| Author | Message | ||
     Jprovo |
You're going to have to fab up a custom intake manifold, and a way to pump gas up to the carb unless you raise your gas tank up. My two-cents: It sounds like a lot of work for little to no benefit. The stock CV carb is a great carb. - James | ||
| Joey |
If it works, I'm looking at about a 20-30% improvement on mileage, and a similar performance boost. It worked fine on my old motorhome, bringing up mileage from 8 to 11.5 mpg with a noticeable increase in power. It brought mileage up on my 87 Plymouth Horizon from 30 mpg to 36 mpg, and it didn't work quite right. Vacuum advance would not work worth a crap. This engine may be entirely too small to provide the proper pressure differential to make the carburetor work, but it will still be interesting to see what would happen. For initial tests, I was thinking of a PVC elbow connected to the boot right where the carburetor is right now. If the bike starts up and throttles up reasonably well, I'd do something better before anything heated up enough to matter. | ||
| Joey |
Here's the carburetor. You can find details about it if you google "fish carburetor." From the top:  From the bottom:  Another view:  It's a little cruddy, since it was on my motorhome's 318 for years. I don't have any idea how (if) it will work on my Blast. It has a 1 7/8" bore, which was ideal for a 360. 7 fewer cylinders and not even 1/10 the volume makes me wonder... I have all winter to see. When it was on the motorhome, it started like fuel injection, except no fast idle. (Message edited by Joey on January 09, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
Uh....Nice...... Joey, that is going to be too much carburetor for the Blast. If you put a large CFM carb on a small CFM motor it won't do anything. An engine will only pump so much air and installing a too large cfm carb will not do anything for it. The key is to match a carb CFM that will handle all that the CFM that the engine will pump. Then you need to find a carb that has alot of adjustability throughout the entire throttle range. The CV carb that is on the Blast more than meets the CFM requirements of the Blast, in fact the same size carb on the Blast is the same size carb on my 1200 Sportster. It is adjustable at idle, primary to mid range, mid range to 3/4 throttle, and full throttle. Then to top it off it is of a CV design, Constant Velocity. The carb will not open too soon or quickly causing a backfire, or bog only "opening the amount that the engine will take at a given RPM". The only thing the Blast carb needs is an accelerator pump that will shoot the right amount of fuel at the right time. I would investigate three things, an accelerator pump or one of the Power Mad velocity blades, or a longer primary tract. Hey, hows that? I'm only 1 glass into a bottle of wine... (Other than posting it on the main page first! LOL!) So anyways, what is the benefits of the Fish Carb? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"The only thing the Blast carb needs is an accelerator pump that will shoot the right amount of fuel at the right time." The key being the right amount of fuel at the right time. Just bolting on a twin CV carb will choke (flood) the carb with the amount of fuel the accel pump puts out. It really needs to be tuned in. Just in case anybody was going to get the idea that bolting on an accelerator pump CV carb was the key to instant power and response! | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: accelerator pumps are put on H-D/BUELL carburetors for two reasons: 1. for those riders who can not stay on the cam !!! 2. because you run your carburetors "TOO LEAN" !!! EPA requires a lean burn to meet their standards ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Joey |
Fish carburetor advantages: 1. It has one main adjustment, meaning a smooth air/fuel mix throughout the throttle range, with minor adjustments for idle and full throttle. 2. Variable venturi effect, with fuel entering the airstream at the most turbulent place allows for a more effective vaporization, which means the air/fuel mix is ideal at about 18:1 instead of 14.7:1. On the two vehicles this was on, I got about 20-25% better mileage and a noticeable increase in power. If I can find who is making these carburetors now (I think the company is in South Dakota) I want to try to get a side-draft version that is the right size. Meanwhile, I'm going to be bored this winter, so let the experimentation begin! | ||
| Buellistic |
18:1 is really a LEAN BURN !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
Ultra-leanness is bad in a Blast! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Rhtreo |
