $50 at Zanotti's... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ignition switches to WOT mode if the TPS is eliminated. My information indicates there are only 2 advance curves (part throttle & WOT) but Joey's research seems to indicate that TPS is variable in nature rather than on/off like the VOES (did I get that right Joey?). VOES can theoretically be used instead of the TPS and can definitely be used instead if you're running the SE ignition module or any module that works on a twin (since most/all twins use a VOES switch). We've been running the TPS disconnected on the street and racetrack with out any related detonation issues. You may suffer mpg issues as the engine is not running optimal timing/advance curve for running conditions, but its unlikely you'll notice any real difference in running. The only problem we've noticed is that when running at the track with the TPS connected it tended to switch between advance curves at the most inopportune times. My advice is to skip the VOES & TPS and accel pump initially and see how it runs (you'll need a baseline to start from. It'll also tell you if your new carb is adjusted right or if its junk). Then if you're satisfied/disatisfied go from there. Most of this information has been gathered through trial and error and talking to others who've already done this. PS When buying a used carb be concerned as to why the original owner got rid of it and if any modifications were done to it. They did get rid of it for some reason. | ||
| Pepper_armstrong |
On an earlier, non-CV, Keihin you can adjust the amount of throw on the accel pump by changing spring position on the actuating cam, you can "tune" the length of the accel pump rod itself (removing rod length), it has a choke plate and they're cheaper too. In '81 they came out with the better designed fast idle cam which didn't jump teeth and they changed the accel pump. Also the XL Keihin was 34mm which I think would have better intake velocity for an average Blast. My experience with carbs is that most people change them for something "bigger and better", not because they're worn out or trashed. Ignorance is on your side. Obviously watch out for ones that look like they've been laying out in the yard or have had someone drilling anywhere and everywhere on them. I'm interested in the ignition and what folks are running when they move away from the stock setup. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
I got my last two enrichener parts in today. (The starter valve, and the outer boot) Problem is, now I have to wait at least a week before I try to install the new accelpump carb, goin on leave this week. I'll fill you guys in on the carb when I get it cranked up... | ||
| Ezblast |
As for the fairing - glue with 2 part type all the screws and you'll be fine. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Pepper: Using the Screaming Eagle ignition on both bikes. There are still a few around. As far as using the old Keihin, the new CV 'bolts right on' as far as jetting and running issues are concerned. Virtually no guesswork needed. Rockbiter: Interested in seeing how it all works out for you.Use the throttle cable holder from the Blast carb. The twin is probably at the wrong angle. | ||
| Billc |
This is a question for everyone who changed to a non stock carb. Without a voes or TPS did you change your timing? And to what setting. Is there another way to be sure the ignition module is doing its job correctly? I have the blast running but it is lean and running out of fuel after wide open throttle. I'll rejet this week and check the float when I take it apart to clean. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Timing is the same as stock. You may need to adjust it a little, but I doubt it. I dont think you'll even notice that the TPS or VOES is not hooked up. To find out if the module is advancing, put a timing light on it and watch the marks, If they move, its working! (there are more accurate ways, but its very unnecessary, when a module goes bad, you'll know it). Since its running lean, I assume the accel pump is disconnected (or if its connected, its not working yet-they dry out). Jetting is the same as a stock carb (with pump disconnected). Definitely check the float level. Besides the helpful tips found all over this section, you may want to install the needle from the stock Blast carb and the vacuum spring. Generally getting the carb as close to stock first is much easier than working backwards. Blast & 883 carbs are virtually the same, so if its set up the same as a stock carb (same jetting, pump disconnected, etc), that gives you a base line to work from. I've spent way to much time fooling around with carbs just to find out they werent any good to start with! PS Let me know how the manual 'choke' works out for you. I found it to run way too rich and it took a awhile to find the right setting. However I didnt feel like spending time swapping carbs and 'chokes' around to see if it was a problem with just the one 'choke'. | ||
| Buellistic |
How in the world did we ever ride a motorcycle without TPS and VOS ??? TPS: The true FORD system the brain box automaticly adjusts it ??? VOS:If you stay on CAM this is not necessary !!! In BUELLing LaFayette |
