| Author |
Message |
    
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, April 13, 2009 - 01:09 pm: | 
|
For sure! Break out the Oak tree!
EZ |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Monday, April 13, 2009 - 07:31 pm: |
|
Gonna hold off on the Oak Tree method for now.
Found #4 washers at Ace - smallest size they had and fit like a glove on the needle. Got the carb connected back up to das boot and then the airbox/tank/seat only to open the garage door to a hellacious storm. Checked the TV - tornado warning. So much for checking out this evening whether the stumble at low RPMs is fixed. It is supposed to be in the low 50s tomorrow so hopefully the rain will end tonight.
While cleaning the wheels, I noticed a little crack in the tread of the front tire. Plan to outfit her with Avons just as soon as she is running AND the shop is open at the same time. I think it is the stock dunlop on the front - even with 3800 miles, 8 years of weather and time are not good to rubber. The rear is supposed to be new, but with it being a dunlop too, thought I would spring for a matching set.
Anyway, will report back after the test ride tomorrow on whether the bike is running better and/or the gas is no longer running into the airbox. Thanks for all the advice! 
(Message edited by HLD01blast on April 13, 2009) |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Monday, April 13, 2009 - 08:18 pm: |
|
Since the topic of this thread is Primary Chain Adjustment, wanted to post a pic of mine after I adjusted it. Since the torque wrench method did not seem to work for me - the bolt was way far out after - thought I would try the finger tight then backed out 1 - 1 1/2 turns. It measures out to be about .45" between the bottom of the lock nut and the bottom (head) of the bolt. Does this look right to you pros? To me, it seems like it might be a little loose. I just want to make certain not to have it too tight as it seems to do more damage that way. Thanks!
|
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 02:17 am: |
|
Looks 'normal' as long as you cant fit that old spacer in there. I'm assuming (without checking) that you followed one of the methods listed on Badweb for the finger tight adjustment? Agreed, too tight will do more damage.
I think its probably a little loose, but get your bike running first, then go back later and try to adjust it. A little time and some familiarity with the bike will do wonders! |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 07:00 am: |
|
Thanks Gearhead. I am going to ride it for a few days to get a better feel for the bike before making more adjustments.
It was in such poor shape we I rode it home (tear in das boot, original oil and transmission fluid, etc.) that I did not have a chance to figure out what "normal" is for the bike before doing the service. I think she is running well enough now to get a good baseline. |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 05:53 pm: |
|
Ok, ride report - the good news, the loss of power in lower gears has been eliminated by the change in needle shims - yea!
I noticed when stopped at a light, the bike is itching to go - does not like being stopped/held back - guess that is a good thing that she wants to go.
Anyway, the bad news - on start up, I had a hell of a backfire from the new V&H exhaust. After that, nothing until I returned home. The bike died as I was about to pull in the driveway (the only problem she had the entire ride) and when I fired her back up, another couple of loud pops out the exhaust. Strangely, this did not happen Sunday when the power loss was occurring. Guess I botched something else when fixing the carb problem. 
I will do a search of the forum for backfiring now, but thought I would mention it here too in case anyone has insight to share.
Thanks again to everyone for helping a chick noob with her Blast.
(Message edited by HLD01blast on April 14, 2009) |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 12:57 am: |
|
My gut feeling is that you have an ignition module going bad, without rereading all your posts. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 01:05 am: |
|
FWIW: I like the torque wrench method of adjusting, 24 inch lbs and 8 flats out, has always worked for me.
Just to get an insight to the "by Ear" method (and help others). With the bike fully warmed up and running, I backed off the lock/jam nut and slowly loosened the adjuster bolt. Within a half turn of the bolt you can very clearly hear the clacking of the adjuster shoe being too loose. I have a loud exhaust and the sound is still unmistakable.
Dont forget to mark your stating point on the nut and bolt. I used chalk, but white paint or a felt tip pen and even a sharp knife works too.
That may help in your future endeavors to get the adjustment correct. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 01:08 am: |
|
"itching to go" is bad. A clutch adjustment is in order (which includes removing the small cover you pulled off to fill the transmission, unless you adjusted that correctly then). |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 09:49 am: |
|
Did not do a clutch adjustment when I did the fluid change, so looks like I get to loosen that dang footpeg bracket again. Guess I will hit that this evening along with torquing the header nuts.
Thanks again GH. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 11:58 am: |
|
After thats adjusted, then the clutch cable gets adjusted. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 08:54 pm: |
|
I would be placing money on the ignition module also. |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 09:09 pm: |
|
Guess after I get the clutch adjusted, the module will be my next step.
Thanks for the help. |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
|
Help please. So I am a total dumbazz - trying to do the clutch adjustment.
I moved the peg bracket and the clutch inspection cover per the service manual. Then, per the manual, I moved up to the boot on the clutch cable and raised it to expose the jam nut and adjuster. Next, I grabbed the appropriate sized wrenches to hold the adjuster while loosening the jam nut as the manual advises. PROBLEM - regardless of the direction I tried to turn the jam nut - I know lefty loosey and all but the perspective changes if facing up or down. Either way - no turn. I feel like I am putting a LOT of pressure on the clutch cable - not a good thing I assume. I tried some PB Blaster on the nut and still nothing. So which way should I be turning the effing thing - I thought toward the rear of the bike, but now I am totally confused. Is there a trick to loosening that nut? I am afraid of either damaging the cable or rounding the edges off the hex nuts.
Thanks again.
(Message edited by HLD01blast on April 15, 2009) |
Swampy
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 09:02 pm: |
|
Looking at the cable from right side up, the long adjustment sleeve is held with a wrench and the lock nut at the top(the bigger of the three) is turned from the front to the rear, or if you are looking down on the wrench from above, counter-clockwise.
Good Luck on you..... |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 09:14 pm: |
|
Thanks Swampy - that is how I thought it would turn. Hopefully I will not damage the clutch cable in getting the nut backed off. |
Zerogage
| | Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2015 - 04:04 pm: |
|
I was having neutral light flickering and clunky shifting issues so I just replaced my detent plate, adjusted the shift drum pins and tightened the shift drum bolt this afternoon.
It all went pretty smoothly but at a certain point during dis-assembly this part landed on the ground and I didn't see where it came from. It happened right after loosening the clutch cable and removing the cable end from the clutch lever. I saw it fall from higher than the primary case. Put everything back together and it runs great.
Can anyone ID this part? Markings say "ALLPRO" and it measures 3/4" in length with the tail folded down like in the pic.
|
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2015 - 07:41 pm: |
|
Sorry, I don't recognize it. |
|
