Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Redline Oil Buellistic 8  1  06-07-07  12:54 pm Oil foaming? Need2ride 8  1  10-11-15  03:03 am Rock and Oil Filter Ninjabob 21  1  11-17-04  01:54 am Engine treatment Twisty_mcwrister 9  1  07-12-08  10:58 am Proper way to check oil? Swampy 34  1  09-01-08  04:16 pm Blast oil level after sitting 2 weeks Jprovo 3  1  02-06-06  11:01 pm Iced coffee in engine? Calebw 14  1  08-11-13  03:41 pm The ultimate oil question! Need2ride 37  2  10-11-15  02:55 am Blast oil drain plug?? Vividlucidity 3  1  08-30-06  11:16 am Is this the right oil to use in my blast? Buellistic 13  1  09-30-07  09:32 pm NEW 4 WEEK OLD BLAST OIL USE Cringblast 12  1  10-31-06  08:21 pm Archive through October 24, 2008 Ezblast 30  1  10-24-08  02:29 am Archive through August 06, 2008 Gearheaderiko 30  1  08-06-08  01:10 am Archive through June 03, 2008 Blasst 30  1  06-03-08  06:47 pm Archive through April 23, 2008 Reuel 30  1  04-23-08  09:49 am Archive through April 05, 2007 Ezblast 30  1  04-05-07  06:25 pm Archive through October 24, 2005 Ezblast 30  1  10-24-05  11:04 pm Archive through September 20, 2004 Ezblast 30  1  09-20-04  10:08 am

Subject: Oil Filter Cross-Reference

For anyone who has had trouble finding non-factory oil filters for
your Buell Blast, here is a list of part numbers that will work as
direct replacements for the factory filter.

Manufacturer/Part Number

H-D / 63806-00Y
AC/DELCO / PF1233
MOTORCRAFT / FL836
PUROLATOR / L14476
STP / S4967
BOSCH / 3311
MOBIL / M1-103
FRAM / PH4967
K&N / HP-1003
BECK/ARNLEY / 041-8066
WIX / 51394
Napa / 1394
FLEETGUARD / HF6158

Alternatively, if you can't remember to bring this list to the auto
parts store with you, lookup a filter for the 1988-2000 Toyota
Celica/Corolla 1.5-1.8L engine.

Here is a massive study on oil filters. Not too surprisingly,
almost all oil filters are manufactured by less than a handful of
companies. As such, there are few differences between brands. I
can recommend the Mobil 1 or Purolator PureOne filters. A few
dollars more, but much better filters.

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

For all of the crap that flows right through your filter, but can
still damage your engine:

http://www.filtermag.com


NHRS sells one specifically for the Blast/XB filter as well.

Note: Be wary of using any 75/90 or other gear oil - they may contain sulfates that damage wires and any yellow metals found in the primary where it was used. It is now recommended not to use it!

Note II: 1/8th qt. Risoline plus 1/8th qt. Marvel Mystery Oil - 25% of your oil capacity - will loosen and bring back a sticking lifter - freeing it from gunk causing it to stick. If lifter is faulty - it will continue to make noise at start up before quieting back down - replace lifters.

