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Archive through February 26, 2007Allenbassin30 02-26-07  09:27 pm
         

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Allenbassin
Posted on Thursday, March 15, 2007 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put my blast back together and it would not shift. pulled it back apart and moved this cam behind the shifting arm back into the nuteral position put it back together for the forth time no leakes runs great .
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Fast1075
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch question...this may sound Newbie stupid, but I have nothing to compare it to...so here goes...My clutch "shudders" when I release it in gear...it has done it since I got the bike...and the engagement range seems awful wide...it will start to engage just off the bar and not fully engage till half way out. And when warm the tranny is a bit notchy...some times it quietly snicks into gear and some times it is a bit less cooperative.

Today I changed the primary lube..using Mobile 1 10-50 oil...the old lube was obviously more viscious and smelled faintly sulphurus...not discolored, very little in the way of metal particles on the drain plug..I adjusted the primary and the clutch...It "seems" to shift a bit better...but it still shudders when i take off...if it was a Kawi, I would bet it has a broken clutch fiber plate or warped steels...it doesn't slip....also a question on the primary adjustment...it does make the "whirring" noise...at issue is....should it not make a whirring noise AT ALL or is a minor noise normal???

Do I just ride it and judge it all as idiosyncracy of the engine design?? I adjust the whirring completely out (or try to???)

One thing for sure...the footpeg hanger setup is a PITA...it is rediculous for it to be that much trouble to access the clutch adjustment...I am feeling the need to woop out the TIG,my good hammer and my shot-bag for a little hot metal dance.
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For primary - with friend for safety - while warmed up already - adjust looser till you hear box of rocks then tighten till sound disappears - any other sounds are allowed. A trick for the foot pegs is a lock washer and longer coupling nut instead of the regular hardware supplied. Cold they are a bit grumpy - match rpms with a small rev then firmly shift, warm should be just click - click.
EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on April 27, 2008)
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And don't adjust the primary chain too tight, the primary chain will pull the clutch hub and c+ock(you cannot spell the entire word due to the Badweb censors!) the clutch hub causing the clutch plated to drag.

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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 12:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur.
Also, I dont know if you bought it new, but it sounds as if somebody used the wrong primary fluid. That, as you may know, can cause lousy clutch performance and destroy the friction material. The Blast usually has a very small friction zone at the clutch lever. Yours (as I read) sounds completely different. Do the full primary/clutch adjustments and if it doesnt improve I'd change the primary fluid again after a few hundred miles. It may take a few run throughs to get your clutch normal again (if it is contaminated-if it ever does come back).
Frankly, if it was contaminated I'd only use HD approved fluid till its 'normal' again (my opinion).
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Fast1075
Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I readjusted the primary as above..I guess it is normal to have a little "whirr" in it..thinking it over, some of the noise might be from harmonics and the tank shell..I did have it a fuzz tight...anyway now the engine noises are more harmonious..I took a 175 mile solo ride today, and with the new primary oil the clutch is doing better...the trans is still a bit cranky at times...but I can only compare it to a properly prepped import trans..All in all I judge it is most likely normal..It runs very well and at one point on the freeway I had it up to 80 without protest...Best of all, I spent way more for lunch than I did for fuel!!!
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Sking1973
Posted on Friday, May 02, 2008 - 08:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello All! So on my way into work this morning, my clutch cable snapped at the lever. The little disc that attaches the cable to the lever just pulled off the end of the cable. Luckily, I was only a block and a half from home so I didn't have to push too far (boy are my legs tired though). Just wondering how difficult it would be for a do-it-yourselfer to replace the clutch cable or if I should have my local shop do it ($$$). I've adjusted the primary / clutch cable and changed the primary oil, so I've had it apart before. Since I'm at work though I don't have my shop manual to see what's involved. Thanks.
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, May 02, 2008 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can adjust it, you can change it! The hardest part for me was getting that piece at the other end of the cable back in on the new cable. i had to pull the part that connects the cable off, put the cable in it, and put it back in. Adjusting the clutch on the loose side while changing the cable helps, I think. It's been a while since I did it twice. Put the cable in the clutch first, then the handle. Don't forget to put an O-ring on where the cable goes into the transmission!

If you don't have nimble fingers, you might accidentally drop that end piece into the bottom of the transmission. A magnet on a stick should get it out.
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Sking1973
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HELP!!! I can't for the life of me get this new clutch cable on! I've removed the old one (easy), but now I am unable to get the primary end of the cable attached to the clutch assembly. I put the little "doohicky" (scientific term there) on the end of the cable that attaches it to the clutch, but can't get that attached to the clutch assembly. Any tips on making this work or what I am missing? Thanks!
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya gotta pull the clutch toward the front with your finger if it's strong, then put the doohickey in there while it's hanging straight down. After you drop it in the transmission again, um, ...

Wish I had pictures from last time I messed with it! Sorry!

(Message edited by reuel on May 23, 2008)
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Sking1973
Posted on Sunday, May 25, 2008 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This could be interesting. I've dropped that thing down in the primary a dozen times already!
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