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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » BLAST SPECIFICS - procedures, and ideas on assisting procedures » Fluid Changes « Previous Next »

Tranny Fluid Change

Needed tools:
Something to hold your bike vertical. I used two jack stands and a piece of rod going through the rear axle to support my bike.


More than one T27 torx wrench/socket bit, unless you have a really strong bit/wrench like SnapOn.


3/8 drive ratchet with long extensions and universal sockets or adapter, and a swivel come in handy.


7/16 O-ring, incase your drain plug O-ring needs replacing (mine was completely severed)

The job isn't as easy as it ought to be.
There's a clutch inspection cover plate just behind the left foot peg. It has 3 Torx #27 screws holding it on. These screws are notorious for being difficult to remove. Most people end up stripping them. You're gonna want to have 3 or more different T27 torx wrenches.


Another poster recommended wrenches from ACE Hardware. Personally, I twisted and broke a couple of torx bits when I did my fluid replacement. I used a bit and a cheap ratchet and tapped on the head of the ratchet with a hammer at the same time as applying turning force to break the screws free. You definitely need to use the correct size wrench and push it firmly down into the screw head or you will strip out the screw for sure.


Before you can remove this cover plate though, you need to:
1. disconnect the battery (neg. first)


2. remove the drain plug on the bottom of the crankcase. (difficult if you have the stock muffler.) Tip: A plastic gallon milk jug cut in half on a vertical with the handle down - then use the handle half of the jug as a funnel/catch for the trans oil.



3. loosen the 3 footpeg support bracketfoot pe nuts. In order to access these, remove the seat and the battery. They are located inside the frame where the foot peg support bracket connects to the backbone/frame. I can't remember what size the nuts were. You'll be in pure expletive spurting agony if you don't use a ratchet w/ long extension and universal/swivel sockets/adapter to get these nuts. You want to loosen these nuts as far as you can without them coming off from the studs, this will loosen the foot peg support bracket enough so that you can access the clutch cover plate screws.


Remove clutch cover.

4.Replace the drain plug of course. (Make sure you clean all of the little bits of metal off the magnet)




5. Refill the trans fluid with HD Sport Trans fluid 7/8 to 1 qt.(You may want to consider switching to Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil and Redline 75/90 weight tranny oil at this point). I found that a funnel along with a short piece of hose worked well to get the fluid in through the clutch inspection cover opening. When you look through the opening you'll see the teeth of a large gear. The correct fluid level is to just barely submerge the bottom most tooth, such that the fluid reaches up to the bottom of the troughs on each side of the tooth.


6. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces between the gasket and cover plate. The factory service manual says to replace the inspection cover gasket.


7.Replace (don't forget the spring) the cover and tighten the Torx screws in a cross patern to 7-9 Ft-lbs. (I patterppersonally switched to allen head screws replacing the t-27 headed ones;0))
8. Tighten bolts of foot peg support bracket.Done.


Please Note!!!!!!
Do not use gear oil as pictured above, it has been proven to have sulphates that will hurt the wiring in the primary. Use a good synthetic 20/50 motor oil and you'll be fine.
Thank you

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Primary fluidNewblaster10-21-03  01:48 pm
Archive through July 18, 2010Truthnexile30 07-18-10  09:11 pm
Archive through February 23, 20091burntorangebuell30 02-23-09  03:52 pm
Archive through April 19, 2005Joey30 04-19-05  08:45 pm
         

Author Message
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What kind of tranny fluid did you use?
If you drained it until it stopped running out, 5 minutes or when it was hot, it takes one quart. I doubt you overfilled it unless you didnt use a quart bottle.
Overzealous washing, such as getting those frame rails real good, can get water in the vent line (it runs up the left side frame to just about where the seat latch is and it is unplugged).
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I zip tie the vent tube to the top of the inside of the frame rail.

When it is laying on the bottom of the rail there is nothing stopping the water from entering the vent tube and filling the primary.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting note. Its quite possible that the boss in the primary cover, that would be the shifter pivot on the XB, if drilled out just might be the exact level you need to refill the primary.

I'll have to check on that....
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Scoutdad
Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2011 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is a great tutorial! I went through this process today. It took 2 hours start to finish. Man - those bolts are a PITA!! BIke shifts like new though!

Thanks for posting this!!
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2011 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just don't use gear oil in your primary!
EZ
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Ohboyrico
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So is there a different Transmission Fluid/Oil I use?
Or can I use the Engine Oil? I've read somewhere (on this forum, I think) that says use same Engine Oil to fill the Transmission part?

Sorry... I'm new at this
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use 20/50 synth engine oil.
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2012 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just make sure its synthetic for the trans.
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Daninr8
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Everybody is saying to use 20W50 oil, but I live in the Rocky Mountains. Is it still safe to use 20W50, or should I use a 10W40? It can get down to below 0° here sometimes, and I do plan on riding in below 40° weather. Thanks for your help. Daniel.
P.S. The bike is coming from AZ, so should I automatically do an oil change before I ride her?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use synthetic oil. Period.Synthetic 20w50 will flow well at low temps. If you'll be riding occasionally at the low temps, stay with 20w50. 15w40 or 15w50 is a better choice, if you feel you must. Do not run 10w40 at higher temps.
Run synthetic. Period. The Blast will gulp 10w40, unless it really won't see anything above 40F.
If your bike is always kept outside and only see short runs, never above 40F, the 10W40 would be okay, synthetic.
I love in Montana and I've never "Winter stored" a motorcycle in my life. You'll regret using thin oil the minute the temperature goes up and the benefit of using thin oil is low. Buy a battery tender brand battery tender and cover your bike with a heavy blanket after a ride to keep the engine heat in (unless your garage is heated).

PS I would change the oil anyway (when hot) unless you know what oil the previous owner put in the bike and when.
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The "BEST" oil to run in both your engine and transmission is 20W-50 SYN3 which can be bought at any H-D STEALERSHIP !!!
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