Author Message   Evilbetty Posted on Friday, October 24, 2008 - 09:13 am:        Where do you find the MOBIL M1-103 filter? Or has the part number changed?   Reuel Posted on Friday, October 24, 2008 - 07:23 pm:        The manual does specify that if you are going to ride under 50 degrees that 10W40 is the preferred weight. Still Mobil 1 synthetic is the choice!   Ezblast Posted on Saturday, October 25, 2008 - 02:39 am:        Most autopart stores carry it, the big ones do - that or Bosch is good also. EZ   Imadreadhead Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 04:37 pm:        (Message edited by imadreadhead on November 10, 2008)   Reuel Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 05:06 pm:        Yeah. Just find the brand and cross-refer it.   Imadreadhead Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 05:13 pm:        (Message edited by imadreadhead on November 10, 2008)   Indybuell Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 09:18 pm:        So, with the larger filter, how much oil does it hold?   Imadreadhead Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 09:37 pm:        i would say instead of 1.8qts maybe almost a whole 2 quarts   Ezblast Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 12:38 am:        That would save a lot of hassle - the cross over to the Mobil one will be what I'm looking for - if I did'nt like it I have a couple regular on the shelf. EZ   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 02:06 am:        How about a picture on the bike? Maybe a couple less redundant filter pictures please? And is there a way you know this filter is comparable with the 4967 or Blast compatible? I know, I know, a lot of questions, but if you've ever taken the time to double check the Badweb listing of oil filters you'll see that some are no longer listed as being for a Blast or do not cross reference with the other oil filters listed. Would really suck to find out a filter you're using has a check valve that isnt compatible with the oil pressure output of the Blast or who knows what? I'm just saying that I dont know enough about oil filters to know why two seemingly identical in appearance oil filters do not work on the same engine and why there are sooo many different numbered filters on the shelf when sooo many look the same?   Indybuell Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 12:49 pm:        Is there a BadWeb Thumper Forum Blessed method of changing the oil? I have been searching all morning, and not really finding anything. Could someone more knowledgeable than me get something up?   Swampy Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 01:51 pm:        It's in your owners manual . . . . . . It is really simple, operate the bike to operating temperature. Locate the two black hoses attached to the rear inside left foot peg bracket. Remove the screw holding the clamp attaching the hoses to the bracket. Slide each spring clamp with a pair of pliers up the hose to relieve pressure on the hose plug. Remove each hose plug. One will contain engine oil. The other line will contain condensation and oil mixture from crankcase blowby and will only amount to less than a half ounce of a milky mixture of oil and water. Remove engine oil filter by grasping the oil filter and turning counterclockwise(looking from the bottom) and discard. Clean the area around oil filter mount. Fill new oil filter with oil of your choice, lubricate the oil filter rubber O-ring with oil and tighten the oil filter one full turn after O-ring contacts the oil filter mount. Assure yourself that the oil filter is tight. Re-install drain plugs into drain hoses and re-install spring clamps securing hose plugs into hoses and re-attach both hoses to their proper location using hose clamp and bolt. Refill oil tank to fill line. If you are using two, one quart containers and have used the oil from one of the quarts to fill your oil filter use what remains of the two quarts. Start bike following all safety precautions, allow to idle until bike is warmed for riding. Shut bike off and inspect the oil filter area for leaks. Check oil to make sure oil is somewhere "On" the stick. It does not have to be full. Go ride bike safely in a spirited manner. At end of ride check oil level and refill as needed. Henceforth you will check your oil level at the end of each ride not the beginning.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 09:13 pm:        Thank you Swampy! Glad to see you're 'back'. FWIW:"Check oil to make sure oil is somewhere "On" the stick. It does not have to be full." Very important! Filling with 2 quarts of oil at a 'regular' oil change will usually put it at a little over full (1 3/4 is closer). Putting more in at this point "just because it doesnt read at the full line" will certainly cause it to be overfilled.   Indybuell Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 03:17 pm:        Thank you very much for the post.   Tortoise Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 10:34 am:        The service manual says to change the oil every 5,000 miles. However, I changed the oil last after 4,000 miles and it was the blackest oil I have ever seen. I change the oil on my truck every 5,000 and it is only brown in color so it must be different on a motorcycle. How often should I change the oil on my blast realistically? I use synthetic.