Only with the guidance from this group, I installed a Jardine exhaust system and enriched the fuel/air mixture. Wow! This is a new Blast! Thanks for passing on your knowledge. I did the initial test ride with the stock air filter housing removed, but decided to reassemble (minus the crankcase hose) the housing for a more complete shakedown ride. Despite the sub-freezing temperatures, (I seemed to be the only bike out?) it was great. Big smiles!! Anyway, I still have a few questions: 1) I have yet to re-jet the carb. If I wait until the Spring, will my occasional winter rides with the stock jets cause any engine damage? 2) Can I just route a tube from the crankcase breather hose fitting, down through frame to vent to the atmosphere? I've searched the previous posts and the answers seemed rather complicated. What am I missing? 3) How does the rev limiter work? For the first time ever, my Blast started cutting out at high revs. I can't tell the RPM but I hit 80 on the entrance ramp, still in 4th gear, when this started happening. Is this the rev limiter or something I may have done during my modification? Had I made these mods last fall, I probably wouldn't have bought my Sportster. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
1) No. Not unless you've done other significant mods. Of course if you suffer from knock and ping, change the jetting. 2) Yes. It does seem extremely complicated from the manual or posts, but all you're really doing is running a hose from the breather fitting on the rocker cover to the ground (as you stated). Nothing complicated about it. A breather filter at the end of it is recommended to keep dirt out, but not necessary and a small hole should be drilled in that to let moisture drain out. 3)Its nothing you did! 4th gear at 80mph is when the rev limiter kicks in. It just cuts the ignition when the rpms reach 6500. 96mph in 5th, 32mph in 1st. Dont remember 2nd or 3rd cut out points. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on January 21, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
Re jet the carb, it will help in starting and cold weather idiling and all around running. Rhtree, Man that must have been cold yesterday plus the snow, it was about 14 degrees out! Make sure you change to some synthetic oil in both the engine and trans. | ||
| Rhtreo |
GH & Swampy, Thanks for the responses. I thought it must have been the limiter because it was beautifully smooth until the top end. Re: The test ride. Yes it was cold but not 14 and no snow. It was 20 when I started the project and forecast to reach 31. (Without a heated garage, maybe you can understand why I want to postpone the re-jetting) I don't know if it made it. Fortunately, Detroit Harley-Davidson is only about 30 minutes from my house. There I ordered some of the parts necessary to install the Citycross hand guards on the Blast. I like the look and I'm hoping to get some wind chill protection. | ||
| Swampy |
Rhtreo, Check out this link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/207786.html?1158965946 I know there will be some discussion about this, but with the extreme cold weather we get, the aftermarket exhaust and the stock jets you could help to postpone disaster if your boot tears or your engine just happens to like it real rich. Get the jets, and have them on hand incase we get a warm spell like 30 degrees.... Last year I was working the Superbowl and it was great weather the week before but the night before and the day of the Superbowl it got a little too cold to be monkeying around outside.(I can visualize all the hookers that were jumping around trying to keep warm out in the parking lots...LOL) so maybe we will get a little weather reprieve like last year. | ||
| Rhtreo |
Swampy, Thanks for the link. Sounds like there's enough question about the damage an improper mixture can make to motivate me to "do the right thing." I already have the jets and the carb bowl gasket; its just a matter of moving the process up the priority list. | ||
| Kdkgrizz |
Ok everyone. I have been sitting here today reading as many posts as I can about rejetting the carb. And honestly learning alot more about the bike. So here is the big question. Do you really have to buy a $70-$100 jet kit and rejet this bike if you put on a V&H exhaust and a pro-series intake? It appears to me from what I have been reading today, it's more like I head down to my dealer and get a couple of bigger jets. Install them, and I'm done with the whole thing. Ok so tell me am I wrong on this one. My kids bike came with a V&H SS2R exhaust, a pro-series intake, and a jet kit already in it. However the off season 01 P3 I just picked up is bone stock. Now you know I cannot let my kid (daughter) have a faster bike than mine. That just wouldn't right... (JUST JOKING BEFORE I START GETTING HATE MAIL...  ...) (Message edited by kdkgrizz on January 29, 2007) | ||
