| Author |
Message |
    
Buellistic
| | Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 02:19 pm: | 
|
Peppwaves03:
Before "i" put a XB Primary Cover and Primary Chain Adjuster, this is how "i"
adjusted the primary chain ...
Just backed the primary chain adjuster screw all the way out and tightened the lock nut ...
There is a SPRING on the adjuster shoe that keeps tension on the Primary Chain ...
The primary chain will never hit the primary case as it has a plastic rub stop in the primary like the XBRR ...
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 03:00 pm: |
|
Not recommended because some may have a chain on the very loose side - my black bike is an example that comes to mind - and if I ran it that loose it would slowly eat the adjuster shoe, leavings bits to contaminate the primary.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 04:41 pm: |
|
Ezblast:
That is why "i" took all that BLAST "BUELLschitte" out !!!
THAT IS WHAT A XB PRIMARY COVER AND CHAIN ADJUSTED TAKES CARE OF IN GIVING YOU ABSOLUTE CONTROL OF PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT ...
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 09:14 pm: |
|
Concur with EZ- a loose chain adjustment is a bad idea.
"THAT IS WHAT A XB PRIMARY COVER AND CHAIN ADJUSTED TAKES CARE OF IN GIVING YOU ABSOLUTE CONTROL OF PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT ..."
Kind of like pulling out the electronic ignition and installing points instead?! |
Themagster
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2008 - 11:15 am: |
|
I recently replaced my Primary chain tensioner shoe and it was suggested (sorry, should have listened to the true wrenches) that I change the stator out since mine has so many miles now. I didn't and now the stator is not charging properly.
Question: Is the tool HD-38515-A needed to pull the unit out as a whole?
The book reads to use the Clutch Spring Compressing tool to relieve tension from the plates. If not performed properly, the diaphragm spring could fly out and cause serious injury.
It's all apart again but I just can't figure out how to remove the clutch basket.
All help is greatly appreciated! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2008 - 01:11 pm: |
|
Remove the clutch as a unit - all you need is some steel bar stock - about an 1/8th or a tad less thick around 5 1/4" long by about 1 1/2 wide, round the end edges into a constant curve and you have the HD tool to put between the gears to keep them from moving while you take the two nuts off - remember one is reverse threaded. The whole assembly will slide off once those two nuts are off - nothing to worry about, chamfer the edges of the wire protection plate for the Stator and do the shift pawl adjustment - your bike will shift with just clicks then - all the clunks will disappear.
EZ |
Themagster
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2008 - 01:37 pm: |
|
EZ, I see the nut on the engine sprocket for the stator but all I see is the clutch plates on the basket.There appears to be a retaining ring but I don't see a nut.
I get what your saying about the piece of metal going between the gears to keep them in place. Great suggestion!
Is the nut behind the adjusting screw assembly of the pressure plate? } |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2008 - 03:02 pm: |
|
As the manual states - unscrew the screw, I think there is a retaining ring involved - take it off - the nut should be apparent then - If I remember - that is the reversed nut - basically just take it appart till your down to the two nuts, take them off and the hub,chain, and clutch assembly will just slide off - then everything is before you to deal with.
EZ |
Themagster
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2008 - 03:44 pm: |
|
Thanks EZ! That is exactly what I was looking for in info. I know what to do now. It's best to ask before going any further if ya don't know. I'll let you know how it turns out for me. |
Themagster
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 05:36 am: |
|
After pulling the Stator (thanks for the directions EZ) I found the reason the Stator was only partially charging and the battery drained. One of the coils was broken. It is replaced now and I will have it all back together today. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 11:22 am: |
|
Please do the other adjustments recommended as well, including replacing the Stator, Detent plate and clip, chamfering the edges of the stator wire protection plate, checking your drum pin lengths and equalizing them, the Shift Pawl adjustment, etc - you really don't want to keep going in there - cuts into your ride time.
EZ |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, November 27, 2009 - 11:10 pm: |
|
Just lucky to be full of firsts - lol - though I'm sure I'm not! I thought my clutch cable had gone, was replacing it, and at the end did the adjustment, and then when I did a test pull at the handle the screw came out bearing a bearing cage with bearings with it - seems a new clutch and bearings are in order - but not till after Christmas - lol - my money is already dedicated elsewhere - thats just wild - the other cable after inspection is fine and reusable - sigh - I guess the toy gets to work a bit before its first long ride - still no biggie - weird how that happened - something I've done before and never had happen. Go figure? Anyone know the why?
EZ
(Message edited by ezblast on November 27, 2009) |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 12:05 am: |
|
Adjuste bearing went taking a few teeth from the clutch body as well. Rebuilt using the Energy One rebuild kit, worked perfectly, hooks up nicely and gets everything moving quickly and smoothly - a great addition/improvement over the stock set up.
you don't know how sloppy everything is untill you rebuild it. Doing the shiftpawl adjustment again has made shifting very light and effortless, even with the heavier clutch. They say - I don't even notice it - just a very smooth transition into each gear - very nice!
EZ |