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 12:08 pm:        I think the norm here is about every 2500 miles, at least thats what I do for engine and tranny and I run synthetic. The repair manual does say every 5000, so you could just do the oil and leave the filter for every 5000, but you'd still be leaving a quart of used in there. It also depends on usage. All highway with adequate warm-up (not idling, but actual riding), you could go longer. All city, lots of short trips, redline frequently, all point to shorter change intervals. Even at $10 a quart every 2500 miles, imho, is cheap insurance and since transmission repair involves complete engine teardown, 2500 there is a good idea too. Also if you live somewhere with great temp extremes, you might be best to change before Winter (to a 'thinner' oil) and then before Summer to something that offers more protection. But thats my opinion.   Reuel Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 10:39 pm:        The manual says 10W40 if you will be riding below 50 degrees.   Robi Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 12:41 pm:        Currently my morning rides are in the 40s, and back home in the 60's. Any feedback on what Reuel notes about 10W40 for lower temps?   Swampy Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 07:53 pm:        Are you using a synthetic oil? If not you should be. There are 15W-40, and 15W-50 oils I would feel more comfortable with. The problem becomes the starting process you use when using a 15W, or a 20W oil in cold weather. Starting must be done carefully. If you rev on it when it is cold, or just starting up you stand the chance of oil not flowing to the oil pump and the needed parts until the oil gets warmer and flows better. So you want to just let the thing idle until the oil starts to warm up. Also with any oil you use the protective layer on the cylinder walls when the engine is cold is not there until the oil starts flowing and the oil starts squirting up under the piston from the oil squiter thingy in the crankcase. When the engine is cold the piston to cylinder clearances are not right and can cause piston scuffing and wear. So the long and short of it is, there are people using straight 50 and 60 weight oils in their engines even when the temps are cold, they just are patient about how they start their engines and drive off. Air cooled airplane engines use 40 to 60 weight oil, I have seen people use block heaters or they direct hot air from a kerosene salamander heater towards the crankcase to pre-warm the oil. The old Detroit Diesel engines used straight 30 weight oil in the winter and 40 in the summer, but you couldn't get one of those things to start when it was cold out unless you used a block heater or started a fire under the oil pan. We need to use the thickest oil we can get away with to protect the engine. I alway let my engines warm up before riding off, at least until I can feel warmth on the cylinder.   Britchri10 Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 07:58 pm:        +1 on Swampy's "let the engine warm up before departing" comment. OK. I'm in Florida( so it's never REALLY cold) I use HD synthetic in my engine & transmission but I always let the Blast idle for a few minutes before I apply the throttle & depart. Once warmed up I have never experienced any problems with the way the bike runs. Chris C   Gearheaderiko Posted on Sunday, October 24, 2010 - 01:10 am:        If your bike is garage kept it doesnt matter how cold it is outside, just how cold it got in the garage! " We need to use the thickest oil we can get away with to protect the engine. Concur! Use 10w40 in the warmer temps and you'll go through a lot of oil.   Rydog60236 Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 02:32 pm:        My oil level is about 50% above the high mark. Is there an issue with having it overfilled?   Indybuell Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 02:41 pm:        Is it while checking it hot? Overfill could get it up past the rings. But just past high should be ok.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 04:24 pm:        Concur. Just a little is okay (dont know what 50% is). Do you know how much you overfilled it (IE did you just do a 3 qt oil change)?   Rydog60236 Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 04:55 pm:        It was filled up when I had some engine work done. I am checking it while hot and level. By 50% I mean the level is higher than the hi mark by about half the distance between the high and low marks.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 05:04 pm:        Probably okay.   Ezblast Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2011 - 05:51 pm:        http://www.pennzoil.com/documents/Racing.pdf Pretty sure I'm switching to Penzoil Racing 25/50 (this or Amsoil) - its numbers beat Mobil all to hell, especially since it seams they have dropped Mobil 15/50 from their list. After some serious research on availability - guess I'm getting Amsoil - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 12, 2011)   Blastronomer Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 09:40 pm:        What oil filter is everyone using these days?   Buellistic Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 10:12 pm:        Super Tech ST4967 which is BLACK and sold at Wal-Mart ... Iam Noone'   Blastronomer Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 10:41 pm:        Why that one? Its blackness? Or its availability at walmart? I'm guessing it's the blackness 'cause white or orange would look weird.   Ezblast Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 11:45 pm:        No - just availability. EZ   Rusty7983 Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 08:35 pm:        happy to have found my oil leak!!. it has taken a 6 pack of mobil one and eight months time, the starter was loose!! rtv, problem solved.

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