The Bad Weather Bikers' Buell Motorcycle Enthusiasts' Discussion Forum: THUMPer Forum: Buell Thumper Knowledge Vault: Ignition, Battery, Charging System - Electronic Trouble shooting: Ignition Modules
a Screaming Eagle Universal "Sportster/Blast" programmable ignition module, the part number was: 32942-02
Posted by Creepingmee on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 01:30 am:
Thanks EZ, Gearheaderiko, Ralph, and anyone else who helped me. The old version of the
hi-4 is the same as the screamin eagle, however the current ones are NOT the same at all. I had to cut a 2nd notch in the timing rotor to tell the mod. that I was running at the correct RPM. Otherwise it thinks I'm turning 1/2 the RPM that I am. That was causing my problem. IT also helps to jumper the auto choke to ground and hook up a VOES as the new one will not accept the TPS on the blast. However if you do those things IT works just fine after that. Thanks again everyone and if ever someone has a future question on hooking up a hi-4 to a blast let me know I'll help if I can.
The second hole is easy to figure out. Remove the timing cup, match it up to the
ignition module. line up the existing hole with the pickup you are using on the hi-4.
the 2nd pickup on the hi-4 that you have to remove to time the bike will now be right where you want to cut your 2nd hole in the timing cup. then remove the 2nd pickup from the module. (it hits the bump at the bottom of the casting and you cannot time the bike correctly with it there.) Its easy to do as its just screwed to the mod. remove the screw and the pickup, bend the transistor out of the way so it's flat. Install your modified timing cup, install the mod. with the v-notch in the middle of
the timing marks on the casting. Fire the bike, set the timing and programs to your liking. It's easy after you figure it out. It just took me 3 days to figure it all out is all. I want to get a VOES though
I would be able to use a couple more degrees of initial advance without pinging if I had one. But the bike does run very well and now when I get 10.5:1 piston and N9 cams I can set it up for it... Isn't that what it's all about? hehe
Deutsch Connector Removal:
The hardest part is pulling apart the Deutsch connector (see manual). From the wire side of the plug push the green plug out with a small screwdriver (the kind used to fix eyeglasses) or other small suitable probe (slide back the rubber seal first).Then, on the pin side of the plug, in the center of the plug, are 6 small tabs which when pushed (inward, towards the center of the plug) will release the wire/pins. It takes about 5 easy minutes to pull the plug apart, but will take an hour or more if you dont know this!!!
|Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 01:08 am: ||
One module was bad out of the box! I did get to ride it to work, once. Happy to have made it home. One lasted about 6 months. The first has lasted 4 years and I dont as yet really know if its bad, but its giving the usual telltale symptoms (looks like I'll be taking an extra ignition to the track).
The exterior hall sensor seems tight. You're talking about inside the module?
|Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 09:44 pm: ||
I did the 'Twin Tech' twin timing cup/rotor modification. Fairly simple, works, but as an FYI it would be much easier if you have an old camshaft to do the mods with. Any old Buell/HD cam will do, just so you can clamp it in a vise and hammer (lightly) on a timing cup to especially make and possibly remove the old notch.
|Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 01:26 am: ||
Since the SE ignition has been discontinued for the Blast (and getting hard to find) and there isn't any other ignition that will 'bolt right on' (replaces original exactly without modifications) I decided to install a Screamin Eagle non adjustable 'nose cone' ignition for a 1998 and up XL 883.
The wiring is the same for the Blast less 2 wires (TPS and 'choke') and being a little shorter you'll need to reroute the wiring from the frame (a little). A twin timing cup (rotor) must be used with the notch relocated or a Blast cup with a timing slot added. Static timing is still the same, but you'll need to use a 'dial back' timing light and use the TDC flywheel notch to verify timing. The 2 dots previously used will now show full advance!
Runs and idles just like stock (actually starts a little easier). You couldn't tell the difference. When the choke was stuck on it would actually 'lope' like a twin from the excess unburned fuel hanging around and the extra spark. The 7500rpm limit is very gentle. It just hits it and stays there. No missing like with the stock ignition.
A VOES can be wired in instead of the now disconnected TPS using the same wires from the module/harness. I dont notice the difference without it, but mpg may suffer.
The enrichner ('choke') could be hard wired to a switch as the manual states its only on for 2 to 5 minutes (I have no way to verify this since I no longer have a stock module to check). I'm not sure what would happen if you let it run 'hot' all the time. My guess is it would burn out. Theoretically the 'choke' should still eventually come off with engine heat, but I have my doubts as if it would ever come off completely or when. The 5 miles to work wasn't enough (I have my doubts about the enrichener anyway).
I installed a Big Twin carb with a manual choke to solve that problem.
The Blast uses a 0.5 ohm coil and the XL SE ignition uses a (XL stock spec) 3 ohm coil. It runs fine with the .5 ohm coil, but I think it may burn the ignition out sooner or later. Since the Twin Tec 3 ohm single plug coil was getting difficult to find without a 2 week wait I opted to install an XL Screamin Eagle (3ohm) dual plug coil and ground one of the plug wires (at least until I get a dual plug head!).
Special thanks to 'Creepingme' for sending me the info on the Crane 'twin' ignition he installed on his Blast and sharing his experience. His instructions indicate the use of 3 ohm coils, but he's been running the Blast coil for 2 years now without a problem. So coil usage would be at your discretion.
Special thanks also to Swampy who stayed up late and went through his Sportster wiring diagram to help me find out which way to hook up the coil. (Terminals aren't marked + or - on the XL SE coil and although it would run hooked up either way, I didn't want to leave any questions if I had a running problem.)
|Posted on Sunday, June 15, 2008 - 08:11 pm: ||
PS The next 'stock' ignition to try out would be the later (and earlier) style with the external black box. They seem to go very cheaply and in abundance on e-bay. If I get a deal I'll try it out.
|Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 11:39 am: ||
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=230263148543&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MOTO RS:1123
Looks to be the same (or like) ignition I just installed. Used, it could be had cheap for those looking to 'experiment'.
(I wouldnt pay a lot for used though. Sometimes, despite the ad listing, used means bad).