| Ezblast |
No - your correct, however, you'll also want to reset the air-screw also - no biggie - for the V&H - drill out plug and turn screw 2 3/4 turns from light bottom. Jet kits for a single are a waste of money. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Woody1911a1 |
It appears to me from what I have been reading today, it's more like I head down to my dealer and get a couple of bigger jets. Install them, and I'm done with the whole thing. yup thats it like $15 including sales tax oh and then "ride it like you stole it"  | ||
| Swampy |
Just install the larger jets. The Carb kit includes a different slide spring, possibly a differnt slide and diaphragm, and/or a drill to drill out the vacuum port in the slide. The slide sometimes has a different radius. | ||
| Kdkgrizz |
Thanks guys. I was pretty sure that I didn't need to spend the cash on a complete jet kit. Funny how the manufacturers of the exhaust systems etc, push you towards buying a full blown jet kit with new a new float, and misc other parts that really are not needed. Gotta tell ya, I have learned more about the P3 on this website than anywhere else. Thanks. (Message edited by kdkgrizz on January 29, 2007) | ||
| Billc |
I need some help on this 2002 basket case I just got. Its mostly together but missing some parts. The enrichner, TPS and connector are gone. Horn,tail light/license bracket, fly screen and a few misc parts. Why would some one not have the carb parts on? In the middle of working on it? I got it started by covering the carb with my hand. Custom straight pipe is LOUD. Float bowl screws look a little stripped and pro series air cleaner was dirty and not installed. Any ideas out there? I'll check the ignition next. I'll probably have to open up the carb to check for accelerator pump conversion and jet sizes. Hope to do that by Friday. Would love to put the Mikiuni on but that and the new V&H cost more than the bike. Here's one for you. They had an auto oil pressure guage on the fly screen bracket. The clear plastic oil line turned brittle from the AZ heat and broke in five pieces as soon as I touched it. I guess it's a good think this one did not make it to the street that way. Post or PM me. This one could be a lesson for future buyers of salvage or basket cases. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A Big twin or Sportster or Buell carb will work instead. Just disconnect the accel pump. Can be had for about $45 on ebay. Blast carbs are harder to find, but I've seen them go new for $65, used $40 to over $100. I think the enricher and TPS would cost more than a used carb. Unless you're really handy with carbs, I wouldnt bother modifying it. If we cant help you here, all needed parts will come up on ebay, eventually. Flyscreens constantly. What colour? Now would certainly be the time to modify it! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS I wouldnt put to much money into 'restoring' it to original. It wont be worth it, unless its a labor of love. | ||
| Peppwaves03 |
 So as you can see I think I need a new "boot" can anyone tell me how to get a replacement? Would a radiator hose work? Thanks! | ||
| Swampy |
Peppwaves03, check local then either Stone Mtn., or Appleton. Did that happen on the ride to American HD for the Detroit Hooligans Buell test? (Message edited by swampy on April 22, 2007) | ||
| Peppwaves03 |
Yeah well I started noticing a problem with the idle a couple days ago and on the ride to American HD it started again. So I read the posts and talked with Jugallo who suggested to check it and well you can see what I found. I almost took home a City Cross and traded in the Blast, decided against it though. | ||
| Ezblast |
If your intake is stock, get a stock intake coupler/boot. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
What are the Harley part numbers for the 48 primary? & 180 main? For a CV40 carb. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry I cant help you. Nothing I have lists the HD part #'s for jets. | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: #48 low speed PN 27171-89( or DS289320) #180 high speed PN 27114-88 JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 to replace OEM PN 27637-00Y In BLASTing LaFayette (part #27165-90 is the correct # for a 48 jet. Part #27171-89 is for a #42 jet) (Message edited by gearheaderiko on September 19, 2007) |
